MrBill

#31

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QUOTE(playr158 @ Mar 21, 2007 - 9:30 PM) [snapback]538561[/snapback]

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when you rebuild a motor you should rebuild...

but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel..

advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site

but not going past 3k rpm and not boosting as much as possible....basic ways to just take it super easy on the engine i would image

funny that I've never read that before.
People say this say that, but we call them desktop engineers.
Ive known plenty of people that "break it in like you're going to drive it" with excellent results. Can you go forward with your explanation on WHY you think this way?
Is this motor completely stock? There is no cam break-in, a solid shot of boost will no-doubt seat those rings really well.

So tell me, where is your information coming from? Because i think you're a qualified desktop engineer sir, congratulations.
So please show me the documented evidence that mostly stock motors need any sort of break-in procedures.

DeW_H0e_GT

#32

wow great job!!!!....luv yoru work on the welding.....u do any other work besides celicas?....

snapshotgt

#33

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QUOTE(DeW_H0e_GT @ Mar 22, 2007 - 12:04 AM) [snapback]538617[/snapback]

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wow great job!!!!....luv yoru work on the welding.....u do any other work besides celicas?....

>

QUOTE(angrymike @ Mar 19, 2007 - 10:59 PM) [snapback]537888[/snapback]

>
hey guys, angrymike here. first time on this board.

i've been welding and building for about 5 years now. i'm having a great time working with tweak. i've built stuff for toyotas in the past, but i would say i'm a little bit of a noob when it comes to toyota specifics. i specialize in saturns, however i've been turboing all kinds for things for the last couple years.

hopefully tweak will show me the ropes so we can offer more specific toyota toys.

if you guys have any questions on welding, fabrication, turbos or fuel stuff i can probably lend a hand.

This post has been edited by snapshotgt: Mar 22, 2007 - 12:11 AM

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Past: V6 Swapped 6G Celica, E46 BMW M3, Jeep Wrangler TJCurrent: 850rwhp C6 Corvette Grandsport, Gen1 6.2L Ford Raptor

gt_driFFter

#34

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QUOTE(playr158 @ Mar 21, 2007 - 11:30 PM) [snapback]538561[/snapback]

>


but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel..

advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site

Oh you mean like companies that solely rebuild all different types of engines? Like the one that directly quotes :

>

QUOTE

>Applying loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are "BREAKING-IN" the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the piston and other assemblies.

Yeah, I thought so.

Batman722

#35

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QUOTE(MrBill @ Mar 22, 2007 - 12:02 AM) [snapback]538598[/snapback]

>
>

QUOTE(playr158 @ Mar 21, 2007 - 9:30 PM) [snapback]538561[/snapback]

>
when you rebuild a motor you should rebuild...

but no you shouldn't "burst" accel or decel..

advice on breaking in a new motor is best found from your ENGINE BUILDER NOT on this site

but not going past 3k rpm and not boosting as much as possible....basic ways to just take it super easy on the engine i would image

funny that I've never read that before.
People say this say that, but we call them desktop engineers.
Ive known plenty of people that "break it in like you're going to drive it" with excellent results. Can you go forward with your explanation on WHY you think this way?
Is this motor completely stock? There is no cam break-in, a solid shot of boost will no-doubt seat those rings really well.

So tell me, where is your information coming from? Because i think you're a qualified desktop engineer sir, congratulations.
So please show me the documented evidence that mostly stock motors need any sort of break-in procedures.

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my st205 swapandour Beams swap

tim86

#36

hahaha thats funny... owned... good work tweak, awesome to see these great projects, hopefully ill make it up in a couple years or so

alltracman78

#37

2slow2nervous

#38

thanks for the info on breaking in the motor guys..... I keep hearing all diff things tho not one person has really agreed with each other so im just gonna see what tweak says to do... after all he is doing my motor and should kno the best. Waiting on him to post more pics should deff be up today!!! cant wait. And this project is not costing me about 10k believe it or not hes very well priced... U go into it with 5 a lil more u will have amazing work by tweak.

x_itchy_b_x

#39

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
ill give you guys a few quotes.
>

QUOTE

>What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !

>

QUOTE

>The real reason ???
So why do all the owner's manuals say to take it easy for the first
thousand miles ???

This is a good question ...

Q: What is the most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Failure to:
Warm the engine up completely before running it hard !!!

Q: What is the second most common cause of engine problems ???
A: An easy break in !!!

Because, when the rings don't seal well, the blow-by gasses contaminate the oil with acids and other harmful combustion by-products !!

Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!

>

QUOTE

>The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.

There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!

If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

this all about seating piston rings properly, but i figured id share. he has alot of good info on that site.
also congrats on the swap man!

This post has been edited by x_itchy_b_x: Mar 22, 2007 - 9:37 AM

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Visit My Automotive & Tech Blog.

Dr_Tweak

#40

Just so there's no mistake, "breaking in" an engine is only for new and rebuilt engines. After a swap (with a used engine, like this), no break-in period is required. I personally recommend a "take-it-easy" period for the first few weeks while you're getting to know the engine in your car and make sure everything is all set.

-Doc

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-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com

Negative

#41

So would he be OK to drive it home? What about me when I drive from your place to Houston, tx? Should be fine right cause the motor will already be used.

lagos

#42

i would follow the same rules toyota tell you when you buy a brand new car. drive normally ,but not too hard. do mostly city driving and no highway for the first 500-1000miles. youll probably also have a brand new clutch in there to break in.

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15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned

2slow2nervous

#43

thank u than it looks like ill just get my car towed from doc tweak to nj... and slowly work hear in around the home town..... I do have a new clutch so that needs to be broken in properly also.

Dr_Tweak

#44

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QUOTE(Negative @ Mar 22, 2007 - 2:44 PM) [snapback]538710[/snapback]

>
So would he be OK to drive it home? What about me when I drive from your place to Houston, tx? Should be fine right cause the motor will already be used.

Yes, it's a matter of routine for us to put a couple of hours of test-driving in around town, and then the customer drives it 6-12 hours home. Never had a problem. These aren't new engines, they're used.

-Doc

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-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com

Negative

#45

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QUOTE(lagos @ Mar 22, 2007 - 2:45 PM) [snapback]538712[/snapback]

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i would follow the same rules toyota tell you when you buy a brand new car. drive normally ,but not too hard. do mostly city driving and no highway for the first 500-1000miles. youll probably also have a brand new clutch in there to break in.

They are the ones who told me to Highway drive it for best results.

Thanks Tweak.

2slow - bet your excited.

2slow2nervous

#46

yea dude im really excited just waiting to see the work is driving me nutts lol... let alone drive it that will hit me when they say shes running! OOO wow i cant wait lol.

gt_driFFter

#47

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QUOTE(gt_driFFter @ Mar 21, 2007 - 10:10 PM) [snapback]538550[/snapback]

>


That is completely wrong.

The first 500 miles of break-in on a new or rebuilt engine should NOT be at continuous high speeds. Instead, Occasional, quick bursts of acceleration, followed by quick bursts of deceleration is best for the first 500 miles of break-in.

Although, I'm not even sure why you brought up breaking in a new motor, isn't his engine used?

>

QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Mar 22, 2007 - 10:41 AM) [snapback]538708[/snapback]

>
Just so there's no mistake, "breaking in" an engine is only for new and rebuilt engines. After a swap (with a used engine, like this), no break-in period is required. I personally recommend a "take-it-easy" period for the first few weeks while you're getting to know the engine in your car and make sure everything is all set.

-Doc

easternpiro1

#48

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QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Mar 22, 2007 - 10:38 AM) [snapback]538726[/snapback]

>
>

QUOTE(Negative @ Mar 22, 2007 - 2:44 PM) [snapback]538710[/snapback]

>
So would he be OK to drive it home? What about me when I drive from your place to Houston, tx? Should be fine right cause the motor will already be used.

Yes, it's a matter of routine for us to put a couple of hours of test-driving in around town, and then the customer drives it 6-12 hours home. Never had a problem. These aren't new engines, they're used.

-Doc

mine overheated on the way back and i also had to get antoher starter that weekend but other than that it was fine you shouldnt have a prob

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QUOTE (Galcobar @ Oct 15, 2008 - 2:44 AM)You want power but have no money. That's a problem.Cheap. Reliable. Fast. Pick two.

Dr_Tweak

#49

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QUOTE(easternpiro1 @ Mar 23, 2007 - 12:52 AM) [snapback]538886[/snapback]

>
>

QUOTE(Dr_Tweak @ Mar 22, 2007 - 10:38 AM) [snapback]538726[/snapback]

>
>

QUOTE(Negative @ Mar 22, 2007 - 2:44 PM) [snapback]538710[/snapback]

>
So would he be OK to drive it home? What about me when I drive from your place to Houston, tx? Should be fine right cause the motor will already be used.

Yes, it's a matter of routine for us to put a couple of hours of test-driving in around town, and then the customer drives it 6-12 hours home. Never had a problem. These aren't new engines, they're used.

-Doc

mine overheated on the way back and i also had to get antoher starter that weekend but other than that it was fine you shouldnt have a prob

When I said "never had a problem" I was referring to the subject at hand, which was breaking in the engine. There have been a couple of instances of intercooler couplers popping off or whatever, hiccups that tend to manifest themselves after a few days of driving the car.

-Doc

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-Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaireClick here to see my swapsdrtweak@phoenixtuning.com

angrymike

#50

lol, you guys are clowning on me about saturns?

this is one of my saturn projects.

2slow2nervous

#51

how thats sick lol... did u make all that urself?

lagos

#52

amazing work. however, if you post that pic next to the saturn its going into, then it wont look as good.

prio .. overheating seems to be common for guys who are still using the stock bumper and hood and have a fmic in place. id look into getting a bigger radiator or maybe a different front bumper. kind of makes you realize why toyota redesigned the gt4 hood/bumper. im still on my stock radiator and never had any cooling issues.

This post has been edited by lagos: Mar 24, 2007 - 12:26 AM

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15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned

Punisher

#53

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QUOTE(angrymike @ Mar 24, 2007 - 12:42 AM) [snapback]539256[/snapback]

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lol, you guys are clowning on me about saturns?

this is one of my saturn projects.

I'll say nice welds.. other than that.. it's a nice piece to hang on the wall.

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87 4runner DLX 22re, 5spd, 4.30gr, 4" lift, 30" tires, HID w/ Projectors, 6spkr + sub, custom exhaust, 94 celica leather seats, SR5 gauge cluster and clinometer. Future engine swap... possibly a 2jzge.

angrymike

#54

i've been building manifolds for about 4 years now. you guys are a little quick to judge.

i was rolling 340whp on my daily driven saturn for about 2 years.

not sure if i can post up a link, but heres my site:

www.alphatuning.com

any time you add a fmic on a car that isn't designed for it, your going to have heat issues. best thing to do is to get some beefy puller fans and possibly a new radiator.

the size of the intercooler going on this car isn't going to block the whole radiator. i wouldn't think there will be an issue at all.

This post has been edited by angrymike: Mar 24, 2007 - 9:36 AM

toyotacrazy

#55

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QUOTE(angrymike @ Mar 24, 2007 - 9:31 AM) [snapback]539323[/snapback]

>
i've been building manifolds for about 4 years now. you guys are a little quick to judge.

i was rolling 340whp on my daily driven saturn for about 2 years.

not sure if i can post up a link, but heres my site:

www.alphatuning.com

>

QUOTE

>any time you add a fmic on a car that isn't designed for it, your going to have heat issues. best thing to do is to get some beefy puller fans and possibly a new radiator.

the size of the intercooler going on this car isn't going to block the whole radiator. i wouldn't think there will be an issue at all.

Ive got a fmic on a car that wasnt designed for a turbo or a fmic and I have no overheating issues

2slow2nervous

#56

i just checked that link crazy mike.... thats ****s nutts... i see u do kno how make saturns badass!! did u really beat that supra if u did mad props bro... i want my celica to beat them!

WH95TE

#57

I demand more pics Oh, and I might be moving to Savannah to go to school!!!

brianforster

#58

im on stock hood and bumper and never overheated, however in the rain the rain steams off the top of my car.

alltracman78

#59

Whether or not the car has AC will effect it as well...

As for breaking in engines [yes I realize his doesn't need to be], I subscribe to this method.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Everyone has their own preferred method.
Even amougnst good techs.
That is just my personal preference.....

toyotacrazy

#60

I know this is your opinion and you are entitled to that. But I disagree with most of that method. They dont say anything about the bearings. Just rings!
Heres what Ive always done with brand new engines or overhauled engines:
If you are getting a japan engine it doesnt matter, its already broken in.
I always vary my speed and press on and off the gas constantly. Never go over 1/2 of redline until after 500 miles. Then progress slowly up to redline. At 500 miles I change the oil and filter. Ive never had any problems. Just my opinion. As I said everyone is entitled to that. Later all!
-toyotacrazy