I'll measure it, but it has a replaceable friction surface. There should be no machining involved at all, just replace the disk.
I think.....
I think.....
~bloodMoney
~bloodMoney
bloodMoney's Project V.3
~bloodMoney
Here's to everything going smoothly. Any idea on time frame or intended date of completion?
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Nothing's worse than HAVING to work on a car.
2000 GT-S 6 SPD...SOLD!
>
That's the best part about this car Joe. I don't technically HAVE to work on it. I'm trying to take my time, and enjoy learning about this car along the way.
Realistically, I've resigned myself to this car not making it back out this season. Once the engine is out, I'm most likely going to send it to the body shop. ,
Update: Made a little more progress last night
Vacuum reference for posterity:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Got the Radiator out:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Exhaust disconnected:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
And most of the LH side of the engine bay disconnected:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Including the loom through the firewall:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Which, I found, is difficult to do when the door opening angle is limited by the lift post. #firstworldproblems
This post has been edited by bloodMoney: Jul 18, 2019 - 7:52 AM
QUOTE (narly_charley @ Jul 18, 2019 - 7:29 AM) 
>Nothing's worse than HAVING to work on a car.
That's the best part about this car Joe. I don't technically HAVE to work on it. I'm trying to take my time, and enjoy learning about this car along the way.
Realistically, I've resigned myself to this car not making it back out this season. Once the engine is out, I'm most likely going to send it to the body shop. ,
Update: Made a little more progress last night
Vacuum reference for posterity:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrGot the Radiator out:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrExhaust disconnected:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrEngine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrAnd most of the LH side of the engine bay disconnected:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrIncluding the loom through the firewall:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrWhich, I found, is difficult to do when the door opening angle is limited by the lift post. #firstworldproblems
This post has been edited by bloodMoney: Jul 18, 2019 - 7:52 AM
~bloodMoney
Speaking of lift posts, did you install some foam rubber on them so when you inevitably bonk the door they'll at least hit rubber and not metal? They sell some 1/4 inch thick adhesive backed stuff on Amazon I've been meaning to line the sides of my garage with but some asshole before me popcorned the walls.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
>
How do you measure the step height?
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jul 17, 2019 - 12:06 PM)
>If you're reusing your flywheel then for the love of God make sure you have a .018 - .022 step height surfaced onto it. Much unhappiness and expense will follow if you dont. Ask me how i know...
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
How do you measure the step height?
-Alex {](O_o)[}1993.5 Toyota Supra....with stuff........sorta broken....1998 Toyota Celica....this one, too, has stuff........broken....yeah...definitely broken....
Good progress Chris, what a nice way to unwind after work every day.
>
ah one of those fancy flywheels. Yea I cant imagine it would be out of spec after replacing the surface.
>
Straight edge and a feeler gauge is what I do
For those who are skeptical, step height is probably one of the most important dims on a toyota clutch assembly. The whole aftermarket product category of extended slave cylinder pushrods exists because people are trying to find a band-aid solution for an improperly machined flywheel.
I was one of those people after I did my first swap. My (former) machinist put on a .005 step instead of .02 and I couldn't shift into gear because the clutch never really disengaged. An extended pushrod helped but I still couldn't get 100% disengagement and thus had a very notchy shifter feel. My synchros suffered quite a bit during that time
This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 18, 2019 - 11:11 AM
>
QUOTE
>I'll measure it, but it has a replaceable friction surface. There should be no machining involved at all, just replace the disk.
I think.....
I think.....
ah one of those fancy flywheels. Yea I cant imagine it would be out of spec after replacing the surface.
>
QUOTE (NgoFcukinWay @ Jul 18, 2019 - 9:38 AM)
>>
How do you measure the step height?
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jul 17, 2019 - 12:06 PM)
>If you're reusing your flywheel then for the love of God make sure you have a .018 - .022 step height surfaced onto it. Much unhappiness and expense will follow if you dont. Ask me how i know...
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
How do you measure the step height?
Straight edge and a feeler gauge is what I do
For those who are skeptical, step height is probably one of the most important dims on a toyota clutch assembly. The whole aftermarket product category of extended slave cylinder pushrods exists because people are trying to find a band-aid solution for an improperly machined flywheel.
I was one of those people after I did my first swap. My (former) machinist put on a .005 step instead of .02 and I couldn't shift into gear because the clutch never really disengaged. An extended pushrod helped but I still couldn't get 100% disengagement and thus had a very notchy shifter feel. My synchros suffered quite a bit during that time
This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 18, 2019 - 11:11 AM
I almost called you yesterday, but didn't want to bother you.
I found myself just staring at the car, trying to come up with a game plan on how to move forward, then I decided to just pull the radiator and things got rolling.
Will be back in the garage after work today if you want to stop out.
I found myself just staring at the car, trying to come up with a game plan on how to move forward, then I decided to just pull the radiator and things got rolling.
Will be back in the garage after work today if you want to stop out.
~bloodMoney
Any upgrades planned while it's apart? I know how easy it is for things to snowball.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Might as well build for 500hp while you're at it. 
2001 Miata LS 5-speed
>
Sometime between 5-10 years ago.
It's the Clutchmasters in there now, Stacy has the Exedy. I'll probably move to a stage 2 endurance SB clutch for this go-around.
QUOTE (Bitter @ Jul 15, 2019 - 7:46 AM)
>4th hearing only good things about SB stuff. How long ago was that clutch put in, that bad batch of Exedy was a very long time ago so it's unlikely unless the car's been sitting in storage for like 15 years.
Sometime between 5-10 years ago.
It's the Clutchmasters in there now, Stacy has the Exedy. I'll probably move to a stage 2 endurance SB clutch for this go-around.
~bloodMoney
At least this gives you a chance to freshen up your engine. I replaced the valve cover in Brigettes a couple of months ago and it was no fun. And the leak still persists... I think its just doing to keep leaking until I need to pull the engine for something. Im planning to go with a Southbend clutch whine this car finally needs one so Ill be curious how you like it when you get it in.
"Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings, so that you shall gain easily what others labored hard for." -Socrates. Even Socrates told us touse the search button!2006 Aston Martin V8 Vantage.1998 Celica GT-BEAMSSwapped.2022 4Runner TRD Off Road Prenium.2021 GMC Sierra AT4.
>
That's what she said.
QUOTE (richee3 @ Jul 16, 2019 - 4:17 PM)
>Ill be curious how you like it when you get it in.
That's what she said.
>
Indeed, something that concerns all women.
QUOTE (navseal345 @ Jul 16, 2019 - 7:32 PM)
>>
That's what she said.
QUOTE (richee3 @ Jul 16, 2019 - 4:17 PM)
>Ill be curious how you like it when you get it in.
That's what she said.
Indeed, something that concerns all women.
2001 Miata LS 5-speed
>
I had one of those in the Supra as well before going Southbend. Great little clutch, but unfortunate that it couldn't handle the extra power when I went single. lol
BTW, from my understanding, Southbend likes to underrate their clutches. The stage 3 Endurance in the Supra is rated for like 650ft-lb, but it can probably hold a bit more than that.
QUOTE (bloodMoney @ Jul 15, 2019 - 7:26 AM)
>>
Alex: We have an Excedy OEM replacement in the wife's ST165, and we love it. I am much harder on things than she is though, so I need something a little bit tougher than OEM spec.
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jul 14, 2019 - 3:20 PM)
>>
I was skeptical of south bend but now I wont install anything else. Dead reliable and do indeed use exedy parts. I even paid a visit to their facility and liked what I saw. They're a good bunch of dudes
QUOTE (NgoFcukinWay @ Jul 14, 2019 - 12:53 PM)
>Southbend's clutches are Exedy-based clutches. They've gotten good reviews and I enjoy mine in the Supra. Waiting to install the one I have for the Celica.
I was skeptical of south bend but now I wont install anything else. Dead reliable and do indeed use exedy parts. I even paid a visit to their facility and liked what I saw. They're a good bunch of dudes
Alex: We have an Excedy OEM replacement in the wife's ST165, and we love it. I am much harder on things than she is though, so I need something a little bit tougher than OEM spec.
I had one of those in the Supra as well before going Southbend. Great little clutch, but unfortunate that it couldn't handle the extra power when I went single. lol
BTW, from my understanding, Southbend likes to underrate their clutches. The stage 3 Endurance in the Supra is rated for like 650ft-lb, but it can probably hold a bit more than that.
-Alex {](O_o)[}1993.5 Toyota Supra....with stuff........sorta broken....1998 Toyota Celica....this one, too, has stuff........broken....yeah...definitely broken....
That's what I'm thinking too Daniel. This engine really doesn't leak, but I'm probably going to be placing an order with GT4Play once I know what the damage is going to be for the bodywork.
Alex: I don't think that I'm needing a Stage 3, as I'm not making all that much power/torque.
Waiting for Luke to jump back in and let us know what he is using.
My big concern is that their PP is going to be like ACT. I HATE the ACT HD Pressure Plate. It caused me all sorts of problems in the ST185.
Alex: I don't think that I'm needing a Stage 3, as I'm not making all that much power/torque.
Waiting for Luke to jump back in and let us know what he is using.
My big concern is that their PP is going to be like ACT. I HATE the ACT HD Pressure Plate. It caused me all sorts of problems in the ST185.
~bloodMoney
I'm 90% sure im running their stage 2 endurance clutch. The disk is an exedy part, and the pressure plate is an exedy part that they modify and paint red. Very streetable clutch
I'm using it in combination with a competition lightweight steel flywheel with the required .02 step height. Absolutely zero problems, as has always been my experience with southbend.
I'm using it in combination with a competition lightweight steel flywheel with the required .02 step height. Absolutely zero problems, as has always been my experience with southbend.
I have the stage 2 endurance for the Celica as well that I bought through PrimeDriven cuz that's the highest they offer. It's gonna be glued to the Spec flywheel that came with my car. I've yet to have them installed though.
-Alex {](O_o)[}1993.5 Toyota Supra....with stuff........sorta broken....1998 Toyota Celica....this one, too, has stuff........broken....yeah...definitely broken....
Perfect. Stage 2 endurance it is.
It already has a Fidanza lightweight flywheel in it, so I'm covered there.
This post has been edited by bloodMoney: Jul 17, 2019 - 10:26 AM
It already has a Fidanza lightweight flywheel in it, so I'm covered there.
This post has been edited by bloodMoney: Jul 17, 2019 - 10:26 AM
~bloodMoney
If you're reusing your flywheel then for the love of God make sure you have a .018 - .022 step height surfaced onto it. Much unhappiness and expense will follow if you dont. Ask me how i know...
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 17, 2019 - 12:18 PM
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 17, 2019 - 12:18 PM
I'll measure it, but it has a replaceable friction surface. There should be no machining involved at all, just replace the disk.
I think.....
I think.....
~bloodMoney
Here's to everything going smoothly. Any idea on time frame or intended date of completion?
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Nothing's worse than HAVING to work on a car.
2000 GT-S 6 SPD...SOLD!
>
That's the best part about this car Joe. I don't technically HAVE to work on it. I'm trying to take my time, and enjoy learning about this car along the way.
Realistically, I've resigned myself to this car not making it back out this season. Once the engine is out, I'm most likely going to send it to the body shop. ,
Update: Made a little more progress last night
Vacuum reference for posterity:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Got the Radiator out:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Exhaust disconnected:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
And most of the LH side of the engine bay disconnected:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Including the loom through the firewall:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on Flickr
Which, I found, is difficult to do when the door opening angle is limited by the lift post. #firstworldproblems
This post has been edited by bloodMoney: Jul 18, 2019 - 7:52 AM
QUOTE (narly_charley @ Jul 18, 2019 - 7:29 AM)
>Nothing's worse than HAVING to work on a car.
That's the best part about this car Joe. I don't technically HAVE to work on it. I'm trying to take my time, and enjoy learning about this car along the way.
Realistically, I've resigned myself to this car not making it back out this season. Once the engine is out, I'm most likely going to send it to the body shop. ,
Update: Made a little more progress last night
Vacuum reference for posterity:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrGot the Radiator out:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrExhaust disconnected:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrEngine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrAnd most of the LH side of the engine bay disconnected:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrIncluding the loom through the firewall:
Engine out by bloodMoney2012, on FlickrWhich, I found, is difficult to do when the door opening angle is limited by the lift post. #firstworldproblems
This post has been edited by bloodMoney: Jul 18, 2019 - 7:52 AM
~bloodMoney
Speaking of lift posts, did you install some foam rubber on them so when you inevitably bonk the door they'll at least hit rubber and not metal? They sell some 1/4 inch thick adhesive backed stuff on Amazon I've been meaning to line the sides of my garage with but some asshole before me popcorned the walls.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
>
How do you measure the step height?
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jul 17, 2019 - 12:06 PM)
>If you're reusing your flywheel then for the love of God make sure you have a .018 - .022 step height surfaced onto it. Much unhappiness and expense will follow if you dont. Ask me how i know...
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
How do you measure the step height?
-Alex {](O_o)[}1993.5 Toyota Supra....with stuff........sorta broken....1998 Toyota Celica....this one, too, has stuff........broken....yeah...definitely broken....
Good progress Chris, what a nice way to unwind after work every day.
>
ah one of those fancy flywheels. Yea I cant imagine it would be out of spec after replacing the surface.
>
Straight edge and a feeler gauge is what I do
For those who are skeptical, step height is probably one of the most important dims on a toyota clutch assembly. The whole aftermarket product category of extended slave cylinder pushrods exists because people are trying to find a band-aid solution for an improperly machined flywheel.
I was one of those people after I did my first swap. My (former) machinist put on a .005 step instead of .02 and I couldn't shift into gear because the clutch never really disengaged. An extended pushrod helped but I still couldn't get 100% disengagement and thus had a very notchy shifter feel. My synchros suffered quite a bit during that time
This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 18, 2019 - 11:11 AM
>
QUOTE
>I'll measure it, but it has a replaceable friction surface. There should be no machining involved at all, just replace the disk.
I think.....
I think.....
ah one of those fancy flywheels. Yea I cant imagine it would be out of spec after replacing the surface.
>
QUOTE (NgoFcukinWay @ Jul 18, 2019 - 9:38 AM)
>>
How do you measure the step height?
QUOTE (enderswift @ Jul 17, 2019 - 12:06 PM)
>If you're reusing your flywheel then for the love of God make sure you have a .018 - .022 step height surfaced onto it. Much unhappiness and expense will follow if you dont. Ask me how i know...
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
Edit:
Also, the torque spec for the pressure plate bolts is NOT 14ftlbs as listed in the fsm. Researching showed that 22 ftlbs is appropriate! I had a pressure plate start coming loose because of this. Even the mr2 guys at primedriven recommend 22:
https://primedriven.com/collections/clutche...ure-plate-bolts
How do you measure the step height?
Straight edge and a feeler gauge is what I do
For those who are skeptical, step height is probably one of the most important dims on a toyota clutch assembly. The whole aftermarket product category of extended slave cylinder pushrods exists because people are trying to find a band-aid solution for an improperly machined flywheel.
I was one of those people after I did my first swap. My (former) machinist put on a .005 step instead of .02 and I couldn't shift into gear because the clutch never really disengaged. An extended pushrod helped but I still couldn't get 100% disengagement and thus had a very notchy shifter feel. My synchros suffered quite a bit during that time
This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 18, 2019 - 11:11 AM
I almost called you yesterday, but didn't want to bother you.
I found myself just staring at the car, trying to come up with a game plan on how to move forward, then I decided to just pull the radiator and things got rolling.
Will be back in the garage after work today if you want to stop out.
I found myself just staring at the car, trying to come up with a game plan on how to move forward, then I decided to just pull the radiator and things got rolling.
Will be back in the garage after work today if you want to stop out.
~bloodMoney
Any upgrades planned while it's apart? I know how easy it is for things to snowball.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Might as well build for 500hp while you're at it.
2001 Miata LS 5-speed