Sammy Hagar references out of the way I figured I should do a project thread for my newly acquired Firebird. Since I already posted pictures in the Today I... thread I'll just post the one plus one of the engine for the time being.



For those that didn't see in the other thread it has a 4-bolt main 350 and TH-350 from a '69 Chevelle. The 350 has been bored .40 over, heads worked and shaved for 12:1 compression ratio, 3/4 cam, and Edelbrock 750cfm carburetor & intake. The transmission was also gone through and refreshed as well. The car also has new brakes and suspension, for whatever that's worth. Actually I'm surprised at how well it drives, sure it's no modern sports car but for a 70's muscle car I'm actually kind of impressed. Pretty much the bulk of what's needed is interior and exterior cosmetic work.

As far as plans I'd like to finish up the exterior and interior as I go. Then engine is sorted as far as I'm concerned, just needs some headers and a full exhaust done along with a new air cleaner setup as you can see. Oh, and hook up A/C again. I'll just get a compressor and brackets from a same year Camaro. Would like to upgrade the brakes and suspension along with converting to a manual one of these days. This will be a car I intend to keep for pretty much forever as I've always wanted one and it was/is one of my realistic dream cars, along with the Corvette. In the coming days I'll be touching up a few things here and there not really worth writing about, i.e. replacing bulbs and wipers etc... I'll have to get some exhaust videos this weekend when I have some time and help available. I think that pretty much covers everything. It does need some tires soon, so also trying to decide on what to do there. I can stay with 15's but get some snowflakes, get some 16's from the 3rd gen GTA, or get some 17's from Year One rather they be snowflakes or something else. I am heavily considering up-sizing to help with steering and handling feel, get ride of some of the sidewall flex...

Disc brakes?

Looks like ya need some headlight adjuster screws/hardware, that way Boss Hog won't pull ya over on the way back from where your still is hidden.

I hate those wiper/washer setups on those. Frickin diaphragm pump built into a cam on the wiper motor and damn if they ever work quite right. Plumb in a little inline pump instead or something if you want reliable working washers.

http://www.nastyz28.com/tech/electrical/wiper.html

This post has been edited by Bitter: Dec 10, 2014 - 11:10 PM

that car needs a 2jz or a 3sge blacktop, real bad.

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I have some. On that one the plastic insert slipped and now it's going to be a pain to remove it to put in the new one. Figured might as well wait until I'm putting in new and improved headlamps to mess with it.

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In the front. Was part of the upgrades I had in mind. Depending on the size of the rims I decide on will determine what setup I go with.

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All of the stuff is there and the interior controls work, just missing the bottle. Thanks for the link, I'll have to check it out. I'm sure the pump died which would explain the missing bottle.

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Those don't sound like Satan laughing or violently twist the body when you rev them up, where's the fun in that?

Also, I've never had so many people stop to look/ask about a car... I've already lost count, not to mention the people that turn and look as you drive by. I guess if I was wanting a low profile car I chose the wrong one. Anyhow, almost done going through and checking everything and will be placing an order at RockAuto soon. I found some Wagner sealed beams that're supposed to be brighter/whiter than conventional halogen for $5-8 each. Not bad and will hold me over until I can decide on a more advanced optics. I also found some electronic flashers I think I'll buy since they'd allow me to use LED bulbs for all of the signal lights. Still have to decide on if I want to go with long tubes or shorties as well as work out a better air cleaner setup. The amount of options is staggering, which does make for a nice change for once.

Was able to get the rear window trim in and got to the point where I can put new bulbs in the driver taillight, then ran out of light. The bulbs have been in there for a long time apparently as they're seized into the sockets...so of course a ten minute job is taking over an hour... So will finish it and then do the passenger side tomorrow. Need to get onto RockAuto and start a list of parts to buy. It never ceases to amaze me how content someone can be with a car, then I get a hold of it and kill myself trying to fix every little thing.

It would look good with some of those reproduction snowflake wheels.

I really love the snowflakes, just not sure if I'd want to go up to 17's though. Currently it has Rally II rims, and finding a set of original snowflakes wouldn't be too pricey. Either that or get the 16" GTA rims from the third gen. Like I said earlier, lots of choices... Being the world's most indecisive person doesn't help.

Hey at least you have a car now

As far as lights, Cibie Z beams if you want to keep with classic halogens, I think they come in 4x6 rectangles (I think that's what you have).

Otherwise buy some plastic housings with clear front lenses and go crazy with some sweet D2S Bixenon projectors backed by some good OEM ballasts and very bright Nightbreaker Unlimited D2S bulbs and you'll have some awesome lights. You can do some Halo's packed behind the shrouds or out in front or some nice demon eyes. Use amber halo's and tie them into the turn signals, all kinds of ideas.

totally need louvers on the back window.

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Exactly, I'm sure everyone I knew was tired of giving me rides all of the time. Though in fairness from the time I was finally compensated by insurance it only took about a month to get a car.

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I'd only want to do HID's if I go pretty far with the resto-modding. That and my brother with 5K HID's constantly gets flashed and he has projectors with a nice cutoff that're aimed properly... I have really sensitive eyes and constantly getting flashed would not be good.

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Yes!!!

If he's always getting flashed then they're not aimed right or people down there are as stupid as the stereotypes.

Or did he shove HID's in halogen projectors? If he did then that's why he's getting flashed all the time, halogen projectors usually glare pretty bad with HID's installed since the arc isn't a bulb filament the lens and bowl are not tuned for HID. Also there's usually holes in the cutoff to allow some light above the cutoff to illuminate signs, HID projectors don't have that.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Dec 12, 2014 - 8:33 AM

Gripping the wheel, his knuckles
went white with desire! The wheels
of his Mustang exploding on the
highway like a slug from a .45.
True death: 400 horsepower of
maximum performance piercing the
night... This is black sunshine

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****, when you're always asking for rides people stop answering the phone quick. And "hey can I borrow your car." Is even worse than "Hey can I borrow your wife?"

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We did it from 20' and they're set to where the focus point hits 30" off the ground. I think it's a lot of stupid people, because we even drove towards each other to double check and there wasn't any excessive glare and they're about as white as you can get. What killed me is there was some tool in a lifted truck with eBay 10K HID's in reflector housings that had the audacity to try and start ****. I'm like really?

I have to wear yellow lenses at night unless I want to be blinded constantly. I really need to get a doctor to write me an exemption so I can run darker window tint than what's legally allowed. I've thought about running a sheet of 70-90% across the entire windshield to cut glare and UV down, then have the 6" strip of 2.5% I think the exemption allows me to run at least 20% on the sides and back versus the 35% that's normally allowed.

I think its like 3 degrees drop per foot or something, the cutoff should hit the road about 300 feet out (not that you can see it, must use math).

Anyway, back to the topic of GM EFI, the TBI setups from the factory in the later 80's and early 90's are fairly good. They use two low pressure shower injectors and with some light modding they're capable fuel delivery systems able to supply engines upto 400hp on small blocks and much more with the TBI big blocks. You can get the SBC TBI's cheap at junk yards and the adapter plates are about $50 at Jegs. The SBC TBI setup is easy to mod for higher fuel pressure and the ECM I believe is hackable to run custom ROM's like throttle percentage based injection instead of MAP sensor based which means it doesn't matter how lump the cam is. You'll be revisiting these posts the first time there's a problem with your carb and you're trying to trouble shoot. The GM TBI is incredibly reliable, I see them with 1/4 million miles with the original injectors. The only time I've had to repair them is when some tried to install an intake on their truck and broke one of the wires to an injector.

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gm-ecm-pcm-con...conversion.html They also have a forum there.

Equal height from 20 feet is close enough for government work. Don't have anywhere that's further back to test, but down the road it seems to point where it should.

My grandfather had a 1500 with the TBI 350, had over 250K on it before selling it. If I go fuel injection I'd really like to go multi-point though to get the most from my time and money.

Can you bolt on Vortec heads to that block? They flow fairly well and would let you do multi point injection with some readily available manifolds. I know the Vortec heads have much smaller faster burning chambers so you'd be cranking the CR up, maybe too high!

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56505 good info!

This post has been edited by Bitter: Dec 13, 2014 - 8:49 PM

Well the head-gasket part number is the same on the 350 from 1955-2002 depending on the supplier, so I guess that'd be a good sign that it would. Should be able to find one of those trucks or SUVs from '96-00 easy enough to take everything from.

Which after doing some calculations, and my first assumption turned out to be right, the 750 cfm carburetor is too big. At most should need 600-625 cfm. Guy before said he had a 650 on it and it was choking it, I don't see how. I'm sure I can find someone that'd love to trade their 600 cfm for the "bigger is better" 750 cfm...

Might not be too big with Vortec heads on it though, if you decide to keep it carb'd. That Z28 forum post should answer most of the questions in swapping, looks like they just bolt right on but use the dealer gaskets since they're nitrile rubber in an aluminum carrier and really are that much better than aftermarket designs.

From what it was saying would have to redo the valve-train for a larger cam. Meh... I was wanting a big block anyway, so may just rip out the 350 and sell it and get what I want.

They made Vortec head big blocks too...just sayin...

Vortec headed BBC and SBC are as good as it's going to get without jumping up to a LSx engine. GMPP does have that 7.4L LS iron block setup...

This post has been edited by Bitter: Dec 14, 2014 - 1:42 PM

I know. Right now I'm just aggravated with previous owner stupidity. PCV system was blocked off with a bolt inside of the hose, for whatever reason... Plus trying to decide if I should get another carb or use that money at Pull-A-Part to rip the top end and wiring out of a Vortec 5700...

My original plan was to find one with the 301 and then throw in a Cadillac 500 after building it up.

Nah, just pull a whole 8100 Vortec...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Big...ine#Vortec_8100