I get the feeling it'd be harder to find for some reason. Hell once this one isn't drowning in fuel and can breathe properly it'll probably wake it up even more. More than I'll ever use on the street, when anyone is around anyway.

You know you could have bought a 1990 Skyline...25 years man.

I'm kind of burned out with the import thing though. Most of the "import crowd" are punk ass kids I want nothing to do with, and right or wrong you get lumped in with them no matter how nice and tastefully done your car is. Hell, mine were stock in appearance and had stock exhaust...

The Firebird on the other hand in a week I've received more compliments and have had more people ask about it than I have had with all of the imports put together. Plus people are always waving, it makes me feel loved. I like muscle cars and imports, it's just that my heart belongs to muscle cars. The exhaust note and body twisting as you rev the motor is magical. I don't know, I just feel special when behind the wheel and I've never really felt that way before in any other car.

After revisiting some articles decided short/mid length headers will be best, as they give more power in the idle-4,000 rpm range where long tubes actually make considerably less power there and don't make more power over the shorties until the 4,200-6,000 range. Which considering I'll spend almost all of my time in the lower rpm's it makes more sense, plus they're a lot easier to install... Also based on calculations dual 2.5" should be more than enough. Probably will run some 30" MagnaPacks off each header and go out the side, that way don't have to worry about clearing the axle/paying a shop.

Another portion of my neglecting sleep for research I found where the HEI distributor likes full time vacuum advance, as it'll help more completely burn the fuel at idle and lower engine speeds. Of course it was hooked up to part time vacuum...so fixed that in the dark while I was thinking about it and hopefully it makes a notable improvement. Plus I was reading where an AVS Edelbrock carburetor would only give the engine what it needs, which how they operate with the counter-weighted secondary it kind of makes sense, but at the same time why would they have kits for re-jetting if that were entirely true? That and I started looking at rims, kind of funny how the 17's have a much better tire selection at better prices...

This post has been edited by Box: Dec 15, 2014 - 8:08 AM

Sell the car. Get skyline. Get sleep. This car is aroject? Tought it was a daily

It is a daily, it's just my OCD that makes any car a project for me. Insomnia keeps me up all of the time anyway, this time I was just more productive than usual. A Skyline would be much worse than this. The Celica I went overboard as I tore off the top of the motor to flush the injectors and clean out the intake manifold along with opening the tank to change the pump filter, just as preventative maintenance along with the new plugs and wires and etc... The Miata I was doing a turret service, engine and drive-train service, along with replacing things like the pedal pads and adjusting the throttle body and clutch just because they weren't just right. Not to mention I busted my ass buffing out the single stage paint and waxing it. All of this within the first week or two. I have incredibly high standards when it comes to my cars and I won't stop until everything is to my satisfaction. I would say the only way to avoid this would be to buy a brand new car, but even then probably not.

Well after hooking up the advance to full time and readjusting the carburetor it's much better now. It actually reaches operating temperature now, and doesn't take forever either. Was running at 165º and now runs at 190º... So you can only imagine how much fuel it was dumping to make it run that much cooler... Oddly enough it never smoked or bogged down. Needless to say it feels much more powerful now, and might actually get a little better than 6 mpg. Anyhow, I'll be changing the plugs and oil ASAP as I'm sure the plugs are fouled something fierce and the oil has to be contaminated. See, this is where my OCD comes in handy.

Ha, yea I bet.

Now when you go from park to drive or reverse it just takes off, still need to put the new plugs and wires in too. Decided to go with some NGK platinum plugs since the platinum is more resistant to fouling and misfiring, that and some Federal magnetic core wires. Also I put some 93 octane into it this time around and that seems to have helped as well. Once the temperature had increased it started to spark knock with the regular, which I was kind of surprised he said regular was fine but of course now I know as to why it was... I also readjusted the electric choke and now all you have to do is turn the key to on, pump the pedal once to pump in some fuel and set the choke and then you're good to go. Have some Castrol Edge 5W-30 to go in it as well, just need to find a good oil filter to go with it. Will do that along with the plugs etc... all at once. Still need to really figure out a better air filter setup, as going off CFM calculations for filters it's way too small. I found a setup from Spectre that has an aluminum plenum that attaches to the top of the carb, and has a 4" outlet that you can attach some piping to and run it out to the front of the car and use a cone filter. It reminds me of how the Chrysler TBI V8's were set up. I imagine it's a good deal better than the traditional open element filter. Once I decide on the rims I want and put some good rubber onto it I'll probably take it out and see what it'll do at the track. Really need to redo the exhaust too, stock manifolds with 1.75" piping isn't the best for a stock 350 much less a built one. Really thinking about finding a V6 5-speed 4th gen with a blown motor to buy for parts. Could use the brakes, transmission, and seats from it. Would even look into using the rear coil spring suspension to replace the leaf springs. That and if I found one with nice looking rims, could use those too I suppose, Just so many things that can be done, it's overwhelming really.

Sounds like it's a whole new car, with it running that well there's really no reason to bother with EFI.

looks like youre havinn fu with yur project car!!!

once you fix, it dont sell it.

up here they only worry about 35% on the front doors. The back windows and rear glass can be painted black if you like. In fact I run 20% on the front doors and nobody really cares.

It really is, after setting it up and putting it into drive it surprised me the first time. It's just astounding how small things can make a huge difference, especially with not having a computer to bandage things on the go for you. I'd still like to do a multi-point EFI, but I don't really feel it's necessary as I'd be doing it more for efficiency than power. I'm excited to see how much better it gets just with the fresh plugs and wires, as it looks like what's on there was just scrounged up... I'll buy headers/exhaust and one of the cold air intakes here soon for it, and that should really help too. Definitely will keep an eye out for a 4th gen parts car, my thought process being the Miata will more or less cover buying one. I really like the idea of modernizing the transmission, suspension, brakes, and chassis while keeping the old school motor.

It is fun, can be aggravating at times though. Mostly fixing previous owners' blunders, which is the most irritating... At the same time there's that sense of accomplishment at the end of the day and knowing you're saving a car that otherwise might have slipped through the cracks. It also helps being a car I've always wanted. I just think they're a great looking car, and with the right touches here and there they really don't look dated at all. I've thought about it and part of me really likes the plain body with only having the spoiler, that and I love the fact it's a hardtop car. No leaks, stiffer body, and sleeker profile. I've already been told by numerous family members that if I ever go to sell it they're buying it. I think this is a car I'll keep forever though. Of course I really need to pick something up that's better on fuel, but now that it's sorted if I can get into the low 20's it won't be so bad.

I'd just like to have the medical exemption so that way I don't have to worry about it. I'd like to run 20% on the sides and back, then have the front done in 70-90% to cut glare from the sun and headlights.

First noteworthy update in awhile. Was going to install a PCV system instead of the breathers, but whatever valve covers(look like Mr. Gasket) are on it now the holes are too big for the PCV grommet. So will have to figure something out there, or buy new covers that're OEM style but just taller. The thermostat that was in there was a 180º surprisingly, but it looked to be pretty old... So I threw in the 195º and a new gasket along with replacing the radiator cap. Then I replaced the spark plugs and wires. I don't know what the Hell, but the spark plugs that were in there were so old the body where the socket fits over were rusted...that and they were so fouled and worn I'm surprised it ran as well as it did. Not to mention one didn't even match the rest of them... Also new 8.5mm magnetic core wires to top it off. Needless to say it runs much smoother and I'm not choking from the smell of raw fuel being dumped out of the exhaust. Now it just smells like old car, which is fine. The only other thing is I replaced the original fuel cap as I figured it probably needed it anyway. The only thing now is to reset the idle speed and choke speed, but it ended up taking longer than it should have. The number 6 plug is a bit of a pain to get to thanks to the A/C condenser, but with enough cursing and arm twisting you get it eventually. Definitely was easier to change the plugs on my brother's with the 301. The next thing to do will be to replace the transmission filter and pan gasket, along with adjusting the shift cable. That and the oil and filter, perhaps the oil pan gasket.

Reset the idle mixture and speed earlier, had to go a whole 1.5 turns richer since doing the plugs and wires to get the maximum amount of vacuum. The brakes work a lot better now, go figure... Gets up to temp nicely and no signs of spark knock or dieseling with 93, so that's good. Definitely seems to run much better now, and sounds healthier when revving it out. Funny how a few small things can make such a difference. The valve covers are leaking, especially on the passenger side. Suppose that will be part of the next plan of action, along with finding some covers that aren't gaudy chrome.

I tought this car went to clunkers program.

Nah, it just needed help. I have to say it's amazing the differences in a person's idea as to what a great running car is though...

Figured it was time for an update since some noteworthy things have occurred. Up until now I did change the valve cover gaskets and engineered a PCV system, so no more leaks and constantly adding oil. Oil pressure is more stable too, just wish I had felt up to it sooner. Though in self defense the previous owner siliconed cork gaskets into place and it was a total nightmare to straighten out, had it not been for that... Anyhow for recent events I refurbished the air cleaner assembly off a '79 C10 to use in lieu of the tiny open element filter, as it wasn't happy at all sucking in underhood air. Bought a Wix filter to use with it for now and ran ducting from the snorkel down to the front bumper, much happier now. The next thing to do is refurbish the shaker scoop I bought and either finding a shaker hood or cutting out mine. A few pictures:




I wish I had taken some before pictures of the air cleaner assembly, it looked like it had been sitting on the ocean floor for ages. Amazing what a wire brush, some rust stripper, and epoxy paint can do.

Covered some plywood and made a hatrack cover panel:

Think I did a pretty good job considering it was the first time doing something like that. At the least it'll look a lot better than the velour or whatever that was thrown up onto there.

May or may not be the last update, just depends if I can find a rear cheap enough to take the stress off the transmission and torque converter. For the time being I'm having to flash the converter a little to get going, no more than you'd rev a manual while engaging the clutch so it shouldn't cause too much trouble. I am going to install a trans cooler before I do any extended driving though. Anyhow was able to get this done Sunday:


I also threw on this decal(bonus points for those that get the reference) since it condenses my life, and especially befitting with this car, into three simple words:

Some more pics in front of Django the Durango:


I think it looks pretty good with the black hood and shaker, and just having the shaker and spoiler without the rest of the Trans Am attire. I still need to get around to painting the rims solid black and polishing out the beauty rings, but not happening in this heat and humidity...

Looks nice man. Hopefully to can get the trans issue worked out. Honestly an auto in one of those wouldn't bother me. You're making me want something American more and more

This post has been edited by 1994Celica: Jul 7, 2015 - 9:04 PM

Thanks. I had posted in the Today I... thread where I found the problem out of a TCI article. The rear gear is way too steep and causing "over revs" to get moving. I've experimented and I can keep my foot on the brake and give it some gas to flash the converter and roll off the brake to get moving smoothly and civilly, much in the way you'd rev up and roll out the clutch. Or if I hold the brake and rev it to where the body twists up first it takes off like a raped ape even with the 2.41 rear. I'm going to try and find a 3.08-3.42 rear to take the stress off the converter and transmission, which going to research into which gear would be best as I'd like to keep it as low as possible with the 3-speed.