I have a 95 Celica GT just under 200k. It had problems downshifting before, but I had replaced the gear oil and everything was smooth again. Today I stopped at a light and the car wouldnt shift into first...or second or anything. I turned the car off switched it into first then I was able to get it into second, but it wouldnt go any further or back to first. I had to drive home in second with my hazzard lights on. Luckily I was a mile away from home. The clutch seems like it is still strong. Could this be the pressure plate or something similar?
Gears only shift when car is off - 6G Celicas Forums
possibly the clutch itself is dragging on the flywheel causing you not to put it into gear since it still thinks the clutch is engaged. When you put the clutch to the floor does the pedal just stay at the floor when you release it?
Give the clutch a good bleeding to see if you got any air in the system.
Give the clutch a good bleeding to see if you got any air in the system.
2nd Gen 3s-gte.... It lives!97celiman"92-gt-quit making up random acronyms that dont mean anything. the only real acronym is JDM"
Nope, the clutch comes right back when I release it. Normal stiffness
clutch isn't disengaging for some reason, got fluid?
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
I had this problem too. There is an adjustment on the pushrods on the pedal, need to be adjusted out
1996 Toyota Celica Project Mean Green3RD Gen 3SGTE WRC Edition W/LSD E153 - Love BOOST <32001 Solar yellow Lexus IS3002001 Dodge ram 1500 Off-road edition
does your clutch pedal vibrate when you push it down? my pressure plate blew up and I could not get it into gear without turning it off
What I think when you think I care
Yes there is fluid in there. I tried to move it it went into reverse but didn't want to go into any other gear. I turned off the car and was able to get it into first then the car made a weird noise and it was stuck in first. The car was moving foward and I pressed the clutch to stop it bu the clutch would not disengage.
A bad throwout bearing will do that. Did it to my friends Volvo before. Couldn't shift into or out of any gears, replaced the throwout bearing and everything was good again. Co-workers throwout bearing blew up and it did that as well lol.
*shrug*
*shrug*
1994 Toyota Celica GT-S 5S-FE 190k Miles. Project car1992 Toyota Celica GT 5S-FE 170k Miles. Daily driver/beater1999 Toyota Camry LE 5S-FE 216K Miles. RIP You will be missed.*ASECertifiedGeneralManager
had a very similar problem. a spring on my clutch disk broke and became wedged between the clutch and the pressure plate leaving it always engaged. if you havent replaced your clutch yet this may be the culprit
JN 3:16--------------------------------------
Either way....it looks like everyone is saying its a clutch problem. Well the car is about 13 miles away from my house. Lets hope I can atleast get it into 3rd and make it over there. How difficult is it to change the clutch? It looks really right down there
pretty good walkthroughs on the site. very straightforward
it took me all day but i did have an extra pair of hands and a tranny jack to help things along. also machine shop down the street returned my flywheel in about an hour
good luck man, let us know what the actual cause was when you crack the tranny apart
-jec
it took me all day but i did have an extra pair of hands and a tranny jack to help things along. also machine shop down the street returned my flywheel in about an hour
good luck man, let us know what the actual cause was when you crack the tranny apart
-jec
JN 3:16--------------------------------------
Either way, it's not going to hurt to put a new clutch in with how many miles you have lol.
1994 Toyota Celica GT-S 5S-FE 190k Miles. Project car1992 Toyota Celica GT 5S-FE 170k Miles. Daily driver/beater1999 Toyota Camry LE 5S-FE 216K Miles. RIP You will be missed.*ASECertifiedGeneralManager
Yea, I just wish it could have waited another thousand miles or so.
Jason: Did you have to drop the tranny all the way or just enough to slip the clutch off? Also did you have to remove the struts to get to everything?
Jason: Did you have to drop the tranny all the way or just enough to slip the clutch off? Also did you have to remove the struts to get to everything?
>
your gonna take it off all the way so you can replace and grease the throw out bearing. you will have to remove the axle from the hub and in order to do that you;ll have to disconnect the strut from the bottom(2 bolts and the clip that that hold the brake line in place) i imagine you can just work arounf the strut but i went ahead and removed it. just undid the 3 bolts on top (under the hood on the strut housing) and got it out of the way.
this is a good oppertunity (although it sucks your clutch will have to be replaced) to replace the rear main seal and axle seals if their leaking.
also while my tranny was out i cleaned all the gunk off of it so i could see in the future if there were any leaks
good luck
peace
-jec
QUOTE (m2736185 @ Jan 28, 2012 - 3:23 AM) 
>Yea, I just wish it could have waited another thousand miles or so.
Jason: Did you have to drop the tranny all the way or just enough to slip the clutch off? Also did you have to remove the struts to get to everything?
Jason: Did you have to drop the tranny all the way or just enough to slip the clutch off? Also did you have to remove the struts to get to everything?
your gonna take it off all the way so you can replace and grease the throw out bearing. you will have to remove the axle from the hub and in order to do that you;ll have to disconnect the strut from the bottom(2 bolts and the clip that that hold the brake line in place) i imagine you can just work arounf the strut but i went ahead and removed it. just undid the 3 bolts on top (under the hood on the strut housing) and got it out of the way.
this is a good oppertunity (although it sucks your clutch will have to be replaced) to replace the rear main seal and axle seals if their leaking.
also while my tranny was out i cleaned all the gunk off of it so i could see in the future if there were any leaks
good luck
peace
-jec
JN 3:16--------------------------------------
>
One of my springs broke of the plate and was jammed in there . I managed to wiggle and get it working again but 3 months later the clutch broke and pieces were rattling around. New clutch and working perfect noe
QUOTE (m2736185 @ Jan 28, 2012 - 2:23 AM)
>Yea, I just wish it could have waited another thousand miles or so.
Jason: Did you have to drop the tranny all the way or just enough to slip the clutch off? Also did you have to remove the struts to get to everything?
Jason: Did you have to drop the tranny all the way or just enough to slip the clutch off? Also did you have to remove the struts to get to everything?
One of my springs broke of the plate and was jammed in there . I managed to wiggle and get it working again but 3 months later the clutch broke and pieces were rattling around. New clutch and working perfect noe
Looks like I got one of those 1 day projects that will proly turn into a week ahead of me. So before I start taking things apart.....there is now way this could be the slave cylinder right? I had someone press on the clutch and it looks like the forks are being pulled out all the way each time.
if the slave is pushing the fork then the clutch hydraulic system is working. I would just replace the master and slave anyways if they're old.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
>
The shop changed my slave with the clutch and it is much easier to press now.
QUOTE (Bitter @ Jan 28, 2012 - 1:46 PM)
>if the slave is pushing the fork then the clutch hydraulic system is working. I would just replace the master and slave anyways if they're old.
The shop changed my slave with the clutch and it is much easier to press now.
Sounds like clutch drag.
I had the same issue on the gt4 with a cracked friction plate, kept dragging and wouldnt shift right.
Busted from too many hard launches i think.
I had the same issue on the gt4 with a cracked friction plate, kept dragging and wouldnt shift right.
Busted from too many hard launches i think.
Well, I got the undercover off so I could get a good idea of what I had to do....everything looks doable, but there are 2 things I know is gonna be a pain in the ass. #1 the rear engine mount I dont see how the hell I can even get a wrench in there. #2 The bearing mount on the passenger side that I need to take remove inorder to take out the passenger side axel..how the hell do I get a wrench in there? Also, I noticed a lot of people said I had to remove the down pipe is this so I can lower the engine because it looks like I have enough clearnace to to remove the transmission from where it is
>
I didn't remove the downpipe. Just did my clutch 2 weekends ago, solo.
The rear mount is the hardest part. Most say to rock the engine, or lift it with a jack. Thats all fine and dandy, but I've never been able to get the right angle.
What I do, is lower the whole suspension crossmember about 1 1/2 inches, then jack the engine up. That gives you just enough room to get the mount and crossmember aligned in. Simply just restore the mount center bolt, and tighten the right up.\
What do you mean by trans bearing mount? Just the trans mount? You need a 14mm deepwall to get the mount off.
This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 30, 2012 - 11:25 AM
QUOTE (m2736185 @ Jan 30, 2012 - 11:05 AM)
>Well, I got the undercover off so I could get a good idea of what I had to do....everything looks doable, but there are 2 things I know is gonna be a pain in the ass. #1 the rear engine mount I dont see how the hell I can even get a wrench in there. #2 The bearing mount on the passenger side that I need to take remove inorder to take out the passenger side axel..how the hell do I get a wrench in there? Also, I noticed a lot of people said I had to remove the down pipe is this so I can lower the engine because it looks like I have enough clearnace to to remove the transmission from where it is
I didn't remove the downpipe. Just did my clutch 2 weekends ago, solo.
The rear mount is the hardest part. Most say to rock the engine, or lift it with a jack. Thats all fine and dandy, but I've never been able to get the right angle.
What I do, is lower the whole suspension crossmember about 1 1/2 inches, then jack the engine up. That gives you just enough room to get the mount and crossmember aligned in. Simply just restore the mount center bolt, and tighten the right up.\
What do you mean by trans bearing mount? Just the trans mount? You need a 14mm deepwall to get the mount off.
This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 30, 2012 - 11:25 AM
The bearing mount - mean the mounting bracket that needs to be removed to take off the passenger side axel. Wow...I can see this rear mount becoming a 5 hour ordeal. Well Let me start by removing the the axels and ill update with the progress
>
Oh okay, that one. Thats easy enough, just need a rachet and extension. Going to need to raise the car up quite a bit, you be literally under there for quite some time.
The drive axle is going to be the pain, as you have to pry it out. If you don't have proper pry bars, I suggest going to pick some up now. Watch when prying out you don't hit the dust shield, and do not tension the axle. Hang it up straight with some line, then pry out on the pry points.
When doing the rear mount, the steering rack is going to be the pain.
QUOTE (m2736185 @ Jan 30, 2012 - 11:57 AM)
>The bearing mount - mean the mounting bracket that needs to be removed to take off the passenger side axel. Wow...I can see this rear mount becoming a 5 hour ordeal. Well Let me start by removing the the axels and ill update with the progress
Oh okay, that one. Thats easy enough, just need a rachet and extension. Going to need to raise the car up quite a bit, you be literally under there for quite some time.
The drive axle is going to be the pain, as you have to pry it out. If you don't have proper pry bars, I suggest going to pick some up now. Watch when prying out you don't hit the dust shield, and do not tension the axle. Hang it up straight with some line, then pry out on the pry points.
When doing the rear mount, the steering rack is going to be the pain.
i managed to get the rear mount off without dropping the crossmember. i think under the cross member theres a little plastic cover that exposes the nuts that hold the bracket that houses the rear mount. i removed those as well as the front and tranny mount then just jacked the motor up till i could remove it.
also for prying out the the drivers axle a shift fork fit it perfectly for me. i think theres you tube vids of this.
if you wreck them or their super old replace those axle seals while your down there i think their 11 bucks/each from toyota
-jec
also for prying out the the drivers axle a shift fork fit it perfectly for me. i think theres you tube vids of this.
if you wreck them or their super old replace those axle seals while your down there i think their 11 bucks/each from toyota
-jec
JN 3:16--------------------------------------
>
I have seen somewhere here that you need to remove the crossmember or take that bolt from the top. But the other bolt you are talking about I have removed it is done by getting them from the front and removing a little bracket (3 bolts) then get it from the back. I was able to do a good amount of cleaning while in there.
QUOTE (m2736185 @ Jan 30, 2012 - 11:05 AM)
>Well, I got the undercover off so I could get a good idea of what I had to do....everything looks doable, but there are 2 things I know is gonna be a pain in the ass. #1 the rear engine mount I dont see how the hell I can even get a wrench in there. #2 The bearing mount on the passenger side that I need to take remove inorder to take out the passenger side axel..how the hell do I get a wrench in there? Also, I noticed a lot of people said I had to remove the down pipe is this so I can lower the engine because it looks like I have enough clearnace to to remove the transmission from where it is
I have seen somewhere here that you need to remove the crossmember or take that bolt from the top. But the other bolt you are talking about I have removed it is done by getting them from the front and removing a little bracket (3 bolts) then get it from the back. I was able to do a good amount of cleaning while in there.
Second day working on the car and surprisingly no major issues. I got the driver side axel off. It took a few minutes, but I found a nice spot to pry it off without damaging the seal.
I was able to remove 4 bolts on the bearing holder of the passenger axel, but there still seems to be something holding it on the top. Is there any trick to getting off the passenger side? I dont see any nice spots to pry it off with.
My car has ABS so I have the little abs sensor on the bottom of the hub...I took out the 10mm bolt holding it and had to pry it off with a screw driver and it split into two magnetic halves with some silicone around it...I hope I didnt break it because I know those are $$$
I was able to remove 4 bolts on the bearing holder of the passenger axel, but there still seems to be something holding it on the top. Is there any trick to getting off the passenger side? I dont see any nice spots to pry it off with.
My car has ABS so I have the little abs sensor on the bottom of the hub...I took out the 10mm bolt holding it and had to pry it off with a screw driver and it split into two magnetic halves with some silicone around it...I hope I didnt break it because I know those are $$$
Yeah, you're ABS won't work anymore since you broke the piece, but you're in Florida so it's not like you're getting any snow haha Just learn to quickly pump the brakes if you need to stop fast. As for the passenger side, there are only 2 bolts on the carrier bearing bracket, on the back side of the engine. You then need to take the nut off the axle (or just remove the whole knuckle with the axle still in it). If you remove the whole knuckle, you need to take the two bolts off the strut, the 3 on the bottom side near the ball joint, and then the cotter pin and nut for the tie rod end. Tie Rod nut, then ball joint, and then strut bolts. It will make the process a lot easier.
damnit, I should have just left it on there. Maybe I can find one in a junkyard. Yea I already got all that stuff off. I just needed to get the bracket off. Lets see I removed on bolt on top one on the side one on the bottom and one on the passenger side of the wheel. I guess I will give it another try tomorrow. Hopefully I can gave the tranny out by tomorrow
it's not even worth trying to get one out of the junkyard, it's going to break as well. Plus you'll need to take the axle out of the knuckle to pop the rest of the sensor out. here's a link on removing the drivers side, there's just the 2 bolts on the back side of the engine for the carrier bracket, on the passenger axle
Just got both axels out. Got the front mount out and losened the crossmemeber bolts. I am about to remove all the stuff connected to the tranny now. BTW I noticed that the rear mount is bolted through the crossmember. If I remove those 3 bolts covered by the plastic covers in the rear of the crossmember do I need to remove the center bolt in the mount or can I jus jack the engine up remove the crossmember and remove the tranny like that?