Yes, you need to remove the center bolt on the rear mount. it's the only way to get it out. Just get a few long extensions and go from the drivers side wheel well to get it out or you can go under the car.
Gears only shift when car is off - 6G Celicas Forums
Wow, that rear mount gave me hell, but I got it out after 2 hours of fighting. I got everything else off the tranny all I gotta do now is drop the tranny.
So I unbolt the tranny from the engine and then I unbolt the driver side engine mount? Do i unbolt the mount from the middle or from the 3 screws that are on the tranny
BTW I think I figured out what the problem was. I took off the starter and I was able to see the pressure plate and the flywheel. The pressure plate looks like someone took a hammer to it. So I am guessing one of the springs broke off.
So I unbolt the tranny from the engine and then I unbolt the driver side engine mount? Do i unbolt the mount from the middle or from the 3 screws that are on the tranny
BTW I think I figured out what the problem was. I took off the starter and I was able to see the pressure plate and the flywheel. The pressure plate looks like someone took a hammer to it. So I am guessing one of the springs broke off.
the middle bolt can be a pain in the a$$ to get out (unless you jack the engine up and down) because the bolt will get stuck after it's halfway through. It'll will probably be easier to take it off with the 3 bolts (if you can) and then put it back on that way as well. Just make sure you have a 2x6 across the strut towers with a chain wrapped around it and connect the chain to the engine to support it (since it will only be on 1 mount). then just wiggle the transmission off. It's easier with two people and a jack to lower it down and pull it out.
Watch out when dropping that trannie, there are alot of hidden things you may catch on, like the sensor that is hidden on the rear side of the trannie.
Good luck, and have patience!
Good luck, and have patience!
yes, don't forget about the speed sensor. that wouldn't be good it you ripped the wiring out. and make sure you have the reverse sensor on the top unplugged as well
Wahoo! I finally got the tranny off. I didnt order parts yet. Does anyone have any suggestions for a clutch set in the $150 range? I was thinking exedy or a f1 stage 1 or maybe a regular set from NAPA?
BTW looks like a spring broke off and that was causing all the problems
Uh oh Looks like i got a major oil leak coming from up top
BTW looks like a spring broke off and that was causing all the problems
Uh oh Looks like i got a major oil leak coming from up top
do not get an f1. just get a regular OEM clutch setup from the dealer. my f1 disc went after 1,500 miles. All the springs blew out, and the TOB (throw out bearings) are junk. the OEM is just about $200, but well, well worth it. Take the pressure plate off and get more pics!!! haha
gonna go with mkernz22
considering your budget, for 50 bucks more i'd go with the toyota option. consider how long yours has lasted thus far. are you resurfacing your flywheel?
don forget axle and rear main seals
good luck
-jec
This post has been edited by JasonTX: Feb 3, 2012 - 4:03 PM
considering your budget, for 50 bucks more i'd go with the toyota option. consider how long yours has lasted thus far. are you resurfacing your flywheel?
don forget axle and rear main seals
good luck
-jec
This post has been edited by JasonTX: Feb 3, 2012 - 4:03 PM
JN 3:16--------------------------------------
I was gonna wait until I get the new parts to take everything off So I would remember how everything went on, but I guess I should take everything off to make sure the flywheel isnt damaged. I already made a few calls and found a place that will resurface it for $30 if it isnt damaged otherwise im gonna get a Sachs for $60 on eBay. I will have to get the rear main seal, but im going to hold off on the axel because I plan on replacing them next month when I get some extra $$.
Are there any other options in that price range other than OEM? I was hoping for an "upgrade". I really dont want to have to do this job again anytime soon so if its my best option I might go with it. I did a little research and many people said exedy was very close to OEM. I also heard southbend and ACT were really good, but they are a little out of my price range.
Are there any other options in that price range other than OEM? I was hoping for an "upgrade". I really dont want to have to do this job again anytime soon so if its my best option I might go with it. I did a little research and many people said exedy was very close to OEM. I also heard southbend and ACT were really good, but they are a little out of my price range.
leaky valve cover gasket, so common on the 5S.
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
Took the clutch off today to see if I could resurface the flywheel...looks a little beat up. I am hoping I can because I had the clutch sent 2nd day air so I could get everything done by Tuesday. I will be replacing the axel seals in about a month when I replace the axels. What about the rear main seal? Which one is that? I am hoping I dont have to wait for it.
FLYWHEEL
FLYWHEEL TEETH
What is this? The flywheel doesnt need to go in a certain way right? You just bolt it up
Looks dirty in there
This post has been edited by m2736185: Feb 4, 2012 - 3:13 PM
FLYWHEEL
FLYWHEEL TEETH
What is this? The flywheel doesnt need to go in a certain way right? You just bolt it up
Looks dirty in there
This post has been edited by m2736185: Feb 4, 2012 - 3:13 PM
you need a flywheel.
rear main doesn't look too bad, hows the input seal on the trans? Most of that oil is from the valve cover gasket/distributor o-ring.
Shoulda got a V8!
This post has been edited by Bitter: Feb 4, 2012 - 4:09 PM
rear main doesn't look too bad, hows the input seal on the trans? Most of that oil is from the valve cover gasket/distributor o-ring.
Shoulda got a V8!
This post has been edited by Bitter: Feb 4, 2012 - 4:09 PM
2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E
I had an F1 in my 7gc...worked pretty good for me...can't remember how long I used it for though...maybe 6 months and no probs
What I think when you think I care
if you had any oil on the flywheel bolts, replace the rear main seal. actually just do it anyway. might as well do it while you have the transmission off
you're flywheel is done, just get a new one. resurfacing it won't help at all.
you're flywheel is done, just get a new one. resurfacing it won't help at all.
Damnit I guess I got 2nd day delivery on the clutch for no reason since I gotta wait for more parts. I'm gonna order a sachs flywheel on Monday. Yea 2 of the bolts had oil on them....that's proly why there is a mess in there. I assume the rear main seal is the one that goes between the crankshaft and the flywheel. Do you have a part number? I tried searching and I only found the axel seals. I'm tempted to do the timeing belt and water pump now....I have no idea if it was ever changed.
rear main does not look bad. (its the rubber that sits around the holes you bolted your flywheel too)
but its not easy to get to. consider the cost of a new seal now vs a new seal and install when it starts to leak when you make your decision
either way good luck. its hard to tell on your flywheel hot deep thode pits are. but there is a lot of material to work with on there take it to a machine shop and ask what they think. remember your flywheel has a step any machine shop worth it's salt should preserve this when they resurface
peace
-jec
This post has been edited by JasonTX: Feb 4, 2012 - 11:54 PM
but its not easy to get to. consider the cost of a new seal now vs a new seal and install when it starts to leak when you make your decision
either way good luck. its hard to tell on your flywheel hot deep thode pits are. but there is a lot of material to work with on there take it to a machine shop and ask what they think. remember your flywheel has a step any machine shop worth it's salt should preserve this when they resurface
peace
-jec
This post has been edited by JasonTX: Feb 4, 2012 - 11:54 PM
JN 3:16--------------------------------------
>
it might not "look" bad, but if there is oil on any of the bolts you definitely want to change it while you're in there.
it's not feasible to take the transmission an all the other stuff back off just to do something so simple right now. if you do replace it, remember to take your oil out first lol
QUOTE (JasonTX @ Feb 4, 2012 - 11:29 PM) 
>rear main does not look bad.
but its not easy to get to. consider the cost of a new seal now vs a new seal and install when it starts to leak when you make your decision
either way good luck. remember your flywheel has a step any machine shop worth it's salt should preserve this when they resurface
peace
-jec
but its not easy to get to. consider the cost of a new seal now vs a new seal and install when it starts to leak when you make your decision
either way good luck. remember your flywheel has a step any machine shop worth it's salt should preserve this when they resurface
peace
-jec
it might not "look" bad, but if there is oil on any of the bolts you definitely want to change it while you're in there.
it's not feasible to take the transmission an all the other stuff back off just to do something so simple right now. if you do replace it, remember to take your oil out first lol
>
just to clarify i agree with this. reread my post and it didnt read like it sounded on my head lol
QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Feb 5, 2012 - 12:37 AM)
>it might not "look" bad, but if there is oil on any of the bolts you definitely want to change it while you're in there.
it's not feasible to take the transmission an all the other stuff back off just to do something so simple right now. if you do replace it, remember to take your oil out first lol
it's not feasible to take the transmission an all the other stuff back off just to do something so simple right now. if you do replace it, remember to take your oil out first lol
just to clarify i agree with this. reread my post and it didnt read like it sounded on my head lol
JN 3:16--------------------------------------
Does anyone know the part number for the rear main seal? This is the only one I could find W0133-1795517.
This post has been edited by m2736185: Feb 6, 2012 - 3:38 PM
This post has been edited by m2736185: Feb 6, 2012 - 3:38 PM
I checked the manual and I couldnt find the torque specifications for the bracket that the main rear seal is in.
Well for anyone replacing the main seal DO NOT remove the housing unless you plan on resealing and removing the oil pan. You can just pry it out easily with a seal puller.
I bolted the transmission back up today...that was the longest 2 hours ever. Had to get 2 people to help me line it up. It would have been 100x easier if I had a lift.
So i ended up cleaning my transmission today...as i scrubed the top it revealed a "96" written in marker that was hidden under the dirt and oil. Looks like the previous owner must have replaced the clutch and tranny.
I bolted the transmission back up today...that was the longest 2 hours ever. Had to get 2 people to help me line it up. It would have been 100x easier if I had a lift.
So i ended up cleaning my transmission today...as i scrubed the top it revealed a "96" written in marker that was hidden under the dirt and oil. Looks like the previous owner must have replaced the clutch and tranny.
Lol, did you use a jack or something to do the trannie? Jesus that thing is heavy.
You can run solo with a hoist =)
Glad to hear its going together good.
You can run solo with a hoist =)
Glad to hear its going together good.
Ha I tried to use the jack at first, but I couldnt get it aligned and it kept slipping off the jack so I had 2 people guide it up with rope and I was under benchin it. Still took a while to get i all aligned, but after that workout I called it a night. I should get everything together tomorrow
I think im done tryin to get everything to the right torque specifications. "Suspension crossmember bolts "112 LBS" Now I have one suspension bolt because the other one snapped.
BTW for the axel/cv nut on our cars they can be reused right
BTW for the axel/cv nut on our cars they can be reused right
don't always go by specifications. do it until it's really tight. the bolts on our cars are 15 years old and they are bound to break. yes the axle nuts can be reused just put a new cotter pin in.
lol, yes I think im gonna use the "really tight" method for anything over 50 LBS. I was determined to finish this lil project today had to get pull out the lights, but I just manage to put everything back together. Started it up and ran it on the stands and everything is good. The clutch is a little soft. Im gonna try bleeding it a little more tomorrow and do a road test.