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Rave's Next Progression Thread - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #82083 270 posts Started by rave2n
Good to see your still working on this man!

95 gt coupe, v6 swap weekend toy99 gt hatch beams swapped wife's94 st hatch my daily driverhttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=82235n
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QUOTE (kurt95gt @ Jun 5, 2015 - 12:19 AM) *
>Good to see your still working on this man!


Haha thanks, its slow going, but its going. Literally have no time, but have the motivation. So, as long as I get some progress I'm happy.



Transmission is on.

Next pictures should come a much different angle.
So, I got tired of teasing you guys about a garage, so I didn't post till it happened.

Thus, GARAGE!



*1997 Celica ST - 3SGE Greytop BEAMS*1977 Celica RA29 - Classic Cruiser*2005 Matrix AWD - dedded but still hanging around like a ghost2019 Rav4 XLE Premium - Sports mode is fun.
x 2.81 gigawatts

I had a garage in the last place but not this one, I miss it. Congratulations!

'97 ST\ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+[sold 10/18]'93 MX-5LE
Anyone know the order in which the injector wires plug in? They seem to go brown white brown white connectors, but I can't recall now.

Trying to put the harness back on, but I removed the plastic, and now I can't figure out which wire goes to which injector.

Bah, looks like I'm looking up the wire colors. Time to dust off the old diagram.

If you read my whine earlier, ignore it. Rough month.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Dec 5, 2015 - 5:22 PM
Got some work done today.

Have much time nowadays. Lady and I of 10 years split, and been trying to fill the void. The Celica proves its worth once again.

Harness is back on, found a schematic and was able to match up the wire colors with injectors properly. Only a few dangling connectors, but I'm pretty sure they are for intercooler and relays etc.

New hub and etc put on after the tow truck stripped the bearing out the last. Had one laying around so it worked out quite well. Dust shield is pretty much rusted out, but something to replace another day. Have another laying around, but don't want to pull the spindle/bearing out.

Started cleaning up the crossmember, and trying to find all the bolts. Some things have been moved from their locations & labeling in the latest move. Its all here..just, has to be found.

So, just a few things to tidy up in the bay, get the mounts ready, and down the engine goes. TOOOOOOON more to do, but I'll be happy to get that engine out of the air.

Keep at it man. The first time you hit boost it'll be aaallll worth it
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QUOTE (enderswift @ Dec 13, 2015 - 12:25 AM) *
>Keep at it man. The first time you hit boost it'll be aaallll worth it


Truth!

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So you guys like progress eh?

Well here ya go.

Out of the bay before the timing and such was completed.



Completed getting it off the hoist, and the side mounts attached. Was a little to worn to get the crossmember and do the rear mount fight. Next weekend maybe, I'm happy with the progress for the amount of time I put in, and searching for hardware lol.



As you can see, I have PLENTY to do still. This was a huge step for me though, this bay has been empty for over a year, and hauling stuff around was quite taxing. Now it feels like a project I can complete. Lets just hope I don't have to pull the assembly any time soon!
hard part looks to be over! You should feel like you're making quick progress now thumbsup.gif

Standing by for updates smile.gif

at least the progress is not dead, thats what counts.

Learned a lot in 10 years...I hardly log in anymore, last loginToday Sept 6 2019, and I was forced just to clarify a post. LOLIf you PM me and I dont respond, dont fret or cry. Im alive, better post your questions in the thread below, maybe I log back in2grfe Swapped...Why I chose the 2GR, before you ask read here...A great civilization is not conquered from without until it has destroyed itself from within.@llamaraxing in Instagram is the best way to find me. I hardly log here anymore.
Keep it up man! thumbsup.gif

Rare JDM Dealer Option Parking(Proximitiy) Senor for salehttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=97051
always nice to see more progress when I pop in here. keep it up!

*1997 Celica ST - 3SGE Greytop BEAMS*1977 Celica RA29 - Classic Cruiser*2005 Matrix AWD - dedded but still hanging around like a ghost2019 Rav4 XLE Premium - Sports mode is fun.
Ello again folks, and thanks again for the e-motivation wink.gif

Been just messing around with things, nothing really major. Finding hardware, fighting all these vacuum lines and such.

Speaking of which, can someone tell me which one to use if not both cause these 2 items aren't matching up to me. I'm almost sure you use just the right one, but after planning 2 years ago and never touching it, I kinda lost all that...



Most other things seem to be going OK.

Seems the shifter cables are oddly to short, possibly have them routed wrong in relation to the steering rack.

The fuel line doesn't quite make it to the filter..well it does, but I'm not overly content with how tight that is. May have to find another solution for that.

But once I get these few items situated, I'm going to start tearing apart the wiring. I'd appreciate any tips or links that give a through walkthrough on the wiring. I keep hearing, its just 6 wires so...maybe it is that easy =)

This post has been edited by rave2n: Dec 26, 2015 - 3:15 PM
I know that if you change the transmission to something other than the one that came with the 5sfe engine (s54??) that you have to use GT4 shift cables. My transmission is out of an MR2 and I needed the longer cables.

As far as the charcoal canister goes, the one on the left is what's in my car although that may be the stock US Celica version. I don't know if it really matters all that much as long as you can connect all the vacuum hoses.

By the way, don't make the mistake of plugging the idle air supply hose that runs out from under the throttle body or connecting it to vacuum. The previous owner did that to my car. The idle air supply needs to connect right after your air filter or have a separate air filter. I went through and straightened out all my vacuum/air hoses and learned a lot about how these hoses connect. When I got my car it was idling at 1500rpm from vacuum leaks and bad adjustments.
You can use either or none.

my st205 swapandour Beams swap
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QUOTE (antoine64 @ Dec 26, 2015 - 6:51 PM) *
>I know that if you change the transmission to something other than the one that came with the 5sfe engine (s54??) that you have to use GT4 shift cables. My transmission is out of an MR2 and I needed the longer cables.

As far as the charcoal canister goes, the one on the left is what's in my car although that may be the stock US Celica version. I don't know if it really matters all that much as long as you can connect all the vacuum hoses.

By the way, don't make the mistake of plugging the idle air supply hose that runs out from under the throttle body or connecting it to vacuum. The previous owner did that to my car. The idle air supply needs to connect right after your air filter or have a separate air filter. I went through and straightened out all my vacuum/air hoses and learned a lot about how these hoses connect. When I got my car it was idling at 1500rpm from vacuum leaks and bad adjustments.


Appreciate the tips!

I am using the S54, so the cables should reach just fine, but possible I just didn't have the engine in the right position at the time. Its been a long time since I took them off. Its realllly close, 1 fits fine, the other is just like a quarter inch and it'll sit in its ring.

Did swap to the right canister, figured if I have it, might as well use it lol. Some of the lines I'm still confused on, but I'll figure those out eventually. I just need to dig through the threads and find some good pics.


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QUOTE (enderswift @ Dec 26, 2015 - 7:54 PM) *
>use the one on the right


Much Grass - Used that one, few lines are confusing but I'll figure it out.

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QUOTE (Batman722 @ Dec 26, 2015 - 9:52 PM) *
>You can use either or none.


Thanks!

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So went at it this morning. Swapped out those canisters, still figuring the lines, but all in due time. Couple other lines and connectors sorted out.

Did the dance with the rear mount. Typically I would be fighting it for hours, but I put 30 minutes into it, took a break and came back and get it done in 10 minutes. I cheated though, I lowered the sub-frame to get that little bit of clearance =)

Need to go pick up a new fuel line sometime next week. It fits, probably be fine, but I can grab a SS one down the street so figure why not, and maybe tuck it better.



That layer of dust really makes it look worn, but I did try to clean it up some. All in all, its just dirt.

Next weekend, after vacuum lines are sorted, its allll wiring time baby =) Oh yea, need to figure out studs for the down pipe. May just have to drill it out, and put some new hardware on.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Dec 27, 2015 - 6:27 PM
Finally figured out the shifter cable issue, which wasn't an issue. Was just me being semi-retarded...

For some reason I was trying to take them too far, whereas they just clipped in. Derp.

But, I also need some help folks. I've been searching for some good images of how people have these ran, but I just cannot find a good look.



In this image, would it be correct to place that line on the nipple next to the fuel line? - Its coming from a hardline off the wall near the charcoal canister.

Its the blue arrow in the next image.



For the right red arrow, is that line connected to the right hardline on the wall? The left red arrow, those smalls lines. I believe one goes up to the intake manifold right after the throttle body. Seems to be a few small connections up there. I'm curious to where the second one goes. I also thought there is suppose to be a line that vents to environment, but I don't see how that would happen either.

Last one...



Not sure where these buggers go. Air intake pipe?

Appreciate any tips, I get this figured out, I do wiring tomorrow wink.gif

I'm also up for deleting these items like Batman mentioned, if it would be easier to re-route and cap some things off, Im up for that. Just need a little direction and any potential side effects.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 1, 2016 - 12:51 PM
in your first picture with the white arrows, that is the fuel return line. It connects to the end of the fuel rail on that nipple you point to with the white arrow. I recently had that line leaking fuel so I had to replace it. You might want to get a new hose while you've got things apart to avoid smelling gas. your red arrows image sounds correct. I think you want this hose to go to P or E on the throttle body providing vacuum when the throttle is open but no vacuum at idle. on the last picture those look like vacuum hoses but without seeing where the other end goes, I can't tell.
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QUOTE (antoine64 @ Jan 1, 2016 - 7:26 PM) *
>in your first picture with the white arrows, that is the fuel return line. It connects to the end of the fuel rail on that nipple you point to with the white arrow. I recently had that line leaking fuel so I had to replace it. You might want to get a new hose while you've got things apart to avoid smelling gas. your red arrows image sounds correct. I think you want this hose to go to P or E on the throttle body providing vacuum when the throttle is open but no vacuum at idle. on the last picture those look like vacuum hoses but without seeing where the other end goes, I can't tell.


On that fuel return line, I assume that goes back to the tank? I thought it would be connected to charcoal canister? Or does the line above it, the right right arrow do the canister to tank run?

I think it does, but I'm trying to mesh together how all these goes looking at 50x diagrams, and it seems most have just deleted this. Seeing I already have, I figured I'd hook it up =P

On that last picture, those small hoses connect to a hardline that ends up to another soft line on the intake manifold.

Did find my MAP sensor, so that will cover one of the inlets on the intake, and VSV which did relieve some confusion. Appears one end of the VSV goes to the intake, the other to the W2A exchanger.

Appreciate all the help!

The most pictures I could find on it, where on Pressure2's build, but he removed his canister, but it did help me figure out other lines lol.

I may have some of it figured out. Go go part numbers...

77277A - Fuel Return Tube - Indicates the return to the middle hardline

77261E - Tank to Canister - Indicates the left most line facing forward of vehicle.


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Well just went to it, and got more done...I think I have it all right now...Had to go pick up a small line and bridge to replace what seems to be gone. Luckily they had it available =) Just the line that comes from the charcoal to those nipples on top labeled P & E



Confirmed I got the right fuel return to hardline hooked up, found my VSV, and turns out I have 2 MAP sensors.

I didn't realize it was still attached to the harness this whole time. First thing I did when I got the engine was remove the harness expecting to ship it off. Didn't work out. It would appear the bracket and the top piece of it with part number were torn off but the sensor and line itself were intake and connected to the manifold, I just removed the connection. So, I have a spare now =)

Looks dirty as hell, but meh, at least things are finally lining up.

I expect to do wiring tomorrow. Unpin, repin, fight if I want to extend just a few wires or get creative...

Oh anyone know why the coil pack is hitting the hardline on the master? I swear I have the right mounting place...

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 2, 2016 - 5:01 PM
I'm glad to hear your figuring it out. lots of hoses that need to be hooked up just right to make it work. I had fits sorting out my hoses. Still not sure if everything is right.

here's a picture of my engine. I feel like the previous owner was smok'n crack when they put the engine in but I've been sorting things out. My ignition module points out instead of to the side like yours. I don't know if that's your problem or not. the vacuum line over the top of my intake manifold plugs into the top of the charcoal canister. Mine is the older canister in your picture not the fancy one that came with your engine. they probably work similar though. the two large black hoses draped over my turbo piping go to the air intake tube. one is for the breather and the other is for the idle air and stock turbo vsv air.

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QUOTE (antoine64 @ Jan 2, 2016 - 5:30 PM) *
>I'm glad to hear your figuring it out. lots of hoses that need to be hooked up just right to make it work. I had fits sorting out my hoses. Still not sure if everything is right.

here's a picture of my engine. I feel like the previous owner was smok'n crack when they put the engine in but I've been sorting things out. My ignition module points out instead of to the side like yours. I don't know if that's your problem or not. the vacuum line over the top of my intake manifold plugs into the top of the charcoal canister. Mine is the older canister in your picture not the fancy one that came with your engine. they probably work similar though. the two large black hoses draped over my turbo piping go to the air intake tube. one is for the breather and the other is for the idle air and stock turbo vsv air.


Lol, yours looks pretty damn clean man!

I got a ton of clean up to do, a lot of it looks like hell right now, but its really me mocking it all up and getting everything in order since it sat for 2 years. In all reality, it will be pulled again in a year, harness will be cleaned up and re-wrapped, and I expect to either get a e153, or find a LSD scenario for the S54 since I recently had it rebuilt. So right now, I just want it running. I can nitpick items down the road. Having 2 vehicles helps =)

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Working on the wiring today.

Doing the 6 wires on the EA1. Ran into a slight issue, as I do not have the body harness itself, been trying to source it forever, but never could find it, so it looks like I'm going to have to get some pickup wire and wire these few in themselves. Thankfully, they cut the wires with a good 6 inches on them, leaving me enough space to work with them. Finding OEM connectors should be interesting for all these items...kinda hoping they are still on the items, but I doubt it. They were hard enough to even get shipped in the first place...a year of fighting to get that damn W2A pump.

Need to get the diagrams out and make sure I'm doing this right. I think its just FP, coil, and W2A runs. Re-pinning should be easy enough, done that a million times, but I'm short a pin for the internal clutch start because my 5S harness went with the 5S when sold. No big deal on that though, that portion won't get behind the firewall until next weekend, so I may be able to remedy that.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 3, 2016 - 11:22 AM
Well, figured out my wiring issues...quite a bit more simple than I expected once I really started to focus on it.

Time to make a harness for this relay box. Got lucky, because all the wires match from the 3s EA1 plug. So all I should need to do is repin from the 3s plug into the 5s plug and call it a day. So one end is made, solder in the rest another time, then carry the pins over.

Supplies


Don't forget to tin that wire wink.gif


I think she'll hold...


Right or not at all?


Almost done


Finished product


So I should stop begging for help now. I literally sat down for 3 hours today and went over all the stuff I used to know, and refreshed myself. Once again 6gc saves the day. I followed pressure's build til I needed to pull out diagrams on the wiring since mine is a little different.

Starting to get excited, its not far from running. I do still have to do the ECU side of the harness, but I'm thinking I'm getting creative with that. I still have enough room to cut a hole and go that route into the center.
good job. People always assume wiring is harder than it really is
Nice wire connecting! That's what I do: Solder and shrink tubing. Sometimes I'll add a little liquid electrical tape to seal it up good. It's a shame you didn't use the same wire colors but you just need to mark them so you know which is which. I suggest a label maker or to solder a small several inch stub of the original wire to the end so that end-to end is the same color.
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QUOTE (antoine64 @ Jan 3, 2016 - 10:07 PM) *
>Nice wire connecting! That's what I do: Solder and shrink tubing. Sometimes I'll add a little liquid electrical tape to seal it up good. It's a shame you didn't use the same wire colors but you just need to mark them so you know which is which. I suggest a label maker or to solder a small several inch stub of the original wire to the end so that end-to end is the same color.


Where I'm soldering to is the default color wink.gif after that I just move the pins. I have leads at the end of the ea1 socket for the 3s box, so these are just jumpers per say. Can always continuity test a line. I left the original colors at my solder joints just electrical wrapped for easy access to lines. =)

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 3, 2016 - 9:52 PM
Wiring part 2!

My 5s EA1 plug was solid in the empty pin holes. I tried to drill it out, but doing so messed up the socket and the pins wouldn't sit right, and/or damage them when connected.

So I swapped my 3s plug over to the 5s body harness. Repinning is fairly easy, I just used a tiny flat head to release the pins after removing the white guard inside of the connector.



Splicing in the IC and FP relay box. Just matching all the wires from the 3s plug. Got a little to eager and didn't let the joint cool down before I moved the heatshrink over, and it shrunk before I could get it over..but..only you guys will see that wink.gif



Now connecting the 3 left over lines to the body harness directly due to no pin location.



Almost there for the relay box side of things. Harness just needs wrapping



And wrap it up. Mount obviously when rad is installed.



Still need to figure out where those last 4 wires go. Fairly certain they go directly to the IC and FP or something or other. I just have to look it up.

I did run into a snag when dealing with the 3 left over wires they are typically spliced in.

2 of the 3 made sense, and went directly with Bsamps guide, but I had 1 left over that wasn't on the 6 outer pins. In his guide was white/black stripe. Mine was black/white stripe, but also the only wire left. I checked the schematic and it does appear to be a relay leg to another leg, so I spliced that one in just like his white/black one. If anything, its just the IC relay, so if that doesn't work, I know where the problem is lol.

So several more wires to figure out and should be smooth sailing from here.

Edit:

And looking at my own pictures...I splice in the black\white w grey dots to a white\black, when coming out the plug itself is the black\white w grey dots. Now I have to figure out what all that is, cause I think its wrong the way I have it.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 8, 2016 - 1:59 PM
Okay yea I messed that 1 line up...



Thats the line I took, and spliced into this....



So gunna need to figure this one out..
Pretty positive I have the wiring right now. I did mess up and had to go back and fix 1 line, and create the connections for the IC water pump.



New lines for the IC pump, and fixing the black/white white/black wire that I messed up. It comes from the pump itself instead of directly from the relay box. Go Go schematics.



I do not have the connector for the IC pump itself, so I'm going to cut is back, and use butt splice to put it in place. Each line to be weather resistant labeled.



Final off the 2 harnesses I needed to make. Technically it should just be 1 with a pigtail, but I forgot about that and just made it longer coming from the EA1 instead of running it up the loom. I'll ziptie the 2 together once I figure placement.



All buttoned up



Now there were 2 lines that concerned me.

1 was pin 13 on EA1 Green - Looked it up and it turned out to be for ABS, since I do not have such, I just tied if off.

The 2nd line that bothered me is one going to the IC pump. The schematics say it should be GR-B on pin 17 of EA1 - Mine was GR-R. I looked through the schematics, and there is no other GR-R line that goes to the EA1, and I straight swapped the wires from the 3s plug, so not sure where that mix up came into play...another revision I dunno...but, its on the right pin on the connector, so I just moved forward with it.

Just checked a moment ago on that wire in question, and it does ring out at the ECU side where it should, and the color carries all the way there. So I guess its either an error in the manual, or just a later revision or something. /shrug, all should be fine.

This post has been edited by rave2n: Jan 9, 2016 - 11:36 AM