As a fellow 6GC owner living in Chicago wanting to do a swap... How are you going to get around emissions?

>

No real update unfortunately since school keeps me pretty busy. I'm getting a nice fat tax return though, and spring break starts next week. So it wont be much longer before I have the short block finished. at which point I'll post an update that even photobucket will notice. Speaking of buckets, the ones you sent me worked perfectly; so thanks again


>

I think your best bet would be to buy a celica that is 1995 or older

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jan 14, 2013 - 7:20 PM

Haha I guess I'm no longer on the fence about going to the meet lol. I really want to know! I want to throw a 2GR in mine sooo bad.

You still plan on going AWD after a little while correct? And there is modification required for that, correct? Still cant wait to see this Celica at a Midwest Meet!

>

good, these midwest meets need to keep growing. And a 2gr sounds pretty awesome

>

Sure am. The extent of the modification is limited to constructing custom subframe mounts, since the rear usdm floorpan is different from that of an actual gt4. Its nothing crazy though.

Awesome.

I'm glad the buckets worked out for you I can't wait to see this thing fired up!

Hello everyone,

Many interesting and time consuming things have been keeping me busy the last few months so unfortunately there hasn't been too much progress on the rebuild. Nevertheless it is now spring break, and I have a little spare cash to burn. So I have been ordering parts and finally tore into the bottom end. Observe:



the Toyota fipg stuff is awesome at sealing and preventing leaks. But damn does it fight you when you're trying to take everything apart



I try to make a habit of threading bolts right back into their respective parts to avoid confusion later, which is the case with this upper oil pan



After a few hours I had my work bench setup for the next round of rebuilding, complete with a new template to keep me organized and a number of parts ready for a round of cleaning.



Its usually a good idea to put cuts of hose on the rod bolts to prevent them from scratching the cylinder walls during removal



Having done that I was happy to see the cylinder walls were in really good condition. No scuffs, scratches, or cracks anywhere Maybe this motor wasn't so badly abused after all.



the rod bearings on the other hand show a little wear from what can only be a lot of cold starts. Nothing to be alarmed about though, and there were no signs of oil starvation. I'm assuming these are multi-layer bearings from the way the wear pattern looks



The block looks relatively clean on the inside, which is surprising considering the cylinder head was absolutely filthy.



Thankfully all of the crank journals look in good shape, but I'm still going to get them polished in preparation for a new set of bearings

Overall these photos don't depict much progress, but the fact of the matter is that the bottom end is much simpler compared to the cylinder head. Way fewer parts (most of which have convenient stampings), and way fewer surfaces to tolerance. Therefore things should progress at a much quicker pace compared to before (money permitting)

In the coming weeks I plan to get the block hot tanked, crank polished, cylinders honed, and a number of replacement parts in. So a short block should be complete by mid May, at which point I'll be focusing my attention on all of the ancillary assemblies. The ultimate goal being to have a long block complete by mid July.

This post has been edited by enderswift: Dec 22, 2012 - 10:06 AM

looks good. can't wait to see it finished.

I love the wrinkle paint job on that valve cover! Wish you had posted this thread in Forced Induction! You've been hiding!

>

thanks bud, I was going for more of an oem look and I'm glad it turned out alright. I really suck at painting haha

small update:




Got some parts in. Oil pump, water pump, belt tensioner, the enormous thermostat, pcv valve, and some other stuff. Its a funny feeling when you spend $400 dollars but the package is really small haha. Money well spent though and I really cant say enough good things about Lithia Toyota, amazing customer service.

All I have left to buy is the bearings and rings. Everything else is ready

Hurry up! Lol.

Necesito update sir.

>

Oh believe me, no one wants to see updates to this thing more than I do haha, but the last few weeks at school have been absolute insanity. The only things I've done are limited to a few minor refurbishings that aren't even worth talking about. I'm graduating so there will be many updates when I start working.

oh yea the two idler bearings came in for only $30, so thanks for letting me know about B&D

This post has been edited by enderswift: Apr 27, 2012 - 11:05 PM

Hey guys,

long time no update. Things have been pretty hectic: I've graduated, I've started a career, and I had to see some other projects through. Namely this:

Everything is done now. So expect big updates soon because I finally have a steady income and free time woooo!

This post has been edited by enderswift: Oct 3, 2012 - 12:30 PM

can't wait for updates!

>

Are you in the FSAE?

You have two weeks to get this engine in your car and come to the meet. That is all.

>

^this

>

yes, along with 5 other guys from my school. With such a small team it was a wild ride to get the car done in time for competition. Lots of long nights... so there wasn't much room for the celi unfortunately


>

After what I just went through with the formula car, 2 weeks is a luxurious amount of time haha. The problem is I'm waiting on parts from the UK. . which so far have been taking forever to arrive. So I cant make any promises. Plus I refuse to rush anything, I want to maintain a high level of quality during this build.

please put the ban hammer away haha

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 4, 2012 - 2:19 PM

Hello 6gc,

it's time for a long overdue rebuild update. I've spent the past few days taking care of a lot of the tedious but important aspects of the rebuild, mainly cleaning, logistics, and organizing/cataloging. Nevertheless, there is a bunch to show and I feel that the hard part is almost behind me.

my overall goal was to prepare the bottom end for tolerancing and machining, so the first step was to remove all of the extra bits from the block and clean them up. This included the oil cooler, oil pans, and everything else not associated with the rotating assembly. Heres a photo of the oil pans after cleaning:



These pans were covered in a really stubborn layer of pure crap, so I had to bust out the simple green and wage total war. It wasn't a fun process, but I think the results were well worth the effort.

From there I had to deal with the old silicone sealant. Most people recommend using a razor blade to scrap it off, but I ended up nicking the surface without making much progress. So I decided to try out an 80 grit bristle brush. 3m makes these things and they are apparently fantastic at cleaning aluminum mating surfaces without damage:



And the results:



you really can't ask for a better finish than that. I highly recommend this to anyone working on something similar. To finish things off I put the proper bolts into the pans and secured them with twist ties so installation will be easy in the future.


Next I moved on to preparing a portion of the rotating assembly for storage until I was ready to start tolerancing. This consisted of taking the piston-rod assemblies apart and cleaning each part individually. The first thing to do is to remove the c clips that hold the wrist pin from moving axially. Easier said than done, my first attempts sent the clips flying and it was miracle that I found them. For future reference I suggest doing this with your hands inside of a box, that way the clips will just bounce around the box instead of getting lost. With the clips removed I was expecting a rough time because the factory manual insists on heating everything in a tank before pressing out the wrist pins, but I was able to just push them out with my thumb. I'm not sure if that's because it was a hot day or if I need to replace the rod bushings, I guess I'll find out soon enough.

The pistons were cleaned in a vat of simple green extreme and properly labeled before being placed into a corresponding bag. I'm not taking any chances with mixing these parts up, especially since the piston and wrists come as matched sets!



The connecting rods were just cleaned in regular simple green before being labeled as well. Here's the end result of my work:



By this point the block was almost bare and all I had to do was remove the crankshaft and the pair of pumps. I started with the oil pump and carefully removed one bolt at a time (cleaning each one) and transferring it to a corresponding location on the new pump. I then transferred over the timing gear and installed a new koyo bearing. The same was done for the water pump. I also made sure to keep the old gaskets so it will be easy to match new ones in the future:

Here is the new oil pump with everything moved over:




Having done all of this I was able to finally remove the crankshaft and place it in a tub to soak along with the rear main housing:



A quick soak later and the crankshaft was looking pretty good:



unfortunately all is not well with the crank. After cleaning I noticed that the counterweights around the #4 rod journal had some discoloration:



uh oh. The first thing that came to my mind was that I had an overheated crank. But things just didn't add up.

why is it only on the counterweight and not the journal itself?
why is it only one journal?
why aren't the bearing destroyed?
why isn't the connecting rod discolored too?
why is this happening to me?

Here are more photos to show what I mean:

#4 connecting rod, no discoloration or damage of any kind (I don't know why it came out brown in the photo, its actually cast grey after being cleaned.. I guess htc can only do so much with a phone camera):


#4 rod bearings (also came out brown in the photo). The bearings look like what you'd expect, no pitting or scoring and only light wear through two layers:


There is also discoloration around main #5 right next to the rod journal. After doing some research I found out that certain manufacturers do what's called induction heat treating. It is meant to strengthen certain points of a crankshaft and would explain what I'm seeing. The reason that its only on rod journal 4 and main 5 is because those are the two closest points to the output shaft and clutch, and therefore see the most load (or perhaps they are just furthers from the pump). It would also explain why there's no damage on anything else, not even the bearings, which would go out long before the crank discolored like that. Heres a video of the induction hardening process:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52zsbqVgyP4

I'm basing my bearing assessment on a number of sources, but just to illustrate my point here's a website that shows a number of damaged bearings and their cause:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/51...ngs_go_bad.aspx

My bearings don't match any of those and instead look like normal wear from a number of other engines I've seen. So this is a real mystery to me at the moment.

I would really hope that the crank came like this from the factory but the thing is, I feel I would have heard about induction hardening on 3s cranks by now. Maybe this is a late-model 3s feature? If anyone can chime in I would appreciate it. For now I'm going to tolerance the absolute crap out of this crank checking everything from the roundness of the journals to the runout of each main. I'm also going to talk with my machine shop to get their opinion. Right now I feel the crank is fine, but I want to make absolutely sure.

Anyway, that's where I stand at the moment. I'm going to hold off on ordering new bearings until I find out what the situation with the crank is. In the mean time I'm going to send the block to my machinist and work on some side stuff

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 4, 2012 - 3:32 PM

I just cant wait for a LSD burnout video.

dont be too concerned with the crankshaft. you can have it inspected at a machine shop if you are concerned. you are doing a good build. keep it up

>

If you want, while I've got my 3S crankshaft out of the engine I can compare counter weights just for notes sake.

LMK

>


Oh - and uh, great work on YOUR project too!

KAOS, yes please take a look at your crank for me, it'll be interesting to see if you have the same colors on yours.

>

you and me both!

>

I cant not be concerned lol. I've invested so much money and effort that I have to be absolutely sure about the parts I'm using, especially something as important as a crank. Thanks for the vote of confidence though, and I'm definitely going to visit my machine shop soon

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jul 5, 2012 - 6:38 PM

Well there's only one thing you can do now.

LIGHTWEIGHT FORGED INTERNALS!!!

>

^^^THIS. Most Definitely.

>

As it turns out - VERY similar... I didn't notice before, thanks for pointing it out.

You're the man KAOS! thanks for the pics, it makes me feel confident that these cranks are factory induction hardened at the rear main.

Whew

>

must.... resist... urge... to .. punish bank account