wow that flaring tool is awesome. does it take alot of force to actually use it?

Awesome progress. Good for you Tom. What else is needed to get this bad boy on four wheels and doing madsicktyte drifts?

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jun 27, 2010 - 8:55 PM

doesn't take to much force to actually flare it. It did the job pretty good i must say myself.

A wiring harness which should be soon than it will run.

Its running! It boosts great and pulls hard. Although it idles a bit rough, and studders when staying steady on the gas. I think its something to do with the bov not sure. The icm might need a cleaning too not sure about that either. Besides those problems it runs great.

Congrats!

That bov MUST be recirculated as it stays open during idle and cruise situations, bypassing the AFM and causing a lot of issues.
They have an anti stall kit to help with this, but you really should recirculate it for best performance.

>

I dunno if i should recirculate it before or after the afm. I feel stupid for not thinking about that..

I suppose i could try to some how route it in with one of the vents that goto the valve cover that goto the intake piping.

recirculate after the AFM, if you recirculated before, the AFM will be reading the same " air " twice, and thus causing undesire side effects. once the air goes through the AFM once, it's accounted for, so recirculated after and things will be fine, since you are venting it, it's missing that air and thus causing your describved issues.

This post has been edited by Culpable04: Jul 12, 2010 - 8:01 AM

after recirculating the the bov past the afm the car runs smooth now. Overall i'm very pleased with only doing the swap for so cheaply.

The car pulls hard even only boosting at 9 psi. I have a small boost leak some where thats why i think it wont get up to 12psi.

>

Man, I am glad you got her running... this guy in chicago has a 1mz I can buy for 150 bucks, he just wants it out of his garage. It needed a timing belt replaced and he pulled it and winded up getting another motor for cheap.... What you think?

I say you go for it man. Also you think you gonna try to make it to the other mini midwest meet saturday?

I can't wait to see this thing at the meet!

Not that to many people care, but my car has been running great since day one of the start up. I have had no problems what so ever, except the coolant temp. I have the stock 195 temp stat. in it right now. But the radiator fans are always on now after the swap. Has anyone had any problems with them staying on at all times? Maybe a coolant temp sensor being bad just giving the fans the signal to be on even when the car is first started?

are you using an ST radiator or GT radiator ?
also, is the AC clutch switch plugged in ?

weird double post

This post has been edited by DEATH: Oct 6, 2010 - 9:31 AM

I run both of my fans fulltime cause it helps to evacuate heat from the engine bay on my 2nd gen RC [I also have several spare fans in my garage ]. But you don't have to. If it's doing it and you can't figure out why - make sure the connection on the A/C line is hooked up - this will cause them to run constant when the key is in if not.
Hope this helps - if you have any other questions hit me up cause I've been all over that part of my swap recently

This post has been edited by DEATH: Oct 6, 2010 - 9:32 AM

Alright, i'll look up the wiring diagram so i can either put a resister in the a/c plug. Since i don't have a/c in my car. I'm using the gt radiator. The new gt radiator i got seems to be quite thicker than other stock gt radiators i've seen.

Death have you noticed any difference in engine bay/coolant temps when the fans are on full time vs. only at like 215 degrees?

since you have the GT rad you have the temp sensor plugged in the bottom right ?

and the AC plug/switch I'm talking about is near the firewall, near the wire harness boot, part of the chasis wiring, it doesn't matter if you have AC or not.

>
I haven't taken a thermometer to it or anything but just from knowing my car and it's average temps by feel and also the noticeable difference in heat haze I can see evacuating thru the large vent in my GT4 hood.
Batman's explanation was much better worded than mine.

for some reason with the ST's your fans will come on when you turn the key on/off....there is a way around it but it hasnt really bothered me much since the swap. It would be nice if they came on when the engine got to a certain temp. but honestly it helps keep it cool up untill it shuts off.

You can also look into a low temp. thermostat. I have a Gates 160* low temp thermostat that i am running and really like it. Next is a trans and oil cooler set-up.

BTW the swap is comming along great man, any recent pictures of it?

This post has been edited by 95st-celica: Nov 12, 2010 - 10:20 PM

i actually have no recent pictures of the swap actually done. I should probably get on that before i put it away for the winter.

So guys i told myself after the swap i wont spend anymore money on my car... That was a joke. I just purchased a m-factory lsd and will be putting it in my trans within the next few weeks. I am also rebuilding the trans too. I will be taking many pictures to show you guys and tell you if its a easy swap in and out of the diff.

Keep you guys posted

I got a present today...

NICE! Can't wait to see how much better it feels after you install that.

nice work! let's see some more recent pics!

ill take a few pictures once the blizzard is over in wisconsin...

bad news, the lsd i got is the wrong one. I called the guys at mfactory and they wanted me to measure the ID of the final drive gear and the OD of the diff they sent me. Completely off. He says i have the final drive for a c56 trans which doesn't make sense i have a s54 trans bolted up to my 3s. So i guess i'm SOL on the diff. Even though on the website it clearly states LSD for 3s-ge/5s-fe s-series trans.....

I have plenty of pictures to upload tomorrow off the trans disassemble and gears and other goodies.

So guys I have my s54 gt trans torn all apart. Pictures speak louder than words...


All torn apart.




Out put shaft.


Diff


Starting to get a little confusing

Mfactory sent me the wrong diff.

Final drive gear is to big for the LSD. Talked to the company, they said i had a c56 ring gear. Even though i have a s54? I didn't bother to deal with it and just sent the diff back and got my refund.


This is the syncro blocker ring set for 2nd gear. The two brass rings are the syncro blocker rings. That middle piece is a plate for doubling the friction surface area. You could think of this set up as a twin disk clutch set up. When you shift from 1st to 2nd you gotta slow down 2nd gear pretty quick so the syncro hub can mesh into 2nd gear's dog teeth. I ordered parts off a old mr2 topic with part numbers for the s54. Half of them were wrong.


1st gear and syncro blocker ring


output shaft.


3rd gear and syncro blocker ring. It wouldn't be a bad idea for me to replace 3rd gear but toyota said its on national back order. It could take one week or a month....


4th gear n syncro

Painting the tranny case



Looks new!

Once i am 100% all the parts i have will work i will post all the part numbers up with pictures to match them so if you guys feel like rebuilding yours, you got the right numbers.

It sucks that the LSD won't work but atleast i will have a fresh rebuilt transmission.

def keepin a close eye on this! very interested in a LSD s54. if it works out of corse.

when u put it back, post pics, as id like to take apart my beams tranny..

I plan on it. Cause I have not seen a full step by step assembly with pictures online