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Topic #70176 120 posts Started by captb
b1gr3d
#61
>
QUOTE (captb @ Jan 21, 2010 - 6:08 PM) *
>thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.

and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything? biggrin.gif

3m fusor- i have used it om bedside and roof skins. GM uses something similar on some panels from the factory and they even used something similar on "musclecar" on spike tv for an old mustang roof skin. i think it runs $50 a tube but its well worth it and you won't use much. OR you could sell it to me...

As far as the doors go - if there is a gap you need to hammer and dolly the skin as close to the inner door as possible then seam seal it. the seam seal it just acts a a seal, not a bonder. again your other doors are salvagable and it sounds like you will do less work with them then the parts doors
if you have a welder just weld the holes...you wont be "cutting corners" by using fiberglass....you will be doing it WRONG.
the windows you need to use 3m windshiled urethane. i used 1 tube for both quarter glass'
Coming in 2010full paintjob - new wheels - modified body - new interior - engine build- marriage
davidfang
#62
>
QUOTE (b1gr3d @ Jan 22, 2010 - 12:00 PM) *
>>
QUOTE (captb @ Jan 21, 2010 - 6:08 PM) *
>thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.

and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything? biggrin.gif

3m fusor- i have used it om bedside and roof skins. GM uses something similar on some panels from the factory and they even used something similar on "musclecar" on spike tv for an old mustang roof skin. i think it runs $50 a tube but its well worth it and you won't use much. OR you could sell it to me...

As far as the doors go - if there is a gap you need to hammer and dolly the skin as close to the inner door as possible then seam seal it. the seam seal it just acts a a seal, not a bonder. again your other doors are salvagable and it sounds like you will do less work with them then the parts doors
if you have a welder just weld the holes...you wont be "cutting corners" by using fiberglass....you will be doing it WRONG.
the windows you need to use 3m windshiled urethane. i used 1 tube for both quarter glass'

k, ill try to make a trip down there if i find time tomorrow. any advice as to the proper way of taking it out though? my instincts tell me to pry carefully but im pretty sure the outcome would be the same. i noticed that there is alot of sealant holding that window inplace, i think the best way would probably to heat the glue from inside the car until you can easily pry but i dont have a heat gun
captb
#63
>
QUOTE (b1gr3d @ Jan 22, 2010 - 12:00 PM) *
>3m fusor- i have used it om bedside and roof skins. GM uses something similar on some panels from the factory and they even used something similar on "musclecar" on spike tv for an old mustang roof skin. i think it runs $50 a tube but its well worth it and you won't use much. OR you could sell it to me...

As far as the doors go - if there is a gap you need to hammer and dolly the skin as close to the inner door as possible then seam seal it. the seam seal it just acts a a seal, not a bonder. again your other doors are salvagable and it sounds like you will do less work with them then the parts doors
if you have a welder just weld the holes...you wont be "cutting corners" by using fiberglass....you will be doing it WRONG.
the windows you need to use 3m windshiled urethane. i used 1 tube for both quarter glass'


the 3m fusor or the toms lip. tongue.gif
b1gr3d
#64
Lol. That lip. Is isn't it for preface lift?
Coming in 2010full paintjob - new wheels - modified body - new interior - engine build- marriage
captb
#65
>
QUOTE (b1gr3d @ Jan 22, 2010 - 6:31 PM) *
>Lol. That lip. Is isn't it for preface lift?


its for facelifted coupes/hatches but will fit a preface just fine.
captb
#68
i dont get to work on her much but this is how she sits. and my quarters should come any day now.




toms lip, and preface fogs... biggrin.gif

still looking for side.

This post has been edited by captb: Mar 25, 2010 - 8:06 PM
SwissFerdi
#69
Props on being innovative enough to mold a lip, major props. Very nice man.
'97 ST\ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+[sold 10/18]'93 MX-5LE
captb
#70
i seriously did my homework on plastic welding. im probably an expert by now. lol.
captb
#71
how bout some input. do you think it needs a grill/mesh?
808celica
#72
you might wanna reconsider the front markers. Its mandatory in Hawaii to have reflectors up on the front on the car. Most places wont pass you for saftey, but I got places that pass my car wink.gif

thumbsup.gif
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
captb
#73
>
QUOTE (808celica @ Mar 25, 2010 - 8:49 PM) *
>you might wanna reconsider the front markers. Its mandatory in Hawaii to have reflectors up on the front on the car. Most places wont pass you for saftey, but I got places that pass my car wink.gif

thumbsup.gif


are you talking about the turn markers or side markers? in the pic the turns are actually dangling in the back of the bumper. i really hope ur not talking about the side markers cus i really like the jdm look.

and how in the world do you not get in trouble for clear lens with white bulbs.
808celica
#74
turn signals and front marker/sidemarkers are different wink.gif
I know you seen my car and im running clear turns and markers **knock on wood** I just chose my roads and time of day travel very very carfully thumbsup.gif

Hawaii Law states you must have a reflective marker both in front and back, the farthest point forward and to the back for safety reasons. To me and You I really hope if in any case the Cop at the time "sees" your turns for both signals and reflective markers biggrin.gif
I don't normally drive fast, but when I do its on a curvy section of this island
captb
#75
>
QUOTE (808celica @ Mar 26, 2010 - 1:37 AM) *
>turn signals and front marker/sidemarkers are different wink.gif
I know you seen my car and im running clear turns and markers **knock on wood** I just chose my roads and time of day travel very very carfully thumbsup.gif

Hawaii Law states you must have a reflective marker both in front and back, the farthest point forward and to the back for safety reasons. To me and You I really hope if in any case the Cop at the time "sees" your turns for both signals and reflective markers biggrin.gif


i got a little worried so i read up a bit. and i think im ok. it says that indicators have to be not less than 15in and not more than 60in from the front biggrin.gif. and ya, im with you on hoping they see the turns as reflective markers(thats the closest to the front as you can get smile.gif) i think ill run amber sides to make it more belivable... for now. hehe. my only concern now is that with this setup the indicators are always lit. you think id get into any trouble with this?
captb
#76
ok, the indicator problem is solved now back to body work.

Question:
i have seen alot of people remove dents and apply bondo but i noticed that alot of people featheredge the bondo onto the paint. then they paint the entire piece over it. from what i understood, you have to at least lightly sand the existing paint before applying a new coat. wont the clear coat keep the paint from getting a good bond?

follow-up to this question is when im featheredging the bondo to existing paint, the clear coat tends to peel almost as if it were a plastic wrap. and even when i apply primer it is very noticeable where the clear stops and starts. i cant seem to featheredge the clear. is the best way to sand the entire car till the clear is removed? or do as i have seen some due and apply paint remover and try my best to get it to bare metal? i dont know if this will affect the answer but when i see the paint it seems as if it were applied as a single thick layer more susceptable to chipping.

i have to drive this car even as im doing the bodywork. is it alright that i expose the bondo to the elements for days even weeks(ex. rain) or should i apply a thin coat of primer to any unfinished surface and sand it down when i have the time to work on it again?

last question, im also installing a bodykit. should i use a sealer tape(kinda like caulking) similar to the oem kits on the corollas? and if i should, i have only seen clear and black being sold, im thinking black would look best on a red car, any suggestions?

sorry again for all the questions, im kinda a perfectionist and i need help nearly everystep of the way to make sure it turns out perfect.
b1gr3d
#77
I will get more in depth later buy in short- sounds like your car has been painted before and basically the whole car will need o be sanded down. I would not sugges stripper unless you can take the car apart becuase it will eat the paint off of anything. I the body filler does not feather as you are booking it then the dent is bigger than you thought or you didn't put enough on
Coming in 2010full paintjob - new wheels - modified body - new interior - engine build- marriage
captb
#78
Thanks. id appreciate if you could clarify later. and you are correct, i can tell it has been painted base and clear over the oem paint without primer. as for the featheredging, the body filler is fine the problem is when im trying to featheredge of the existing paint. i can show you a picture of what im talking about but the clear seems to either flake off or acts like a saran wrap type of material. so you can obviously see where i have fixed a dent.

>
QUOTE (b1gr3d @ Apr 15, 2010 - 12:00 PM) *
>I will get more in depth later buy in short- sounds like your car has been painted before and basically the whole car will need o be sanded down. I would not sugges stripper unless you can take the car apart becuase it will eat the paint off of anything. I the body filler does not feather as you are booking it then the dent is bigger than you thought or you didn't put enough on

b1gr3d
#79
I will get more in depth later but in short- sounds like your car has been painted before and basically the whole car will need o be sanded down. I would not sugges stripper unless you can take the car apart becuase it will eat the paint off of anything. I the body filler does not feather as you are booking it then the dent is bigger than you thought or you didn't put enough on

I will get more in depth later but in short- sounds like your car has been painted before and basically the whole car will need o be sanded down. I would not sugges stripper unless you can take the car apart becuase it will eat the paint off of anything. I the body filler does not feather as you are booking it then the dent is bigger than you thought or you didn't put enough on
Coming in 2010full paintjob - new wheels - modified body - new interior - engine build- marriage
captb
#80
looky what i did today.. biggrin.gif



and yes.. that is coolant on the floor, my new problem. frown.gif

This post has been edited by captb: May 27, 2010 - 12:02 AM
b1gr3d
#81
>
QUOTE (captb @ Jan 21, 2010 - 6:08 PM) *
>thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.

and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything? biggrin.gif

3m fusor- i have used it om bedside and roof skins. GM uses something similar on some panels from the factory and they even used something similar on "musclecar" on spike tv for an old mustang roof skin. i think it runs $50 a tube but its well worth it and you won't use much. OR you could sell it to me...

As far as the doors go - if there is a gap you need to hammer and dolly the skin as close to the inner door as possible then seam seal it. the seam seal it just acts a a seal, not a bonder. again your other doors are salvagable and it sounds like you will do less work with them then the parts doors
if you have a welder just weld the holes...you wont be "cutting corners" by using fiberglass....you will be doing it WRONG.
the windows you need to use 3m windshiled urethane. i used 1 tube for both quarter glass'
Coming in 2010full paintjob - new wheels - modified body - new interior - engine build- marriage
davidfang
#82
>
QUOTE (b1gr3d @ Jan 22, 2010 - 12:00 PM) *
>>
QUOTE (captb @ Jan 21, 2010 - 6:08 PM) *
>thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.

and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything? biggrin.gif

3m fusor- i have used it om bedside and roof skins. GM uses something similar on some panels from the factory and they even used something similar on "musclecar" on spike tv for an old mustang roof skin. i think it runs $50 a tube but its well worth it and you won't use much. OR you could sell it to me...

As far as the doors go - if there is a gap you need to hammer and dolly the skin as close to the inner door as possible then seam seal it. the seam seal it just acts a a seal, not a bonder. again your other doors are salvagable and it sounds like you will do less work with them then the parts doors
if you have a welder just weld the holes...you wont be "cutting corners" by using fiberglass....you will be doing it WRONG.
the windows you need to use 3m windshiled urethane. i used 1 tube for both quarter glass'

k, ill try to make a trip down there if i find time tomorrow. any advice as to the proper way of taking it out though? my instincts tell me to pry carefully but im pretty sure the outcome would be the same. i noticed that there is alot of sealant holding that window inplace, i think the best way would probably to heat the glue from inside the car until you can easily pry but i dont have a heat gun
captb
#83
>
QUOTE (b1gr3d @ Jan 22, 2010 - 12:00 PM) *
>3m fusor- i have used it om bedside and roof skins. GM uses something similar on some panels from the factory and they even used something similar on "musclecar" on spike tv for an old mustang roof skin. i think it runs $50 a tube but its well worth it and you won't use much. OR you could sell it to me...

As far as the doors go - if there is a gap you need to hammer and dolly the skin as close to the inner door as possible then seam seal it. the seam seal it just acts a a seal, not a bonder. again your other doors are salvagable and it sounds like you will do less work with them then the parts doors
if you have a welder just weld the holes...you wont be "cutting corners" by using fiberglass....you will be doing it WRONG.
the windows you need to use 3m windshiled urethane. i used 1 tube for both quarter glass'


the 3m fusor or the toms lip. tongue.gif
b1gr3d
#84
Lol. That lip. Is isn't it for preface lift?
Coming in 2010full paintjob - new wheels - modified body - new interior - engine build- marriage
captb
#85
>
QUOTE (b1gr3d @ Jan 22, 2010 - 6:31 PM) *
>Lol. That lip. Is isn't it for preface lift?


its for facelifted coupes/hatches but will fit a preface just fine.
captb
#88
i dont get to work on her much but this is how she sits. and my quarters should come any day now.




toms lip, and preface fogs... biggrin.gif

still looking for side.

This post has been edited by captb: Mar 25, 2010 - 8:06 PM
SwissFerdi
#89
Props on being innovative enough to mold a lip, major props. Very nice man.
'97 ST\ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+[sold 10/18]'93 MX-5LE
captb
#90
i seriously did my homework on plastic welding. im probably an expert by now. lol.
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