its cool we'll be a Kbay base

Bump... Please read edited first post.

i recently just got a toms lip, repaired it and painted it, it ran me around 350$. I bought it for 160$, bought some urethane bumper repair for about 30$. Then took it to a local auto body shop and had it painted for 180$.

End Result Tom's Lip

Personally I wouldn't buy a toms lip in 2 pieces, the work that you would have to put in to make that look like 1 piece again is just too much work. Just wait that's what I did. Just post WTB's on the buying forum on here and im sure soon someone will jump on it.

This post has been edited by freddy121389: Nov 26, 2009 - 1:26 PM

200 shipped for a cut toms?? hmm where you gonna bring it, to get re-fiberglassed??

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Yup. $200 shipped to hawaii. You think i can handle it on my own?

And freddy, im more worried about cost rather than time. How long did it take you to repair yours? i mean, were you able to repair it in one day and prep it on the second day? And how did it turn out in the end, before you took it to the shop for paint? was it decent looking?

Pls let me know guys. i have to say yes or no in 24hrs. Thanks again.

i posted a pic, you do not want to use bondo or fiberglass fixer, considering its urethane. Bondo won't last and isn't very flexible. I went to a local paint store here called redshaw and i told them what i needed and they sold me a caulking like tube filled with urethane bumper fixer but that was only because of cracks. With it split in half you will have to plastic weld it and it won't look the same or hold that well considering plastic welding isn't good either but it's the only way to fix it. Nothing else would hold it. IMHO I wouldn't buy it in two pieces way to much work and you'll find that nothing will hold it together considering its directly in the middle and having the most stress it could have on either side. It'll slowly crack and wear over time. You need it to be flexible.

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wouldnt the middle receive the least deflection and stress as it is sitting on the bumper?

I really appreciate the advice. im just a little concerned because im almost certain i cant get the lip as one piece because of shipping to hawaii. and i really want a tom's lip.

if you buy from jdm-pro-tokyo on ebay, he will ship it in one piece and through normal postal services.. not sure how he does it but that's how i got mine. he had a couple a little while ago but he doesn't seem to have any at the moment.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Nov 27, 2009 - 1:36 AM

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Thanks for the heads up. he actually has one on sale but its a bit on the pricey side. how much did you pay for yours or how much do you think its worth? and i guess i will have to wait a little longer and keep an eye out for an uncut one. let me know if you see anything.

k, i've been really busy with school so havent gotten much done. i got replacement doors in my garage and will have alot more time to dedicate on the car during winter break. anyways, i wanted to get comments and suggestions on my plans. so with the extra door i will be cutting out small pieces to weld to cover the spoiler holes and antenna i will be deleting but was wondering if the same process will work for the rust bubble.

i am planning to cut around the rust bubble and use a portion of the door to weld on. so my question is how practical will this be? im not sure what it will look like with the trim removed and was questioning if i would have access to reaching under the metal. meaning, if i couldnt reach under the newly welded piece then it would be just the plain metal, and again more suseptable to rust. am i correct?

also, does anyone know how to remove the side rear window trim. i think its glued on but if i pry, i might destroy it and if i heat it then id most likely warp it. any suggestions on removing it?

edit

This post has been edited by captb: Jan 19, 2010 - 12:04 AM

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everytime i find an item i want, that actually has free shipping (not that 48 states only crap) it feels as if i just won a battle or something. and i noticed that though shipping for us is high from the mainland, we actually get cheaper rates from japan and hongkong. if i could only read japanese and buy from there sites then everything i own would be jdm.

So heres the update, finally found time to work on the car and attempted to remove the bubble rust on the rear quarter window. and well, pictures are worth a thousand words.




For the record, you CANT just pry out the rear quarter window. anyways, i am in need of advice to remove, install and locate a replacement window. if you have any experience or have done something like this before, please let me know.
thanks.

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I'm very sorry...but the way you put the caption just made me .
Anyway, hope you find what you're looking for. I saw your WTB, and I bet some junkyards in your area might have some coupes. Much luck.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jan 19, 2010 - 12:17 AM

^Thanks.

wouldnt the coupes and the hatches have the same rear quarter windows? can someone confirm?

ya, im gonna have to check the junkyards again but last time i checked i got zip (was looking for a bumper bout a month ago). So what exactly is the proper way to remove the window? i dont want to go to the junkyard and the exact same thing happen. thatd be an epic fail.

No, I'm 99% sure they do not. The rear end of the hatch window tapers off more, since the roofline is different.

thanks, ill modify my wtb to reflect a coupe.

danggg...that sucks,you need to start sanding!!!hahaha subscribed!

Joel,

there's a beat down coupe at the ABC junkyard in Pearlcity. it's black and pretty gutted go check it out for your window.

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Thanks, do you know there number? also, do they take the part off for you or do you take it off yourself?

i would take it off myself. you go in, no tools yet, find the car and what you want. Then go back in with tools get the part and go to where the guys at and tell them $40 for this window glass. Dont budge on the price I really hate those guys.

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k, ill try to make a trip down there if i find time tomorrow. any advice as to the proper way of taking it out though? my instincts tell me to pry carefully but im pretty sure the outcome would be the same. i noticed that there is alot of sealant holding that window inplace, i think the best way would probably to heat the glue from inside the car until you can easily pry but i dont have a heat gun.

Hair dryer? Worth a try. You'd have a problem getting an extension cord way out there though.

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Jan 19, 2010 - 1:41 PM

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maybe worth a try but ya the extension would be a problem.

This post has been edited by captb: Jan 19, 2010 - 4:03 PM

havent taken a window out before mabye a rubber hammer and a putty knife?? slowly work your way around or you can bring it to a shop and tell them there's a celica in at ABC junkyard with a window go get it and install for me please

i just skimmed through your thread so bear with me...
-DO NO FIBERGLASS ANYTHING BUT FIBERGLASS!
-if you get a toms lip then it will need to be plastic welded or bonded with a 2 part epoxy like said before.

-http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...sa%3DX%26um%3D1

you need the cold knife and the long knife to do it.

1. take out your interior trim
2.get inside and u will see the pinch weld that the glass is glued to
3.take the cold knife with a 90 degree bend blade shove it into the urethane and pull (careful NOT to put too much stress on the glass or you will have to buy ANOTHER)
4.you wont be able to get in super deep so you will use the long knife to cut deeper
5.push out the glass SLIGHTLY to see if and where it moves and keep cutting where it doesnt
*the corners all are crap to do so just take your time and use a heat gun to help pull the glass away from the body and cut as you are pulling

this is the best i can do without pictures....just take your time and don't cut the trim around the glass because you will reuse it

-do not fill holes with anything but the material it is..IE weld steel don't use bondo-it WILL rust again and ruin the paint job/your hard work

(1) money and quality wise would you recommend i do a maaco job or tackle painting on my own(either rent a booth or enclosed tent)?
save your money and have a local reputable shop do it. it will look better/ last longer than maaco..which in my opinion is the WORST option

(2) are there any considerations/advice for using bondo or other recommended products on non-metal surfaces such as the bumper and sideskirts? will the flexibility of the bumper be a problem?
use as little FILLER (bondo is one of many brands-its body filler) as possible...try not to use any because if you bump anything just right it will crack(give pictures for better answer)

(3) Im pretty much gonna sand/bondo the entire car and am considering a bodykit. If i were to get a cheap one off ebay, will getting the thing to fit be the same as sanding and bondoing the thing, or will i need to do some fiberglass work? Id love the gt-four look, have any recommendations on where to get bodykits for cheap?
cheap body kit= ****ty body kit. i had a cheap nvader kit and it was just over 1/16in thick. you could get lucky and it fits first try but more than likely you will have to heat it up and bend it into the correct shape...i say go OEM with lips/extensions OR get authentic stuff

(4) I am also having problems with rust below both doors. Rust cant be seen from the outside, but looking from the inside, it is definitely a problem. Would u recommend i restore it myself by cutting and welding or just replace the door entirely?
unless there are clear holes do not cut and weld.--your doors can be salvaged pretty easy. you will need to take them off and remove the rubber, use that rust buster wheel in the picture to remove the seam sealer and rust from the door...re seam seal it (seam sealer is in a tube like caulk and is applied the same way) then after it dries you can re paint it--i suggest you strip the rust/seam sealer first...prep everything else then apply seam sealer. i had to do this with both of my doors, although they were much more mild

(5) When i do paint it, would you recommend i remove different parts; hood, trunk, doors? also, would it be worth my while to remove things like the lining and windshields? id figure sanding and bondoing would be nicer with the linings removed.
how good of a job do you want? is it going to be a color change? these are things to consider as well but for the most part take it all apart-i took my mirrors apart that way there would be no red visible ever. did i have to-no. but i wanted a nice finish. if you do not take them apart then u cant prep insice the mirror and overspray will get in there and eventually peel

(6) Any videos and/or websites would you recommend i check out before i start. most of the videos i watched seemed to be from the 80's. any videos with more modern techniques? or has restoration been pretty much ageless.
basic restoration IS ageless but techniques evolve and materials do too


I hope i am helping and not scaring you away from doing this, i am just trying to make sure you don't regret starting the project and doing it to the best of your ability---mediocrity sucks

This post has been edited by b1gr3d: Jan 20, 2010 - 2:36 PM

[quote name='b1gr3d' date='Jan 20, 2010 - 2:11 PM' post='828845']
i just skimmed through your thread so bear with me...
-DO NO FIBERGLASS ANYTHING BUT FIBERGLASS!
-if you get a toms lip then it will need to be plastic welded or bonded with a 2 part epoxy like said before.

-http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...sa%3DX%26um%3D1

you need the cold knife and the long knife to do it.

1. take out your interior trim
2.get inside and u will see the pinch weld that the glass is glued to
3.take the cold knife with a 90 degree bend blade shove it into the urethane and pull (careful NOT to put too much stress on the glass or you will have to buy ANOTHER)
4.you wont be able to get in super deep so you will use the long knife to cut deeper
5.push out the glass SLIGHTLY to see if and where it moves and keep cutting where it doesnt
*the corners all are crap to do so just take your time and use a heat gun to help pull the glass away from the body and cut as you are pulling

this is the best i can do without pictures....just take your time and don't cut the trim around the glass because you will reuse it

-do not fill holes with anything but the material it is..IE weld steel don't use bondo-it WILL rust again and ruin the paint job/your hard work

(1) money and quality wise would you recommend i do a maaco job or tackle painting on my own(either rent a booth or enclosed tent)?
[] save money and have a local reputable shop do it.

(2) are there any considerations/advice for using bondo or other recommended products on non-metal surfaces such as the bumper and sideskirts? will the flexibility of the bumper be a problem?
bondo is one of many brands-its body filler if you bump anything it will fix
(3) Im pretty much gonna sand/bondo the entire car and am considering a bodykit. If i were to get a cheap one off ebay, will getting the thing to fit be the same as sanding and bondoing the thing,Id love the gt-four look, have any recommendations on where to get bodykits for cheap?
[b]cheap body kit= ***ty body kit. i had a cheap nvader kit and it was just over 1/16in thick. you could get lucky and it fits first try but more than likely you will have to heat it up and bend it into the correct shape...i say go OEM with lips
(4) I am also having problems with rust below both doors. Rust cant be seen from the outside, but looking from the inside, it is definitely a problem. Would u recommend i restore it myself by cutting and welding or just replace the door entirely?
unless there are clear holes do not cut and weld.--your doors can be salvaged pretty easy. i will need to take them off and remove the rubber, use that rust buster wheel in the picture to remove the seam sealer and rust from the door...re seam seal it .then after it dries i can repaint it--i suggest you strip the rust
(5) When i do paint it, would you recommend i remove different parts; hood, trunk, doors? also, would it be worth my while to remove things like the lining and windshields? id figure sanding and bondoing would be nicer with the linings removed.
these are things to consider as well but for the most part take it all apart-i took my mirrors apart that way there would be no red visible ever. did i have to-no. but i wanted a nice finish. if you do not take them apart then u cant prep insice the mirror and overspray will get in there and eventually peel
thanks, ill modify my wtb to reflect a coupe.

(6) Any videos and/or websites would you recommend i check out before i start. most of the videos i watched seemed to be from the 80's. any videos with more modern techniques? or has restoration been pretty much ageless.

.basic restoration IS ageless but techniques evolve and materials do too

Thanks, do you know there number? also, do they take the part off for you or do you take it off yourself?

thanks for all the advice b1gr3d. as far as bodykits i kinda abandoned the idea and just using oem parts. I got a tom's lip but its cut into 2 pieces but for $100 shipped i couldnt refuse. do you have any recommendations for a good 2 part bonder? and when i install the new window what is a good sealant to use or are they generally all the same?

oh, and that reminds me. i actually got replacement doors off a vert but when i was installing it the driver side door was bent a little. so i pounded it and its ready for bondo but i didnt realize while pounding it i broke the seal between the inner and outer part of the door. it looks as if the outer metal is bent inward and the inner metal sits inside it. because of the difficulty of reforming the metal, is it really that important that the inner metal is sandwiched between the parts of the outer door or is alright if I just have them touching and use the seam sealer to bond them. I can get pictures to clarify if needed.

and when patching holes and what not i figured id cut a few corners and go with fiberglass rather then welding on new pieces. but honestly i think i might abandon this project all together and get a '98-99 celica to work on. reasons? well im getting tired of looking for quality parts for a coupe and the price of facelifted bumper, side skirts, and paint would cost about the same as trading in my car. So Hawaii guys, let me know if you see anything?

>thanks your anser so clear.but it sound diffcule.clear plastic between the part it possible.it seam difficul. thanks your advice i take few day conseder project resons to 98-99celica ..ok i clean right now

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Thanks, do you know there number? also, do they take the part off for you or do you take it off yourself?