Since I thought the write up here on the site was lacking some pics, I thought I'd do my own.

First, gotta get the glass out. You need a big pot or something. I didn't have a pot big enough, but this Wok did the trick!


But, do NOT try to force the glass out. I wasn't thinking and pushed too hard....whoops. Fortunately this is hidden and not visible as installed:


It only takes about 5 minutes in boiling water to soften the sealant up enough to pry everything apart. This is what you end up with:


When you're prying the glass off, make sure you don't get any on the chrome inner housing. It screws it up. See pic:


Ok, so you've got the glass out. Time to remove the chrome housing. You can see in this pic that there's two screws holding it on.


Remove those two screws and lift up from the bottom to allow the retaining tab to slip free from the top mount shown below:


Now you're left with the outer housing and the projector assembly mounted inside:


The projector assembly is a bit more tricky to remove. There are two adjusting screws on the back but they won't free the projector assembly from the housing. The projector assembly is held in by an alignment assembly at the lower inside corner. This is screwed in to the assembly from the backside. To reach those screws, you have to back the lower outer adjusting screw out of the assembly pushing it outwards as shown below:


Then you can access the screws on the alignment assembly backside though the back of the housing:


Once those screws are backed out, you can back out both of the alignment screws from the projector assembly, freeing it from the housing. BE ADVISED that one of the screws is reverse threaded, so watch what you're doing. Once it's freed, you are left with the pic below:


In this pic you can see the alignment assembly that's left in the main housing:


Now, to take apart the projector assembly, from the backside you will see two screws.


Remove those, then remove the rear housing from the lens housing:


Don't worry about putting it back on the right way. There are alignment pins that will only let it go together one way:


Now it's time to disassemble the projector lens housing. From the front side, there are two screws located at top and bottom of the lens.


Remove those screws, then separate the lens retaining ring and the lens from the housing.


Time for the REAL work, creating and affixing the cutoff modification. We're all familiar with why it's needed and what the part is so here's what I did.

First, I created a cardboard template with the shape and size needed to do the job:


Then, I got myself some aluminum sheeting:


Cutting out a square big enough for the template, scribe the template pattern on to the piece you just cut out. HINT: Use a straight edge of the sheet for the top edge of the cutoff:


Using some aluminum shears or the like, cut your cutoff piece out:


Once the piece is cut, confirm it's the right size. trim if necessary to the right size:


Now you need to contour the piece to the shape of the housing so everything sits flush as shown below:




Now for the not so normal part. Most people have been using self tapping screws or something to affix the cutoff modification panel to the housing. I decided to go the pop rivet route because I don't want ANY chance of any kind of failure. I used a 1/8" pop rivet. I drilled the panel and housing at the same time on my drill press, so I didn't have a chance to take pics. But, as you can see below, two holes drilled allow two rivets to be put in place to retain the panel:






Pop the rivets, and I added a third to keep vibrations from causing a lighting flutter:






Now you can reassemble the projector housing in the reverse order that you took it apart. Set it aside and get ready for some tedious, time consuming, hand tiring work. Scraping the glass and housing free from all the old sealant. The glass will come free with a razor, but the housing is a different story as the majority of sealant is left in there. Fortunately, I found a trick that made it MUCH easier. A flathead screwdriver, and a small propane torch.



Doing a small section at a time, heat up the sealant, then come through with the screwdriver and scrape what you can out. With a few passes, you'll end up with the pics below, and you're ready to finish reassembling everything.




Put the projector housing back into the main housing and reattach everything starting with the alignment assembly, then move to the adjustment bolts. Once the projector is back in the housing, put the chrome inner housing back in. Now you're ready to tackle the glass.

I used ultra black RTV sealant in a caulk gun tube. This made it EXTREMELY easy to fill the recess for the glass in the housing. Just run a thick bead all the way around, press the glass back into the housing, and let it cure for 24 hours! Then put your rubber seal back on and the clips and you're done!

Questions or comments?

Addition!!!!! Side Marker Bulb housing modification for fitment to side marker harness connector.

There are three alignment tabs for the accessory bulb housing that must be trimmed off, then it will fit in the side marker light connector. Below you can see a modded and unmodded bulb housing. This is pretty simple to do, jsut take a shop knife and trim little by little until it's gone and smoothed down.







This post has been edited by Fastbird: Mar 31, 2009 - 10:11 PM

I just finished with a set of some real cool projectors for my solstice. While you have yours open, add some halos and some audi r8 type leds.

nice write up ! and cat

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Not to the lows. Once I get the car back I'll pull the highs and put halo's in there. The lows are sexy enough without anything being added.

The modifications are kittah approved.

great write up man. sticky material for sure!

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Coming from you, that makes my day man!

I'm going to admit one thing. I was scared sh***ess when I started the project. Then after I took them apart, I went "Why in the HECK are these $900 a set????" because they're so simple on the inside.

Step x step with pics !! Easy for someone who doesn't know how it's done (like myself--lol). STICKY!?!

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already done.

Nice write up. With the sheet metal being that thin you could use a good pair of HD scissors to cut it if you don't have tin shears. I actually prefer the scissors over the tin shears as it doesn't bend the metal as much and leaves a cleaner cut. Not that it matters on the bottom for this mod though.

if only i had the guts to do this....

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Send them to me. I'll do them up exactly like this for you for cheap. I have plenty of metal and rivets left over.

To me, this is not necessary for many people, the cutoff is something really that messes with your head, correct cutoff or not with HIDs they will blind others period. Never been flashed at all. Is this an issue for many of you? I guess really my question is is it really that bad to make you do this mod? I understand the cutoff but never really understood why the importance of it all. is it blinding others? its not that bad with people with reg. USDM headlights with HIDs, they will blind you no matter what. Just curious... you guys must have been getting flashed at or been pulled over.

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It doesn't matter if you've been flashed or not, the potential for them to be a hazard exists. It's a safety thing more than anything. Personally I was ok with just having the silverstar bulbs in there without the modded cutoff, but it was obvious that these were RHD headlights. With HID's, that's going to become more pronounced. Personally, I'd rather not become a distraction or safety hazard to other drivers.

Not to mention, if you happen to get pulled over at night and the police office knows what he's doing and looking at, you could be facing some stiff penalties for having non DOT approved equipment on the road.

i've been flashed once only. but otherwise i have never had a problem with mine or ever have been pulled over. although i know for a fact that i AM shining my HIDs towards oncoming traffic and i know how it's like because i've seen mony other imports with HIDs do the same. same goes for people who raise their SUVs without adjusting the beam of their lights which also blinds traffic. but for most oncoming traffic, i am out of their site in a couple of secs so most people don't bother 'flashing' me. however there is still a risk involved especially when driving through smaller roads like in a poorly lit 2-way traffic road (like most of the roads in my town) at night which may momentarily blind the oncoming driver. still.. i'm too freaked out about doing this mod. from what i see, it's either: a) keep it the way it is and blind traffic (on certain occasions). or b) fix cutoff but risk damaging $800 headlamps, risk of future water intrusion due to silicone wear, remove bumper & headlamps, perform work. for now, i'll stick with a) until i find a better reason for doing this like if i get pulled over by cops telling me to fix my lights.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Mar 26, 2009 - 8:53 AM

Momentary blindness will not affect the driver, rain is worse. But yes, I do understand the safety as well.

this is a good sticky. much more detailed than the other one. how much would you charge for this project?

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I'd do it for $30 plus return shipping for anyone on here that wants it done. Mainly because it's time consuming. Just ship them to me, I'll do them, and then I'll get payment set up when they're done and ready to be returned.

doesn't sound too bad. any before and after pics. and like some members are concerned about water getting in. how long have you had the projecters converted for?

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Did'nt take any low light pics, but did test them. Take the cutoff as they come from the factory, and just make the left side flat. It's what you end up with.

Don't have them back on the car yet, it's still in the shop for another 2-3 weeks for paint, ect. Leaking shouldn't be an issue because I ran a full bead of sealant around the glass recess in the housing and verified that it had complete coverage.

Made an update to the original post to include the proper modding necessary to allow the side marker harness fit on the accessory light bulb housing if you want to use those as the markers instead (I am because we shaved the side markers).

Hi all

Great HowTo!

I did it myself, it's quite eazy if you know how to do it.

Just one addition: the opening (and re-sealing) is MUCH simplier that way:

- put the whole headlight in a backing oven, and heat it at 120 degrees Celsius (250 degrees Fahrenheit) for about 5 minutes (or as long as it needs to get the right temperature.
- wearing gloves, take it out (carefully, it's hot!), and remove the glass gently as mentioned in this how-to. It should come off nicely.

...convert your headlight following the how-to, then, when you're finished:

- do NOT mess around by trying to remove the sealant.
- put the glass and the body back in the oven, heat them again to 120 C (250 F).
- Wearing protection gloves again, remove them after 5 minutes and simply put them carefully back together. The sealant should be nicely soft, so it will be quite eazy.
- Firmly press the glass and the body together, and let the whole headlight cool down... you're done!

The JDM's really look amazing, by the way... I strongly recommend this mod to anyone who can afford it (or loves its celica! )

Cheers
marbot

I don't really understand the point of this mod. Cans omeone explain it to me? What exactly does this "cutoff" do? Howcome the headlights have to be converted from RHD to LHD? Any explanation on this is helpful, cause I'm planning on gettin projectors eventually for my car. Thanks.

I don't really understand the point of this mod. Cans omeone explain it to me? What exactly does this "cutoff" do? Howcome the headlights have to be converted from RHD to LHD? Any explanation on this is helpful, cause I'm planning on gettin projectors eventually for my car. Thanks.

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Since Japan drives on the left side of the road, the lights are aimed away from oncoming traffic, so to the left. Since the US drives on the right, this would mean that the lights actually point into oncoming traffic, so they have to be converted to point to the right.

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So could you not just re-aim them, the same way you would aim a normal set of headlights?

no, is a different angle

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Hi.
About the side marker bulbs.
I cut off the three alignment tabs, but still it won't fit. I looked on your picture, and it looks like you had to trim of inside also addition to the tabs?



This post has been edited by richee3: Oct 7, 2017 - 10:41 PM

I don't remember having to trim anything off the inside of the connector. It's been a long time but had I trimmed anything I'd have mentioned it because I posted this right when I did it.

Addingmore options.



stainless steel fron the cheapo piping braces

also cleaned the old rubber and used this to seal



perfect seal



This post has been edited by njccmd2002: Oct 15, 2011 - 8:49 AM

^ You are a god of custom, small modifications. Awesome.