Zimluura

#31

omg it takes a while to get the hang of the top plastic on the steering wheel.

what you need to do first is start the car, and turn the wheel 90 degrees one direction, then remove the screw that is exposed, then turn it the other dir, and get the other screw. i'm pretty sure Coomer's tutorial covered that part. but just in case.

but the separating the top cover after that is a pain too. i put the tilt wheel all the way down, then stuck a flat-head screw driver (covered the tip in duct tape to not scuff things) in the crack and started to pry. it just required allot of force. and then the same force on the other side.

getting it back in takes a little while too. a little bit of poking around inside with a screwdriver to get it to line up perfect. but it's a big thick piece of plastic so it'll be plenty sturdy.

/edit - i think the little red light *is* your stock alarm. i don't really know, i don't have one.

This post has been edited by Zimluura: Dec 13, 2006 - 8:13 PM

pittfirefighter

#32

hold on a min... what am i missing here? why are you taking your steering wheel apart?

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Breaking Axles...

Zimluura

#33

umm, i was mentioning the steering wheel part 'cause he mentioned that he didn't take off the steering column cover because his wheel locked up. and taking the cover off the wheel helps get the gauge cluster out of the car. in hindsight this is *way* off-topic.

i've never had a hard time with the dimmer knob wire harness. i always take off the plastic part that holds the dimmer and ignition, then from behind, unfastened the wire harness. the little part that you push down, on the "plug" of the harness is small so it's sorta hard to press in well. but then it's not too bad to unplug. if you go this route make sure to plug it back in before you test your lights, without the dimmer knob in the circuit nothing will light up.

cnelson

#34

Ok, i'm going to give it another try today, i just couldn't seem to get the wire harness off. Thanks. -cnelson.

Also, what do i need to do the LED lights inside my vents? I think i'm going to give it a try this weekend, if someone could explain it, i've read though the stuff here, but still don't know much about the types of wires i need, and how to hook it up. -censlon.

This post has been edited by cnelson: Dec 14, 2006 - 6:24 AM

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"Drive Well......Drift Better"

pittfirefighter

#35

i listed everything you would need for the LED install, its easier to just walk you through step by step once you get the parts so you know exactly what I'm talking about, the wire is just 18 gauge electrical wire, it comes in a little spindle, I would get one black and one red since you are doing multiple lights. Make sure you get the stranded wire (its the wire made up of multiple smaller wires). Its the most typical wire you'll find at any auto store or radio shack. I accidentally bought the core wire before and it just sucks unless you're doing soldering.

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Breaking Axles...

cnelson

#36

Ok, i'm going to get all the stuff i need on friday, then do the LED's saturday after i get off work, at like 2 or 3ish. -cnelson. So if you could explain it before saturday. Thanks.

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"Drive Well......Drift Better"

Negative

#37

Man, stop agonizing over this. It's waaaay easier than you think it is. Just get the how-to in front of you while you are sitting in the drivers seat and go to work. Follow the directions and you will see how overly simple this is. I think the only tool you will need is a phillips head screw driver and another one that is either short or angled to get the two screws out of the top plastic peice that shields the gauges from the sun.
edit - sorry just saw that you were trying for the vents again now. I very much suggest that you get the gauges colored first as this will help you to "pop your cherry" so to speak and give you the confidence you need to tackle the led vent mod.

This post has been edited by Negative: Dec 14, 2006 - 2:40 PM

cnelson

#38

I just finshed the gauges!!! I'm really excited. Can't see what it looks like since it light out, but tonight i'll post pics. I have work untill 7, but after i get home, i'll post em! So around 7:30 have a look!

This post has been edited by cnelson: Dec 14, 2006 - 2:59 PM

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"Drive Well......Drift Better"

Negative

#39

See what I mean? Now tackle the key ring, cigarette lighter ring, Clock, and the LED vents. After you get that I'll tell you how to do the LED dome and you have a custom lit interior! Good job. Confidence up now?
BTW - What color did you chose?

This post has been edited by Negative: Dec 14, 2006 - 3:21 PM

cnelson

#40

I used blue, but they didn't have blue gels, so i just got the blue 194 lights, i hope they still look the same you know? And my 94 celica doesn't have the light around the key ring. Cigerate lighter and clock i want to do soon. -cnelson.

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"Drive Well......Drift Better"

Negative

#41

Blue LED dome looks super clean. Ask o0black0o - we did his with only 3 LEDs and its soooo much brighter than my red one which has 9 LEDs in it. Red sucks to mod with but it looks so clean IMO.

GreenyST204

#42

>

QUOTE(cnelson @ Dec 14, 2006 - 3:36 PM) [snapback]510497[/snapback]

>
my 94 celica doesn't have the light around the key ring.

Mine did not have one ether but i found that the 5gen celica key light is the same and i think some of the cammrys have the same part. you just need the bulb conector and solder it in.

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Ok Gladys, lets play house, you be the door and I'll shut you.

cnelson

#43

Ok, so here the pic's aren't the best (There really bad, but you get the idea) but i did it. It looks pretty sweet! I'm excited!







So now this weekend, i'm going to do my clock, and the LEDs in the vents. (hopefuly)

-cnelson.

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"Drive Well......Drift Better"

K-ESD

#44

your picts are too big and blurry !

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----------------------6GC's FIRST V6----------------------JDM 96 MR2-T Faster - 94 Celica GT 3MZFE Funner - 99 Rav 4 AWD Handy

tomazws

#45

what kind of humongous black picture is that...

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-TomazWSwww.tomazws.com

DeW_H0e_GT

#46

>

QUOTE(tomazws @ Dec 14, 2006 - 10:02 PM) [snapback]510566[/snapback]

>
what kind of humongous black picture is that...

x2!!!

almost thougth it was halloween

Negative

#47

Man I hope your gauges are brighter than that LOL. Looks like my red LED gauges are even brighter. I trust the real thing is better and the camera just sucks. Good luck this weekend.

cnelson

#48

There much brighter, that camera just sucks without the flash on, sorry the pics look like crap, i'll take some more tonight see if i can get em any better. -cnelson.

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"Drive Well......Drift Better"

cnelson

#49

Ok, so pitfire do i need a stiwch to turn them on and off or can i just do it so wehn i turn my lights on they come on? (for the LEDS inside the vents) I'm either going to go get everything tonight, or tommorow then try to do this tommorow afternoon. -cnelson.

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"Drive Well......Drift Better"

Negative

#50

Pittfirefighter doesn't show up as being on-line so I'll answer this for you. It depends on how you wire it and what you want out of it. You could even wire it to come on with the lights but yet have a switch to turn it off if it gets annoying or whatever. Basically what I'm saying is tell us how you want it and we can tell you how to wire it. Use your imagination. I'd actually like to see you have something original that others would want to have and at the same time further your education on how to wire and properties of lighting.
help us help you - tell us what you want.

cnelson

#51

I'd like to wire it to come on when i turn the lights on, but also be able to turn it off without turning my lights off incase it gets anoying.. Also, theres no soldering or anything right? Just cutting open a few wires, and stuff right? -cnelson.

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"Drive Well......Drift Better"

pittfirefighter

#52

yep no soldering, if you can twist wires together then you will be just fine, alright you will need a switch so that you can turn the lights off if they do get annoying but they will be able to turn on when you turn your headlights/ parking lights on and turn off when you open your door, how's that sound?

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Breaking Axles...

cnelson

#53

That sounds perfict, so i need the LEDS, Wireing, Stwich, and is that it? -cnelson.

EDIT: Also where am i going to mount the stwich? Is it going to look ok? Cause if its easier without the switch i could do that. And also, i won't have a problem adding a new radio after this will I? Thanks.

This post has been edited by cnelson: Dec 15, 2006 - 11:39 AM

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"Drive Well......Drift Better"

Negative

#54

>

QUOTE(pittfirefighter @ Dec 15, 2006 - 4:35 PM) [snapback]510713[/snapback]

>
will be able to turn on when you turn your headlights/ parking lights on and turn off when you open your door, how's that sound?

Right on now we are getting somewhere. Where is the best place to take the + lead from in order to get the lights to go off when the door opens. I noticed alot of the stock features do this Ie. window controls, key light etc.
After some negative experiences with the dimmer switch on o0black0o's car I'd like another option for this. I have to help him finish his wiring on Sun so lets work this out on here.
Now I'm learning something - this is what I wanted out of this besides just helping cnelson out.

Negative

#55

>

QUOTE(cnelson @ Dec 15, 2006 - 4:37 PM) [snapback]510715[/snapback]

>
EDIT: Also where am i going to mount the stwich? Is it going to look ok? Cause if its easier without the switch i could do that. And also, i won't have a problem adding a new radio after this will I? Thanks.

That depends on your tastes. Anywhere on the dash is possible just bear in mind that you have to run wire from the (+) source to the switch then to the LEDs. Don't want to criss cross through the dash too much as any potential problems just get a little harder to diagnose. Don't worry about the (-) connection as any un-painted metal surface that's grounded to the chasis will work fine.
And no this will not effect radio installation later except that you do not want to ground to the same place as the radio to avoid altenator whine in the amps at a later date.

This post has been edited by Negative: Dec 15, 2006 - 12:00 PM

pittfirefighter

#56

alright guys... you need a add-a-fuse mini, it simply takes one fuse point and changes it into two fuses with a positive line coming off the second... and then you pull the fuse for parking lights (i have to double check that this is the fuse i used), put it in the block, and a 5 amp fuse in the block and you're all set

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Breaking Axles...

Negative

#57

>

QUOTE(pittfirefighter @ Dec 15, 2006 - 4:59 PM) [snapback]510722[/snapback]

>
alright guys... you need a add-a-fuse mini, it simply takes one fuse point and changes it into two fuses with a positive line coming off the second... and then you pull the fuse for parking lights (i have to double check that this is the fuse i used), put it in the block, and a 5 amp fuse in the block and you're all set

i'm following you. Got a picture of the connection in the fuse panel? I don't like just sticking a wire in the between the blade of the fuse and the fuse box connection itself like I see alot of people doing. Just looks unprofessional when you open up the fuse box.

pittfirefighter

#58

thats not what this is... i'm running outside to take a pic, let me show you...

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Breaking Axles...

pittfirefighter

#59

ok here are two pics of switches for cnelson...


fuse block pics

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Breaking Axles...

pittfirefighter

#60

i hope its clear in that pic, theres two fuses inside that block that fits into the old spot, the original fuse goes in the first slot and a second fuse goes in the second, the red wire is then the positive from the second fuse... also, the fuse is the parking light, tail light, etc fuse number 30, 15 amp, top right on inside fuse box

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Breaking Axles...