haha doc, no words, just pics, and completely finished.. your gettin good at these swaps haha

but good job, i ran my IC piping the same way

edit: no bov?

This post has been edited by brianforster: Aug 21, 2006 - 3:14 PM

tweak question, y do u always run the ic piping over the block, and into the intake manfold/ throttle body? I know for a fact that the block gets hot (no duh, i have scars to prove it) so doesnt that increas the tempurature of the air that is coming from the intercool, thus negating the effect of the intercool in the first place? (pipe gets hot through convection...air in pipe gets hot through convection as well...idk its science)


just curious tweak

YOUR THE MAN BTW! Another swap down.

without a side feed throttle body you have to run it over the block, the only option you have is to come from the left or the right.

i guess you could throw more 90 degree angles in there but that would hurt spool.

>

yeah thats what i was unsure of....airflow and stuff like that.

doc what im curious about is do you ever have to cut your front bumpers for fitment of the piping? i had a bear of a time trying to get my front bumper on and you can still kind of see where the piping is rubbing the bumper.

what happened to the pic of the infamous dr tweak pose?

the tweak poses lol

Hi Guys,
I'm the proud owner of the above swap and let me just say the sleeper (slow GT) has been awaken and is now a beast!! Currently we are happily boosting at 7-8psi and this thing runs fast, smooth and quiet. What amazes me right now is that everything is pretty much stock right now but 0-80mph is so much easier, fun comes just too quickly. My goal is 10-12psi but before that (under the Doc's advice) I need to sort out decent priced 2.5" maybe 2.75" exhaust from the DP. Any advice and info will be greatly appreciated as I'm still learning about this motor and its potential.
I picked Dr. Tweak for this swap b/c of his experience and knowledge and I wanted things done RIGHT. I got that and more - a peace of mind. Doc's workmanship was amazingly flawless, I mean A/C, cruise, alarm all works. Couldn't tell the car was swapped until you open up the hood! As I told Doc even my wife was impressed. Just amazing. Well, I guess this speaks for itself: Dr Tweak and SCC is my recommendation
Any suggestions regarding exhaust DP back that is not expensive and not much louder than stock would be appreciated.
Thanks Guys
Eli

nicely done DR! any shots of the turbo getting clocked? still curious how you do it! and do you have any experience with the greddy prof b boost controller. i can seem to get it to work, ive changed the switches in the back and everything!

what could cause over heating in this setup aswell? my temp rises everyonce in a while! its getting frustrating!!! very...
(i pressure washed my rad core and this seemed to help. i still need to do the lower half, its was pretty black and gritty to say the least... im sure this could contribuite to it but what else?)

This post has been edited by zipstrips: Aug 21, 2006 - 5:28 PM

>

I used to be all about finding the "coolest" possible route. Here's a pic of one of the first 3SGTE swaps that I did, and you can see the great lengths I went through to avoid hot areas:



vs:


However, after having done this for quite a while now and gaining a lot more experience, I came to find that EVERYTHING under the hood of a car gets piping hot, and the location of the intercooler piping makes a very marginal, if any, difference. The two things that make the most difference is 1. number of bends (less is better) and 2. Quality of the intercooler core.


>

No, I never do any cutting of the bumper. Can you take a pic of your setup with the bumper cover off?

>

Yeah I do, in fact I'm going to post up a thread about it pretty shortly.

I've installed a few profec Bs, yeah. How do you have it set up?

When does the temp rise? When you're boosting? When you're sitting at idle? Are you loosing any coolant?

This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Aug 21, 2006 - 5:40 PM

[quote name='zipstrips' post='471342' date='Aug 21, 2006 - 10:27 PM']
nicely done DR! any shots of the turbo getting clocked? still curious how you do it! and do you have any experience with the greddy prof b boost controller. i can seem to get it to work, ive changed the switches in the back and everything!

what could cause over heating in this setup aswell? my temp rises everyonce in a while! its getting frustrating!!! very...
(i pressure washed my rad core and this seemed to help. i still need to do the lower half, its was pretty black and gritty to say the least... im sure this could contribuite to it but what else?)
[/quote]

Yeah I do, in fact I'm going to post up a thread about it pretty shortly.

I've installed a few profec Bs, yeah. How do you have it set up?

When does the temp rise? When you're boosting? When you're sitting at idle? Are you loosing any coolant?
[/quote]

prof is setup 1234 down,up,down up

or when over boost still occurs 1234 down,up,up,down

from nipple on the compressor houseing to the IN, WG to the greddy box's OUT. the 2nd port on the WG is connected to the TVIS line also (i think im figureing it out... but id still like you to correct me!) ive tried both swtich settings aswell.

seems to rise sometime after boost, sometimes it will climb at idle depending on the temp outside/day. it boils over the reserve bottle usually. i let it cool, open my heater to full blast and burp the system a few times...

BTW: did my PSP get to the mail yet by any chance?!

This post has been edited by zipstrips: Aug 21, 2006 - 6:06 PM

looking good tweek...hows the clocking bracket working out?

>

you have to disconnect the 2nd port on the WG and cap it off when connecting any type of boost controller. if you dont, it wont work correctly.

>

Okay well which ports do you have them going to? Like the compressor side should go to "COM" or something like that... and yes, you have to cap off the second line on the actuator and just use one.

Well is the radiator fan working? Does it overheat, for example, when you're driving down the highway? Any coolant leaks? White smoke from the tailpipe?


>

Working perfectly. If you will write up a detailed how-to with pics when installing yours, I'll give you one

-Doc

>

its the prof B from greddy http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/687.pdf

no com ports that im aware of. just the boxes in and out for boost.

dual slim fans, both working. doesnt overheat on highway. with the tmic it was creeping a little on my trip to philly for the meet. 4psi at the time aswell... no leaks unless shes boiling over when i park. no smoke or such from my pipes either.

i could have used that bracket a couple of weeks ago! lol

heres a link to my fmic install. maybe you can spot something i need to change or something?? who knows

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=40135


This post has been edited by zipstrips: Aug 22, 2006 - 12:13 AM

it should just be, from the turbo to the IN and from the WG to the out. then cap the 2nd port on the wg. your dip switches should be 4321= up down up down

but, something is really wrong with your car if you are only getting 4psi. stock boost is 10psi and low boost is 7psi and thats only if the ecu detects a problem and wants to put you in low boost mode. if you are only getting 4psi, then you have some type of problem that should be addressed before you put a boost controller on.

This post has been edited by lagos: Aug 22, 2006 - 1:02 AM

>

yea, my 2nd port on the WG was capped and thats when i was only getting 4psi... dont i want tvis to work still?! or am i missing somethings. if i cap the 2nd port, i also cap the other side going to the tvis?

>

It has nothing to do with TVIS, that's a different system. You need to cap one of the nipples on the wastegate, then run the other one to the control motor, and the other side of the control motor to the compressor nipple.

And yeah, if you're only hitting 4 psi then you've got something wrong.

Are you loosing coolant, like do you have to fill it up every couple of days to keep it full?

-Doc

>
id love to take you up on that
it may be a while before i can install it tho.

another flawless job done by the good doctor! looks good!!! (guess im the next patient!!!)

>


Hi Lagos,
I just had my swap done, I'm boosting btn 6-8psi and no more than that, I still have my GT exhaust on. If stock boost is 10psi, could my problem be restrictive exhaust of something else? thanks Eli

>


6-8psi is called "low boost mode". the ecu can put the car there if there is some type of problem. i could be anything from bad gas, a boost leak, a cel light or something else. the exhaust could do it, depending on how small it was and if your cats were cloged up really bad. but to give you an example, i had a really crappy midpipe that got damaged. the thing was maybe 2in in diamiter and the rest of the exhaust was only 2.3in and i still hit 10-11psi without any boost controller. so, getting 6-8psi isint right.

zips. the car has two things that get confused a lot. there is tvis, the system that opens up the extra intake runners on the manifold and there is the tvsv, a factory selenoid boost controler that makes the car boost around 10psi when the ecu decides its safe to do so. when installing a boost controler you have to disable tvsv.

This post has been edited by lagos: Aug 22, 2006 - 11:13 AM

>

so what do i do with the 3nd nipple (1 comp housing, 2 on the WG. and the 3 is where the 2nd WG port connects to) ive added about a little more than a quart of water the other day. i havent had a heating issue sense...

between the turbo and the WG is where you install the ebc. from the WG to the tvsv, you disconnect that and cap the 2 nipples with vac caps.

you are loosing coolant, overheating and have a loss of power. those are normally signs of a blown head gasket. do that compression test before you do anything else with the car.

what nipple did you guys use to run your boost controller line into the cabin?

>


any vac line from the intake manifold. just dont use the fpr vac line, like greddy recomends.

>

art, i posted above this is exactly how i had it run. this is when it was stuck at 4 psi and the controller did not work. my heating issue is too sparatic to be a HG, and there is deff not a loss for power here. but your right on the compression test. i do need to check it just so i know

>


if you are only getting 4psi, then you have major loss of power. you just dont realize it because, even at 4psi, the 3sgte is a big upgrade from the 7afe your used to

>

i am not at 4psi. it was stuck at 4 psi and will go back to this state if i cap the 2nd port on my WG and cap the other line that it connects to.... i understand totally from my 7a to the 3s. but i also understand my 4psi and 10psi that its at now.. i am confident that there are no major problems with my motor, again i still agree to do a comp test and i will find someone local to help me check it. and if it is the headgasket ill be relieved to know its not something even more major.. if which i doubt, but if it is the HG, i can only imagine how much stronger it will feel if i have to replace it...

DR. tweak, how are you setting up the vac lines whenyou installed them? dip settings,and where is our gain set?