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Beams is better!

This post has been edited by navseal345: May 24, 2022 - 7:38 PM

Ok hear is the mileage report...

1) 5/13/2022 10:20am
148miles (city driving/ fill up before trip)
5.451gallons
27.15mpg

2) 5/13/2022 5:31pm
210.6 miles (interstate/ Omaha to Grinnell, IA (issue started))
6.943gallons
30.33mpg

3) 5/14/2022 11:02pm
340.2miles (interstate/ Grinnell, IA to Ottawa, IL to big I-80 Truckstop(Walcott, IA)(issue most prevalent/ happened most during this
period))
12.2gallons
27.89mpg

4) 5/21/2022 5:49pm
314.9miles (interstate, maybe less than 20city miles/ I-80 Truckstop to Omaha (kept 65mph 'cause issue was not really noticeable at
that speed)
10.103gallons
31.17mpg

I'm not sure if any of this information helps or has anything to do with the issue I'm having. Or is the difference do to weather/ vehicle speeds? BUT it is the best recorded milage I've had.

Speed plays a huge role in MPG. I bet you'd see over 32 at 55 MPH.

This post has been edited by Bitter: May 25, 2022 - 7:13 AM

Yeah. But... Gotta go fast! Lol

8f it makes you feel better I do not much better with a smaller engine but have less of a high speed penalty.

I think I am getting motivation to work on the car this weekend (haven't touched it weeks) OR that motivation is coming from diesel fuel prices!!

Do people like to use that radiator flush or just use a garden hose to flush the cooling system?

I was thinking...
- Take out thermostat
- Put the neck back on without thermostat
- Use some radiator flush & water, bleed the system & drive around the neighborhood
- Come back, take hoses off, flush with water via the garden hose
- Install new thermostat & neck, & bleed the system with the correct coolant
- That part of the job is done

Then after the cooling system is good, I can drive it long enough to see if my "surging/ misfire" issue returns.

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I wouldn't use flush unless you think there's crud or blockage in the radiator or heater core. I'd just drain the old stuff from the radiator and the engine block, blow out what's in the heater core, then maybe flush the garden hose through the block, heater core, and radiator to see if any crap gets washed out. Fill up with red or pink Toyota coolant, use the fancy coolant purging funnel to get all the air out (helps if the front is up higher like on ramps or stands), then once it's burped all the air out and the thermostat has opened, pop the cap on it and let it cool down a few hours, re-check radiator and bottle level, run it in the driveway again until the fans come on and check it's not running hot, should be good for a drive!

Didn't have any issues with heat so, I won't use the "flush". I have 2 of those fancy bleed funnels, they definitely make the job nicer. Thanks!

Also going to be replacing the radiator hoses... What kind of hose clamps do you all like to use/ prefer...

The basic hose clamps
Basic B!tch hose clamp.

OR

The fancy ones
Fancy hose clamps like this?

Or just reuse the OE spring clamps & see? I dunno just curious on people's opinions.

OE clamps are great, dealer still sells them.

Uh? Thought drain plugs on the bottom of radiators had some sort of o-ring, oh well.

Puts car back together & adds some coolant.

Starts leaking from drain plug.

WTF!

Moves car back a little... And takes a look under car.

There you are! You Son of A B*tch!

Okay.... So... Issue returns!!

I was bleeding the cooling system, had hand on the throttle to hurry it along... Fans come on & a few seconds later the car starts stumbling & dies. Interesting. Wait less than 30 seconds, starts right up no issues. Hand on throttle to get rpms back up, fans come on... and a few seconds later car stumbles & dies. No CEL.

????

This post has been edited by navseal345: Jun 11, 2022 - 5:28 PM

So I had restarted if after letting it cool down for a few minutes... Started right back up, held throttle, fans kick on, few seconds later car stumbles again but only died after I let go of throttle.

Again let it cool for a minute or two & just let the car idle all by itself until the fans come on. Fans come on, & few seconds after car dies. It could have stumbled but since it was at idle it just died.

What a coincidence, I'm doing cooling system work too!

So it's for sure a hot issue. What we need to know is what you're not getting when it stalls or doesn't restart, but being able to duplicate the problem in the driveway is MUCH better than being on the side of the road somewhere. You're going to want 2 noid lights, a spark tester, and a multimeter handy so you can test things while it's failing when hot. Probe one noid light into the 2 wire connector to the ignition coil, the other noid light into a fuel injector, spark tester on a plug wire, and the multi-meter ready to measure resistance of the cam sensor in the distributor as well as the new ignition coil. It would be a good idea to get a fuel pressure gauge on the engine as well just to make sure it's not a pressure issue from a pump failing when hot. Not sure where's good to hook up to on the 5S.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-S.../dp/B0002STSC6/ inline spark tester lets the engine run while seeing if there's spark.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-27800-Universa.../dp/B0002SR57Q/ I like and use this noid light at work, put the thick adapters on it and get a set of these probes, crimp them down just a little with pliers and they grip onto the fat adapters and let you probe more easily.
https://www.amazon.com/destructive-Probes-I.../dp/B08FFHG5HR/ probes

You can make due with one noid light as long as you're quick to re-probe things while it's acting up or don't mind making it act up multiple times, for me though time is money so getting it all looked at in one go is worth the price.

So since the 4 year old O'Reilly's special radiator cap fell apart when I removed it yesterday I went & got a new one from AutoZone, looks like a Gates brand one.

Anyways... Went through the process again. Fans come on, the first time it starts to stumble but not enough to make it die, fans come on a second time & stumbles bad enough that it died after I let off the throttle. It was on the 3rd or 4th time of stumbling that it stumbled bad enough to start flashing the CEL!! So I quickly used my little scanner to read it & it comes up with a: P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit. The car died & wouldn't restart.

I'm just more excited that I was able to get a CEL outta the damn thing.

It's very possible it's a bad CKP, having a code can really cut down on fumbling around to find the problem! I'm still not clear if that ECM times ignition/fuel from the crankshaft or camshaft, the service info I have is a little vague but I think it uses the CMP for telling it when the #1 TDC is to know when the revolution starts and the CKP for measuring engine speed and position between CMP signals. Diagnostics want you to use a scope to look at the sensor waveform and compare to the expected signal from the FSM, you can kind of shortcut that by just checking it's got power and ground and then guessing and replacing it as a maybe if it's not terribly expensive. It is behind the timing belt tho....so you might be doing a timing belt job with that sensor if it is the sensor. However, some cars are kind of stupid and will set a crankshaft sensor code for a bad camshaft sensor, but I don't believe that Toyota is one of the especially stupid ones.
G is the camshaft and NE is the crankshaft.
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I think the clearest solution is to just move up one year to a 2000 Celica.

This post has been edited by Bitter: Jun 12, 2022 - 4:52 PM

So driving it to work so I could work on it... Maybe it's a good it's getting worse, because I made it half way & it did it again I had to pull over because it couldn't make it. Currently letting it cool down, lucky it's not to much farther to work.

That didn't do to plan. Had to let it cool down for 2ish hours on the side of the road to drive it to the shop. I wasn't stuck on the the side of the road, went & did other things came back & made it to the shop.

Had lunch & a drink or "two" with a few friends. Had a great time. Much needed to say the least.

Basically wasn't able to work on the car. Maybe at a later date.

The more broken it gets the easier to find the problem will be and the more confident you can be in your repair.

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Sure hope it goes that way, lol.

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You got this!

I AM MASTER AUTOMOTIVE TECHNICIAN!!!! (I hope) JACK OF ALL TRADES, MASTER OF NONE!

New crank sensor installed, all without taking the timing cover off. Ran until the fans came on a few times with high RPMs & at idle a few times no hesitation/ surging!

I FIX!!

Imma take it for a cruise, not to far from home or the shop tho, LOL.

Sounds like great news.

Best news I've seen all day today!

Yay! I hope it stays fixed for you!

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Me too.


To a point kinda nervous/ scared when I drive it. Especially at a traffic light or in heavy traffic & having it crap out, it's more embarrassing I guess, lol.

yay! now swap a beams into it!

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Honestly it's tempting but not right now.

If you want a good base gen2 3SGTE, I have the one I just pulled out of Stacy's car. It needs totally resealed, but it ran good.


Seriously. If you want it, I'll let it go cheap to you.