Everyone, thanks for all the info. Based on what everyone has said, I plan to do the following:

- Replace the condenser and get the system recharged to the proper pressure
- Replace the 2-row radiator and attach stock radiator fans to it (Does it matter if I go with a generic Ebay one or Mishimoto, they look the same?)
- Replace the ATA with a WTA intercooler. This will eliminate my intercooler piping and allow me to mount the stock radiator fans. Also heat exchangers do not restrict air as much as ATA intercooler.
- I have an exhaust leak on the manifold gasket so I will fix that since I will have access

I looked around for a GT4 bumper in case all of this does not work and have come up with nothing. I will be gathering the parts over the next 2 weeks to do this. Is there anything I missed? Oh yea, and my intercooler fans kick on fine when I turn the AC on.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Apr 11, 2017 - 8:39 PM

I think dual SMIC is a better choice, if it's possible.

>

Why do I need dual side mounts? Wouldn't a single one be fine? I have only 1 intercooler pipe. I believe the dual side mount is for a V style motor with twin turbos. Plus MR2s run a single side mount on their 3sgte.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Apr 11, 2017 - 9:04 PM

To equal the area of your single large FMIC I would think you would need dual side mount?

The A4 is an 2.0 I4 and has the dual side mounts, you run them in series. Here's a picture of one with the front end off so you can see them:

And you can put small puller fans on them to keep heat soak down at lower speeds between pulls or on the dyno.

I am still not convinced it is the intercooler causing the problem. There are plenty of people who have done 3sgte swaps with FMIC and have had no problems. Here are some photos of when Tweak'd used to do engine swaps and they were all FMIC (without GT4 bumpers).





Also, also there are 2 other people on this forum (DarkDeath and ILoveMySilly97) who just recently did 3sgte swaps with FMIC and I have not heard them having problems like this. I really think something else in my system, like the radiator or the condenser is causing the problem. I think before I start going down the route of swapping intercoolers, I am going to replace those 2 parts. Plus, the side mount thing will not work for the Celica on the passenger side unless I remove the windshield wiper fluid tank.

Paahhhh you don't need washer fluid. Well not there. You can put a generic tank anywhere.

Sounds reasonable. Maybe boil the thermostat to make sure it's fully opening.

>

I am about to order what I need. Does it matter if I get a Mishimoto 2-row radiator or a generic one? They both look the same. The thermostat is under warranty so I will just replace it. I am going to hold off on the intercooler for now.

A lot of people remove A/C as well, so they wouldn't have a problem in that regard. As far as the radiator goes after looking the generic eBay specials and the Mishimoto do look strikingly similar. Not saying it's the case but odds are they're both made by the same factory and the best ones get the Mishimoto branding while the others get sent to whatever seller on eBay or Amazon. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it does seem like the Mishimoto ones have cleaner welds. If it were me I'd look into the Koyo Racing radiator part# R1958.

>

I didn't even think about that brand. It looks like the stock radiator fans mount directly to this radiator. The following thread says so:

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=61443

Can you confirm if that is true because if that is the case, I will definitely go with that radiator?

From all the listings they say the Koyo despite being a racing radiator is meant to be 100% direct fit and uses the stock fans, the only thing not direct fit is the radiator cap and you need one of their caps but that's not a big deal if everything else is 100% o.e. fit. Personally I'd trust Koyo over Mishimoto or a generic eBay just due to the fact Koyo is an o.e. part supplier, that and the Koyo looks nicer made for the same price as the Mishimoto. Here according to their quality page they state every radiator is made to use all o.e. mounting locations and fans: http://koyoradracing.com/about/our_quality.asp

>

SOLD!

I found a few on eBay in the $270-280 range, but main thing is finding an authorized retailer so you get all of your warranty. At any rate if it were me I'd go with the Koyo over the others.

>

I found a retailer selling one with the radiator cap for $304.99. It also comes with the warranty. I just made the purchase along with the condenser. I hope to get all this swapped out when it comes in. Thanks for the info, I would have never thought of looking at the Koyo radiators had you not said something.

It would be wise to have a shop evac the AC system for you, then also have the shop recharge it correctly as well. If the receiver/dryer is old it should be replaced in the system as well.

>
Cool beans. No problem, I'm not sure why but I all of a sudden had remembered Koyo made racing radiators for the 6th gen GT among a few other Japanese cars.

Ditto on having a shop pull a vacuum and recharging it as well as replacing the drier/accumulator, personally with most cars the drier is cheap enough that it only makes sense to replace it every time you have the A/C recharged.

This post has been edited by Box: Apr 13, 2017 - 6:42 AM

"While you're there" jobs can be a real time hog, but, while you're there, think about replacing the seals in the AC connection points, at least the ones you touch. If your current refrigerant levels are really low, it must have escaped somewhere, which could well be the seals. Not sure if the new condenser comes with seals, but they're a few bucks anyway.

And yes, replace the dryer - they act like filters in the AC systems, and really are relatively cheap.

You can DIY AC vacuum, but need some tools (which can be loaned out at auto stores) and knowledge, so up to you. To discharge it first before you start taking parts though, a shop has to evacuate the system, definitely not a DIY.

Just about all the parts are in and I am getting ready to start replacing the AC condenser and radiator. I am going to have to take off the intercooler to get to all the parts on the car. This brought up a question. Since I will have the intercooler off, is it a good idea to put a puller fan on it? If so should I wire it with the rest of the radiator fans or have it turn on by some other method?

Wire it to an IAT with a fan controller kit so it comes on at your target IAT.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?...-Fan&A=2478

I got my Koyo radiator and the stock fans fit on it perfectly. I also got my new condenser and filter can in. Hopefully these items will fix my heat issue.



It was definitely a pain in the butt to get everything off. I had to remove the bumper and intercooler to get to everything.


The old condenser was clogged with a bunch on bugs and crap. I bet that was affecting some of the air flow to the radiator.


This is a shot of the old condenser next to the new one.


This is my brand new Koyo radiator. The bolt holes for the radiator fans line up perfectly!

I also decided to go with different shaped intercooler to help airflow get to the radiator. Below is a shot of the old and the new intercooler and the new intercooler installed.



As you can see I went with a taller but narrower intercooler. It actually has more surface area than than to old one too, so score! All these changes should fix my cooling issues.

This post has been edited by HardHead93: May 14, 2017 - 8:56 AM

I sure hope so! You should get some heat shield on that pipe too!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/122464347337?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
And secure with some SS ties.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181830612891?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

how to use the ties and what the product looks like. Not the prettiest but it blocks a ton of heat from radiating toward the radiator area and fans.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ecS2ZwjWo-g
They have product installation videos on their website that show how to measure and cut and do stuff to make it look like a pro race car job.

Nothing like cutting/removing the crash bar to fit a bigger intercooler.

Here is a shot of the front of the car with the new intercooler. It definitely opens some space on the sides for some airflow compared to the old intercooler.

>
Taking the old stock bumper that originally comes from the car and adding a lip to the bottom would suit your needs. I have a buddy that did it on his car He was tired of the aftermarket front bumper so he just stole the lip off of it and put it on the stock one. Doesn't look too bad.

http://www.andysautosport.com/images/extre...licac5front.jpg

they call that the C5, it similar to the stock gt4,
or the Invader is cool looking too
https://www.carid.com/duraflex/blits-style-...amp;url=1666518

I got everything installed and was excited that my temps were acting normal until yesterday. It was a hot 100 degree day. I was driving about 75-80 mph on the freeway with the AC on and the water temps would slowly rise to 222 degrees. It looks like it would continue to rise (that's not good) so I turned the AC off. The temps would then drop back down to about 208-209 while still on the freeway. I would turn the air back on and again it would rise to about 222 again. Then I would turn it off and it would drop again. When I don't use the AC at all the water temp never goes above 204 even with highway driving. Also, in stop and go traffic with the AC on, the temps are fine. More and more it is looking like the FMIC is blocking just enough air cause the problem.

If you read this full thread, you can see that I have replaced everything in the cooling and AC system. I also had a shop properly charge the AC system so the condenser would work correctly and they checked out the compressor and said it was operating fine. I am thinking of putting a 7 inch slim fan on the back of the intercooler to get some air to flow through. This sucks that the problem is only happening with the AC on!

This post has been edited by HardHead93: Jun 10, 2017 - 9:42 AM

yep, too much heat load with the AC on, for sure try an aux slim fan, you already have one from previous so all you need is a relay harness to piggy back on the fan control circuit so it runs with the AC.

That or time for a SMIC setup, but can always try a fan that comes on with the A/C first.