All stock ST205 except 2.5" exhaust and standalone ECU. The charge cooler is programmed to start at over 50% throttle or over 45C IAT.

The intake temp starts at 5C and slowly rises to 50-55C. Outside temp is around 15C. How agressive i drive doesnt seem to affect temps by much.

What temps should one except from the stock cooler?



This post has been edited by skogs: May 3, 2015 - 6:48 AM

That's not bad if measured at the intercooler, as it's only 130º Fahrenheit. Taking into consideration it's cooling off air moved out of an incredibly hot environment and then is sitting on top of an engine that's about 200º Fahrenheit itself.

It actually makes sense that heatsoaking is the reason here. When i logged this i was driving short distances at a time.

I found a log from a roadtrip. The temp holds steady at 40C when cruising.

So about 100º Fahrenheit. Seems fairly good for a TMIC.

This post has been edited by Box: May 3, 2015 - 8:35 AM

Maybe its time to get a FMIC. The temps reach 55C rather quickly when the car is stopped, and it takes a long time to get it down to 40C again.
At 55C, the ignition is down -1.5deg, so i am loosing a bit of power.

I was going to say something about maybe some heat-shielding, but I'm sure there's something from the factory or if there isn't there's a reason. Maybe a slim mount fan meant for TMIC's during stop and go traffic? Then again if a good FMIC kit is around that'd probably be the best route.

Hi,

your data log isnt that fine when i see your iat it is just a straight line....down there i have uploaded one from me, total build engine, BW EFR6758, TTE water to air tmic, with custom pump and pre-radiator

here the built up if interested

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...6775&st=220

and here a cut out of my datalog, iirc it was ~30°C outside temp. so iam around +10-15°C over outside which is pretty good the theoretically maximuns is called at outisde temp. +10°C



the often called "heat soak" isn't what it is called, you see a high IAT when there is no boost and a drop down on boost but why? the answer is pretty simple, there is no air flowing over the radiator, or in other words nothing to cool down for him, the ic uses no heat shield and i'am using the oem intake box (which get his air from the cool fender area)

in your case i would do the following,

- drive as much water as possible in the system so rais the water ratio (i drive 2/3 water and 1/3 anti freeze)
wate is the best cooling liquid you can find on the world with his high specific heat capacity and heat transfer against glycol

- copy the oem programm of the ecu, my haltech also wasnt able to controll the pump like this so we built a small electronic for around 20€ or something

start, when you hit the gas pedal and a delay of 30sec after the pedal isnt pushed

greetz

This post has been edited by Sunny: May 3, 2015 - 9:42 AM

I too find it weird that it is pretty much a straight line. I would think that temps would increase with higher pressure.

Could be a faulty sensor. A new one shouldn't be more than $10-20.

I'd actually be curious to see what the difference is between a stock setup and those who have their pump setup to run full time.

Also heat shielding the IC from what I've read on here, from people that have measured before and after, made no difference at all.

This post has been edited by cardshark525: May 4, 2015 - 8:35 AM

Hi,

cardshark, you are total right
the oem controll of the pumps is pretty opimal
and the shell of the ic has nearly no surface against his internals which makes a further heat shield nearly useless

many myths are going on on every forum of the world

greetz