Smaay

#31

ok here is a picture of the harness with all the loom removed.


the run going down to the bottom left of the picture leads to the ECU. in the top left is where it was cut. They cut off the fuse and EA1, positive battery, coil, and igniter. they also cut off my fuel rail.

So what im hoping is that i can just rotate the wiring so that it will run along the injectors and then come down the right side to the normal firewall location. Ill salvage wiring from a GT harness for what i need and maybe have to extend a few wires. This might not be that bad at all

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

bsamps4

#32

On the right track! Still doesn't look like a picnic.

luka

#33

awesome work!

I need to get my swap going too

Smaay

#34

for the code 54 fix, what is the wattage needed for the 1K resistors? will 1/4 watt be enough? 1/2? or 1 watt?

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

Box

#35

Just go with what's biggest that'll easily fit. Higher the wattage the more it can dissipate without catching fire. Catching fire is never fun.

---

2001 Miata LS 5-speed

Batman722

#36

1/2 watt should be fine.

---

my st205 swapandour Beams swap

Smaay

#37

>

QUOTE (Box @ Mar 23, 2015 - 2:01 PM)

>Just go with what's biggest that'll easily fit. Higher the wattage the more it can dissipate without catching fire. Catching fire is never fun.

very true

>

QUOTE (Batman722 @ Mar 23, 2015 - 3:15 PM)

>1/2 watt should be fine.

awesome, thanks Dustin!!!

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

Smaay

#38

Tore the engine apart, its a good thing I did. the rod bearings showed serious wear. This is exactly why I dont support JDM engines, you never know what you are going to get. You spend more money tearing it down and rebuilding it with new parts.

the bearings on the left were under the rod, the right were under the rod cap. this is a sign of poor oil changes, more than factory boost, or detonation. I replaced all the bearings with ACL.





Im doing a build thread much like the 7A-FE build i wrote. step by step building a 3S-GTE.. it will have its own thread.

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

Box

#39

Those Japanese people sure are rough on their cars.

---

2001 Miata LS 5-speed

Smaay

#40

yeah im sure they abuse the hell out of them, knowing they have to be changed every 60K KM

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

Smaay

#41

well the engine is in. i need a few more -6 A/N fittings to finish the fuel lines. I set the intercooler on and it looks like the stock hood isnt gonna clear. My ignorance is showing, is this true? with the top mount intercooler the hood wont clear?

is there an aftermarket CF hood that does the job? Im starting to lean towards FMIC on this project as well.

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

Box

#42

From what I've seen you have to use the ST-205 hood to clear the TMIC. There is an aftermarket carbon fiber hood that's done in the GT-Four style, but is fitted for the regular bumper, it should work if it's identical aside from where it meets the bumper cover. Honestly if it were me for what it'd cost for the hood you can do a FMIC and you'll gain a little performance thanks to reduced intake temps.

Also you can get a black intercooler and go with the sleeper look if you so desire.

---

2001 Miata LS 5-speed

kloudkicka

#43

I ran into the same problem, yes you can close your stock hood over the top mount intercooler, but once you start driving and you open your hood afterwards, your top mounts gonna be pretty scratched up, it will be rubbing against your hood the entire time which is not a good thing, this just gave me an excuse to do the gt-four conversion lol

Smaay

#44

thanks for the info guys. Im leaning more towards FMIC. im sure I could sell off the TMIC and brackets to recoup the cost in parts. Plus I still need a heat exchanger and water pump if I run the WTA.

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

enderswift

#45

I added 1 inch spacers to the hinges of my gt hood and trimmed the webbing back. Looked fine and closed fine. No need for a gt4 hood

This post has been edited by enderswift: May 31, 2015 - 10:48 AM

Smaay

#46

>

QUOTE (enderswift @ May 31, 2015 - 8:47 AM)

>I added 1 inch spacers to the hinges of my gt hood and trimmed the webbing back. Looked fine and closed fine. No need for a gt4 hood

what does that look like in the back? pics please

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

qatar11

#47

>

QUOTE (enderswift @ May 31, 2015 - 11:47 AM)

>I added 1 inch spacers to the hinges of my gt hood and trimmed the webbing back. Looked fine and closed fine. No need for a gt4 hood

interesting.. you don't have any heat issue?

---

-Mikemjcoury@gmail.comTeam Reynolds StyleCelica BlogCelica WikiIt will take him a moment to realize that he's about to make a 180 degree turn at speed, but you will be ready for it. Brace for the g's, and fast heel-toe work.

Batman722

#48

We did the same on Stef's car when the 3sgte was in it.
Same thing - trimmed the bracing under the hood and spacers to raise the hood a bit in the back (not a fan of that look). We also pulled out the rubber trim between the hood and cowl and that made a good difference with heat escaping.

---

my st205 swapandour Beams swap

Smaay

#49

pics please.

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

enderswift

#50

Like Dustin says, the rear gap actually helps vent heat

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jun 1, 2015 - 11:11 PM

qatar11

#51

>

QUOTE (Batman722 @ Jun 1, 2015 - 10:48 PM)

>We did the same on Stef's car when the 3sgte was in it.
Same thing - trimmed the bracing under the hood and spacers to raise the hood a bit in the back (not a fan of that look). We also pulled out the rubber trim between the hood and cowl and that made a good difference with heat escaping.

>

QUOTE (enderswift @ Jun 2, 2015 - 12:09 AM)

>

Like Dustin says, the rear gap actually helps vent heat

Huh... who knew?

---

-Mikemjcoury@gmail.comTeam Reynolds StyleCelica BlogCelica WikiIt will take him a moment to realize that he's about to make a 180 degree turn at speed, but you will be ready for it. Brace for the g's, and fast heel-toe work.

Smaay

#52

thats not too bad looking. I think we can get away with that for awhile

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

Smaay

#53

ok gurus, having a problem. engine will not start. it sputters like its trying to but just wont start. I have spark at the plugs. I believe im getting fuel, however when i took the plugs out they were not very wet.

I built this harness pretty much from scratch, i did take the resistor box out of the loop and im using high impedance top feed injectors. so the wiring for injectors is like a stock GT. constant power on one leg and the ECU grounds the other.

i did a compression test and got 140 across the board. seems a bit low. i checked my cam timing and its dead on.

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

Box

#54

Have you tried starting with the throttle open, could be the IACV screwing with you. Only other things I'd think to test is the MAP and fuel pressure. I'm sure you've already checked things like fuses, relays, and firing order.

Cranking pressure seems a little low, but since it's consistent it shouldn't be causing issues.

---

2001 Miata LS 5-speed

Smaay

#55

i figured it out. turned out to be bad wiring to the distributor. I also had 2 sticking injectors. once those were fixed, its all up and running. got some new questions now.

this vacuum line i have in a loop, what does it go to?



this nipple on the intercooler, where does it go?


these 2 nipples on the BOV, where to they go?



im still getting code 54. i followed the guide on the above website, however that guide is intended to be done at the plug to the water pump. I did the work at the ECU pins. Im starting to think I need to do it as if I installed a 205 setup in a 185. I need to add a relay and do the other diagram. right now i have nothing in pin C 22 (INT) does the ECU want to see a load on that as if its tripping the relay?

i also have the intercooler level sensor grounded. from what i have read if you have the full harness, you just unplug the sensor and short the pins in the plug so this should be the same thing.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jun 12, 2015 - 10:26 PM

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

Smaay

#56

I think i need to do this to defeat code 54 at the ECU connections

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

enderswift

#57

The nipped at the charge cooler is for the ac idle up valve. That's an aftermarket bov, so it's tough to say exactly what the vacuum connections should be. I would just figure it out through trial and error. I'm pretty sure you need a specific resistor at the level sensor

Smaay

#58

thats the OEM BOV. maybe because my engine is a WRC?

the gtfours website says to just bridge the coolant level, so so just grounding it should do the job, according to the drawings.

This post has been edited by Smaay: Jun 13, 2015 - 9:40 AM

---

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac

enderswift

#59

Just Googled it. You are correct about the bov. I'm surprised Toyota changed something like that. Can't think of any benefit for doing so

This post has been edited by enderswift: Jun 13, 2015 - 11:12 AM

Box

#60

Didn't the WRC cars have anti-lag? Could have something to do with that.

---

2001 Miata LS 5-speed