Ditto on raising the front. The Stant OE replacements would work as needed, just double checked. I've seen before where people have had problems with these kind of aftermarket radiators. Honestly you would've been better off with a Koyo OEM replacement.

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Good information. Thank you! however my system is blead to my knowledge so i dont THINK its that.

Was just looking at different radiator caps and saw these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/D1-SPEC-RACING-RAD...=item2ed982a213

lol they are pretty cool, a cap with a temperature gauge built into it.

It should be flowing a lot through the heater core. Check if there are any kinked lines if there are not any my next step would be looking into the blend door I know you think its working but it might not be. And also check if the ac is on while doing this.

I agree it should be flowing a lot and it seems like it does. I bought a new thermostat today with a new gasket. so ima try to install this one. Im almost thinking what another member posted previously. he said that if the bleed hole on the thermostat is not on the top then the air wont bleed correctly. I cant remember what i did when i re installed the thermostat, so ima just put a brand new one in with a new gasket and make sure that the bleeder valve is on the top.

And then i will check the blender door :-)

This post has been edited by rapid36: Jan 10, 2015 - 4:42 PM

Hey guys can someone take pictures as well as tell me how the heater hoses are supposed to be routed? is the inlet hose suppose to be on the top pipe on the water block or the bottom?

Check out this http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/94_6gmanua...er%20system.pdf
And the heater core hose locations don't matter it just flows through.

Thanks i will use this when performing my repairs. I wont be able to get around doing this right away cause of work and the kids so i will post back as soon as i can get a look at the heater core.

This post has been edited by rapid36: Jan 11, 2015 - 8:43 PM

Do you "hear" water running through the heater core when you first head off down the street? When its low or you have an air pocket that is what you hear. I would look at the mixing valve/blend door, whatever you want to call it. Here's the thing; if there is hot water flowing through the coil and the blower is pushing air across the heater core, then you should have heat. There's nothing else to it.
I Promise you that replacing the heater core is NO Fun at all. and most likely you don't need to do that unless it sprung a leak and is leaving a puddle in your floorboard.

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Hey thanks for your response! It's very kind of you.

And nope I don't hear any water noise or any noise for that matter when going down the street. However if I have hot water going through the inlet hose I should have hot water going through the outlet hose too shouldn't I? Cause the inlet hose is sooo hot to where I can beauty hold onto it. But the outlet hose is just warm and very cool compared to the inlet hose. Also the outlet hose gets hot when no running the fans but when running the fans the hose gets instantly cool. I personally don't think this is normal from what a ton of videos on YouTube says. That's why I'm pointing to the heater core. I would hate to replace the heater core lol but it's looking like it to me. But I will take the advise you nice people have Given me. I will check the blend door first :-). Hopefully checking that won't be as hard as checking the heater core. Does anyone know of a way to easily check the blend door? If not then no worries this weekend i will just check it per the manual online. Thank you all by the way for all of your help. Your all are amazing people you have a great community here.

Hey guys i keep on looking up videos on flushing the heater core just in case i missed something. Eric the car guy used compressed air to flush out the heater core. I have a compressor and i think i will try this method, its simple to do and will only take a few minutes to do so why not lol. I will try the compressed air method this weeked. I will keep everyone posted if it worked or not.

yes I would use air to blow through the heater core first. The blend door is just the mixing valve on the inlet hose at the firewall. The cable runs from your heater control to mixing valve, so when you turn the heater control the cable pulls the valve open so there is hot water running through the heater core. When you have the control set for cool air the cable pulls that valve closed.
You should be able to remove the inlet hose and see if the valve is opening and closing like it should. Or maybe you just need to check that the cable is hooked up right.

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OK thanks I will blow through the heater core with compressed air first. And then I will add radiator flush to the heater core and let it sit for a few hours and then blow all of that out and rise it out then put coolant back in.

Yeah, if the core isn't leaking look at the blend door like Valve mentioned. From what memory serves the Celica has a cable to adjust the temp, and zones are by motor. With the car off, listen very carefully by twisting the temp knob to see if you can hear the door opening and closing.

That or it may not be that noisy on the Celica as it is on some cars, but if everything else is fine that's really the only thing left.

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Yup I can hear the blend door opening and closing. I tell a difference in air temp when changing it too. Just doesn't get hot hot. Only warm. But I do hear it very clearly when changing it to full hot.

The only other thing I know to do is get a real coolant gauge or use a digital thermometer in order to see what the actual temperature is. Like I had said before, sometimes there are issues with these larger radiators effectively over cooling.

did you say you tested the thermostat and verified what temp it is opening at? Even if the radiator was oversized the temp of the water going through the motor, and the heater core should always be right around the temp the thermostat is set for.

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I think i solved the issue. Although it makes no sense as to why its working. I put compressed air through it and i looked into the bottle i had the inlet hose in and saw pretty much nothing. all clean an clear. So I replaced the thermostat. the old one didnt have a bleeder valve on it, and the gasket was large due to all of the heat getting to it over the years and it was very worn. i can take pictures if anyone wants to see.. It seems like the new thermostat fixed this issue but it makes no sense as to why this fixed it. cause even when the thermostat is closed the water is still circulating through the heater core. Im scratching my head with this one but at least its fixed :-P I will change the description to solved and i will buy a digital thermometer and measure the temperature coming out of my vents. maybe someone else can post thiers here if they have one? That way when i get mine i can compare the temperatures and see if its where it should be.

This post has been edited by rapid36: Jan 13, 2015 - 10:09 PM

If the thermostat was being stuck open, or if it was the wrong temperature. At least it's fixed now.

This post has been edited by Box: Jan 13, 2015 - 10:15 PM

Some people see that there's a cooler thermostat, and think that hey cooler temp means better and faster.... So they throw one into their stock car and make things worse...

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Theoretically it's possible, heat waste energy stays constant while cooling capacity increases. A lighter can warm up a few ounces of water with no problem, but what about a gallon? Of course an engine puts out a lot more waste heat and has the benefit of having regulation, but being it's Winter if such an event were to occur this would be the time. Of course in a car with electric fans it's even less likely to be an issue.

This post has been edited by Box: Jan 13, 2015 - 10:35 PM