Say you rebuilt your 5SFE from the ground up.... and say... you have the kind of oil leak that would require approx 1 quart of oil to be added every hour (Endurance racing conditions).. Where would this leak be coming from?

- *Every* seal on the engine is new (inc. valve guides)
- Most of the mess is on the transmission side of the engine / engine compartment
- Removing the access plate? the back of the flywheel looks dry / I don't think it is the rear main seal

Other interesting tidbits:

- The PCV has been deleted and replaced with a little cone filter... should this be replaced with a catch can?
- The EGR has been deleted and a large bolt has been used to block the port... has anyone deleted EGR and if so how did you do it?

Is anyone running a proper oil pressure gauge? What are you getting? @ High RPM and high load and when we are full and cold - we are high (60-70 psi) As we warm up, it drops to 50 psi or so... and then we lose oil until things get very low... 40 psi or so.

People say the motor burns oil naturally, like a quart every 2000 miles.
but a Quart an Hour has got to be alot even if you're racing it.

I've had oil flow past the pressure sensor before. Lots of it. I'm assuming you have a t fitting that sends oil pressure to your after market gauge and to your stock idiot light. I would check there. It's on the transmission side too. Have you tried using uv dye yet?

My car is leaking under boost and I am sure it's because it didn't have a PCV connected, and on top of that the stock breather on the valve cover is too small for anything but stock.

2 things i can think of mike.
#1, pcv is definetly gonna need a catch can, its definetly gonna blow that funky mist thru the filter in racing conditions.
#2 dizzy seals?

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*Normally* we never have oil loss issues. We'll change the oil before a race and be good all weekend.


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No T-fitting, the oil pressure sending unit (sensor) has replaced the OEM oil pressure switch as it only goes to the IP which you never look at while racing... we have a new wizbang idiot light . No UV dye yet it seems like copious amounts of oil loss for a hairline crack.. but who knows...

Autometer Elite Series


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I think you are right about the PCV... going to get a catch can for that.... and we can check the Dizzy seal / valve cover? What about EGR? How many people have deleted that? How do they normally delete it?

This post has been edited by qatar11: Aug 21, 2014 - 2:43 PM

Found it... under the plate that connects the engine to the trans and covers the flywheel... its bubbling out of the oil pan / engine mating surface... the oil pan must have been damaged (bent) when I removed it for the rebuild... the more you know...

As an aside: What has everyone used to break that black RTV seal and remove the oil pan?

Welcome to the club. I'm about to get a new oil pan. I've taken mine off and put it back on twice already. The first time I did the "4mm" bead recommended amount by the books. It leaked in that same spot.

I then did a bead that was like 3 times as thick. It's leaking again. I'm about to just grab some grey permatex stuff and smear it across the surface, or get a new oil pan.

P.S. I used this type of pry tool

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/pro.../11513/image/4/

The flat side is thinner, and you can make it fit between the mating surfaces, and then just slide it across to break up the silicone a bit.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Aug 25, 2014 - 9:41 AM