I just made this video on using this stuff to "weld" a bung on my i/c piping. It acts more like solder, but has a high melting temperature and it's used for aluminum repairs. You guys should seriously buy some. I've worked on cars with cracked intake manifolds that this stuff would have worked great on if I had known about it. I don't think it would be very good at making a full i/c piping set compared to welding. It is airtight and it holds the 15-ish lbs I'm pushing with the stock turbo, but the two pipe scraps that I joined together have to be at least 1/8th of an inch apart to sturdily join together, and it runs like a liquid on rounded surfaces. If the gap is too small it only bonds to the top surface. It's also called wizardweld and durafix. Solid stuff, I keep checking the bung I put on and it is still there. High tensile strength stuff..75% zinc alloy I think.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQw9Xt6EJN8
-Jay95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
That stuff seems pretty neat... I also need to get a bung on my charge pipe. How much did the alumaloy set you back?
1993 Celica GT Coupe - sold1994 Celica GT Liftback
I had some of this a while back, apparently it didn't fix the hole in my 1mz v6 block. lol
This post has been edited by soulshadow: Oct 12, 2013 - 8:23 PM
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QUOTE (soulshadow @ Oct 12, 2013 - 3:23 PM)
>I had some of this a while back, apparently it didn't fix the hole in my 1mz v6 block. lol
haha..you tried it on a block?? lol. It's aluminum..how well does it bond to a block? I've been thinking about repairing the rust spots on my truck with it.
This post has been edited by match220: Oct 12, 2013 - 9:44 PM
-Jay95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
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QUOTE (Syaoran @ Oct 12, 2013 - 2:14 PM)
>That stuff seems pretty neat... I also need to get a bung on my charge pipe. How much did the alumaloy set you back?
the alumaloy alone was maybe $15 for about 10 rods. Then I had to buy the propane and the torch adapter, which was under $25. I would pay a welder twice that here.
-Jay95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
ive actually had a bunch of that stuff laying around the garage of a few years now, havent had a good reason to use it. glad to hear its worked for ya!!!
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
I think it works pretty poor on anything but super thin things. Aluminum disperses heat very quickly and anything thick disperses the heat and it wont bond.
-93 Rx7, Turbo 6.1L v8, 725rwhp/760rwtq-95 Celica GT Rally Car - 3sge/AWD-10 F150Always buying stock wheels... PM me if interested in selling.
