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Yeah, he did it because it was a very common issue and grinding off a tooth was a recommended solution to get things working in the early days . The DIYPNP now has the adjustments needed to get it working with the stock setup on the 3s (and maybe even the 5s) distributor without modification. They ended up using the DIYPNP as a basis for their MSPNP that they officially sell for the 3s.

You should really solder your own board. Its not hard at all and kind of a fun project.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jul 9, 2013 - 1:55 AM

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Thanks I toyed with the idea of swapping out the ecu and loom completely to match the engine as a exercise in curiosity but maybe no. I have a line on some RX7 non turbo 460cc injectors high impedance at last bloody hard to find down here.

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If you're gonna run Megasquirt, don't limit yourself to RX-7 Injectors. With it, you can run anything that fits.

Personally, I'd recommend these, which fit: "Miata" 550CC High Impedance Injectors

They use the same OEM plug and are the same length as the OEM injectors. They use a different nozzle for firing the fuel which is more efficient than the pintle-type RX-7 injector as an added bonus.

If you insist on 460cc injectors, then get these instead: Miata 440cc Injectors

They've also got the same plug.

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Im just going with what is suggested, personally I thought 460 was a little to big for what I needed. This seems like a better deal cause I would have had to have the others serviced as well and here that costs about $30 per unit

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The only reason why 460cc are suggested is because most people who turbocharged the 5S... scratch that, EVERYONE who turbocharged the 5S in the past went with a piggyback. They all can only scale the injectors so much, that if you were to get bigger than 460cc it would be a little difficult to tune the off-boost part of the map.

With a megasquirt, you input your injector size and you can scale them to whatever pulse width you prefer. Technically it'll behave like a stock car off-boost (leaner than stock, if you want, to save a lot of fuel), and it'll dump in the necessary fuel when on boost.

I personally recommend you get the 550cc and wait until the Megasquirt is installed. I'd rather run a large injector at 50% duty cycle than an injector that is just enough at 90% duty cycle.

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Are these what you had in mind. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-1989-92-RX-7...054&vxp=mtr
Think I owe you and a few others a beer or 3 if I ever get back to the States again

This post has been edited by thorshammer: Jul 10, 2013 - 12:37 AM

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The first ones I linked you are the ones I purchased and fit into my fuel rail and head, and are the exact same plugs as the OEM Denso injectors.

Haha that would be nice but I'm in Puerto Rico

Thanks for everybodys help and input but after adding it all up have decided that the cost of doing this properly is prohibitive. I lived in Texas for 6 months awhile back and the cost of stuff over there compared to here is like chalk and cheese. Its also unlikely I could get it engineered legal, when I was young dumb and full of cum that didnt matter so much but nowadays its a bit different. Thanks again all when I get it finished will post some pics in the unmodified section-cheers

I didn't know the megasquirt interpolates values, i'm not sure if my ecu does that or not

but i do know that for example if boost references are 5psi apart... and say you had references -5, 0, 5, 10 etc, then optimal timing would be at those points, but 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9 etc psi levels will have less than optimal timing

i'm betting if i had 50x50 over 20x20 i'd have more overall torque and smoother power, and my highboost where i run out of resolution would be alot more punchy

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They all interpolate the values.
The only real benefit to larger maps is that you can add different fuel or timing values in very odd cells, like 10 kpa to slightly smooth out the transition during throttle lifts. Or you can add specific cells for very high boost levels your car will never run.

If you look at your boost gauge, the transition from 0psi to 7psi to 10psi to 15psi happens almost instantly. So you only really need to tune the car for those values, with one extra row for something like 20psi, should you decide to up the boost to a crazy level. If you dial you boost to 13psi, its just going to use the interpolated value between 10 and 15, and since the changes in timing and fuel are linear, that value will be correct.

Personally I think 16x16 for both fuel and timing is perfect. No one is going to dyno tune their car at 1psi, 2psi, 3psi, 4psi, 5psi, 6psi, 7psi + and need some specific settings in each of those to warrant some 50x50 ignition table.


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Thats actually not true. The transition is linear. No professional tuner takes the time to tune each psi level, because 1) it would take a lot of dyno time and 2) the values they would find would be somewhere in between of the highest and lowest cell they already tuned for.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jul 27, 2013 - 1:06 PM

my st205/powerfc was tuned with small increments

my dyno tune was from 9am to 4pm with half an hour lunch break to cool down the car

finished off with a 15 minute road tune and i completed the rest

my map is fully in increments of 10kpa from vacuum to 40kpa over atmo (140), then jumps to to increments of 30-40kpa up to a total of 2bar over atmo (300kpa)

its very nice and smooth to drive in the high-res zones, but on highboost im certain i can have more torque as my ignition timing falls by 3-4 degrees per row

IF it is indeed interpolated, then yeah none of this matters