I just completed my 3rd gen 3SGTE swap. I am using the 3S engine harness with the 5S body harness and mated the EA1 plugs according to Manny's progress thread and cross referenced a few other threads.

The 3 leftover wires from the EA1 merge are white/black stripe, black/orange stripe, and blue/red stripe. I grounded the white/black stripe. Then, I connected the two others to a orange wire and ran that straight to the positive terminal battery.

I go inside, turn the key, fuel pump (walbro) primes and I start the engine. Engine runs for 20 seconds and then dies.

I then jumped the B+ to the Fp with a paper clip and it ran fine until I noticed the paper clip smoking so I turned the engine off.

Did some researching and found Lagos' thread on running 12ga wire to a relay to power the fuel pump Rewire Fuel Pump so I did exactly that and guess what. Same issue of shutting off after 20 seconds. Same issue as Fate but he isn't responding to my PMs

So I did some more researching and found this post:
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So I messaged him (don't expect a response since he posted this back in 06 ahaha) to see how he did it.


Here are my thoughts:
-Straight up connect Pin 1 from the COR to the Fuel Pump (is this what Charlie up there meant?) Or do I jump pins 1 and 4 on the Fuel Pump Relay?
-If I go straight from the COR to the fuel pump, the relay couldn't switch to Hi/LOW power mode. Is that ok?


Here's another diagram (sorry it's to another site):
3SGTE wiring diagram


Will the COR properly operate the fuel pump if it is directly wired to it?

Side note: I promise I'll update my progress thread later. Just want this figured out!

THANKS FOR ANY INPUT! As you can see, I have exhausted my searching functions haha

The fuel pump resistor pack is bad.
Bypass it and the car will run a little rich but will be ok or replace it.

edit: My solution was ... a 205 or 185 one was way too much $ from the dealer. I bought a brand new one from a mid 90s land cuiser (I think) for about $15 and used that. No problems since. You just have to find a resistor pack with the same oms resistance.

This post has been edited by Batman722: Mar 18, 2013 - 8:34 AM

^^ Dustin and I bypassed my FPR on my 3s as the harness didn't come with the relay and the car runs fine. It does run a little rich, wideband reads around 14.6 at idle, fairly normal. but havent had any readings during pulls yet. exhaust pops here and there but I'm going to try and get a tune to help with that, or add a relay.

This post has been edited by Ted95: Mar 18, 2013 - 11:22 AM

from the looks,

its okay to just cut the plug from the resistor pack and bridge it?

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thats how you make the fuel pump whirr all the time huh?

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He also asked if it would be okay if the pump ran on high all the time, I simply told him my experience with the pump running full power all the time.

Thanks for all the replies guys!

I went out earlier today just to look over all of the wiring, plugs, sensors, EA1 and stuff again. I swear if I spent more time looking at my damn car instead of looking online everywhere, I would have noticed that the plug to fuel pump resistor pack wasn't completely plugged in.

Well, effin A right? haha So I plugged it in, started her up and guess what. Runs just fkin fine now! hahaha

Spent hours looking at diagrams, mr2oc, gt4oc, 6gc, toyotanation...ton of other forums haha

Just glad it's good now!!

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I asked as a method of doing it, someone else seemed to think the right way was to run a new relay and leave all that stuff in the engine bay stock

I'm asking why not just cut the plug off and bridge it

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Running a new relay to the pump is purely for the pump to have it's own direct source of power. If the ecu never tells the pump to turn on, then the new relay will never get switched.

I would think bridging the connector would work just the same as completely bypassing it. It makes sense to me but I'm not 100% sure..