Hello,

I was about to supercharger my car, but i changed my mind and want to go for turboing my car. I don't want to any higher then the 8 psi @ which the wastgate is set

I've got myself a nice package already, which contains the following:
1) Exhaust manifold for T3
2) T3/T04 hybrid turbo
3) Universal extarnal wastgate (set @ 8 psi / 0.55 bar)
4) HKS Blow-off Valve
5) Oil feed (with restrictor) and return line
6) SARD fuel pressure regulator (is boost dependant -> gives higher pressure when boosting and lower when not boosting)
7) 4AGZE injectors or are they overdone? I do have some Silvertop/Blacktop injectors but don't if they'll fit.

What do i need more to complete this project?
I think i might need the following:
1) Downpipe but cannot find one yet
2) 2 BAR MAP sensor?
3) FMU 12:1 is this necessary?
4) FMI, maybe using the stock 4AGZE intercooler, would that be sufficient?
5) Change the timing a little to about 8 to 9 BTDC?
6) Air fuel gauge
7) Boost pressure gauge

Can i make it work (at first) without a piggyback hooked up? I'll go for this later on.

Do i need a BOV? I think it sounds ricey, so i prefer not mounting it.

thanks for all your advices!


Pictures:

You're missing the most important part: a tuning solution. Bigger injector and boost-referenced FPR is not the correct way to go. It's good stuff to have but you don't need either the FPR or the 12:1 FMU if you get at bare minimum a piggy-back ECU. Don't leave it for later on, it might be too late then.

AEM FIC, GReddy e-Manage Ultimate are two good ones.


If that's an eBay wastegate I have a tip for you: put red loctite on the threads of every vacuum nipple, they tend to back out and that makes the wastegate stay sealed shut. As for everything else, they work just like any other wastegate.

You don't need a BOV, a lot of cars have come without BOVs in the past and they haven't blown up like everyone would suggest. However no BOV will sound even louder than using a BOV. If you want to reduce noise, recirculate your BOV back into your compressor side. Mount the HKS BOV with the recirculation port and route a hose to a nipple on your compressor's intake (you'll have to get it welded)

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worse advise ever! i dont know of any factory turbo car that does not have some sort of recirculation to relieve pressure in the system.

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CBVs were invented to reduce noise emissions on factory turbo cars AFAIK, not because it was necessary for the longevity of the turbocharger.

Many race cars run without some kind of bypass valve, Rally cars at one point in time used CBVs but they resorted to using anti-lag systems instead of CBVs.

I know people who are running no BOV and have been for over a year and their turbo is still fine. Turbo flutter =/= turbo surge... Surge is bad, fluttering is just noisy. I know I'm going to be running no BOV for a while once I'm done. What's the worst that could happen? A chinese eBay turbo blows?

Piggy back ECU (Check my for sale thread), Wideband O2 sensor for tuning. These are the necessary two items for tuning.

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Do i really need that even for my low boosts?

Any pressure above your stock map sensor readings and it goes haywire since its not made from the factory to read for pressure above a certain amount. In general NA Motors were only tuned for vacuum.

Yes you need one. If youre using anything that doesnt clamp the stock map voltage then you need a 2 bar map sensor as well.

Unless you want to blow your engine dont skimp out on an ecu.

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>>YES>>

This post has been edited by lagos: Feb 5, 2013 - 1:04 PM

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That's clear haha.

I left the supercharging/turboing for what it is now. I need the cash badly Yes i'm changing like the weather what to do, but happily for me girlfriend i don't do that in relationships haha

I'm now thinking of saving some money for the 1MZ-FE or Redtop Beams swap. Maybe Redbeams is the way to go for me, because i only have FWD and too many torque will just eat my tires

you will not have tire issues. This is the same engine that comes in a Camry.

BEAMS vs 1MZ-FE:

1. Same power
2. Beams has less parts to replace vs a V6 but they cost so much more
3. The engine itself is more expensive, along with ecu and harness
4. V6 can be modified enough to make tons more power than the BEAMS, but the BEAMS comes maxed out from the factory, you can only do so little to it.

Will a 3VZ-FE also easily fit? They are more easy to get here in Holland.
Is it also easy to convert from auto to manual?

If anyone nows good places for these engines let me hear it :-)

Thanks!

3VZ-FE will fit just as difficult as the 1MZ-FE into the ST chassis. The 3VZ is heavier and comes with less HP than the 1MZ-FE I believe.

But yes, if you can get a 1MZ to fit, you can get a 3VZ to fit just as difficult/easily.

yes 3VZ will fit but its an Iron block so its going to be heavy as hell. it will be about the same for wiring. and like mentioned above, it make a lot less power.