So I just got this engine code today. What would be first priority to fix? 308,000 miles.

Book says:
Diagnosis - The air/fuel ratio is overly rich

Trouble Area:
Injector Circuit
Injector
Air Flow Meter
Cold Start Injector
ECM


As far as this engine noise, it only happens when it's pretty cold outside like low 30's or below.
http://youtu.be/EUxYJywN87k

does it run smooth? id run some injector cleaner through it. and when was the last time you replaced the primary o2 sensor? they should be changed with the spark plugs...

and for the knocking, probably unrelated but its probably rod knock or piston slap

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holy sh*t be more specific for some people thats 6000 miles.

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rotor, cap and o2 sensor if they haven't been done

air filter obviously...

the sound is your starter going out. it need the brushes replaced

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-Injector cleaner made the light go off.
No it does not run smooth while driving, I get engine surge, doesn't matter what gear or how fast. I use to have a low idle at 300RPM but that was fixed by installing an EGR valve.

The noise when I start my car is my starter, I just didn't know why it was doing that, definitely not a rod knock or piston slap.


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-I've done air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil within the past 10,000 miles, but I haven't done the o2 sensor for over 100K miles, but should I do both or just the first/top one?



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-It doesn't make that noise at all though when it's warm outside like today 54F.

This post has been edited by 6GenCircleLghts: Jan 12, 2013 - 3:52 PM

i guess itd help if i listed to the noise. LOL just those suggestions since its only when cold

the primary o2 is the one responsible for adjusting the fuel trim, the first one thats in the manifold, before the cat

still getting engine surge? i would look into the map, and tps, and their circuits. use the te2 + e1 combo and drive around and see if the cel pops on, then check codes

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-Yea the engine surge isn't overly bad, but it's definitely more noticeable in 3rd going around 25mph I can feel the car bucking more than at any other speed and I could only image what a by standard would say if they saw it happening, lol. I actually replaced the MAP and Igniter, ....could a vacuum leak cause that as well?

So I reset the codes by removing he EFI fuse for a minute, did the TE2 & E1 and drove around for a little like you said, no light came on, but when I do the TE1 & E1 I just get a fast blinking that doesn't stop now.

This post has been edited by 6GenCircleLghts: Jan 13, 2013 - 7:48 PM

That means there is no code stored. Drive it as you normally would and if the light comes back on, then you can pull the code again. Hypothetically, you should get another code with the 71, a code for a faulty sensor that might cause a rich AFR.

Take off your cap and rotor and look at the dizzy pickup, mine went back and it was causing crazy power surges because it would kill a cylinder and then fire it on the next cycle. I was lucky and got a remaned Toyota dizzy for cheap. It had caused the CEL to stay on (it went off a few drive cycles after the new dizzy was in) which is weird cause my CEL had been stuck on ever since it told me my ECT sensor was faulty so I never did check it again.

on a car that uses a MAP sensor, a vacuum leak would not cause a bucking issue.
the bucking is a misfire, either fuel or ignition related. these cars are old, it could be an ecu or wiring problem.. wayy too much to guess over the interwebs,

but from what you have said you replaced and the symptoms id make sure to do the o2 sensor and check out the tps and wiring for that and the map.
check continuity while wiggling the wire harness in all placed between sensor and ecu. pull up the tps test/adjustments part of the manual and do that, then go from there. if all checks out fine, its ecu. good way to know for sure if it IS the ecu (but not a sure fire way of ruling it out, though) is to open it up and look at the capacitors, if theyre leaky or bulging or discolored around the base, its for sure the ecu.