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pulling out and reusing the Gen III timing tensioner - 6G Celicas Forums

Topic #88032 11 posts Started by match220
I figured I would post this since I was having difficulty with it, I figure others would have difficulty with it too. I had to pull my timing tensioner off when I pulled my head off, so obviously I had to put it back on. It was rather easy to compress with a large wood clamp since my largest c-clamp is 1/2 inch too small, but finding something small and hard enough to hold the piston in once the two holes were lined up was pretty hard. I tried a few things that I thought would hold, and now I've lost some tiny tools. I eventually tried my smallest allen wrench when I figured it would be worth it to sacrifice it. It held and didn't bend at all. So hopefully someone will come across this if they have the same problem.

-Jay95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
I usually use the other half of a cotter pin and it works pretty good.
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QUOTE (soulshadow @ Nov 9, 2012 - 7:45 PM) *
>I usually use the other half of a cotter pin and it works pretty good.


really? I thought about using one, but the way it bent the large paper clip seemed like it would be a bad idea since the cotter pins are mostly soft and bendable. I'll try that when I retorque the head soon.

-Jay95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
i actually use my jack and truck. i put the tensioner on the jack and pinch it between the frame rail of my truck to compress it.

2001 Celica GT-S Turbo1997 Supra TT 6speed1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap1990 Celica All-Trac
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QUOTE (Smaay @ Nov 11, 2012 - 6:17 AM) *
>i actually use my jack and truck. i put the tensioner on the jack and pinch it between the frame rail of my truck to compress it.


That's hilarious..I thought about doing the same thing..lol. I was too afraid it would slip and fly off in another direction or damage something. Wood clamp works though and is safer..lol.

-Jay95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
Toyota actually ships new tensioners with a tiny allen key pushed through the two openings. The FSM suggests it too
Actually you guys will laugh, but I found the perfect thing for this. Go buy a set of mouse traps for .99c. The metal rod that arms the trap is EXACTLY the correct diameter to insert through the tensioners hole and strong enough to hold the force. Just cut that rod off with some wire cutters and there you go!

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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QUOTE (lagos @ Nov 14, 2012 - 8:49 PM) *
>Actually you guys will laugh, but I found the perfect thing for this. Go buy a set of mouse traps for .99c. The metal rod that arms the trap is EXACTLY the correct diameter to insert through the tensioners hole and strong enough to hold the force. Just cut that rod off with some wire cutters and there you go!


man that's awesome..lol. Any specific brand of mouse trap?

-Jay95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
lol the allen key works just fine and can be found in anyones basic tool box

by the same token you can use a screw driver if you dont have pins for your axel stands tongue.gif

Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs
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QUOTE (match220 @ Nov 15, 2012 - 4:58 AM) *
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QUOTE (lagos @ Nov 14, 2012 - 8:49 PM) *
>Actually you guys will laugh, but I found the perfect thing for this. Go buy a set of mouse traps for .99c. The metal rod that arms the trap is EXACTLY the correct diameter to insert through the tensioners hole and strong enough to hold the force. Just cut that rod off with some wire cutters and there you go!


man that's awesome..lol. Any specific brand of mouse trap?



I wanna say that it was those common Victor traps, but I'm not 100% on that.


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QUOTE (delusionz @ Nov 15, 2012 - 8:48 AM) *
>lol the allen key works just fine and can be found in anyones basic tool box



The tricky part is finding one that is small enough yet strong enough. I originally used an allen key but then it got all bent out of shape and I had to redo the timing.

15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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QUOTE (lagos @ Nov 15, 2012 - 3:51 PM) *
>The tricky part is finding one that is small enough yet strong enough. I originally used an allen key but then it got all bent out of shape and I had to redo the timing.


I used a black allen key, since it's most likely hardened steel, it was pretty tiny and didn't even bend. The silver ones might bend easier

-Jay95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve