I had trouble loading the firmware as stated above. It turned out that the problem was with a bad Microsquirt board (the one circuit board that actually comes preassembled). DIYAutotune replaced the board for free and now that issue is resolved. The only problem left is that I am not getting a good cam signal and the car wont start. I messed around with it for a bit and still have a few more things to try, but with school and the holidays, the project got put on the back burner...so yeah it kinda turned into a Dan project.

Any updates?

Are you using the stock distributor's sensor for cam signal?

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Yes, but I'm having trouble getting megasquirt to see it. You have MS2 on your car? How are you getting your cam signal?

I'm waiting till the end of this month to get back into this project once I actually have a bit of free time to waste. Its really just down to a single thing keeping it from running.

This post has been edited by lagos: Apr 16, 2013 - 8:31 PM

Yes, I'm using MS2. We tapped it directly at the distributor. Do yourself a favor and get a 98+ oil pump with crank sensor setup. Mine ran (before the engine died) and could be tuned and everything, but it never turned on right (sometimes sent spark with intake valves open, sounded like a loud scrape, like when you tighten a thick ziptie, and then smoke came out the throttle body)

You need a 98+ oil pump, the 98+ crank timing gear and the crank sensor. It's a 36-2 wheel and I'm pretty sure the MS2 has the capability to decode it. It's a little bit more work than you'd want, but it for sure is a much more reliable setup.

For full sequential, if you want, you could also get the bracket for the cam sensor, the cam sensor and the cam sprocket with the single tooth. My 98+ engine I bought recently had all of that on it. I don't have any part numbers on had right now, though, sorry about that.

EDIT: I don't know if you've opened the stock distributor to take a look at the trigger wheel, but it's not a regular trigger wheel. It's weird in that it's got 4 slanted tooth. It's pretty advanced for its time, something only the OEM ECU can decode.

Before I bought the new engine, I was going to do a different setup that worked on a friend's MR2. I was going to use a rev1 5sfe distributor and 420a coils. I bought the setup but never used it, if you'd like to try that for a less involved setup. You need to do a couple of things though. You need to make hybrid plug wires out of your 5S plug wires and the 420a plug wires I have (you need the connectors for the coils since they're HEI female-type, vs our Male-type connectors) and you need to align the 24-tooth trigger wheel on the distributor to TDC and calculate the tooth you need to dremel out for it to be a 24-1 trigger wheel which the MS2 can read perfectly, and it's got enough resolution for translation to Crank Position.

This post has been edited by Syaoran: Apr 16, 2013 - 9:00 PM

I also forgot to mention you'd need 2 BIP373 in your MS, because the coils are coils only, not coils with in-built igniters. So if you already have one, you'd just need to solder in another.

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Thanks for the advice, but its a little different with the DIYPNP and the basic MS2. The DIYPNP should have everything needed to decode the stock distributor. I have talked to at least one person who has their car running on it, and DIYAUTOTUNE developed an MSPNP based on it.

I'm getting a good clean crank signal from the distributor, but nothing shows up for the cam. Normally they tell you to use a resistor to "pull down" the threshold that the ecu is seeing with a 51kohm resistor. This is what they do to get their MSPNP units to work. However for me this did not work. I am taking my cam signal from the G1 input, and I'm thinking there might be some issue with my distributor. I'm going to rewire it to take the cam signal from G2 and see how that works. If I'm still having problems, I can run the signal through the LM185 conditioner, and hopefully that would resolve the issue. The real problem is that very few people have done this before, and there is no tutorial for me to just follow in someone's footsteps.

I really wish I had a spare 3sgte distributor here, just so that I could do all of this on the bench and spin the distributor with a drill. This would make things a lot easier to figure out, then to have to run out to the car everytime I make a small adjustment.

This post has been edited by lagos: Apr 16, 2013 - 9:40 PM

I forgot your DIYPNP is for the 3SGTE, right?

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I'm pretty sure I've got an extra distributor laying around that I had planned on rebuilding. I can send it to you if you'd like to borrow it.

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Yes. Are you running yours on a 5sfe?

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That would be awesome!

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Yep, the distributors are different, I believe. 3S distributor is more like the one I have that I was gonna modify (various teeth instead of the 4 slanted teeth)

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Haven't forgot about you. I need to find time to rummage through my storage shed to find it.

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Yeah its fine..whenever. PM me if you ever find it.

Small update on the project.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNjWKyVoZS4

Nice. Dyno run soon?

More like street tune, soon.

There may be some useful info about the distributor signals here-
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

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Thanks. There were really two small issues that were preventing me from getting the car running. One was that my injectors were not wired up by firing order for sequential injection. The other was that I was taking a cam signal form G1, when the basemap for MSPNP looks like its setup for G2. After switching to the G2 distributor cam pickup, the car fired right up!

I would have had this running a lot sooner, but everything got put on hold due to school, life, work, etc...

If anyone is interested, I can post up the 3sgte specific information needed to get the DIYPNP running on any 3s.

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I, for one, am interested. Probably going to be the next thing I do to my 3S after I replace the head gasket.

Nice work Art!

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thats AWESOME art!!
Definetly post up the info, if you have pics or anything, let me know, I can actually host them here on the site so that when we sticky it, the info will be there as long as the site is. lol

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Definitely interested, was kinda waiting for you to figure it out first Art

Nice work!

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Hahaha, really? Why am I the guinea pig?
You can order up your kit and start soldering. There is actually quite a bit of work to do before you get to the 3sgte specific portion.
I'll make a new how to thread in a few days or weeks. I want to make sure everything is finalized so that I don't have to make corrections later.

One thing I learned is that an EMS does not just solve all of your problems. If anything it creates brand new ones, but you do learn a lot. For example, just getting the car to free rev nicely and fall back to idle requires some know how. You would think that idle is purely related to your idle control valve, but actually your timing map plays a bigger role and there are some tricks you need to know. I finally got mine figured out.

Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get my injectors to cut off when I let off the throttle. Things like this you take for granted with your stock ecu.

One HUGELY helpful thing is AUTOTUNE. Its a feature of Tunerstudio (plan an extra 60 bucks in your budget, you're going to need this), that adjusts your VE map based on a target A/F ratio map that you provide. You just set it up and it fine tunes everything for you as you drive the car around. Beats sitting there with another person and trying to communicate what you want them to change. Its amazing that Haltech and a few other big name ecu's don't have this.

The timing map will probably also need to be dyno tuned. The one provided is just a base map, and far from perfect. In some areas the car had more power stock and other areas make my JS Safeguard light up like a tree.

But overall the car drives very smoothly and the ecu seems very reliable. Really surprising for something that started out as a bag of resistors on my desk.