painted the block over the weekend

Now it looks like it belongs in an old Ford.

I like it, Might I suggest Black Highlights-
My 4.0L I6 from my '64 Chevy Pickup

All the pistons look like they have seen their fair share of detonation. Who tuned it?

This post has been edited by anonymous: Sep 18, 2012 - 7:24 AM

ok lets get started with the assembly

here is the block, all nice a clean.



This is where the oil squirters go. they spray under the piston to help cool them when the engine is generating phenomenal power!



Squirters installed





Main bearings installed





Lay the crankshaft in the block, going to check clearances



Lay a strip of plastigauge on the journals





Install the main caps in the proper locations, apply the proper torque and check the clearance





Remove the caps and check the plastigauge. it spreads out and get measured for clearance







This shows .002 clearance = perfect!



Remove plastigauge from surfaces and then apply generous amounts of assembly lube and re-install the main caps to the proper torque



Check the ring gap. use a piston upside down and slide the ring down into the cylinder. i go the length of the piston. using feeler gauges check the gap of the rings. the piston paperwork will give you the proper gaps on a spec sheet.





looking at front of block, install new O-rings for oil pump and water pump



Apply a small bead of FIPG for around the oil pump to seal it. This is the first Toyota engine that doesn't have a gasket that I have come across.



Install oil pump




Install new rear main seal in the housing assembly



This is the #1 oil pan.



Apply FIPG around the pan to bond it to the block. dont forget to install the O-ring on the block.



Install Windage tray



Using new gasket install oil pickup







I didnt get a picture but install the #2 oil pan the same way with a bead of FIPG around the boarder.

Flip engine over and install the head studs





Lay head gasket on the deck





Oops, at this point I realized that the washers that get used with the ARP studs will not fit through the head and around the stud like this. What I ended up doing is removing the studs, applying the ARP moly lube to the nut end of the threads and the washers, then lowered the stud through the head and hand tightened them to the block. This way everything was properly lubed all around.



Another shot of the head with 1ZZ-FE shimless buckets.







GSC Stage 2 cams installed.







Looks like i missed a few steps, got the valve covers on, water pump is on and the water line.





Installed Billet timing belt tensioner pulley



Installed timing belt





Install lower belt cover, and accessory belt tensioner





Install upper belt cover

I like how there's a Traction Control label on the TB ... it's like ... "Just reminding you, this car has TC. As you were."

yeah, thats all gone, i have the fogger for my nitrous in there now

I enjoy threads like this that you put together.

Always a excellent amount of pictures and description

>


I would take a metal polisher to those 2JZ letters to make them shiny and stand out

HOW did I miss this thread???

The build looks great, and I like your attention to detail. Please keep posting picture laden updates

This thread delivers. I can't wait for dyno results and track times.

i should turn the key tonight

waiting.

key was turned, started right up. It smoked like crazy from all the residual oil in the turbo and exhaust. sounds awesome. i cant wait to do the final install parts. i didnt have the cooling stuff hooked up. i just wanted to make sure it runs.

Huzzah! Now we wait for videos.

How did this finish up since it looks like the thread hasn't been touched in a year? Did we hit 1000?

Well....Here is the latest.

On the dyno, oil started puking out of the front behind the crank pulley. After tearing down the engine, i discovered that the machine shop did not clean the block very well and metal shavings went through the engine. it destroyed all the bearings, the oil pump, and my cams. Luckily i was able to salvage the cams with a polish and Polydyne coating. I took the block back to the shop and hand them pull the oil passage plugs (steel balls) clean the block again, and then tap the holes for a real threaded plug.

I replaced the front seal, and all the bearings. Put it all back together and it is now back on the road. I did get a good base tune in the AEM before it died so now i just need some final tuning.

Well that's disappointing. Hopefully things will go smoothly from here. Keep us posted.

2JZ - as unreliable as the 3VZE....


Good luck. Want to see some official numbers when you're finished.