So i have done some reading about doing "the big 3", Anyways, I got my Celica a few weeks ago the wiring was already done. I did not realize the previous owner had already attempted the big 3. Well he did finish, BUT the wire is 16 gauge. So that defeats the purpose of doing it does it not? Should i just replace the wires with 2G wire or 4? And what exactly are the benefits of doing this, just more power?
"The Big 3" - 6G Celicas Forums
Id go more along the lines of 6-8. One reason for going larger on the wires is to carry more current. Like water in a hose, the smaller the hose the less water and more constriction, where as the larger, more flow, more water. Hope that makes since.
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Makes perfect sense! Thanks for the quick reply!, Another question, There is a fuse in the middle of the wire from the negative battery terminal grounded to the chassis. Does that need to be there or should i remove it when i put in the new wiring?
QUOTE (Lil-Joe101 @ Jun 25, 2012 - 6:25 PM) 
>Id go more along the lines of 6-8. One reason for going larger on the wires is to carry more current. Like water in a hose, the smaller the hose the less water and more constriction, where as the larger, more flow, more water. Hope that makes since.
Makes perfect sense! Thanks for the quick reply!, Another question, There is a fuse in the middle of the wire from the negative battery terminal grounded to the chassis. Does that need to be there or should i remove it when i put in the new wiring?
? Wtf are you talking about
95 gt coupe, v6 swap weekend toy99 gt hatch beams swapped wife's94 st hatch my daily driverhttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=82235n
Remove it but pace it on the postive side, The fuse is more of a safety net so u dont fry any circuits. If the negative wire is properly grounded there is no need to have it on the negative side, why it is is a mystery to me.
FromJapantoTexasmy st202 follows me.Being different from every angle of the word, leading the Revolution (TOYOTA NATION)The RHD st202 that made it from Japan check it out.http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=78103
>
Do you mean The big 3 or my whole question?, In regards to the big 3: Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring.
If you understand that you should understand my question lol
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Alright thanks a lot man i really appreciate it otherwise i would have no clue!
This post has been edited by caribou17: Jun 25, 2012 - 6:42 PM
QUOTE (kurt95gt @ Jun 25, 2012 - 7:35 PM)
>? Wtf are you talking about
Do you mean The big 3 or my whole question?, In regards to the big 3: Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis. Some people replace the factory wiring; others add additional cables to the factory wiring.
If you understand that you should understand my question lol
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QUOTE (Lil-Joe101 @ Jun 25, 2012 - 6:37 PM)
>Remove it but pace it on the postive side, The fuse is more of a safety net so u dont fry any circuits. If the negative wire is properly grounded there is no need to have it on the negative side, why it is is a mystery to me.
Alright thanks a lot man i really appreciate it otherwise i would have no clue!
This post has been edited by caribou17: Jun 25, 2012 - 6:42 PM
Ok i get it now. Thanks for the explanation
When i did my 1m swap i kinda did this i just donno what size the wires are i used
I do know the power wire is easily double the size of stock
An my grounds are from a 1200 watt grounding kit for an amp
an i have 4 of them from the engine to the chassis
When i did my 1m swap i kinda did this i just donno what size the wires are i used
I do know the power wire is easily double the size of stock
An my grounds are from a 1200 watt grounding kit for an amp
an i have 4 of them from the engine to the chassis
95 gt coupe, v6 swap weekend toy99 gt hatch beams swapped wife's94 st hatch my daily driverhttp://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=82235n
Use 4-2gauge wire. A GOOD, quality wire is welding cable. 1/0 is cheap and will be more than enough even for an upgraded alternator. A fuse holder, about 10-12 feet of wire, and 100 amp ANL fuse and good,tight crimp connections.
Wire #1: Alternator+ to Battery+ (FUSED)
Wire #2: Battery- to Chassis
Wire #3: Engine to Chassis
The idea of doing this is to have free-flowing current. The bigger the wire, the better. 8 gauge is small. Factory is around 8 gauge so you'd just be replacing the factory wiring.
Remember current, like fluids, flow down the path of least resistance. If you have an old, corroded 8 gauge wire and put in new 8 gauge, most likely it'll flow down the new one. It won't spread throughout both wires, it'll just travel down one. So use a minimum of 4 AWG.
Knukonceptz has the best wire for the money. (audio wire)
Welding cable is the best, and it's got a strong jacket made to withstand heat and abrasives, overall a harsh environment.
Wire #1: Alternator+ to Battery+ (FUSED)
Wire #2: Battery- to Chassis
Wire #3: Engine to Chassis
The idea of doing this is to have free-flowing current. The bigger the wire, the better. 8 gauge is small. Factory is around 8 gauge so you'd just be replacing the factory wiring.
Remember current, like fluids, flow down the path of least resistance. If you have an old, corroded 8 gauge wire and put in new 8 gauge, most likely it'll flow down the new one. It won't spread throughout both wires, it'll just travel down one. So use a minimum of 4 AWG.
Knukonceptz has the best wire for the money. (audio wire)
Welding cable is the best, and it's got a strong jacket made to withstand heat and abrasives, overall a harsh environment.
1993 Celica GT Coupe - sold1994 Celica GT Liftback
Agreed knuconceptz has some great wire that "pretty cheap" and 16 gauge wire doesn't make annnnyyyy sense, maybe its like 12? 16 would just melt, surprised it hasn't yet
And fuses do not go on the negative side, like again doesn't make any sense at all lol.
Most systems you really don't need more than a 4g wire. You can have more, won't hurt anything. But unless you have (and i forget the actual numbers) like 2500+ watts you don't need anything larger.
An not to get into a big discussion, but cheap amps that put out 2500W+ are not real putting that out. Theres a reason name brands cost more. because they don't lie as much lol. watts is not how much sound there is
And fuses do not go on the negative side, like again doesn't make any sense at all lol.
Most systems you really don't need more than a 4g wire. You can have more, won't hurt anything. But unless you have (and i forget the actual numbers) like 2500+ watts you don't need anything larger.
An not to get into a big discussion, but cheap amps that put out 2500W+ are not real putting that out. Theres a reason name brands cost more. because they don't lie as much lol. watts is not how much sound there is
I've spilt my heart into this car :) And I don't ever plan to stop- 6GC for Life ->Semper Fi<1994 Cupra :p 3sgte1995 Celica ST DD1969 Chevelle SSalllll balls. P2 approved!
As another said, welding cable. Its what I have put aside for my swap.
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I just searched up Knukonceptz the prices aren't bad at all if its quality and will last, I see that they just started shipping to Canada to so thats good for me! I think ill place an order sometime soon hopefully. Thanks for the explanation all this is so helpful!
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It said 16 gauge right on it thats the only reason i know haha, Yea after reading about doing this and looking at how small the wires were i was surprised and pretty confused, I'm glad i got it all figured out now though., Thanks for the reply!
QUOTE (Syaoran @ Jun 25, 2012 - 7:46 PM)
>Use 4-2gauge wire. A GOOD, quality wire is welding cable. 1/0 is cheap and will be more than enough even for an upgraded alternator. A fuse holder, about 10-12 feet of wire, and 100 amp ANL fuse and good,tight crimp connections.
Wire #1: Alternator+ to Battery+ (FUSED)
Wire #2: Battery- to Chassis
Wire #3: Engine to Chassis
The idea of doing this is to have free-flowing current. The bigger the wire, the better. 8 gauge is small. Factory is around 8 gauge so you'd just be replacing the factory wiring.
Remember current, like fluids, flow down the path of least resistance. If you have an old, corroded 8 gauge wire and put in new 8 gauge, most likely it'll flow down the new one. It won't spread throughout both wires, it'll just travel down one. So use a minimum of 4 AWG.
Knukonceptz has the best wire for the money. (audio wire)
Welding cable is the best, and it's got a strong jacket made to withstand heat and abrasives, overall a harsh environment.
Wire #1: Alternator+ to Battery+ (FUSED)
Wire #2: Battery- to Chassis
Wire #3: Engine to Chassis
The idea of doing this is to have free-flowing current. The bigger the wire, the better. 8 gauge is small. Factory is around 8 gauge so you'd just be replacing the factory wiring.
Remember current, like fluids, flow down the path of least resistance. If you have an old, corroded 8 gauge wire and put in new 8 gauge, most likely it'll flow down the new one. It won't spread throughout both wires, it'll just travel down one. So use a minimum of 4 AWG.
Knukonceptz has the best wire for the money. (audio wire)
Welding cable is the best, and it's got a strong jacket made to withstand heat and abrasives, overall a harsh environment.
I just searched up Knukonceptz the prices aren't bad at all if its quality and will last, I see that they just started shipping to Canada to so thats good for me! I think ill place an order sometime soon hopefully. Thanks for the explanation all this is so helpful!
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QUOTE (mgnt232 @ Jun 25, 2012 - 8:21 PM)
>Agreed knuconceptz has some great wire that "pretty cheap" and 16 gauge wire doesn't make annnnyyyy sense, maybe its like 12? 16 would just melt, surprised it hasn't yet
And fuses do not go on the negative side, like again doesn't make any sense at all lol.
Most systems you really don't need more than a 4g wire. You can have more, won't hurt anything. But unless you have (and i forget the actual numbers) like 2500+ watts you don't need anything larger.
An not to get into a big discussion, but cheap amps that put out 2500W+ are not real putting that out. Theres a reason name brands cost more. because they don't lie as much lol. watts is not how much sound there is
And fuses do not go on the negative side, like again doesn't make any sense at all lol.
Most systems you really don't need more than a 4g wire. You can have more, won't hurt anything. But unless you have (and i forget the actual numbers) like 2500+ watts you don't need anything larger.
An not to get into a big discussion, but cheap amps that put out 2500W+ are not real putting that out. Theres a reason name brands cost more. because they don't lie as much lol. watts is not how much sound there is
It said 16 gauge right on it thats the only reason i know haha, Yea after reading about doing this and looking at how small the wires were i was surprised and pretty confused, I'm glad i got it all figured out now though., Thanks for the reply!