Ok so my ISCV seized so i had to pull it apart to soak in carby cleaner.
Heres how it works, theres 3 wires, pin#2 is positive, pins #1&3 are ground.
Grounding out the left side it closes it, grounding out the right side it opens it.
It basically powers an electro magnet to magnetically motion the door open or shut.
What I found was, it wouldnt free up right away, I had to let it soak for an hour and keep spraying and trying to turn until the grit has dislodged.
Then there was this gasket here, because I didn't have a spare I had to some how manage it back in there while it was warped and expanded. I did this by putting it in the freezer for a little while and then using a few drops of Ados glue to hold it in
Anyhow, I got it fully working now with good cold(1400rpm) start and warm(900) idle, however I noticed a few problems with the design.
1. the standard clamps on the water lines dont hold a good seal and should be replaced.
2. even in the ISCV's fully closed position, by charging the left pin, i could still blow air through it, indicating this is a major boost leak as this is plumbed to the air filter(atmo), and not to a pressurised source like the intercooler, so i propose welding a new breather nipple into the intercooler and securing the hose on both ends with good clamps.
I wanted to invoke some discussion on this as Toyota could have designed it this way if they wanted to but chose not to, and also, what about alternatives such as external stepper motor or 2 wire solenoid units, how would you convert the 3 wire pwm signal...
PS. While on the subject of factory boost leaks, I found the PCV valve can be blown through aswell, I've ditched the factory pcv setup in favour of dash 10 fittings and catch tank. Same goes for the power steering idle up valve which can be ditched, and the port on the back of the manifold capped off.
This post has been edited by delusionz: Jun 16, 2012 - 7:27 AM
Heres how it works, theres 3 wires, pin#2 is positive, pins #1&3 are ground.
Grounding out the left side it closes it, grounding out the right side it opens it.
It basically powers an electro magnet to magnetically motion the door open or shut.
What I found was, it wouldnt free up right away, I had to let it soak for an hour and keep spraying and trying to turn until the grit has dislodged.
Then there was this gasket here, because I didn't have a spare I had to some how manage it back in there while it was warped and expanded. I did this by putting it in the freezer for a little while and then using a few drops of Ados glue to hold it in
Anyhow, I got it fully working now with good cold(1400rpm) start and warm(900) idle, however I noticed a few problems with the design.
1. the standard clamps on the water lines dont hold a good seal and should be replaced.
2. even in the ISCV's fully closed position, by charging the left pin, i could still blow air through it, indicating this is a major boost leak as this is plumbed to the air filter(atmo), and not to a pressurised source like the intercooler, so i propose welding a new breather nipple into the intercooler and securing the hose on both ends with good clamps.
I wanted to invoke some discussion on this as Toyota could have designed it this way if they wanted to but chose not to, and also, what about alternatives such as external stepper motor or 2 wire solenoid units, how would you convert the 3 wire pwm signal...
PS. While on the subject of factory boost leaks, I found the PCV valve can be blown through aswell, I've ditched the factory pcv setup in favour of dash 10 fittings and catch tank. Same goes for the power steering idle up valve which can be ditched, and the port on the back of the manifold capped off.
This post has been edited by delusionz: Jun 16, 2012 - 7:27 AM
Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs
