Might need the forum guys help on this if you've already experienced it. Can't seem to find the right results from the search function.

I have play in the rear calipers. My guess is thats either normal or abnormal. So if its abnormal I'm guessing this is the pins causing the pad to move, and i get some clunks.

1. Do I just regrease the slider pins? I noticed the top is not a bolt, didn't really look at it but if anyone has some insight how this is removed that would make me anticipate better but either way I can take a look at it.

2. Do I just get new calipers? which would solve the problem anyway.

3. Get new brake pads.

4. Buy new Pins and just replace it?

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 16, 2012 - 11:54 AM

Play in the pads s in a cluking sound or something you feel when holding it?

I ask ones my mechanic which is also a friend of mine about the calipers play and he said me it is normal to have some play it makes it more efficient.
If it clunks I am guessing you might need to grease your caliper pins with silicon grease or at least a grease that is functional at high temps, as it might get hot. This is what another member suggested to me a long time ago but I din't had the time to do and because my brakes are still good I don't won't to mess with them until I will need new brakes so I will replace my pads, springs and everything that I can find in a kit from the local dealer.
Also I have found that that my rear brake pads are loose so I m thinking that the springs that holding them need to be replaced.

In a small search that I have done I found a kind of grease that called ''disc brake quiet'' but I din't use it. It is just a thought I don't know if you had any experience with it I would like to learn more about it. They install it between the pads, springs and the shims.

I also find this how to for an other car but it might give you an idea.
http://newbeetle.org/forums/technical-how/...front-rear.html

not sure if play is normal. cus front caliper is tight. i felt the caliper from another car both calipers r tight front n back. can neone confirm. if not it may be the top strut nut is loose on the coilover. i already checked the suspension and changed some stuff....just need more opinions.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 16, 2012 - 11:44 AM

I also have some play on the rear calipers and my front right, but the front left one is tight. I experiencing clunking noises at the rear brakes too.
Check also if your pads are tight in the caliper. I have found that mine are tight on the outer sides but the have a lot of play at the piston sides, there is a spring that is visible from the inner sides you can move it and you might be able to replicate the clunk.

Pads are tight in the rear, but when the hand brakes are up and the tires are lifted, I can move both wheels forward a little bit until it locks. but both appears to have the same reaction on both sides, but sound only comes from the right. I will need to look into it more. for the calipers I can grab and flex it left to right a bit if you are looking at it from the wheel.

I'll figure it out...

When you found out please let us know!
Good luck!

gonna go at it this weekend, i'm sure I'll find it. because i have to, it irritates me.

Check the parking brake hardware. I had a clunk which I could not for the life of me track down, until I ran out of suspension and other parts to check and looked at my e-brake assembly.

The e-brake shoes are held against the backing plate by hold-down springs. The springs are kept under tension with pins. One of those pins is bent so that it curves to accommodate the shoe -- and my passenger-side curved pin had straightened out partway. This meant less compression of the hold-down spring, which in turn meant the shoe wasn't being held as tightly. A bump of the right type and the shoe would slap against the backing plate producing a distinctively metal-on-metal clank.

Correction was simple enough, I just re-bent the pin into shape. That was a few years ago and it hasn't un-bent itself. I did find that the first time I re-bent the pin it straightened back out after a while, but I think that was because I didn't curve it deeply enough to hold the shoe completely flat; allowing a little movement meant the shoe could tap the pin straight, while keeping it flat means no inertia to work against the pin.

i guess that would apply if i had drums, rear brakes just have the floating guide pins and bolt.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 20, 2012 - 12:04 AM

Your rear disc brakes don't incorporate a cable-operated drum-style parking brake? That's quite unusual for a Toyota and the first time I've heard of a Celica without it.

Do your rear brakes look like this?


If so, that large hat on the rotor is the parking brake drum. If they don't, please post pictures and parts numbers, I'd be quite interested as I thought I was familiar with all of the stock brake setups for the fifth- and sixth-gen Celicas.

This post has been edited by Galcobar: Jun 20, 2012 - 5:59 PM

not saying that, drum brakes are installed differently and have a lot of different components. a disc brake set up is less complicated. all you have is the caliper, rotor, pads and pins/bolts, ebrake cable is standard, basically the disc set up is more easier to deal with. I really doubt the issue is with the cable. its dealing with rotational sound on slow moving. ebrake related functions operate normal. im gonna work on it this weekend, I'm sure i'll find out whats wrong. i just thought there was some common clunk in our cars. Nonetheless, all i have to do is inspect and find the source. I'm going between a defective endlink or pillow ball bearing or top strut nut.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 20, 2012 - 6:22 PM

I'm sorry, I'm still not clear. Are your rear brakes the standard drum-in-disc setup for a Celica, with a shoe-based parking brake incorporated into the caliper-based driving brakes, or are you using a system which only has calipers? Again, if you have a system where the parking brake is incorporated into the caliper I'd love to get the details.

That picture is of my rear brakes. If you pull the rotor off, you'll find a small drum brake setup with all the usual hardware. Smaller, yes, but still all the same components sans a hydraulic wheel cylinder.

As for regreasing the sliders, you're correct that the caliper is only held to the caliper bracket with one bolt. To get the caliper off the bracket, you simply remove the one visible bolt, then slide the caliper off the bracket. However, this can only be done after the caliper and bracket have been removed from the rotor.

The caliper doesn't actually slid on pins; rather, it slides on metal bushings. One bushing is held to the caliper by a rubber dust boot -- this is the bolt you remove when releasing the caliper from the bracket. The other bushing is bolted to the caliper bracket, aka torque plate -- the bolt head is hiding under that plain cap. The pin boot -- yes Toyota identifies a pin boot but no pins -- seals the point where the caliper slides onto the bushing which is bolted to the bracket. Properly you should use soap base glycol grease to lubricate the brakes; at a minimum use a non-petroleum lubricant to avoid damaging the rubber components.

right its on metal bushings. I've did some replacements like sway bar bushings and I relooked at my coilover fasteners/nut. Seems to be coming from the endlinks. I've went ahead and asked for warranty replacement since MOOG is lifetime. The weird part is that both rear disc brakes left and right both has play but the sound is coming from the rear right only. I would not think it is the coilover shock because it only has a few thousand miles and at the same time, it does not have the same sound when the car is in regular driving. Regular driving the car sounds normal, if shocks were done, it would make the sound consistently on at least good bumps. But again, my last things I will go through the process is the endlinks next, and then go back to the coilover shocks just to be sure. Thats where I am pinpointing it back to.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 24, 2012 - 3:06 AM

Im getting two warrantied endlinks from Rockauto since MOOG has great replacement warranty same as good rockauto service. if the problem still lies, im gonna look into the rear calipers. i just checked out my friends body shop and different makes and models, american, subie, nissan, and honda all have no play in the rear calipers. that will be my next project, either rebuild the calipers with new pins or just buy reman toyota aisen calipers from rockauto, just the semi-loaded ones will do. my pistons are not stuck cus i got good rotational spin on it.

I confirmed its not the coilover because i just retorqued the top nut and the strut tower nuts, same problem. shocks have no consistent signs of going bad when i drive it only when going slow. on mcpherson struts i cannot be getting bind because that problem mostly arises from the front when turning but see i dont necessarily have the problem when turning, so I am left with endlinks since thats the last thing i changed before i noticed it and then move on to the brakes. I'm gonna remove the wheel and look if anythings hitting around it and also see if theres anything else wrong with the brake system. I cannot rely on the endlinks because car parts sometimes break down coincidently. I'll keep yall updated when I get the endlinks. after that we'll see.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 25, 2012 - 2:45 AM

I really don't think there should be any play in the rear calipers for reference. My extra diagnostics are pointing to rear calipers now. Ordering.....

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 27, 2012 - 2:22 AM

Checked all my suspension, changed bushings, checked coilovers, retorqued suspension, and replicated sound.

Rockauto Semi-loaded Centric Calipers w/ Brackets and OEM pads going on next week when they arrive. Really cheap stuff but there are decent reviews online plus they own the divisions of Powerslot and Stoptech so i would assume some type of quality.

I caught the handbrake and calipers not locking immediately when I grab the wheel or push the bumper. Looks like the caliper is flexing and hitting metal when I push the car or grab on the wheel. Rockauto calipers after core is cheaper to buy 31 bucks + shipping and I bought two of the semi-loaded rather than praying doing a repair kit works.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 29, 2012 - 2:05 AM

I'd still like to see your rear brake setup if it lacks a discrete parking brake assembly.