my engine bay doesnt really have enough space for some reason even though i have a stock(ish) 5s. so im looking to relocate my battery to the trunk.


two things...the previous owner(s) really kept effin the terminals so the wire which connects to my positive terminal, is really short so thats causing my battery be closer to the engine and hence taking more space. so either i relocate my battery or just extend those wires.


so the question is:
1. how to relocate a battery for a noob?
2. how to extend those wires without buying a new harness?



i would obviously choose the easier/cheaper option so please help.
thank you in advance

there is a small wire u can just crimp another small gauge wire to it to extend the wire, and a bigger maybe 4ga wire you can just replace with an autozone switch to starter wire, or u can get the type that is a positive terminal with the 4ga wire already in it.

relocating it would take a lot of 2 gauge wire running from your positive terminal to your starter and then the smaller wire to your starter too... then just ground the battery to a good chassis point wherever u put it.

just buy a smaller battery and leave it in the front?


IDK. Toyota relocated my battery for me

>


but what about that bs autozone and other parts store give u when i ask them for a different size battery...i asked them last time when i was getting a battery, they said if "i get a smaller sized battery, its gonna mess up the cars electrical system and life" even though i was just askin for the same 12v just shorter height battery.

>


(if relocating)
hmm so in short just connect the positive wires to the starter and ground the battery?
sorry didnt quite understand that concept?

(extending the wires)

lets say i got the terminal with the wire in it, when im connecting the new and old wires, should i solder them or just twist them together and just tape/cover it up?

http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showto...ery++relocation

In both of my battery relocations, I just ran some 4 gauge wire to the trunk for the positive lead and hooked it up to the positive cable in the engine bay. Then I grounded the battery to the chassis and added an extra ground between the factory ground spot on the tranny and the chassis. Works like a charm.

use a crimp connection. if u can, solder them as well.

ok i think i somewhat understand the concept.

i was just thinking, can i just use the wires i have for my subwoofers, when i got them installed, theres a red wire going from the battery to the trunk, but im not sure if >>its thick enough>> or is 'enough gauge'


it was somewhat a basic setup so maybe u can guess what kind of wires are ussually used?


and instead of me soldering them or something another connection,

why not just get a 4 gauge wire, run it from the trunk to the hood, one end of the wire have a terminal for the battery, and other have a terminal like this

and then when im connecting the thing under the hood, just put it under the bolt of my old battery terminal which i currently have rite now, some what like my sub setup?


>>will that work?>>



something like this

Exactly. Just make sure your chassis is still grounded to the motor because the car has rubber motor mounts so it isn't going to ground itself. There is one very small ground going from the tranny to the motor, but I opted for an 8 gauge ground. Better to have some overkill than fry your car.

>


so yes to my 'idea' or yes to my understanding?


and are there any negative affects from doing this?

Exactly like your diagram. I would either use a 2 or 4 gauge wire, nothing smaller. In the battery relocation thread that I linked, you'll notice that some people mentioned that their car didn't start as well, that it almost acted like a dying battery. Mine does the same, but the car still starts. As far as running accessories, it doesn't act like the battery is any different. You'll want to find a way to secure the battery to make sure it doesn't go sliding around. I opted for a plastic battery box typically used for boats. It cost me like $10, 25 feet of 4 gauge wire was like $30, a battery cable splice was like $3 or $4, and I drilled a hole in the firewall to run the wire through, so you'll want to pick up a grommet for that as well. One negative effect is that the battery does let off fumes, but the fumes are so minimal that they really don't count because you'll still be opening your doors and your trunk which will let the fumes out.

As far as that ring connector goes, you'll want something heavier duty than that. You'll have a lot of power going through a tiny ring connector. Your best bet is to take the factory terminal off of the factory wire and put a battery cable splice or junction block between the factory positive wire and your new wire going to the trunk.

This post has been edited by richee3: Jul 20, 2011 - 1:03 AM

I have 0 gauge wire running between the batteries between the front and rear of my car. with the front battery disconnected it still cranks just like it would in a stock setup. so i would opt for a 2 gauge if you can. now remember if u go smaller, anytime your battery is low u might not be able to start your car cause of the extra power it takes to run the length in the smaller cable. 4ga cable cranks slow with full battery means 4ga with low battery = no crank