My rear arms are solid and I can't adjust them. I have too much negative camber. Camber bolts gives too little effect as I need to loose about 2 degs. Any thoughts on how to correct this?
too much negative camber - 6G Celicas Forums
your rear arms are solid? hmm the only thing i can think of that would be hard and most likely not safe, but drill new holes for the struts on top.
It takes 8,460 bolts to assemble an automobile, and one nut to scatter it all over the road.Celica: The name is derived from the Spanish word for "heavenly" or "celestial".Back-2-Back July COTM 15&16
Do you use BC coilovers?
I have the same thing, with the drop comes alot of negative camber. hell I have so much negative camber I had to put wheel spacers to stop my tyres rubbing the springs.
Apparently BC has optional ST205 camber tophats for the rear that you can order.
I have the same thing, with the drop comes alot of negative camber. hell I have so much negative camber I had to put wheel spacers to stop my tyres rubbing the springs.
Apparently BC has optional ST205 camber tophats for the rear that you can order.
Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs
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I was the first in the UK (maybe in the world) to have fitted the BC coilovers and wrote a review on them.
I never had the problem with wheel rub with my rims and also at the time they never came with adjustable top mounts.
However even now with adjustable top mounts in the rear, the only way you can move them out enough to correct the camber is by cutting into hole at the top more for the strut to move out enough because the circular hole is too small.
QUOTE (delusionz @ Apr 18, 2011 - 12:16 AM) 
>Do you use BC coilovers?
I have the same thing, with the drop comes alot of negative camber. hell I have so much negative camber I had to put wheel spacers to stop my tyres rubbing the springs.
Apparently BC has optional ST205 camber tophats for the rear that you can order.
I have the same thing, with the drop comes alot of negative camber. hell I have so much negative camber I had to put wheel spacers to stop my tyres rubbing the springs.
Apparently BC has optional ST205 camber tophats for the rear that you can order.
I was the first in the UK (maybe in the world) to have fitted the BC coilovers and wrote a review on them.
I never had the problem with wheel rub with my rims and also at the time they never came with adjustable top mounts.
However even now with adjustable top mounts in the rear, the only way you can move them out enough to correct the camber is by cutting into hole at the top more for the strut to move out enough because the circular hole is too small.
raise the car back up just enough to get an adjustment with the camber bolts ( +/- 1 degree ? )
I'm running 225/50ZR16 tyres, If I was running 215's like stock spec they wouldn't scrub
Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs
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sorry but camber bolts are rubbish and I barely get 1 deg on them also I don't want to raise my ride height any more.
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I am running 225/40/18's with Millenium Revolution.
I think to resolve this I'm going to need new camber control arms but stock ones don't go in enough so maybe have to make my own.
QUOTE (Culpable04 @ Apr 18, 2011 - 4:06 PM)
>raise the car back up just enough to get an adjustment with the camber bolts ( +/- 1 degree ? )
sorry but camber bolts are rubbish and I barely get 1 deg on them also I don't want to raise my ride height any more.
>
QUOTE (delusionz @ Apr 18, 2011 - 5:57 PM)
>I'm running 225/50ZR16 tyres, If I was running 215's like stock spec they wouldn't scrub
I am running 225/40/18's with Millenium Revolution.
I think to resolve this I'm going to need new camber control arms but stock ones don't go in enough so maybe have to make my own.
yeah shorter swingarms.
So you do have the camber tophats in the rear and it didn't help?
with shorter swingarms that will narrow the track so you'll need to run spacers.
the reason your 225's dont scrub and mine do is because i have factory wheels with ET45 offset. you probably have ET40 or less on those 18's which is enough to clear it.
I only needed 5mm slipon spacers to do the job, but those are illegal in my country so i got bolt on hub centric 15mm spacers effectively giving me factory 16x7.5 ET30
This post has been edited by delusionz: Apr 19, 2011 - 3:05 AM
So you do have the camber tophats in the rear and it didn't help?
with shorter swingarms that will narrow the track so you'll need to run spacers.
the reason your 225's dont scrub and mine do is because i have factory wheels with ET45 offset. you probably have ET40 or less on those 18's which is enough to clear it.
I only needed 5mm slipon spacers to do the job, but those are illegal in my country so i got bolt on hub centric 15mm spacers effectively giving me factory 16x7.5 ET30
This post has been edited by delusionz: Apr 19, 2011 - 3:05 AM
Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs
>
ET13
QUOTE (delusionz @ Apr 19, 2011 - 4:03 AM)
>yeah shorter swingarms.
So you do have the camber tophats in the rear and it didn't help?
with shorter swingarms that will narrow the track so you'll need to run spacers.
the reason your 225's dont scrub and mine do is because i have factory wheels with ET45 offset. you probably have ET40 or less on those 18's which is enough to clear it.
I only needed 5mm slipon spacers to do the job, but those are illegal in my country so i got bolt on hub centric 15mm spacers effectively giving me factory 16x7.5 ET30
So you do have the camber tophats in the rear and it didn't help?
with shorter swingarms that will narrow the track so you'll need to run spacers.
the reason your 225's dont scrub and mine do is because i have factory wheels with ET45 offset. you probably have ET40 or less on those 18's which is enough to clear it.
I only needed 5mm slipon spacers to do the job, but those are illegal in my country so i got bolt on hub centric 15mm spacers effectively giving me factory 16x7.5 ET30
ET13
you have ET13 wheels? lol they must stick out out the guards alot
you rolled the bottom lip?
you rolled the bottom lip?
Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs
If you're only getting 1 degree from camber bolts then you're doing it wrong.
1991 MR2 - T-tops - Crimson Red - Gen3 3SGTE - Lots of moneyI'm not really an asshole, but I play one on the internet.**** Photobucket
I just had an idea. can't you replace the rear solid lateral arm with another front lateral adjustable arm? that way you all the lateral arms are adjustable? and just shorten the arms to give more positive camber change.
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You could always modify the stock arms to make them adjustable. They are hollow units, measure up from the outter mount about 2 or 3" and slice out about an inch. Tap the inside of the arm and thread in a stud. Tap the other side and adjust. I don't believe it would weaken the unit.
This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 19, 2011 - 1:21 PM
This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 19, 2011 - 1:21 PM
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Nope. Fits perfectly flushed in the front and I'm going to put 20mm in the rears to make them match.
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How so? I didn't think it's physically imposable to adjust them in any other way.
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Yes which is why I think the only way forward is to make my own.
Maybe I'll source a set of stock ones and send it off or maybe buy a set of BMW control arms and modify them.
The question is how much shorter should I go?
QUOTE (delusionz @ Apr 19, 2011 - 9:05 AM)
>you have ET13 wheels? lol they must stick out out the guards alot
you rolled the bottom lip?
you rolled the bottom lip?
Nope. Fits perfectly flushed in the front and I'm going to put 20mm in the rears to make them match.
>
QUOTE (95CelicaST @ Apr 19, 2011 - 9:24 AM)
>If you're only getting 1 degree from camber bolts then you're doing it wrong.
How so? I didn't think it's physically imposable to adjust them in any other way.
>
QUOTE (azian_advanced @ Apr 19, 2011 - 11:04 AM)
>I just had an idea. can't you replace the rear solid lateral arm with another front lateral adjustable arm? that way you all the lateral arms are adjustable? and just shorten the arms to give more positive camber change.
>
QUOTE (playr158 @ Apr 19, 2011 - 2:20 PM)
>You could always modify the stock arms to make them adjustable. They are hollow units, measure up from the outter mount about 2 or 3" and slice out about an inch. Tap the inside of the arm and thread in a stud. Tap the other side and adjust. I don't believe it would weaken the unit.
Yes which is why I think the only way forward is to make my own.
Maybe I'll source a set of stock ones and send it off or maybe buy a set of BMW control arms and modify them.
The question is how much shorter should I go?
Where do the camber bolts go anyways? Do they replace the swingarm bolt? Because I don't see any way of adjusting camber back there except for the top suspension mounting position and the swingarm length. its the only way to tilt the rear wheels back and forth.
it's different to an st202/st204 back there which has a thin piece of crap arm with a long adjusting nut built into it. such a weak design would fail on a GT4 as you gotta remember these wheels have to deal with more weight and a transfer of 50% engine torque
and this arm holds up the whole rotating assembly including the wheel and the hub
it's different to an st202/st204 back there which has a thin piece of crap arm with a long adjusting nut built into it. such a weak design would fail on a GT4 as you gotta remember these wheels have to deal with more weight and a transfer of 50% engine torque
and this arm holds up the whole rotating assembly including the wheel and the hub
Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs
Here.
1991 MR2 - T-tops - Crimson Red - Gen3 3SGTE - Lots of moneyI'm not really an asshole, but I play one on the internet.**** Photobucket
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I wouldn't section out more than an inch.
You can always cut more off...adding back isn'tas easy.
QUOTE (yellowchinaman @ Apr 19, 2011 - 5:25 PM)
>>
Yes which is why I think the only way forward is to make my own.
Maybe I'll source a set of stock ones and send it off or maybe buy a set of BMW control arms and modify them.
The question is how much shorter should I go?
QUOTE (playr158 @ Apr 19, 2011 - 2:20 PM)
>You could always modify the stock arms to make them adjustable. They are hollow units, measure up from the outter mount about 2 or 3" and slice out about an inch. Tap the inside of the arm and thread in a stud. Tap the other side and adjust. I don't believe it would weaken the unit.
Yes which is why I think the only way forward is to make my own.
Maybe I'll source a set of stock ones and send it off or maybe buy a set of BMW control arms and modify them.
The question is how much shorter should I go?
I wouldn't section out more than an inch.
You can always cut more off...adding back isn'tas easy.
I had a brain storm
If a camber bolt gives +/- 1.75 degs.
What if I put a bolt at the bottom hole as well as the top?
Will that give me about 3 degs?
If a camber bolt gives +/- 1.75 degs.
What if I put a bolt at the bottom hole as well as the top?
Will that give me about 3 degs?
im thinking, weld up the mounting holes and redrill them, then use st205 optional rear camber tophats to get them even on both sides
Actually , stuff the tophats, custom adjustable swingarms FTW
This post has been edited by delusionz: Jul 29, 2011 - 8:08 PM
Actually , stuff the tophats, custom adjustable swingarms FTW
This post has been edited by delusionz: Jul 29, 2011 - 8:08 PM
Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs