Needles

#91

i just start my swap yesterday at 8:00h pm. so my mom boyfriend just finish installing his big car lift in the garage and im the first one working on it i stoped at 1am , so i just need to unplug ecu and unbolt the 4 mount, everything else is done, i hope finish it before thuesday... i will put pic later, thanks to all 6gc member for ALL the info and to make this project possible

Needles

#92

second day,. i worked all day long ,
starting by onbolt the engine and tranny mount and pull out the 5sfe


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my old front crossmember


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the crack in the side


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the new one


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3sgte going in

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engine bolt in


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now i had some problem since the bolt on the reart mount are striped so no rear mount for now
when i move the shifter its weird, but it seem to work (gt cable)

i have choose to extend the wiring engine to the computer, i will do that tommorow

Needles

#93

i have some question, plz can someone answer it ?
those should be easy to anwser for any who did the swap

so

question#1 where does this fuel line goes ?



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question#2 where u plug this plastic bottle (the bottom of it)


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question #3 where do i plug that line ?



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question #4 how u setup this to this to this ?? plz


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question #5 where is the plug for this (lead prestone to the chargercooler) smic)






question# 6
where does that one goes ?


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questin #7 and finally this one , i dont know where it goes ?


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question#8 where this 2 plus goes ??


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thank for any help

This post has been edited by Needles: Mar 29, 2011 - 11:51 PM

Needles

#94

all nproblem fixed,
thanks for help, im waiting tonight my friend will extend my wiring, everything is on place

THANKS to pressure2 , he anwser it all in turbo forum

This post has been edited by Needles: Oct 9, 2011 - 8:58 PM

Needles

#95

today i just finish fixing everything, but when i tried to start the car , it does notting, no crank, i only have power to my light , someone else did had this problem before ? ?

mkernz22

#96

it's called research man.

brenton1919

#97

>

QUOTE (Needles @ Apr 4, 2011 - 7:57 PM)

>today i just finish fixing everything, but when i tried to start the car , it does notting, no crank, i only have power to my light , someone else did had this problem before ? ?

send your harness to tweak i bet its wired wrong ?

Needles

#98

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i think the wiring is good
i will try this tommorow: from what i can tell with the wiring

the 205 starter relay runs its power through the 7.5a ST fuse where as on the 204 it gets directed through the 7.5a IGN fuse. I jumped that so now when i turn the key it opens the relay for the starter and the starter goes on.

so when you turn the key to the position that the car would normally run in the starter stays on? The other relay box that sits up near the rad holds the intercooler pump relay, fuel pump relay and dimmer relay. Also the fuses for the left and right high beams. What is the current problem? Because there is nothing in this box that should give you trouble with the starter circuit.

You can wire around it, I think... look at the diagrams and fake it. You will have to wire your fuel pump to recieve full voltage all the time (getting rid of the fuel pump resistor).

At this point, you should be able to start your car with the B+ and FP pins jumpered in the diagnostics connector in the engine bay.

brenton1919

#99

>

QUOTE (Needles @ Apr 6, 2011 - 2:15 PM)

>

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i think the wiring is good
i will try this tommorow: from what i can tell with the wiring

the 205 starter relay runs its power through the 7.5a ST fuse where as on the 204 it gets directed through the 7.5a IGN fuse. I jumped that so now when i turn the key it opens the relay for the starter and the starter goes on.

so when you turn the key to the position that the car would normally run in the starter stays on? The other relay box that sits up near the rad holds the intercooler pump relay, fuel pump relay and dimmer relay. Also the fuses for the left and right high beams. What is the current problem? Because there is nothing in this box that should give you trouble with the starter circuit.

You can wire around it, I think... look at the diagrams and fake it. You will have to wire your fuel pump to recieve full voltage all the time (getting rid of the fuel pump resistor).

At this point, you should be able to start your car with the B+ and FP pins jumpered in the diagnostics connector in the engine bay.

I know for a fact that there is more than making your wires longer for the st205 there are sum other wires that need to be moved and stuff i watch the guys do it from ATS but i cant remember wat wires they were so long ago lol but i hope u gett it working because i know ATSRACING will charge u around 2500 to 3000 to fix your wires and tweak well lol lets just say i tried to do my caldina harness by my self lol yeah i had to pay him a 1000 dollars to fix it lol so i really hope u get it working if would have just sent them to tweak from the start yyou would have been lookin at like 5 something but noww whooo knowwwwssss lol but i dont know to much about st205's but if you ever get a caldina i got u i know alot about the caldina engines

Needles

#100

850 hp pikes peaK celica 4x4 video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5WfSZBPosI...feature=related

Needles

#101

im waiting for help before toutching that, i will created plug for water pump intercooler and intercooler and fuel bybass,

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 10, 2011 - 1:34 PM

mkernz22

#102

you're going to ruin your car man. get the wiring done by a professional because there is a decent amount that you have to change on it.

btw, 3 day swap my a$$ haha

Needles

#103

>

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Apr 11, 2011 - 7:55 AM)

>you're going to ruin your car man. get the wiring done by a professional because there is a decent amount that you have to change on it.

btw, 3 day swap my a$$ haha

lol 3 day swap , hahaha right, i was a dumb ass
btw am 99% sure the wire are well done

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 11, 2011 - 4:09 PM

Needles

#104

the problem was bad connection of positive to the starter (baddly connected on the starter) now my starting circuit working fine,
the problem is i think i missed some ground or something cause the ground wire on the engine to front body just fried totally burn when i put the ignition to on position, at the same time my light go low

now all working fine, but before i try start my car again, i wanna find where it goes wrong whit the ground...maybe i missed one to firewall

SupraKid

#105

Your either missing a ground or the grounds are not good enough.

Needles

#106

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lK2witvI_UY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m8gJe-oUV0

1994 and 1995 celica commercial


This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 22, 2011 - 12:06 AM

delusionz

#107

I still don't understand where you got the idea to rip apart the loom and twist wires together and tape them up before bothering to read pinouts, before checking grounds, before securing connections

Especially a whole bunch of wires at a time.

Seriously man what were you thinking?

I told you those wires you made to the starter motor were fuct up and what to check and jump and circuit test etc but you several times insisted on playing with your headlights instead. Did you not realise those guides were written unassuming of someone diving into the deep end with an engine swap and totally butchering the new loom.

If you can afford to pay for these parts, can you atleast pay someone with half a brain to correct your mistakes?

---

Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs

Needles

#108

>

QUOTE (delusionz @ Apr 22, 2011 - 1:40 AM)

>I still don't understand where you got the idea to rip apart the loom and twist wires together and tape them up before bothering to read pinouts, before checking grounds, before securing connections

Especially a whole bunch of wires at a time.

Seriously man what were you thinking?

I told you those wires you made to the starter motor were fuct up and what to check and jump and circuit test etc but you several times insisted on playing with your headlights instead. Did you not realise those guides were written unassuming of someone diving into the deep end with an engine swap and totally butchering the new loom.

If you can afford to pay for these parts, can you atleast pay someone with half a brain to correct your mistakes?

no

i just try to swap it myself so i can learn
no one else have touched my car but only my two hand and im proud of it,
now i have a nice ground setup whit 4 gauge all new wire
i did post a lot for the ppl can see what happen when u have gremlins, so they can understand better what they going thru

anyway
i didnt had lot of time lately to spend on the car and it was not at my home, i will get it back today

if u ask urself why i rip apart the loom is because i was bored to loom it back nicely each time i check something, i WILL LEAVE IT LIKE That untill i make it start !!

and i had looked at the diagram , looked and looked again.. when u only have to splice one wire inside , and make connection for the ea1 plug, its normal i have start by the easy way before i get thru the diagram...

and there is no way i will let someone touch my wiring at this point , i just have to go check all connection carrefully

half a brain.....

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 22, 2011 - 6:35 AM

Needles

#109

ho yeah i took off the wire to the starter motor u talked about, it was just for one try
i have the original hooked up and the connectivity is good

This post has been edited by Needles: Apr 22, 2011 - 6:50 AM

Needles

#110

changing rubber on st185 shaft


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mkernz22

#111

dude, you keeping post sh!t about needing help and why your car wont start, well its because your wiring is majorly f*cked! there are some things in a swap you cannot do by yourself, and one of those is the wiring. it doesnt matter how big your grounds are because if you're frying the ground wires, then there is something messed up with the wiring.

Needles

#112

>

QUOTE (mkernz22 @ Apr 22, 2011 - 8:30 AM)

>dude, you keeping post sh!t about needing help and why your car wont start, well its because your wiring is majorly f*cked! there are some things in a swap you cannot do by yourself, and one of those is the wiring. it doesnt matter how big your grounds are because if you're frying the ground wires, then there is something messed up with the wiring.

nada, my wiring is 100% done and working

my mistake: the EA1 wasnt plug correctly because i had to took off some gray plastic around the plug was blocking the connection...

now i need..

-new fuel filter
-created intake connection for all circulation hose,
-switch for water intercooler pump, (i want put timer later for it)
-new battery (already have it)
-finish change rubber on the axles shaft (the inner rubber is 85$ at toyota )
-downpip[e 3" i need modified to connect custom exhaust
-need new driver side beering

Needles

#113

i have send my front axle (mr2 inner st185 outter ) for a rebuilt because i had hard time to put it back together
i just receive it and i got one rubber replaced , and all ball beaRING replaced whit biggger ball, cause the mecanic guy say its loose and a little bit worn so it can came out the shaft while driving,

cost of rebuilt 120$

This post has been edited by Needles: May 6, 2011 - 2:14 PM

korban

#114

There's a bit of a knack to putting CV's back together. Took me an hour to do my first one, 5min for the second, it's like one of those wooden puzzles that you need to slide together in the right order.

How much bigger were the new balls? Wouldn't want it to get hot and bind, I've seen a ball push right through the housing, made a real mess.

Needles

#115

>

QUOTE (korban @ May 7, 2011 - 7:34 PM)

>There's a bit of a knack to putting CV's back together. Took me an hour to do my first one, 5min for the second, it's like one of those wooden puzzles that you need to slide together in the right order.

How much bigger were the new balls? Wouldn't want it to get hot and bind, I've seen a ball push right through the housing, made a real mess.

i will ask for the size of the new ball bearing , i dont know how much bigger they are, but i was about to put my axle on and one of them pop out cause i push to hard on it cause it was jamm easely...anyway that gonna be fix , i will try to put this one back toghether \

big news, my car is cranking over !! just need to connect fuel pump and see what happen

This post has been edited by Needles: May 9, 2011 - 4:07 PM

Needles

#116

woooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ITS STARTED !! RIGHT ON WHIT THE fuel pump bypass, sound GOOD!!!!!!! its the best day of my life , i rev it a little, thank to all 6gc for support my project

Needles

#117

i try fix error 54 , but i dont have front clip or inc plug,
i search all over the web for 2 day now and i cant find a way to avoid it but only to imitate the original circuit whit resistor and everithing
i cant brige the sensor for water level since i dont have the plug for the pump

someone have a way to do it or a link ?

st205 into 94 gts

This post has been edited by Needles: May 11, 2011 - 12:47 PM

delusionz

#118

can u find the wires at all? just 2 wires go from the sensor, one goes to ecu, one finds its way to ground somewhere in the loom, i think it branches off the loom near the IAT wires

---

Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs

Needles

#119

>

QUOTE (delusionz @ May 11, 2011 - 7:36 PM)

>can u find the wires at all? just 2 wires go from the sensor, one goes to ecu, one finds its way to ground somewhere in the loom, i think it branches off the loom near the IAT wires

yes this 2 wire on the sensor on the charge cooler , but if i bridge it, does my cpu will run ok ? because i dont have the connection for the IWP and i want to plug it direct whit a switch so i can leave it on if i have to close the car and it still hot

so, if i bridge the sensor on the charge cooler, does it gonna bring the code 54 cause i dont have the water pump plug ?

delusionz

#120

the factory setup is the best, running the water pump full time prolongs heatsoak, aswell as wears the pump out faster. also if the pump fails your ecu wont know to take safety precautions to prevent detonation and overheating until it's too late.

trust me on this one, theres 100% cons and 0% pros in running the pump full time, if you think you're going to get cooling faster what you're actually doing is spreading engine heat through all of the water since its not being cooled when the cars stationary, so that when you start to take off it will take longer as it has to cool ALL of the water, not just what happens to be sitting above the engine at the time.

and if that doesn't deter you, then the quick answer to your question is No, the ecu will throw a code without the intercooler pump

---

Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs