And now it's not throwing code 12. So I just have a single code 13. Seeing as the distributor has now been replaced, it seems like it's either my ECM, or the wiring in between the two. I'm thinking I might just see if it's the wiring by running my own wire from the dizzy to ecu(only in the circuit that it says is faulty.)

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the distributor wires are run in a sheilded cover.
you can test continuity with a multimeter between the distributor connector, and ecu plugs to check the wiring.

Alright, I'll try that. Thanks!

continuity test checks out great for every wire, including those from the igniter to ecu. So that leads me to believe the ECM is faulty.

if your GT is auto i have an ECU hanging around ill sell you

standard, but I already ordered one. I popped open the ECM top, and found a leaking capacitor, spreading it's electrolyte to everything within a 1 inch radius, so I think I found my problem. New one has been ordered, and will be here this week.

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Interesting find! - I would love to know what caused that =P

my 92 lexus had the same problem.. electrolytic caps just go bad after a while..

Yeah, I'm glad that I have finally found the problem though. I'm sick of being stuck in the middle of the road, having to call a tow truck and someone to pick me up. It's really embarassing and aggravating.

I don't want to jump the gun on this, but I got the new ECM in, did a few test runs, and it seems much happier now. No RPM flickers yet.

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I have the same problem you had/have. Did the ECM fix your problem? Do you simply unplug the old one and plug the new one in?

i have a very similar problem right now, its been years since i checked codes on a obd1 how do you do it again? jump e1 to t1?

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TE1 + E1

nice thanks manny, i put a 92 5sfe in my 95 and it was running great then suddenly became erratic and died, i coasted into parking, and now the car just doesnt start or tries but it stumbles and dies.

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I wanted to share since I had this problem for months before I figgerd it out. It may not be your problem but check it out.
My 97 vert kept stalling once in a while then not starting, then running fine and then running bad. It was my COOLANT TEMPRATURE SENSOR($12 AT AUTOZONE). It was cracked inside even though it looked ok outside. If it cracke through your car will finally die. It gets corroded from anti freeze and it is the second one to the right(there are 2 the left 1 is temp sensor) if u look from the front at it where the heater hoses connect. I couldn't believe how long I tried to find the missfire then discovered that.

This post has been edited by xrav22: Jan 22, 2011 - 9:23 PM

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Thanks for the help! The new ECM stopped the flickering on my celica also