nvm

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Aug 2, 2010 - 10:53 AM

how about these for the front sway bar links??? they should be better than the two's r us????

http://cgi.ebay.com/FRONT-SWAY-BAR-END-LIN...=item45f832621b

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I dunno, but they sure don't LOOK better than the Twos R Us ones. Lol. Plus they aren't adjustable.

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hmm ya they look like the thickness of stock ones. I'll just go with two's r us up front just to be safe as other members have used them with good results.

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I already have the Racing Beats in the rear and I'll be getting the ST185 Twos R Us fronts when I buy the F/R ST sways.

Heres other cars that show they have the same front suspension end links. maybe someone would want to research if these other cars have good aftermarket ones. i kinda doubt cus the rest are grocery getters but something to take a look at. you just have to figure out between the cars if the fronts or rears is the same because you could use a front link for a rear link in another car, depends.

Anyway whats a good endlink vs cost of regular ones. I found these for a 5th gen, http://www.ebay.com/itm/CELICA-ST182-ST184...=item20c4e54dff. It looks like its mixing the bushing arm type end link to make it fit our right angle end links. Less of a spherical movement now and just more of a damn bushing to be honest from the picture - similar to racingbeat. What are you guys thoughts on the design? OR get the Mevotechs that are basically OEM replacements that are Beefier. http://www.6gc.net/forums/lofiversion/inde...73360-2650.html

Toyota
Celica (94-99) AT200 ST204
Camry (92-96) SXV10 MCV10 VCV10
Avalon (95-96) MCX10
Corolla (93-02) AE101 AE102 ZZE110
Rav4 (96-00) (2DR) SXA15 SXA10

Lexus
ES300 (92-96) VCV10 MCV10

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 22, 2012 - 7:20 PM

http://www.gt4-racing.eu/index.php/toyota-...-sway-bar-links

Here's some for the front and rear.

the design concept sounds good because you dont have to worry about adjusting it correctly and it comes with upgraded bushings. OEM are just OEMs and Racing beat/twosrus are adjustable, stronger links but i guess I don't really need the adjustability part, unless that affects how much lower you can go.

I don't think so.
I but the adjustable oens from twos r us, and they are adjustable.
I'm not even sure why or how you would need to adjust them, or what benefit it would have.

I simply installed them right out of the box, as is and haven't touched them since.
How would adjusting them benefit you?

Doesn't the relation between the two end link mounts change in coordination with the "height" of the suspension setup? Roughly speaking, OEM suspension setup will take a longer end link, whereas using coilovers to lower will require a shorter endlink?

This post has been edited by SwissFerdi: Apr 22, 2012 - 9:49 PM

^ thats the general concept, the other thing is how much do you adjust besides shortening them because of the lowered ride height, im guessing when studs become horizontal while the car is on the ground or on flat.

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No.

^ actually, it is common to use shorter endlinks especially when your car is lowered. if not, you have both studs stressing pointing down or up. you can feel the stress they take in order to put them on. I only noticed this on my 7th gen, and it is common talk on forums.

the links need to be of equal length so that the sway bar isn't pre-stressed.
while pre-stressing is not necessarily a bad thing, it just means that you won't get the same roll stiffness doing LH turns as you would doing RH turns (and vice versa).

they're also adjustable so that you can change the direction of force the end link is putting on the sway bar the moment you start getting body roll.
ideally, you want the link to be 90 degrees with the sway bar where it meets the sway bar bushings. it'll allow more torque to transfer from one end of the sway bar bushing to the next during cornering.
basically, it'll maximize the performance of the sway bar.


i made a diagram to show the angle i'm referring to.




during auto-cross events where you're always cornering left and right & putting more cornering loads on the suspension, it'll be better to have it at a slightly higher angle.
for example, if at maximum cornering load the angle (in the picture) reaches a minimum of 86 degrees which is when the suspension achieves its highest length of travel giving you a maximum deflection angle of 4 degrees (90-86=4), then it would be better to have it set to around 92 degrees when static (90+4/2=92) so that deflection angles range between 88-92 degrees and always maximizing the anti-roll performance of your set-up.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Apr 23, 2012 - 10:11 AM

^ because of that reason, if you ever take your car to be corner balanced for a racing setup ( or DD pleasure lol ) you'll be require to have adjustable end links along with coilovers. the end links are used to transfer small weight loads from side to side to " balanced " the weight distribution of the car.

but what are the advantages between spherical and this bushing bolt type? would it be alright to get the GT4 Racing endlinks that have poly bushings but no adjustability?

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 23, 2012 - 5:10 PM

the ball-joint type endlinks allow some independent suspension travel before any torque is transmitted through the sway bar. they're ideal for a more comfortable ride especially if you hit bumpy roads often.

the good thing about TwosRUs links are that they have adjustable lengths so that you can adjust the amount of suspension travel but the ball joint's degree of rotation is a little high if you're already on lowering springs and especially if you're on coilovers since suspension travel is already shortened.

those gt4 racing endlinks are not only non-adjustable but they're also overpriced. the racingbeat links are half the price, adjustable, and have better quality judging from the pics.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Apr 23, 2012 - 8:57 PM

i looked at the racingbeat ones and they seem to be more expensive 65, vs gt4 ones at 50some. which ones are they and arent they only for the rears?

i might end up getting the beefier Mevotechs, idk yet.

Didn't read farther but will the sway bars fit too? Just curious

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They are not necessary. They would not be stressed unless presented with excessive lowering, which in turn would mean a decrease in performance. Lowering the car too much doesn't necessarily make it handle better, also "common talk on forums". Aftermarket endlinks are only needed for a road car once it has been lowered beyond what is good for performance, or when aftermarket swaybars are used, or both.

its not necessary but you can see the studs are no longer in horizontal position and the endlinks become a b*tch to take out because now you have to remove it a certain way. and you f'en destroy those factory length endlinks with a low drop height. plus small height drops to me are waste of money and time to do 1" drop. in general lowering the car does make it handle better cus you are lowering the center of gravity however, suspension is many different factors that must be considered, aftermarket parts and tuning the suspension for a specific application and so on and so forth. but yea you dont need shorter endlinks but you can tell the difference betweeen a good drop height that its tougher to get it in there and out plus companies supply the shorter ones too because of these drop heights. but shorter endlinks or adjustable endlinks is common talks in forums and is known by the industry because of adjustability and drop heights. or else they would just sell factory lengths with just better bushings and no adjustability (adjustability for tuning and length adjustment). my questions for the most part in this thread is just to ask about the products itself.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Apr 28, 2012 - 5:37 PM

I have found this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CELICA-ST182-ST1...f#ht_1251wt_952

is for the t18 celicas nut if I am not mistaken there are members that use t18s endlinks for the t20s, but again I am not sure.

so what is your opinion on this?

And something else about the polyurethane , I heard that there are need to grease them frequently or else they squeek
is this true or it is a problem of some certain manufacturers?

Not sure about PU in the end links but I've had it in my front LCAs for about a year now and still no squeeking and I haven't greased then since I put then in.
Also, just put PU around my sway bar in the rear and haven't heard anything from then yet

I just installed the RacingBeat end links in my car a few days ago, replacing the 4 year old AutoZone specials. I didn't notice any immediate huge difference with them, but these are definitely much sturdier and much better quality. After a few days of driving and taking a few small corners, I can tell that the car feels a bit tighter. Overall I'm very pleased with these and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

I also ran into a snag with shipping, and customer service was very quick to correct the issue and get them out to me a few days before I was expecting them.

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gt4 racing endlinks have been around for some time, but i dont think anyone ever bought them on this site. i was interested in buying them at one point, they have the same design as the whiteline models. I would more than likely get them the 2nd time around if i still have the car or needed it. they were going for like 169 shipped for all 4 to Guam but IDK it might be cheaper to the states. ask the guy for discount, the site is gt4-racing. I'd be interested to know the results of the install.

This post has been edited by trdproven: Jun 27, 2012 - 11:02 PM

one argue that you need spherical end links as to where the racing beat is just plain bolt on. so who is right? yes I read with racing beat it wears all other parts alot faster. that with spherical end links you put the stress on the sway bar it self as to with racing beat you put stress on the shock.

when i think of it does the sway bar even move much at all??? if so how much??

ahh found this link. the rear suspension on a subaru is the same as our FWD celica's and the same as gt4 celica's. read the first post on this page as written by a suspension company the difference between poly and spherical end links.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...1293&page=2

also another subaru website:

e offer several brands and styles of endlinks. I've sold a whole lot of endlinks and there have been happy customers with every brand and style we sell. Endlinks are a part that can be designed and built in very different ways each having its own drawbacks and advantages. Up until recently the two most popular styles were spherical bearing and urethane bushing endlinks. Both of these designs have issues. Spherical bearing endlinks are known to make noise in some cases. This is usually because dirt has gotten into the bearing. Urethane bushing endlinks have also been known to make noise in some cases. If a bolt doesn't pass through them at a 90 degree angle it puts stress on everything. Other types of endlinks allow free movement, but urethane endlinks resist anything that is not 90 degrees. In many cases this is not severe enough to cause binding and noise problems, but it is definitely a possibility. The other problem with urethane bushings is they are soft. They flex around quite a bit which puts a buffer between the swaybar and lower control arm. They don 't allow the swaybar to do its job as quickly or effectively, so they don’t perform as well.

The new style I have been running and recommending is called a ball link. Whiteline started offering sealed ball link endlinks in 2010. This style of endlink brings together the best of both worlds. They perform significantly better than urethane bushing endlinks since they don't use spongy urethane bushings. They also fit better than urethane bushing endlinks since they allow free movement, but unlike spherical bearing endlinks they don't make noise. They cost a little more than urethane endlinks, but the difference in fit/performance is well worth the price.


This post has been edited by BonzaiCelica: Jan 14, 2013 - 6:53 PM

the difference is with spherical bearings (assuming they are centered), the outer strut is able to travel a certain amount before it puts load on the inner strut while cornering. with polyurethane bushings, there is no room for play in the endlinks so as soon as there is suspension travel one strut, it immediately puts load on the opposite strut and that's why some people are against it as it basically behaves as non-independent suspension. for better ride quality on bumpy road surfaces, spherical is better as it allows for more independent suspension travel. however, if you want more oversteer and don't care much about ride quality, polyurethane is better.

these endlinks are a cheap upgrade for oversteer. since our cars are fwd and have a light rear-end, i actually preferred the oversteer. i also didn't care so much about ride quality since i was already on stiffened lowering springs and also coilovers at one point in time. ideally, you want to start off with an aftermarket sway bar first, see if that suits your needs. if there's still too much sway, then consider getting polyurethane end links, or increasing the stiffness in your dampers (if you have coilovers) and/or switch to stiffer springs.

This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Jan 14, 2013 - 7:42 PM

ya here a few vids and I don't see the end link moving much at all. i just can't find the other video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1o-TvZQdek