Hi guys.

OK, I've taken delivery of my new TRD quickshifter, so need to install it. I'd like to do it myself but I'm basically a rank noob at DIY

So I guess a good starting question is what tools might I need

If anyone can provide a bit of a walkthrough (or point me to one) that would be appreciated

Cheers!
b

You didn't search. If you were to look in the How-To secion of the site you would see there was a walkthrough posted years ago. Pictures and all.


Edit: Did the work for you.

http://www.6gc.net/howto/install_trd_quickshifter

This post has been edited by 95CelicaST: Dec 22, 2009 - 2:53 PM

Thanks, that looks pretty comprehensive

Rusty just did his recently and posted about it.

I'm envious of you guys quickshifters I just wonder how much quicker you could wear out your syncros with one of those.

nice! does anybody know where i can get a TRD quickshifter? nobody seems to have it? does the 7gen one work?

7gen works

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Its all on how u shift and drive like I tell people manual transmissions is not for everybody.

"Anyone who says that a short shifter has caused excess wear on their gearbox needs to learn how to shift gears properly." -Quoted from the link

Busting the "shortshifters cause excess synchro wear" myth <<Clicky

lol I'd imagine it would wear the syncros as much as any normal fast shift.

say Quidam, can we see some pictures of your beauty with a small upgrade after you install?

I can help you if you want?

TRD Quick shift remains my favorite mod to date, worth it every time you drive.

Really easy to install too.

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Haha okay, The thing is when you select the gear (Especially in our cars) you bring the shifter up to the position of the gear and gently guide it in, you still have to wait a split sec for the syncro to spin up the gear before it accepts it happily, otherwise it crunches, This is regular street driving.

If you can crunch a gearbox regular shifter, then how is a shorter throw going to allow you to shift quicker without crunching the gearbox?

When you're on the track, you're going to want to shift as fast as possible which means either way waiting for the syncro or forcing it in, short shift or not?

Does this mean it's only for aesthetics and not entirely functional?

Fitted

Just got back from a test-drive and everything seems a-ok. I don't think it will take long for me to get used to it, and for sure, you find the gears a lot faster with this stick, there is simply less physical movement involved. I had one weird moment where I thought I was in 1st but was in 3rd, and I think it's just because the movements are so small now it is perhaps a bit easier to misjudge.

So this was my first mod, and I'm glad I did it myself! In fact in hindsight I'd say this is the sort of job where you are likely to do a better job of it than some mechanic who really doesn't care about your car.

Didn't go entirely smoothly, first headache was when I was disconnecting the left side cable off the original shifter assembly and the little metal clip that keeps it in place sprung off the stud and disappeared into thin air. After swearing loudly my gut instinct told me it had lodged itself under the passengers side carpet, because that is exactly where I would put it if I were Murphy's Law. So I took the passengers seat out (pleasantly surprised to find how easy that was) and was kind of shocked at all the dust and crap under it. I therefore figured the drivers side was likely to be even worse so took that seat out as well. Anyway, my assumption about Murphy was spot on, and the clip was exactly where I thought it would be -relieved to find it! Cleaned up the mess with my mini-vac.

I also got very annoyed with the metal horse-shoes that hold the cables in place on the shifter assembly. I used pliers, but it was kind of awkward getting the right angle to apply leverage. I could feel myself getting red in the face with frustration as I battled with them. Finally I got my technique sorted out and off they came.

Interestingly, I didn't find what was supposed to be the hardest part very difficult. The center cable that fits to the bottom of the gear lever via a ball and socket connection came off pretty quickly. I'll admit getting it back on took a bit longer, but was still not too bad.

Apart from the metal horse shoes (which I hope I never have to deal with again) I did find getting the original shifter assembly out of the chassis a pain in the butt as well (Strangely getting the new assembly in was a lot easier, but I still had to play twister with it) I simply did not want to cut the plastic. So instead I removed the heater/air con unit and face plate. With the seats out as well, I was able to get in very good position to wiggle the unit out, but it took a bit of twisting and turning!

My advise to anyone else doing this, would be to take the seats out. I kind of wish I'd done that right from the start. You have more room to work and you may as well give the interior a bit of clean while you doing a job like this anyway.

ps. While doing this work I found a Japanese coin under one of the seats lol. Been there a long time no doubt.

pps. what are the cables for under the seats that connect ot the seat itself?!? On the passengers side it looked like the cable had been cut off. The drivers side cable was still complete..

OK, stand by and I'll post some pics

This post has been edited by Quidam: Dec 27, 2009 - 4:33 AM

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Out of curiosities sake where do you live? I'm in Wellington, Wainuiomata -and thanks for the offer

bits I had to remove:



Finally got the old shifter unit out, ready for the new one to go in:



No seats!



Stripped cable I found under the passengers seat:



Same cable intact on drivers side (was awkward to disconnect from seat):



Pivotal moment, as I managed to connect the ball-and socket of the shifter and cable together



New unit in and screwed back down (with supplied spacers installed under the assembly, as advised per tutorial)
You can also see the s.o.b. metal horseshoes near the top of the picture that hold the cables onto the plastic Assembly



putting it all back together:





Finished product!







This post has been edited by Quidam: Dec 27, 2009 - 4:55 AM

Looks great!

I've done 4 or 5 shifter installs on 6th gens, so the entire ordeal takes me 15 minutes or so, but its always nice to go back and see others do it. For example, the horseshoe clips you grab and wiggle side to side and they pop off. And all you really need to remove is the center console and the shifter trim. Just be ready to get your hands cut up from the plastics.

Excellent first mod.

hawkesbay. (was going to walk you through it) wow you did alot of work to install it, but congrates on the install.

OMG, do you not see what you messed up? You accidentally reversed the dash!

In seriousness, nice. I would go with a short shifter as well if I had a manual...I still could in the future.

ya i put the 7th gen short throw and i LOVE IT!!! u dont have to disconnect any cables either, it wasnt hard at all, just have to be careful anddont brake any parts but its not overly breakable.. took me like 45 min

Thanks guys -yeah I did do a lot of work -certainly taking out the seats was not part of the plan but I'm happy fate (aka Murphys Law) made me do it because they really did need a good clean. Honestly, it was a lot of fun, kind of like bonding with your car lol

This community is great, I would not have tried to do this by myself if I had not had your guys advise and support.

ps. in hindsight I agree it was not that hard, but I also think there is a real chance of breaking something if you are reckless, you do have to be a bit careful. Also, the first time you do anything it always takes a lot longer and I took my time on purpose because I didn't want to f!ck anything up

This post has been edited by Quidam: Dec 27, 2009 - 3:32 PM

good job !
now pick up a new gator !

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I only have that crunch problem when my tranny is cold but once its warmed up it shifts fast and smooth as butter but I've never driving a real st205 so I don't know how different the e154f (I think thats what the st205 tranny code is lol) is to the s54.

I've never had any problems shifting (cold or warm), though my car as only done 70,000kms, which might have something to do with it

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come again?

>

Somehow I don't think you are talking about the sort of gator you find along the Nile River.. so you might need to clarify

Anyway, took her for a real spin to the Rimutaka Forest Park, which is basically just 1 long windy road, perfect for getting a good feel for the new shifter.

Verdict is I freaking love it. Not that I had a problem with the old shifter, but this was a great first upgrade. One of the things I really noticed was down-shifting is easier and feels a lot more natural. I also noticed slipping into 5 from 4 just feels so subtle, but at the same time so sure. Highly recommended!

haha sorry, shift boot

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You can crunch any gear box by forcing the shifter in faster than the syncromesh can get the next gear up to speed, that's what i'm getting at.

I've had a mint 73,000km S54 in my old SS-III ST202 and yes, it is very easy, compared to my 150,000km E154F, but thats besides the point.

So what I'm wondering is how the short shifter makes a functional difference if you still wish to avoid crashing the next gear in. The only difference I can see is the travel across neutral, is that where it makes the shifts quicker? and not between the start of the gear selection to when its fully in place?

Just trying to understand...

the black lines represent the position of the shifter when shifting from gear A to B, the movement pivot from the same original point, but the shifter knob travel, thus creating an angle from A to B, with a regular shifter, in order to obtain such angle the distance is greater, than if the shifter was shorter, represented by the red lines, so even though you still have to wait for the synchros to come up to speed, it's still quicker in distance, so your hands have to travel less distance, also explains why short shifters are stiffer, because you have less leverage.

Black=Stock shifter travel------------------------------------------------------ >>Red>>=Short Shifter travel

The travel of the shifter is way shorten with the short shifter compared to the stock shifter, theirs a difference between forcing it into gear and shifting into gear. Even just granny/normal shifting u shift faster because the throws are shorten so less travel into gear = faster shifts. And yes if your using a short shifter and your forcing it into gear of course it will lessen the life of the tranny same with the stock shifter. But with the stock shifter your less likely to force it into gear because the travel is longer then the short shifter their for giving u more time to shift into gear and preventing any damage to your tranny with the stock shifter. But with the short shifter if u don't know how to properly shift into gear u can destroy your tranny faster so its all in the driver.

>

Agreed. The single advantage is less physical movement to each gear-shift: that is where the speed gains are made. Evrything else remains status quo. And I believe that is why you need to install the spacers, because the fulcrum (point at which the lever pivots) has changed. So you need more height to ensure the cables that connect to the shifter are still level with their original position.

ps. Batman, thanks fot the clarification actually the boot does look a bit old and worn out compared to the brand new knob -I might look into it

yea agree, changing of the pivot point, (you shifts are quicker, but the gear selector's still move the same amount)

Love changing 4th to 5th, just so easy pops straight in.

quidam: I have a part number somewhere for that boot EDIT: 58808-20120-C0
delusionz: we recently bought a trd quickshift for the ep82, if you still want my spare trd gear knob its yours

This post has been edited by Rusty: Dec 29, 2009 - 1:14 AM