Firstly, hey everyone, im new here,
I own 2x 6G celicas,
A red ST, (i abused on kinda off road strips)
and a White GT, im currently modding out.


Well, i have a problem with my abs, i know were not all engineers, i generally do most jobs on the car, myself with the help of some semi-mechanics for free..


Well, my abs motor wont start as i start the car, i have checked, relays, fuses, power in, power out, earthing, each connector on both in/out cables. tested the motor in my red celica and it works fine :S

hmm, any idea's, or if theres any celica heads, near nottingham UK, with any more DIY knowledge (or a fault reader) id love it.

Im trying to avoid using a garage for anything, since im skint, id prefer to do things the long way than the expensive way.. else id own a lambo tyvm.



Sorry if im misusing the forum here,

like i said '''new'''

Ill have some pics of my ride up soon, hoping to meet a good few ppl up here.
:]

oh and to point out, my breaks arent working :]
they are spongey all the way to the floor, before offering any form of slowing down, i have to pump and keep them at the bottom, to make sure i stop..
((also, new master cylinder, checked servo/pipes/fuses/relays/etc

I had the same problem with my ABS light. My brakes were
spongy and I had to pump them. I bled the system and it
seemed like there wasn't any air in there...then I bleed the
system again. A hardcore bleeding session and I had big
pockets of air in my rear lines that didn't appear to be there
before. They're fine now.

Are your calipers cool? To be honest, I'm not sure if that has
anything to do with your situation..but I had another ABS problem
a few years ago and it was a problem with my front, driver's
side plunger.

I'm sure someone who's better informed in the brake department
can better determine what your problem might be. I'm just letting
you know of a similar experience I had.

-Jay

This post has been edited by Lexicon_Devil: Aug 5, 2008 - 6:41 AM

hey, the air pockets were my first attempts, like 5/6litres worth of pumping and checking for pressure loss. brakes are clear as hell. lol.
:] its definately the motor, so thinking about any experiences ppl have.
where their circuit for abs fails and the motor doesnt fire up with the electrics

the brakes themselves will work 100% fine without the abs system working. i'd be willing to bet you either still have air, or you have a bad master (new ones can be faulty, not that uncommon).

your first priority needs to be getting your brakes working correctly, then worry about the ABS system.

does your abs modulator have a bleeder nipple on it? if so then you need to specifically bleed the air from the ABS modulator, as air is very easily trapped inside those devices and is extremely hard to bleed out into the brake lines.

as for the abs system, you may have a bad EBCM (electronic brake control module). theyre very expensive, but i think there is a way to test if they work. the basic test is 'does the abs and abs active lights come on when you turn the car on'. if they do, but the abs modulator does not set it self, then the ebcm probably works. you could try to find out if theres a way to pull fault codes from it that are stored in memory.

i'll look at bleeding the modulator, tho i havent seen any bleed nipples anywhere.
The abs warning light comes on and stays on.

i can brake succesfully, but pedal has to be right down to the floor to get bite, and sometimes needs some pumping even then,.
and emergency stopping is out of the question.. .
checked the master to see if its sucking in air/leaking/loose etc. seems fine.

im confident its because the abs motor wont work, going to check wheel sensors etc anyways...

every last possible thing i will try before giving up and spending money on garages, if i cant get it working, i'll just re-route the cables to each other bipassing the abs altogether and just using them that way, plus i'll know if it still doesnt work that im wrong with the

anyone know if it'd fail mot if i take out the abs?

good, the abs light is on. look up how to get the codes from it.

I don't know about the laws there, but here if you have any kind of check engine light on, you'll fail emissions. If you remove the ABS all together, the question is whether the light would stay on or not. You have OBD1 diagnostics... here, they don't plug into anything for OBD1, they can only read OBD2, which means no codes can be read. This is a good thing if this is the case for you as well.

HOWEVER - Follow Bitter's instructions/advice, I think he's dead on. I was going to suggest that it must be your sensors. I had the same experience with my 4Runner a year or so ago (although no ABS light ever came on). Your brakes should work fine w/out the ABS. Make sure they're plugged in properly, it could be something as simple as that. It's easy sometimes to miss the trees for the forest. Also check again for that bleeder nipple, I'm pretty sure it's there. On my 4Runner (which only had rear ABS) it was about halfway down the rear axel. It's important that it's bled properly though.

Well I'd be forgetting ABS for now and just getting your breaks working. Even if the anti-break system should fail,the brake system will operate conventionally.

So says the mighty owners manual I only know because I'm looking at my own ABS and wondering why the light doesn't come on in the first 3seconds of the engine starting......