I'm running the brakeplanet setup, had it for 4 months now and under hard azz driving no problems.

somewhere on here there is a promo code for free shipping from brake planet...

drilling rotors doesn't effect contact area, it actually reduces friction and fade so under constant on/off braking (i.e. windy auto x conditions) you don't loose efficiency,

:edit: promo code for free shipping is BP10100

This post has been edited by brthrurik: Apr 1, 2008 - 10:54 AM

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Thanx brthrurik. Anyone not in the houston area would need to note this info if they plan to purchase any rotors from Breakplanet.

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Someone was on honda-tech

I'm with Dan...no it's not an april fools joke. I have C/Ded rotors but only because they came with my car when I bought it.

This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Apr 1, 2008 - 10:58 AM

yus i haz been on Ricecar forumz :eeps:

you know you are doing something wrong when even the ricerz are against you :rofl:

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Drilling rotors DOES affect contact area. The pad can't contact the material that was drilled out. It does reduce friction which is a bad BTW. Greater Frction=Better Stopping

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more friction = more fade.... more fade means longer stopping distance... longer stopping distance means more front end damage...

Um, no.

Getting better brake pads and properly braking will easily reduce/eliminate fade.

i like how the thread originally started off as a question of where to find d/s rotors into an epic debate of drilled vs. undrilled rotors :wtr:

anyways, (not to add to the clutter on this thread or hijack it in any matter) since we are on the topic of brake pads and rotors, i was wondering...

1) what brand brake pads does 6gc recommend (oem vs aftermarket) and
2) what brand slotted rotors does 6gc recommend (brembo vs others)

thanks

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you'd have to PM Coomer or another moderator... They're the only ones able to tell you what 6gc.net would Recommend, because it'd be their Recommendation.

The rest of us could only give opinions.

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Sorry to burst your bubble but friction is the concept behind braking . You can completely eliminate friction by taking off your brake bads, then you would have no fade but it might not work out too well for you
Fade is caused by your brake rotors and pads heating up and therefor having less friction which causes longer stopping distances.

This post has been edited by Zelstin: Apr 2, 2008 - 8:55 PM

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thanks dman for pointing out my mistake..


1) what brand brake pads would you guys/gals recommend (oem vs aftermarket) and
2) what brand slotted rotors would you guys/gals recommend (brembo vs others)

no no, you didnt make a misteak. I just pointed that out so that i could answer your question without repramand from a mod

Okay, Bremo is a premium brand, Personally; i will use anything that didn't originate from e-bay.

But now for my trick, Get a lighter and hold it to the rotor. See what happens after a few min. (my pop taught me this trick when i was little to test the grade of steel; we collect weapons) okay, after a few min, if it turned color, smoked or did anything else, its crap (obviously) Then slam it on the concrete, High grade steal will not scratch on concrete.

When i say slam, i mean pop a hole in the street and stomp that mother-fcuker around like your playing air-hockey/soccer. lol.

Thats how you know if you have a good pair or not now most people will tell you not to do that, And i'm about to get flamed for mentioning this. Because theese people say you'll break em, or scrach them, or f- them up. And if you can break em like that, what do you think will happen under stress, heat and weight of stopping when you NEED to come to a complete halt? Do you want to trust your life and the life of those in your car (wife and daughter for me) to something that weak, fragile and frail?

i need to find the boxes to mine... i'll tell you what brand i got. (they passed the test. )

sorry, i mention the test because Even though you know that you knew that, you didnt know that you knew that. A friend of mine bought some from e-bay years ago; and they smoked when he put them on. The front driver side cracked into 2 pieces while he was driving down the road less than 2 weeks into them. Okay, i was sitting in the passager seat, you wanna talk about a fcuked up feeling...

This post has been edited by D-Man: Apr 4, 2008 - 1:53 PM

sorry that last post made me giggle.


Rotors:
- ATE slotted rotors = great product.
- Brembo Blank rotors = great product

Pads:
- HAWK HPS street pads = great pad
- HAWK performance ceramic = good pad
- Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads = good pad
- EBC GREENSTUFF = good pad

go with these products and there is no need to slam your junk on the ground, attempt to light your rotors on fire or see if you can screw up your sidewalk

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 4, 2008 - 2:05 PM

what'd i tell ya

It's intended for all steel products. not just rotors. But i do it with rotors and wont use a pair till i crack something with em.

Death has see the crack in my parking lot from my rotors

I also do it when i buy other steel items, not just rotors. lol, it's just a rule of thumb i live by. If it can survive being stoped into the street without a scrach, then it can be owned by me

no comment.
He's right about the lighter thing tho - if you can burn impurities with a relatively low heat source like a lighter then the metal is sh*t - however you're not taking into account the rust preventative they coat the metal with after machining [otherwise all new rotors would be rusty when you get them]. That stuff will produce more smoke than you are likely to get from any impurities you may encounter in your rotors.
However if anyone wants to truely test the theories and various rotors out I have a rockwell hardness tester and various other metal testing equipment here at work.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Apr 4, 2008 - 4:02 PM

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TRUE! i did not take that into account... good point.

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na, i got side-walks and parking lots

although i do want to see that shop, you made me drool a little bit talking about all the fabrication possibilities up there...

This post has been edited by D-Man: Apr 4, 2008 - 4:09 PM

The GF and I are currently making Toyota devil horn add-ons for the stock badges right now Man the first one came out super nice - way better than the ones I keep seeing where the base of the horn is way bigger than the corresponding peice on the logo. Nice and sharp too.
She'll be taking orders soon she says - but no rushing her.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Apr 4, 2008 - 4:16 PM

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dude, you gal isnt the kind of person i'd rush. She's always so nice, but i'd hate the be the one to piss her off. lol. I'd bet good money she could hurt a few people.

...really though, I'd bet every penny i got...

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that sounds not only dirty, but really really painful.

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it's not going to get dirty or hurt your "junk" at all if it's hard enough



that's why you must test it; before you keep it. Griff, i'm sure you can respect testing the "junk" to see if it's hard enough before you commit yourself to it.

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Oh god why did you say that?

I was not even thinking about that until you made me realize what pain that sentence implies...

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uh, not exactly, sorry D-Man... but I haven't tested any junk to see if it's hard enough to commit to in almost 15 years, I just don't roll like you do apparently. But I'm not judging, I mean really, if you wanna slam your junk into the ground to make sure it's some quality ****, by all means be my guest!

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because it's funny! LOL!

hahaha!! cheers!! thanks guys, this is why i love our community! =)

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yea I has feelin D-man just buys questionable stuff...and is cheap.


Buy a reputable brand IE: BREMBO/ ATE/ STOPTECH/ WILWOOD/ WEAREVER(cheap of good side) and you won't have a problem...

HOW QUICK DOES BREAK PLANET DELIVER IT TO UR DOOR?

ZOMGZ AS FAST AS A WOODCHUCK COULD CHUCK WOOD!!!!! L33T
(try tracking your shipment, if you didn't get a tracking number, call the company since they shipped it and we did not, they should know)

This post has been edited by playr158: Apr 23, 2008 - 9:06 AM

i forgot all about this thread.

Ya know... Oh never mind It's probably best that i dont comment farther

& its ok if you dont have faith in your product; but i'm the kind of guy that wants to see how sturdy something is before i trust my life to it. I couldn't give a damn about any kind of prestige a product brings, All i care about is how good it works.

Or if your' Richy-Rich, and all you care about is a name brand, thats cool too i suppose.

Then again, rich people leaving an inheritance is one way to keep the economy flowing

drilled discs are pointless, modern pad compounds dont give of the same level of gases as they breakdown as older pads used to, which is why the holes/grooves are there, so the gas escapes into those rather than getting trapped between the pad surface and disc, pushing the pad away from the disc surface.

drilled just weakens the disc, its purely marketing and your a mug if you fall for it. The likes of porsche have discs that are cast with the holes in it, they dont drill them, and again this is more for looks than anything.

Slotted is maybe usefull but that depends on the pad, most dont have the glazing problem anymore, again marketing owns you..

save some money by buying just plane old blanks, and spend the money you saved there on buying decent pads, get a good compound thats where the stopping power and fade characteristics come from.

EDOP YOU SEEM TO TRY TO SAY THE LAST OF EVERYTHING ON ALL MY THREADS and its alwaws you saying something to that goes against us all...i think u need to start posting some proof on ur theroies and insults....u seem to try to prove ur smarter and know more bout our cars then every1 else..by useing insults......post proofs other then trying to convence with ur words....and by the by yes it weakens the disked if they are drilled on....we all know that

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dragondog chill sorry dont read to much into how i'm saying things i'm not tryinig to be smarter or insult anyone, it's just my opinion feel free to ignore it if you dont like it. Didnt even realise i'd posted in your threads, i've nothing to prove i hardly even post here, just trying to give an opinion that isnt second hand.

If you want to know if what i'm saying is fact or fiction then do some research that doesnt involve asking people on forums!.

but in short, grooved discs are for race pads, and again it depends on compound, many full on race pads dont work at low temps and will glaze over, the grooves will remove this glaze and allow the pad to function until its up to temp.

On a road car your unlikely to be using those kinds of pads, you really need a street pad thats going to work from low temps, and all grooved discs are doing is accelerating the wear of the pad, so what your really doing is costing yourself more money for no gain. If you are using discs that need grooved discs then you will need to be buying seriosly expensive treated discs or they will crack when used with that sort of pad.

I say buy plane discs because unless your racing, plane discs are far cheaper to buy and replace,combine with decent pads suitable for street use will give you by far the best value for money.

This post has been edited by Edophus: Apr 25, 2008 - 6:53 AM