That does sound rich.

there has to be a leak somewhere. if you hear the turbo spooling, follow your piping up to the TB and just look for any rip in a coupler, anything. After i first boosted my 5's, i was only topping out at 2psi, looked everywhere for a leak, and finally found one on the under side of one of my 90 degree couplers.

Found my problem. I'm such an idot. I tell you what I am no longer going to work in the dark. The guy at the tuning shop couldn't even spot this. It was right behind the bumper by the wheel well. My intercooler piping blew off.

+ 5 points for me

lol, funny guy..... Yeah I feel soooo stupid. But now its off to the dyno once again. SO I was out a little bit ago and yeah I know I haven't been tuned with boost yet. But Its sooooo shaky. I don't like it very much.

smoke is reduced/gone though after replacing the injector O-ring though? wow, there's something about injector o-rings on 5s's that like to break. lol. I had 3 different ones break. after the second time, I had the injectors all cleaned and got new o-rings and coated them in gasoline like you're supposed to and did everything right and another still broke. And CaliJeff had one break after he did his project and now you. sheesh!

Why is this? I honestly think mine broke due to rushing. If I wasn't doing all of this in 10 degree weather I think I might not even be on here asking such silly questions about why my project isn't going to well.

I have no idea why they break. If you re-used yours from your stock injectors, well, then it's a given. you are supposed to replace them all everytime you take off the fuel rail. but if they were all new, then who knows.

Well I stupidly re-used them. Well since I was unaware of having to replace the o-rings, I guess I wasn't so stupid just ignorant. But all is well. I don't mind pulling the injectors anyway.

Okay, a few more issues have arrived. So lately I've been noticing a puff of white smoke coming out of my exhaust when I stomp on it. But when I'm just cruising around there is no smoke visible from the rear view mirrow, but my girl friend tells me she can see smoke. I checked my coolant no signs of oil and checked my oil no signs of milky stuff.

BUT I took the piping off of my turbo compressor and spotted oil all over the piping and a puddle sitting on my compressor. Its not black either, looks to me like fresh oil.

Could some help me diagnose my problems. I will be doing a compression test, but lets just say my compression is good. is the issue my valves?

But to me the obvious thing is my turbo, but wouldn't I be blowing blue smoke?

HELP!!! SOS someone please help me.

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my turbo did the same thing...... then about a month later it was out, getting rebuilt. white smoke can be oil buring in the exhuast. check the turbo for play. that what i would check.

Theres play side to side but a little. There is also a little in and out play.

same thing here...everytime i step on it, i get white smoke coming out. Just bought a new turbo, hopefully will be here by the end of the week so i know if thats the problem or not.

well you know how you are suppose to cap the vacuum port on the throttle body that was connected to the valve cover? Well I capped that off, but I am routing the valve cover port to the intake from the turbo. But the nipple on the intake is tiny. Could that be restricting the the vent? Or should I just buy a tiny air filter and put that on the valve cover and see what happens?

So I put that filter on the crank case vent not the pcv. Well took it for a drive and smelled oil. So I poped the hood and guess what the filter is totally filled with oil. I checked my turbo again no in and out play and barely any shaft play side to side. So I'm assuming there is something wrong with my motor. Someone just clarify that my motor is blown so I can just order a new motor.

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time for a catch can? excessive blow-by gasses could be caused by worn piston rings I'd do a compression check to see if any are low.

I'm on that today. I'll post results and you guys can let me know. Now, I'm off to class.

Okay

Cylinder 1= 190 psi 2= 100 psi 3= 140 psi 4= 180 psi


So without a leak down test what does this tell you? Btw I am done driving her until I can rebuild the block.

where do you get these commpresion checks done?

it tells me that cylinder 2 is gone and cylinder 3 is pretty much toast too. you should also do a wet compression test. basically you put a little bit of oil (my automotive book for school says about a 1/2 ounce) through the spark plug hole onto the top of the piston and do the compression check again. if the number goes up it means the problem is the cylinder rings, and if the number stays the same it means the head gasket or a valve is burnt.

btw, if you've never done a compression check before and have never been taught to do it correctly, you've got to crank the cylinders the same number of times... meaning when you're cranking for cylinder 1 you hear the engine go DAH-da-da-da-DAH-da-da-da... etc. the higher pitched one is the cylinder you are checking and when doing the test. You've gotta make sure you crank each cylinder either 4 or 5 times (as long as you do the same number for every cylinder) because if you crank one cylinder 5 times and the next only 3, obviously the numbers will be low.

If you already knew all that then I apologize, I just want to make sure you're getting accurate numbers before you spend all the time and money rebuilding the engine.

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any automotive service shop will do it, or, you can buy a compression tester at any auto parts store for $20-30. If you can change your own spark plugs, you can check your compression, you just need a friend to help you.

what i see here is compression from the cylinders leaking past the rings and pressurizing the crankcase. a pressurized crank case makes it hard for a gravity oil return line to work properly. the oil backs up and then you see smoke come out your turbo because its pushing oil out the seals because you cant get the oil back in the pan quick enough. you could also be burning more then normal amounts of oil if your compression numbers are that low.

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Thanks, but I already know how to do the compression test. I just ran out of day light to do the wet test. Will do it tomorrow, but I already have plans for my motor. I think I'm just going to take my motor out and take it to a shop and have them inspect it. My plans for right now is to use some forged pistons on my factory rods and get some head work done. So basically the only things that are being upgraded is the froged pistons and regrind cams. I think I can get my head ported and poilished for a good deal. I'm expecting a call from the shop today.

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i would source a set of 3s rods, and have the 5s crank machined to accept them.
the weak point on the 5s rods is the bolts, which ARP does not have an application for.

I was actually reseacrhing on the 3s rods. Well on ebay they are selling Eagle 3s rods for about $330 with the arp rod bolts too. Should I go that route? Or should I be cautious with that? Let me know, because I don't want to pull the trigger too early and screw myself.

i get alot of blow by gases, but randomly not all the time, like 3 times a day i can hear it its like if it were back fireing but way lower. would that affect my tune, what can i do to fix this problem?

This post has been edited by pabel89: Apr 8, 2008 - 2:19 PM

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well, if you have the budget for them sure, the eagles are an even better choice (theyre lighter).
if not, you can usually score a set of 3s rods pretty cheap over on mr2oc or alltrac.net (under 100$)

Wow, I never thought of that. Thanks for the advice manny. And yes, I do have a budget and my moms on the brink of killing me if I don't stop spending money on my car.

Thanks to Manny, I managed to score myself some 3s rods for 60 shipped. WOOT!!!!! Now I gotta source out some pistons. Trying to decide right now if I should get them before I send my block out. Not sure if I have any scratched on the cylinder walls.