It is complete
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four - 6G Celicas Forums
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
^^ damn.
my st205 swapandour Beams swap
Thats a really sweet build.
I'd be kind of scared with all those welds on the intake manifold cracking along some of those welds on high boost. What kind of boost are you planning on running or any power numbers as goals?
Amazing work again!
I'd be kind of scared with all those welds on the intake manifold cracking along some of those welds on high boost. What kind of boost are you planning on running or any power numbers as goals?
Amazing work again!
-Brad95 GSX: Stock motor, fp3065, corn = 10.9 @ 14006 R6: Strappd and sprocketed = 11.0 @ 12701 a4: daily94 Celica: totaled - someday have another celica thats fast instead of looks cool
ive pressure tested it to 35 psi, and ill only ever be running a max of 25 when i get a bigger turbo, on the stock one now im running 20.
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
nice car, very clean
one question, what is the gauge in the back corner of the engine bay?
one question, what is the gauge in the back corner of the engine bay?
fuel pressure.
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
wanna sell your 20b to me and upgrade? i love this thread so far...awesome work and dedication...good luck with the rest of the build!
I"M NOT A TOYOTA FAN, IM A FANATIC1984 accord hatch 5 speed (T-Belt)-Junkyard1991 VDUB jetta wolfsburg Ed. 5 speed (clutch)-junkyard1988 Dodge Aries K (sold)1969 Chevy El camino - Traded for celica1991 Dodge Daytona-Traded for Celica1988 Chevy Camaro-Work in Progress1989 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 - For Sale1995 Toyota Celica-Work in Progress
ha, yeah i need to upgrade pretty bad, its such a bottle neck now.
Nar i dont wanna sell it really, its been real good to me that little snail, exceeded all expectations.
After a couple of highway drives i now conclude its much meatier in the mid range with this new plenum, and more responsive, nothing was lost down low, and up top seems to have slightly more pull.
overall im fncken happy with it.....now to patent it
Nar i dont wanna sell it really, its been real good to me that little snail, exceeded all expectations.
After a couple of highway drives i now conclude its much meatier in the mid range with this new plenum, and more responsive, nothing was lost down low, and up top seems to have slightly more pull.
overall im fncken happy with it.....now to patent it
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
Well well well.
Been a long time since ive done any sort of update.
Manifold parts have arrived and departed, twice now.
To fill you all in, kyle from 6boost (reputable race manifold maker from australia) sent me the merge collector and the headflange (which incidentally was to suit a gen2, he wasnt aware gen3 has a different pattern as all the 3s stuff he has done has been gen2, he mostly does 4a, 2 and 1jz, rb20,25,26,30, sr20 etc) So i then jigged up the manifold by bolting the headflange to the head, and making a frame to hold the turbo in position, then weld rods in between the head flange and the collector so its in the right position, then sent it back to him.
Then got it back, with it tacked togther (see pics) just making sure that it didnt move, plus i had to jig up the wastegate pipe (again see pic, infront of alternator), so with that tacked its being sent off tomorrow back to 6boost for final welding and hpc coating in black.
Turbo is a Garrett GT3082 rated at 600hp, has a .64 rear housing on it at the present, if it doesnt make enough power (ide like 300kw atw), then ill get a .76 or .82 and see how that goes.
The wastegate will of course have a screamer pipe, none of this plumb back nonsence here.
I have all the oil and water lines ready to go, have the stainless for the screamer and dump, all the flanges have been made (gate, etc) bought a bung to weld into the dump for a wideband o2 sensor.
Should have the whole setup back in a week or two, after that there will be another week or so for me 2 do the dump and intercooler piping, finish and fit the twin pod intake, need to remove the drivers side OE thermo fan and fit a 10" davis craig on the front of the rad leaving me with more room for snails.
Ive bought some of that ALC heat shielding that ill put inbetween the hot **** (gate, turbine housing, screamer) and the colder **** (rad, hoses, alternator etc) also need to make a new cf airbox, so that'l take some time also. So still a few things to do, but it'l be all sweet in a few weeks.
Not much else to report, got a wheel alignment today because ive had the suspension out to fit the new tien springs, And i must say the handling now is so much better then it used to be, smooth, grippy and no more springs bottoming out clunking when i went over the larger bumps. Sure its a little higher now but its well worth it for the gains.
New window tint going on tomorrow because mine is at least 4 years old (has been on it since i got it) and is looking a smidge worse for wear, tint is going a bit cloudy and purple, it'l be legal tint on the front two, and a few shades darker on the rears.
This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: May 25, 2009 - 5:17 AM
Been a long time since ive done any sort of update.
Manifold parts have arrived and departed, twice now.
To fill you all in, kyle from 6boost (reputable race manifold maker from australia) sent me the merge collector and the headflange (which incidentally was to suit a gen2, he wasnt aware gen3 has a different pattern as all the 3s stuff he has done has been gen2, he mostly does 4a, 2 and 1jz, rb20,25,26,30, sr20 etc) So i then jigged up the manifold by bolting the headflange to the head, and making a frame to hold the turbo in position, then weld rods in between the head flange and the collector so its in the right position, then sent it back to him.
Then got it back, with it tacked togther (see pics) just making sure that it didnt move, plus i had to jig up the wastegate pipe (again see pic, infront of alternator), so with that tacked its being sent off tomorrow back to 6boost for final welding and hpc coating in black.
Turbo is a Garrett GT3082 rated at 600hp, has a .64 rear housing on it at the present, if it doesnt make enough power (ide like 300kw atw), then ill get a .76 or .82 and see how that goes.
The wastegate will of course have a screamer pipe, none of this plumb back nonsence here.
I have all the oil and water lines ready to go, have the stainless for the screamer and dump, all the flanges have been made (gate, etc) bought a bung to weld into the dump for a wideband o2 sensor.
Should have the whole setup back in a week or two, after that there will be another week or so for me 2 do the dump and intercooler piping, finish and fit the twin pod intake, need to remove the drivers side OE thermo fan and fit a 10" davis craig on the front of the rad leaving me with more room for snails.
Ive bought some of that ALC heat shielding that ill put inbetween the hot **** (gate, turbine housing, screamer) and the colder **** (rad, hoses, alternator etc) also need to make a new cf airbox, so that'l take some time also. So still a few things to do, but it'l be all sweet in a few weeks.
Not much else to report, got a wheel alignment today because ive had the suspension out to fit the new tien springs, And i must say the handling now is so much better then it used to be, smooth, grippy and no more springs bottoming out clunking when i went over the larger bumps. Sure its a little higher now but its well worth it for the gains.
New window tint going on tomorrow because mine is at least 4 years old (has been on it since i got it) and is looking a smidge worse for wear, tint is going a bit cloudy and purple, it'l be legal tint on the front two, and a few shades darker on the rears.
This post has been edited by Cuts_the_Pilot: May 25, 2009 - 5:17 AM
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
looking good mate
i'll be watching to see how you get on on the dyno as our cars are very similar and i like the new foggies too
if you are ever keen to sell those 18's let me know could be keen
well done
i'll be watching to see how you get on on the dyno as our cars are very similar and i like the new foggies too
if you are ever keen to sell those 18's let me know could be keen
well done
_______________May COTM 2011_______________
does your ct20b have any shaft play?
Mike W1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOURGT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC269awhp / 273ft-lbs
sure doesnt.
well it has the normal stuff all ammount for a bush bearing turbo, but other then that its micky mouse, which is rather supprising because ive ran it on 20 psi since ive had it (4 years) doesnt blow smoke or leak or anything...Loves it
got the manifold back from 6boost (well known Australian turbo manifold builder, guarentees his turbos for life and to make more power then any other manifold) today, she is all done now and man what a work of art, the man is a genuis. All the radius' are so smooth quality is second to none, the only thing im dissapointed with is i wanted black hpc coating not the wanky chrome one, but never mind, cbf changing that now.
pics are from the phone and poor quality but hopefull you can get the general gist of it all, im that frieken big kev'd about chucking it togther tomorrow. Progress pics will follow as they happen.
well it has the normal stuff all ammount for a bush bearing turbo, but other then that its micky mouse, which is rather supprising because ive ran it on 20 psi since ive had it (4 years) doesnt blow smoke or leak or anything...Loves it
got the manifold back from 6boost (well known Australian turbo manifold builder, guarentees his turbos for life and to make more power then any other manifold) today, she is all done now and man what a work of art, the man is a genuis. All the radius' are so smooth quality is second to none, the only thing im dissapointed with is i wanted black hpc coating not the wanky chrome one, but never mind, cbf changing that now.
pics are from the phone and poor quality but hopefull you can get the general gist of it all, im that frieken big kev'd about chucking it togther tomorrow. Progress pics will follow as they happen.
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
Well then i guess as im back i should tell the story of my eventful weekend in melb.
So was on my way to the dyno friday morning, turned off springvale road onto the freeway, following an old lancer doing about 2500 rpm, then as im on the onramp just about to merg the car cuts out, no ignition signal was getting to the tacho so i instantly knew it was dizzy or igniter related (or associated wiring). I rolled down a few hundred meters and pulled well off into the emergency stop lane.
Car cranked fine but no rpm signal.
So here i am in the middle of peak hour traffic, with a car that doesnt go on the side of the freeway...stoked.
Checked for any loose wiring, couldnt see any. So i called a couple of mates, they bought some tools down and also ump mans old 185. I tried the igniter off the 185 and that didnt fix it so by process of elimiation it had to be distributer related. So i pulled off the cap and as i did so it became apparent the rotor button free spins.
this was the cause.
Why this happened i have no idea, there is no load on the rotor button so there is no reason for it to break. Only things i can think of is something in the dizzy bound up and broke the teeth off they are only cintered metal, but still shouldnt break in a million years.
After saying many words that rhyme with fire truck and punt i decided the side of the road wasnt the best place to pull a rocker cover off and look for the pieces of dizzy. So called a towie and got a flat bed to the workshop, $80 it cost me which wasnt bad as it was about half an hour drive.
At the workshop the owner let me back the car into a corner and work on it myself, got the rocker cover off and found the first peice of dizzy easy, was sitting just under where the dizzy drive is on the cam. The other peice however was well on its way to the sump down one of the oil drains, maybe half way down. Managed to get it with a little magnet on a telascopic bit...that was an epic relief. Cleaned up the surface and chucked the rocker cover back on and let it settle.
So then we had to get another dizzy, called toyospares and they luckily had one in stock, so a mate took me the hour or so round trip to pay the $220 for a dizzy, sux the big floppy donky dick but had no choice, they had one...i needed it and they knew it :lolhit:
Back at the workshop chucked the dizzy in, checked the timing and it was all good. Drove around to the dyno room and started some serious business. By this time it was around 3:00. We noticed it was cutting out at around 6800 (well below 7300 redline) but still made 221 atw which was reasonable for 1 bar of boost. Ray (workshop owner) spent the best part of the next 4 hours fixing up the map that was in it, fixing idle and midrange etc. I did buy a 3 bar map sensor with the intention of chucking that in and running around 26 psi or so, but because of the dizzy issue there wasnt time)
So called it a night, i had a car cruise the next day, ray just said tell me how it drives where its flat, hunting etc and he'l play with the map on his lappy at home to fix any holes etc.
Monday came around and back at the workshop, this time got there without a hitch, straight on the dyno. I suggested trying the igniter off the supra that was in his workshop to see how that goes with the missing, as it tuned out my igniter was causing the missing up high, so the rest of the tuning was done with that igniter and ive sinced chucked in the spare i have.
Spend the whole day (ray managed to jiggle stuff around so he had time) tuning the mid/top end, i said cap the boost at around 20 and revs around stock redline (7200).
Stock radiator was very much in struggle town trying to keep the temps in check on the rollers, starting a run at around 85-90 would see around 105 deg c by the end of it (24 sec ramp). Ill be looking into an oil cooler very seriously too.
Injectors are now at 90% duty and we are at load point 20 (last point) on the map so untill i chuck the 3 bar in this is as much power as it shall make.
So with 265kw atw (around 360 hp at the wheels, which is around 400-420 at the engine) at 22 psi and 7250 im pretty happy (non shootout mode, long ramp) ill look into the rad and oil cooler, then sometime down the track ill think about going back to melbourne and chucking the 3bar map and some revs at it.
hot stuff
Some quick shots from a photoshoot me and tang did friday night. Album can be found here: http://www.tangcla.com/photos/celica_090807
So was on my way to the dyno friday morning, turned off springvale road onto the freeway, following an old lancer doing about 2500 rpm, then as im on the onramp just about to merg the car cuts out, no ignition signal was getting to the tacho so i instantly knew it was dizzy or igniter related (or associated wiring). I rolled down a few hundred meters and pulled well off into the emergency stop lane.
Car cranked fine but no rpm signal.
So here i am in the middle of peak hour traffic, with a car that doesnt go on the side of the freeway...stoked.
Checked for any loose wiring, couldnt see any. So i called a couple of mates, they bought some tools down and also ump mans old 185. I tried the igniter off the 185 and that didnt fix it so by process of elimiation it had to be distributer related. So i pulled off the cap and as i did so it became apparent the rotor button free spins.
this was the cause.
Why this happened i have no idea, there is no load on the rotor button so there is no reason for it to break. Only things i can think of is something in the dizzy bound up and broke the teeth off they are only cintered metal, but still shouldnt break in a million years.
After saying many words that rhyme with fire truck and punt i decided the side of the road wasnt the best place to pull a rocker cover off and look for the pieces of dizzy. So called a towie and got a flat bed to the workshop, $80 it cost me which wasnt bad as it was about half an hour drive.
At the workshop the owner let me back the car into a corner and work on it myself, got the rocker cover off and found the first peice of dizzy easy, was sitting just under where the dizzy drive is on the cam. The other peice however was well on its way to the sump down one of the oil drains, maybe half way down. Managed to get it with a little magnet on a telascopic bit...that was an epic relief. Cleaned up the surface and chucked the rocker cover back on and let it settle.
So then we had to get another dizzy, called toyospares and they luckily had one in stock, so a mate took me the hour or so round trip to pay the $220 for a dizzy, sux the big floppy donky dick but had no choice, they had one...i needed it and they knew it :lolhit:
Back at the workshop chucked the dizzy in, checked the timing and it was all good. Drove around to the dyno room and started some serious business. By this time it was around 3:00. We noticed it was cutting out at around 6800 (well below 7300 redline) but still made 221 atw which was reasonable for 1 bar of boost. Ray (workshop owner) spent the best part of the next 4 hours fixing up the map that was in it, fixing idle and midrange etc. I did buy a 3 bar map sensor with the intention of chucking that in and running around 26 psi or so, but because of the dizzy issue there wasnt time)
So called it a night, i had a car cruise the next day, ray just said tell me how it drives where its flat, hunting etc and he'l play with the map on his lappy at home to fix any holes etc.
Monday came around and back at the workshop, this time got there without a hitch, straight on the dyno. I suggested trying the igniter off the supra that was in his workshop to see how that goes with the missing, as it tuned out my igniter was causing the missing up high, so the rest of the tuning was done with that igniter and ive sinced chucked in the spare i have.
Spend the whole day (ray managed to jiggle stuff around so he had time) tuning the mid/top end, i said cap the boost at around 20 and revs around stock redline (7200).
Stock radiator was very much in struggle town trying to keep the temps in check on the rollers, starting a run at around 85-90 would see around 105 deg c by the end of it (24 sec ramp). Ill be looking into an oil cooler very seriously too.
Injectors are now at 90% duty and we are at load point 20 (last point) on the map so untill i chuck the 3 bar in this is as much power as it shall make.
So with 265kw atw (around 360 hp at the wheels, which is around 400-420 at the engine) at 22 psi and 7250 im pretty happy (non shootout mode, long ramp) ill look into the rad and oil cooler, then sometime down the track ill think about going back to melbourne and chucking the 3bar map and some revs at it.
hot stuff
Some quick shots from a photoshoot me and tang did friday night. Album can be found here: http://www.tangcla.com/photos/celica_090807
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
>
is it just me or is that glowing red?!?!?!
QUOTE (Cuts_the_Pilot @ Aug 10, 2009 - 7:28 PM) 
>
is it just me or is that glowing red?!?!?!
A work in (extremely slow) progress
Probably why it was labeled "hot stuff."
'97 ST\ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+[sold 10/18]'93 MX-5LE
psh i dont read i look at pictures
A work in (extremely slow) progress
very nice project.
i like the carbon fibre airbox too, looks good.
the adjustable shocks you are using , do they come with the SS design? or do you need to weld over the original SS arm on the bottom of the shocks?
i like the carbon fibre airbox too, looks good.
the adjustable shocks you are using , do they come with the SS design? or do you need to weld over the original SS arm on the bottom of the shocks?
http://www.st-autosport.com1994 JDM Celica GT-4 WRC Group-A1991 MR2 3S-GE Hardtop
No welding required, they are the full super street, im not keen on welding suspension components.
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
ok thank you very much
http://www.st-autosport.com1994 JDM Celica GT-4 WRC Group-A1991 MR2 3S-GE Hardtop
>
Super Street? Tein? I thought they were KYB? You mean Super Strut?
I think you did a marvelous job on this car. I wouldn't have thought those wheels would look as good as they do on the car. +1 for keeping everything clean.
I can't wait until my silver gt4 lands. I have found some inspiration in yours.
What did/do you think of the KYB super specials? I've had some coilovers (Tein, Silkroad, Cusco) on other cars and I've found them to be bouncy (overdamped), unconforatable and performance on the track/auto-x was poorer than an OEM Bilstein/spring combo.
The damper selection for ST205's is very poor, so I'd like to know what you think of the KYB's and what you are comparing them to?
QUOTE (Cuts_the_Pilot @ Dec 18, 2009 - 6:47 AM)
>No welding required, they are the full super street, im not keen on welding suspension components.
Super Street? Tein? I thought they were KYB? You mean Super Strut?
I think you did a marvelous job on this car. I wouldn't have thought those wheels would look as good as they do on the car. +1 for keeping everything clean.
I can't wait until my silver gt4 lands. I have found some inspiration in yours.
What did/do you think of the KYB super specials? I've had some coilovers (Tein, Silkroad, Cusco) on other cars and I've found them to be bouncy (overdamped), unconforatable and performance on the track/auto-x was poorer than an OEM Bilstein/spring combo.
The damper selection for ST205's is very poor, so I'd like to know what you think of the KYB's and what you are comparing them to?
One of the cool things about being fairly new to a forum is finding all these amazing threads.
The dedication and work you have put into this car is amazing -pure awesomeness
The dedication and work you have put into this car is amazing -pure awesomeness
Yeah they are KYB super street adjustable shocks, im very very happy with them, (using tein springs that have been lowered extra, also very happy with them).
The wheels came with the car and i think they suit it very well so have had no need to change.
Glad i could be of inspiration to some people, i just do it as i see it, not modding in any particular direction or for any purpose.
I have cusco coil overs in my jzx100 chaser, the springs are uber stiff but its uncomfortable, im happy with them, the kyb/tein combo is slightly softer then the cuscos in the chaser (on the 3rd damper setting) good compromise between handling and comfort. I would recommend them.
Thanks for your kind words folks, I havnt finished with it in any way, looking for some recaro's at the moment as leather isnt the best for holding in a skinny short dude
The wheels came with the car and i think they suit it very well so have had no need to change.
Glad i could be of inspiration to some people, i just do it as i see it, not modding in any particular direction or for any purpose.
I have cusco coil overs in my jzx100 chaser, the springs are uber stiff but its uncomfortable, im happy with them, the kyb/tein combo is slightly softer then the cuscos in the chaser (on the 3rd damper setting) good compromise between handling and comfort. I would recommend them.
Thanks for your kind words folks, I havnt finished with it in any way, looking for some recaro's at the moment as leather isnt the best for holding in a skinny short dude
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
do you have the part numbers for the kyb shocks? i can't find them on their website? maybe they're discontinued? 
http://www.st-autosport.com1994 JDM Celica GT-4 WRC Group-A1991 MR2 3S-GE Hardtop
>
I know how that feels. I had leather in my FD rx7 track car and I was always sliding around like a wet-and-wild. So to solve that problem I bought an RZ edition RX7 that came stock with Recaro Carbon/Kevlar 1 piece buckets.
QUOTE (Cuts_the_Pilot @ Dec 19, 2009 - 5:07 AM)
>I havnt finished with it in any way, looking for some recaro's at the moment as leather isnt the best for holding in a skinny short dude
I know how that feels. I had leather in my FD rx7 track car and I was always sliding around like a wet-and-wild. So to solve that problem I bought an RZ edition RX7 that came stock with Recaro Carbon/Kevlar 1 piece buckets.
I've seen 2 recaro front seats for sale in NZ came off a SS-II
ST202 SS-II CELICA threadNew Zealand members check inSticky thread's: How to contribute and troubleshoot.
I have the part numbers somewhere, i'll see if i can dig them out.
Im after some aftermarket seats really, i dont mind the seats from the ss II and III and the stock gt4 recaros but something aftermarket would be nicer, newer styling and all.
Im after some aftermarket seats really, i dont mind the seats from the ss II and III and the stock gt4 recaros but something aftermarket would be nicer, newer styling and all.
ST205 Group A Rallye GT-Four, #61 of 77............600hp GT3582rGRX133 Toyota Mark X 350s
comes ST202 rails (ST205 and ST202 have different widths of rail)
thats them there
This post has been edited by Rusty: Dec 19, 2009 - 11:36 PM
ST202 SS-II CELICA threadNew Zealand members check inSticky thread's: How to contribute and troubleshoot.
As I expected my ST205 struts are going.
Cuts_the_Pilot, can you post the part numbers for the KYB superspecials. I can't seem to find them or even a vendor who has them for sale.
Cuts_the_Pilot, can you post the part numbers for the KYB superspecials. I can't seem to find them or even a vendor who has them for sale.
>
RHDJAPAN.com my friend. Or if you want some TEIN HA's I will have mine up for sale soonly, just way to stiff for me as my daily driver for in my town.
This post has been edited by TEAMFaint: Jul 14, 2010 - 12:54 PM
QUOTE (sips @ Jul 14, 2010 - 12:52 PM)
>As I expected my ST205 struts are going.
Cuts_the_Pilot, can you post the part numbers for the KYB superspecials. I can't seem to find them or even a vendor who has them for sale.
Cuts_the_Pilot, can you post the part numbers for the KYB superspecials. I can't seem to find them or even a vendor who has them for sale.
RHDJAPAN.com my friend. Or if you want some TEIN HA's I will have mine up for sale soonly, just way to stiff for me as my daily driver for in my town.
This post has been edited by TEAMFaint: Jul 14, 2010 - 12:54 PM
current project: looking :(
^ I only see ST202 Super specials. I know both use a superstrut but I don't belive they are identical. I don't think you can use an ST202 Super special on an ST205.