I need to know what the ignition timing for a '93 3S-GTE is [I know the 5S is 10BTDC but I need 3S-GTE] and a vacuum diagram for it. I'm having a bit of trouble with a slightly rough idle and need to set the timing afterwards. Also the idle is too high and I figure both issues are related. The sensors were working fine when I rebuilt the motor so I have to assume they are working fine still.
Further does anyone have a good method for identifying vacuum leaks? I've heard of the carb cleaner method but I worry that may damage a sensor as they are very sensitive to that stuff.

Please guys - any help you can give me would be great. Let me know if you need any more info about my setup [feel free to check out my profile for info as well]

Thanks in advance.

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jan 21, 2008 - 7:46 AM

Come on man - noone will help me out? I've searched and checked the stickies but our search will just bring up every topic that has the word timing or ignition in it and that's like 16 pgs worth of stuff. I even skimmed through that info but no luck.
Help me out guys.

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timing is 10*BTDC on the 3s as well.
soapy water will work for vac leaks as well.

You rock Pressure!!!
I knew I could count on this site.
Much thanks man.

BTW - Where are the power steering idle up lines and would this cause a rough idle even sitting still?

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they are normall attached to the back of the pump, and to air bypass hardlines attached to the back of the intake manifold.

Much thanks bro.
On the soapy water test I'm looking for bubbles or the water to be sucked in?

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I looked last night and there are two vac lines on the very top back of the Intake Manifold - are those the PS idle up lines? Cause one of mine is capped off and I would really like to know where they go if someone could provide a quicky pic with labels - that would be much appreciated. Also, the vac hard lines on top that look like black coffee straws with rubber vac lines coming off either side - I have one of them is also capped off.
I'd like to get everything hooked back like stock and start from there. I checked for leaks last night and found one on the boost gauge itself - fixed that but I must still have at least one more.
A vac routing diagram or labeled pics would really help and make my weekend if I could finish this last bit and have her running great. She does run beautifully if I'm accelerating. Also please answer the easy question above. i suspect that at idle I should be looking for the soapy water to be sucked in [just makes sense]. Funny thing is we use the same method at work for checking our inlet and outlet manifolds.
Thanks in advance for any help guys - this is what makes this site so great IMO.

I'll get pics in a bit to illustrate what I'm talking about in a bit after it stops raining freezxing cold rain

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jan 18, 2008 - 10:03 AM

OK - I'm pretty sure I have her all hooked up and correct. She starts much easier now and holds idle well. The only problem now is she idles up for cold start [around 1750RPM] but never comes back down. If I drive her she will of course dip down when a load is put on her and the gear/speed dictates but if I put in the clutch she idles back up. This of course is putting undue wear and tear on my new motor so I'd like to get some help on this.
What should I check? I already checked the idle adjustment screw and it's almost all the way CW.
Help guys.

first put your foot behind the gas pedal and pull the pedal towards you, i would have a problem with the cable sticking a bit.....

Ill try that - thanks.
I wish I could find a vacuum diagram or someone on here would post one up. I've been searching on here and alltrac.net since 1 but no luck so far. I'm really thinking it's the cold start idle up thing [whatever you call it].

celicatech.com should have everything you need in the bgb section.

I'm checking it out right now - thanks. Unfortunately I have to leave in 5 mins and will not have internet all weekend.

Fixed - Saturday I found the vacuum problem with no help from that crappy BGB setup on celicatech [they really need to organize those pgs better] and she's been driving better than ever since. I love how stock she feels. I've been all over Houston buying $300 worth of parts and just replacing every stupid little thing I could find wrong with her all weekend.
Thanks Dr.Tweak, Pressure2 and Lagos for informational help during this rebuild progress.
I feel fulfilled and so much more educated on this motor now that I did the rebuild. I feel ready to tackle the e-153/LSD/Dual Syncros/Custom axles swap next [after tons of research and parts gathering of course]
<-all smiles thanks to 3S-GTE power

Oh and ignoring the ricers who wanna race at every light has never been more fun

This post has been edited by DEATH: Jan 21, 2008 - 7:27 AM

so what was it after all??? VSV? TVSV?

No it was a hose that runs from the hardlines next to the distributer up to the end of the intake manifold - the large one that I see from your pics was hooked up [that's what I used as a guide to reattach the hoses after the rebuild]. I plugged both ends and the car idles beautifully, warms up like stock and hasn't bogged down yet since - even in this cold cold weather this morning.
IDK - it worked with your setup but it's all good now.
BTW - Why does the BOV have a line running to the intake/boost gauge line? WTF does that do?

??? All BOV's need a vaccum source? In this case when i got the car it was getting it from the coffe straw vac off of the TB, so i capped the coffe straw and "T"'d off of a proper intake manifold vac, so the bov works the way its supposed to (before it would just flutter) and the boost guage is more accurate this way...

Did not know that. I have always used stock recirc valve as it works great.
I've never seen that line before but then again I never really cared about BOV's either. I gotta admit tho - I do like the sound of this one.