I went through the trouble of installing a mech. oil pressure gauge on my ST. I drive a lot, just wanted to keep an eye on it.

Well the install was fairly smooth with a little trouble finding the right T-fitting for the block so I could retain the factory sending unit. But now I can't get the damn fittings to stop leaking. I've been trimming and readjusting the ends of the nylon line trying to find a way to stop them from leaking, but the ferrules either aren't sealing against the fitting correctly or they're crimping the line severely and causing it to crack. I just can't find a place between too tight and not tight enough on these fittings. I've contemplated running copper lines to replace the nylon, at least from the block up to the firewall, but that stuff seems like it'd be a pain to route even more so than the nylon.

Has anyone installed one of these before and what's the best way to stop the fittings from leaking oil?

easiest solution is to get an electric gauge, do you really want to make another potential oil leak and have hot (220 degrees) engine oil under high pressure inches from your face while driving?

agreed, u should have went with an electrical gauge. i dont have any other advice, sry.

electric gauge is onlu 3 more wires than mechanical and alot safer, theres a good reason mechanical guages are sold at dollar stores like walmart and biglots.

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just didn't see the point of paying nearly 3x as much for an electric gauge and it's only half sweep

did you use any teflon tape anywhere ?

have you tried to put some thing like "loctite" over the screw?

I have teflon tape on each large fitting, and permatex threadlocker on each compression fitting. The problem is that if I get the compression fitting too loose it will leak through the threads and out of the hole that the nylon line goes through. I gradually tightened the fittings over several days to try and find a good spot to stop, but it went from leaking through the threads to compressing the ferrule to the point of cracking the line. I think I'm just going to break down and buy the copper tubing kit and spend the extra 3 days it's going to take to route it without kinking it up. At least that stuff can take some compression without collapsing. I tried searching for the small brass inserts that go in the ends of soft tubing to stop collapsing, but unfortunately I don't think they're made for 1/8" tubing. Looked EVERYWHERE. I also had to spend 15 bucks on a simple 1/8" NPT to M10x1.0 (oil sending unit threads) brass adapter. Lame.

for $45 you could have bought an electric gauge and had it installed in about an afternoon.

Can the oil sending unit on our cars be deleted without tripping the idiot light?

i'm not sure, i know on some other cars you can get a sender which runs both the light and gauge just fine. my friends eclipse is like that.

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if you delete the sender then the light does not go on, or you get a tunertoys adapter and use both.