I have a 3sgte with an up graded turbo (T4).... about how long should i set my turbo timer for?
turbo timer - 6G Celicas Forums
doesnt matter what kind of turbo u have, depends on how hard u push ur car. so if u gave it a good a hard drive, maybe a minute, otherwise i would set it for 30 seconds any other time.
You say you don't understand how we go dumb, but have you ever been where i'm from?-=-] Livin it in tha bay's a lil different [-=-
even when pushing 20lbs?
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besides just a turbo upgrade, what other mods do you have?
QUOTE(dagreat1 @ Dec 4, 2007 - 12:27 PM) [snapback]619549[/snapback]
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even when pushing 20lbs?
even when pushing 20lbs?
besides just a turbo upgrade, what other mods do you have?
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
2nd 3sgte JDM Motor Swap Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim Polished Turbo(15psi) South Florida Performance turbo manifold SFP 3" downpipe Full 3" exhaust setup(resonator, high flow cat, flex pipe, apexi n1 muffler) Spearco Front Mount Intercooler w/ 2.5" pipes SAFC Supra 550cc injectors Wolfkatz high flow fuel rail 255lph walbro fuel pump Braided stainless fuel lines Tial 38mm wastegate 1993 MR2 E153 tranny ACT HD clutch kit(brand new) 13" Big Brake kit w/ Wilwood calipers GT rear disc brake conversion Japanese rear motor mount(not a custom mount) . Polished engine parts HKS SS blow off valve Magnecor plug wires
i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.
This post has been edited by dagreat1: Dec 4, 2007 - 12:39 PM
i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.
This post has been edited by dagreat1: Dec 4, 2007 - 12:39 PM
before i get my timer on, i wait til the oil pressure dropped to 40
This post has been edited by LewFX: Dec 4, 2007 - 12:50 PM
This post has been edited by LewFX: Dec 4, 2007 - 12:50 PM
Lew - what?
DaGreat1 - post some pics seems like a nice little setup you have.
For reference - I set my timer for 1 minute if I'm driving around normally, 2 if I drove it hard.
And it matters a little bit what turbo you have because some are water cooled & oil cooled or both and different substances have different requirements.
DaGreat1 - post some pics seems like a nice little setup you have.
For reference - I set my timer for 1 minute if I'm driving around normally, 2 if I drove it hard.
And it matters a little bit what turbo you have because some are water cooled & oil cooled or both and different substances have different requirements.
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water & oil cooled = don't use a turbo timer
oil cooled = use a turbo timer, 1 min is a typical run time
oil cooled = use a turbo timer, 1 min is a typical run time
Well, I wouldn't say DON'T because it sounds negative. It's not required. It's always a good idea to warm the car up before boosting and cool it down after driving.
This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 1:10 PM
This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 1:10 PM
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i put 2 new ones up in my profile... i'll put up more but i have to run to class.... todays the last day and then have a calc 3 final tomorrow... yipee!
uh... so i bought a blitz FATT for nothing since i got a oil + water cooled turbo?
This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Dec 4, 2007 - 1:41 PM
This post has been edited by elvasoshexai: Dec 4, 2007 - 1:41 PM
98 Celica GT -- 5S-FTE: 230WHP 237FT-LBS06 Civic EXMy For Sale Thread
mines oil and water cooled but i still want to use the timer. usually i wait 2-3 minutes to turn it off
It depends on all kinds of things.
When I get from the highway and have to wait a minute for a traffic light and then drive slowly/normal (2k rpm)I dont use the TT or max 10 seconds. When its green all the way to my house and have done some high rpms speeds its about 3 minutes.
This post has been edited by Kadett: Dec 4, 2007 - 2:01 PM
When I get from the highway and have to wait a minute for a traffic light and then drive slowly/normal (2k rpm)I dont use the TT or max 10 seconds. When its green all the way to my house and have done some high rpms speeds its about 3 minutes.
This post has been edited by Kadett: Dec 4, 2007 - 2:01 PM
JDM Powerplant installed, BPU coming very soon!
3 minutes just seems like a waste of gas to me; especially with the water cooling.
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you are going to do more harm with the safc trying to control 550s, then you will by running without a turbo timer. but to answer your question, i set mine for 45sec, and 1min20sec, if i JUST got done beating on it.
QUOTE(dagreat1 @ Dec 4, 2007 - 12:39 PM) [snapback]619557[/snapback]
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2nd 3sgte JDM Motor Swap Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim Polished Turbo(15psi) South Florida Performance turbo manifold SFP 3" downpipe Full 3" exhaust setup(resonator, high flow cat, flex pipe, apexi n1 muffler) Spearco Front Mount Intercooler w/ 2.5" pipes SAFC Supra 550cc injectors Wolfkatz high flow fuel rail 255lph walbro fuel pump Braided stainless fuel lines Tial 38mm wastegate 1993 MR2 E153 tranny ACT HD clutch kit(brand new) 13" Big Brake kit w/ Wilwood calipers GT rear disc brake conversion Japanese rear motor mount(not a custom mount) . Polished engine parts HKS SS blow off valve Magnecor plug wires
i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.
2nd 3sgte JDM Motor Swap Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim Polished Turbo(15psi) South Florida Performance turbo manifold SFP 3" downpipe Full 3" exhaust setup(resonator, high flow cat, flex pipe, apexi n1 muffler) Spearco Front Mount Intercooler w/ 2.5" pipes SAFC Supra 550cc injectors Wolfkatz high flow fuel rail 255lph walbro fuel pump Braided stainless fuel lines Tial 38mm wastegate 1993 MR2 E153 tranny ACT HD clutch kit(brand new) 13" Big Brake kit w/ Wilwood calipers GT rear disc brake conversion Japanese rear motor mount(not a custom mount) . Polished engine parts HKS SS blow off valve Magnecor plug wires
i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.
you are going to do more harm with the safc trying to control 550s, then you will by running without a turbo timer. but to answer your question, i set mine for 45sec, and 1min20sec, if i JUST got done beating on it.
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
the purpose for the TT was when turbos didn't have the advancement of water and oil cooling.
With oil cooling alone, when people would turn off their cars, the oil pump would stop and flow ceases. This would leave a small pool of oil left inside the turbo journals, which from the heat would coke. Thus giving negative affects to performance & part longevity.
With the advancement to oil & water cooling there is no longer an issue with oil coking. Which brings the bandaid of the TT to a superfluous piece of equipment.
Although I do highly agree that you need to let your car cool off for a BRIEF period of time after a nice hard drive. really no longer than a min or 2 at the most. Reason why is most modern cars now have provisions for after you turn the car off, it keeps a fan on or other cooling measures. the longer your TT runs the easier it is to steal.
With oil cooling alone, when people would turn off their cars, the oil pump would stop and flow ceases. This would leave a small pool of oil left inside the turbo journals, which from the heat would coke. Thus giving negative affects to performance & part longevity.
With the advancement to oil & water cooling there is no longer an issue with oil coking. Which brings the bandaid of the TT to a superfluous piece of equipment.
Although I do highly agree that you need to let your car cool off for a BRIEF period of time after a nice hard drive. really no longer than a min or 2 at the most. Reason why is most modern cars now have provisions for after you turn the car off, it keeps a fan on or other cooling measures. the longer your TT runs the easier it is to steal.
There are safe guards against being stolen. First and foremost being the E-brake must be up to enable the TT.
MyFlickrMyeBay_Perpetual Aperture_
i wouldn't like the E-brake as a safty..
only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?
This post has been edited by playr158: Dec 4, 2007 - 4:42 PM
only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?
This post has been edited by playr158: Dec 4, 2007 - 4:42 PM
for the most part, i agree that turbo timers are a ricer toy, but if you read the owners manual for an alltrac or mr2, they even tell you to let the car idle for about 120sec or so after hard driving.
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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I think "track day" is something few and far between to negate the safety feature altogether. That being said, your point is still valid.
Regardless of the ebrake light being on - without the key wouldn't the steering wheel lock?
This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 11:32 PM
QUOTE(playr158 @ Dec 4, 2007 - 4:42 PM) [snapback]619633[/snapback]
>
i wouldn't like the E-brake as a safty..
only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?
i wouldn't like the E-brake as a safty..
only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?
I think "track day" is something few and far between to negate the safety feature altogether. That being said, your point is still valid.
Regardless of the ebrake light being on - without the key wouldn't the steering wheel lock?
This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 11:32 PM
MyFlickrMyeBay_Perpetual Aperture_
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what do u mean?
QUOTE(lagos @ Dec 4, 2007 - 4:23 PM) [snapback]619625[/snapback]
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>
you are going to do more harm with the safc trying to control 550s, then you will by running without a turbo timer.
>
QUOTE(dagreat1 @ Dec 4, 2007 - 12:39 PM) [snapback]619557[/snapback]
>
2nd 3sgte JDM Motor Swap Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim Polished Turbo(15psi) South Florida Performance turbo manifold SFP 3" downpipe Full 3" exhaust setup(resonator, high flow cat, flex pipe, apexi n1 muffler) Spearco Front Mount Intercooler w/ 2.5" pipes SAFC Supra 550cc injectors Wolfkatz high flow fuel rail 255lph walbro fuel pump Braided stainless fuel lines Tial 38mm wastegate 1993 MR2 E153 tranny ACT HD clutch kit(brand new) 13" Big Brake kit w/ Wilwood calipers GT rear disc brake conversion Japanese rear motor mount(not a custom mount) . Polished engine parts HKS SS blow off valve Magnecor plug wires
i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.
2nd 3sgte JDM Motor Swap Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim Polished Turbo(15psi) South Florida Performance turbo manifold SFP 3" downpipe Full 3" exhaust setup(resonator, high flow cat, flex pipe, apexi n1 muffler) Spearco Front Mount Intercooler w/ 2.5" pipes SAFC Supra 550cc injectors Wolfkatz high flow fuel rail 255lph walbro fuel pump Braided stainless fuel lines Tial 38mm wastegate 1993 MR2 E153 tranny ACT HD clutch kit(brand new) 13" Big Brake kit w/ Wilwood calipers GT rear disc brake conversion Japanese rear motor mount(not a custom mount) . Polished engine parts HKS SS blow off valve Magnecor plug wires
i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.
you are going to do more harm with the safc trying to control 550s, then you will by running without a turbo timer.
what do u mean?
It's recommended you use a gauged FPR to turn the fuel up, then tune it down with the AFC.
This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 6:40 PM
This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 6:40 PM
MyFlickrMyeBay_Perpetual Aperture_
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i recommend you register to mr2oc, and search for "safc". its a great tool for minor adjustments on stock injectors (i use one!), but you get serious timing advance when you use it with bigger injectors, because of the large amount of correction that has to be made to make the car run right.
where did the car come from? did you buy it the way it is? whats the story?
QUOTE(dagreat1 @ Dec 4, 2007 - 6:27 PM) [snapback]619682[/snapback]
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what do u mean?
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QUOTE(lagos @ Dec 4, 2007 - 4:23 PM) [snapback]619625[/snapback]
>
>
you are going to do more harm with the safc trying to control 550s, then you will by running without a turbo timer.
>
QUOTE(dagreat1 @ Dec 4, 2007 - 12:39 PM) [snapback]619557[/snapback]
>
2nd 3sgte JDM Motor Swap Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim Polished Turbo(15psi) South Florida Performance turbo manifold SFP 3" downpipe Full 3" exhaust setup(resonator, high flow cat, flex pipe, apexi n1 muffler) Spearco Front Mount Intercooler w/ 2.5" pipes SAFC Supra 550cc injectors Wolfkatz high flow fuel rail 255lph walbro fuel pump Braided stainless fuel lines Tial 38mm wastegate 1993 MR2 E153 tranny ACT HD clutch kit(brand new) 13" Big Brake kit w/ Wilwood calipers GT rear disc brake conversion Japanese rear motor mount(not a custom mount) . Polished engine parts HKS SS blow off valve Magnecor plug wires
i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.
2nd 3sgte JDM Motor Swap Garrett T3/T04e 60 trim Polished Turbo(15psi) South Florida Performance turbo manifold SFP 3" downpipe Full 3" exhaust setup(resonator, high flow cat, flex pipe, apexi n1 muffler) Spearco Front Mount Intercooler w/ 2.5" pipes SAFC Supra 550cc injectors Wolfkatz high flow fuel rail 255lph walbro fuel pump Braided stainless fuel lines Tial 38mm wastegate 1993 MR2 E153 tranny ACT HD clutch kit(brand new) 13" Big Brake kit w/ Wilwood calipers GT rear disc brake conversion Japanese rear motor mount(not a custom mount) . Polished engine parts HKS SS blow off valve Magnecor plug wires
i know ya didn't need to know half of that, but w.e.
you are going to do more harm with the safc trying to control 550s, then you will by running without a turbo timer.
what do u mean?
i recommend you register to mr2oc, and search for "safc". its a great tool for minor adjustments on stock injectors (i use one!), but you get serious timing advance when you use it with bigger injectors, because of the large amount of correction that has to be made to make the car run right.
where did the car come from? did you buy it the way it is? whats the story?
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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dan, what do you mean?
a turbo timer gets wired to the ebrake. if anyone tries to let the brake down, it turns off the car. thats how the safety feature works.
QUOTE(playr158 @ Dec 4, 2007 - 4:42 PM) [snapback]619633[/snapback]
>
i wouldn't like the E-brake as a safty..
only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?
i wouldn't like the E-brake as a safty..
only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?
dan, what do you mean?
a turbo timer gets wired to the ebrake. if anyone tries to let the brake down, it turns off the car. thats how the safety feature works.
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
>
i know how it works read what i wrote.
If you are out hard driving and come to a stop, situations such as track days, or driving on a hard twisty road and stopping at a gas station. you need to get out of your car. you do not apply your parking brake. you simply leave the car in gear.
why do you do this?!
READ whats quoted above
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thus if you have no parking brake applied, how are you going to use the TT since its safety wired to your ebrake..
come on now.
QUOTE(lagos @ Dec 4, 2007 - 6:59 PM) [snapback]619693[/snapback]
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dan, what do you mean?
a turbo timer gets wired to the ebrake. if anyone tries to let the brake down, it turns off the car. thats how the safety feature works.
>
QUOTE(playr158 @ Dec 4, 2007 - 4:42 PM) [snapback]619633[/snapback]
>
i wouldn't like the E-brake as a safty..
only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?
i wouldn't like the E-brake as a safty..
only because when you are driving hard (IE track days/mountain runs)
you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
any suggestions for another way to safeguard, for those who fall under that catagory?
dan, what do you mean?
a turbo timer gets wired to the ebrake. if anyone tries to let the brake down, it turns off the car. thats how the safety feature works.
i know how it works read what i wrote.
If you are out hard driving and come to a stop, situations such as track days, or driving on a hard twisty road and stopping at a gas station. you need to get out of your car. you do not apply your parking brake. you simply leave the car in gear.
why do you do this?!
READ whats quoted above
>
QUOTE
>you are braking hard, this brake heat normally lasts just as long as your engine heat.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
when you stop you shouldn't be applying your e-brake, but leaving your car in gear to hold it.
having an e-brake applied on heated brakes can easily cause severe rotor damage.
thus if you have no parking brake applied, how are you going to use the TT since its safety wired to your ebrake..
come on now.
Doesn't the ebrake have a seperate set of shoes inside the rotor, and doesn't use the calipers, eliminating the risk of warping?
Yes this is what I thought. I couldn't remember but after double checking:
The e-brake doesn't use the calipers, so there no chance of warping the rotor.
This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 11:21 PM
Yes this is what I thought. I couldn't remember but after double checking:
The e-brake doesn't use the calipers, so there no chance of warping the rotor.
This post has been edited by Supersprynt: Dec 4, 2007 - 11:21 PM
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yeah dude, the ebrake has its own shoe that contacts the inside of the center section of the rotor. it wont do any damage to your rotors or brakes after hard driving.
This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 5, 2007 - 3:18 AM
This post has been edited by lagos: Dec 5, 2007 - 3:18 AM
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
The point exactly. The e-brake engages the brake drum, not the rotor. Even in the GT with its 4 wheel disc there is a small brake drum inside the rotor housing that engages when you pull on that e brake. The rotors heat up, yes, but the e-brake does not lock these. Unless you're using your handbrake for most of your stopping (which you should be slapped if you're doing), leaving the e-brake on with hot rotors will have little to no effect.
This post has been edited by thespacepanda: Dec 4, 2007 - 11:42 PM
This post has been edited by thespacepanda: Dec 4, 2007 - 11:42 PM
"He won't come out of the bathroom. He keeps telling us we're dark somethings and not his friends.""Hmm. Ask him if he's the dragon reborn.""What?""Just do it."".......He said yes.""Tell him you are not darklings. He should open up."".......Sweet. Thanks.""No problem."
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It's blasphemy on this forum but anyway: I like to do a bit of high speed driving on the highway. Only when it's about empty or a few cars on it (I slow down to about 15mph above limit when passing other cars). When driving the car up to 5-7k rpm (doing about 100-112mph) the manifold itself is red glowing of the heat . Now you can tell me many things but I do think its better to let the engine (and the 400-500 degrees C manifold) cool down for 3 minutes with spirited driving like I described.
This isn't really on issue anymore since I keep a slow (low rpm) pace to last 2-3 miles) when going home.
QUOTE(Supersprynt @ Dec 4, 2007 - 9:56 PM) [snapback]619617[/snapback]
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3 minutes just seems like a waste of gas to me; especially with the water cooling.
3 minutes just seems like a waste of gas to me; especially with the water cooling.
It's blasphemy on this forum but anyway: I like to do a bit of high speed driving on the highway. Only when it's about empty or a few cars on it (I slow down to about 15mph above limit when passing other cars). When driving the car up to 5-7k rpm (doing about 100-112mph) the manifold itself is red glowing of the heat . Now you can tell me many things but I do think its better to let the engine (and the 400-500 degrees C manifold) cool down for 3 minutes with spirited driving like I described.
This isn't really on issue anymore since I keep a slow (low rpm) pace to last 2-3 miles) when going home.
JDM Powerplant installed, BPU coming very soon!