dustin15brown

#1

Ok everyone. I was installing the last Tein S-Tech lowering sring and I rounded off the sway bar bolt. The actual inner piece that requires an allen key/wrench is the rounded off part. What are my options for fixing this? Anyone else have this problem? I'm kind of at a standstill until I come up with something and I'm fresh outta ideas.

Any ideas? Any one?

This post has been edited by dustin15brown: Jun 19, 2006 - 1:14 PM

scothaniel

#2

Drill away...

This happened on my AllTrac, had to drill out the sway bar end links and buy new ones. I hate living in rust belt!

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ScottWest Michigan

Clipsetuner

#3

I just found out a sure fire way to get these off, except everyone I talked to told me not to waste my time to post it...

Drill it out!

Anyways Those suck, I have a brand new OEM toyota peice if your interested.

DTE

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I am a thief.do not buy anything from me.

C3L1CA

#4

I did the same thing to mine. You can drill them out like they are saying or just cut them off, either way you are looking at getting some new ones.

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-Brad95 GSX: Stock motor, fp3065, corn = 10.9 @ 14006 R6: Strappd and sprocketed = 11.0 @ 12701 a4: daily94 Celica: totaled - someday have another celica thats fast instead of looks cool

LewFX

#5

sometimes a 14mm deep socket with air impact will get it off.

Bitter

#6

grind it out or drill it. same thing happened to my prizm.


if you dont have one, get an electric impact gun. i beleive pepboys has a nice kit for $100 that includes a 400 or 500lb gun and a flip socket set.

then get a good set of metric impacts, sears has a set thats 12-27mm for about $60. trust me, you'll love it! you're not going to get those knuckle bolts off by hand as easily as you can with the impact. also while you're out get a 4 foot peice of thick wall gas/water pipe from the hardware depot, in whatever size fits over most of your wrenches and your breaker bar. also, get a breaker bar! ratchets dont like to be piped and they will break!

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2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E

LewFX

#7

electric doesnt have much power, i used a makita hi-end electric impact and it barely got the job done and the bolts were tight since i just worked on my suspension not to long ago.

Digndoug

#8

I had to use a saw-zaw to cut mine off. I just made new ones.

dustin15brown

#9

I have an impact gun... hooked up to our air compressor tank... Pretty nice and pretty powerful.... But how would that work? I mean the how to says that you must hold that nut in place while unscrewing with the allen wrench... So I don't see how an impact gun would any? For those of you who broke yours or cut them off... How much were new ones and where did you get them? Thanks in advance

Bitter

#10

>

QUOTE(LewFX @ Jun 19, 2006 - 5:23 PM) [snapback]446432[/snapback]

>
electric doesnt have much power, i used a makita hi-end electric impact and it barely got the job done and the bolts were tight since i just worked on my suspension not to long ago.

it depends on the electric, if the makita was cordless...well thats the problem.


i have a 240FT/lb corded impact and a 460FT/lb air impact. ive used them both equally and i enjoy the ease of the electric. a 500ft/lb electric is more than enough power for suspension. just remember not to ride the trigger too long or else you can burn out the motor.

>

QUOTE(dustin15brown @ Jun 19, 2006 - 7:27 PM) [snapback]446471[/snapback]

>
I have an impact gun... hooked up to our air compressor tank... Pretty nice and pretty powerful.... But how would that work? I mean the how to says that you must hold that nut in place while unscrewing with the allen wrench... So I don't see how an impact gun would any? For those of you who broke yours or cut them off... How much were new ones and where did you get them? Thanks in advance

get a wrench on the other side and wedge it agaist the car body or the ground. or use that pipe i mentioned....stick the box end over the bolt head and the open end down the pipe, then turn the bolt till the pipe is wedge against the ground. then use the impact.

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2000 Celica GTS 'slowest gts evar'1998 Mazda 626 FS-DE/CD4-E

LewFX

#11

i just used a air impact gun with a 14mm deep socket and fired away, came off without any other wrench or allen...also sprayed on some pb blaster...they are about $40 each at kragens, chucks or parts america or toyota has em for 50-60 each

This post has been edited by LewFX: Jun 19, 2006 - 8:19 PM

Clipsetuner

#12

I found this out from toyota perfomance first hand.

Impact Gun
14mm Deep Socket
Wire Brush Wheel For drill / Air grinder
PB blaster

Grind the crap outta the threads so there all shiney and new looking
Soak it all in PB Blaster
Hit it with the gun till it comes shooting off, Did it 9 times between my cars worked perfect everytime.

DTE

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I am a thief.do not buy anything from me.

Batman722

#13

OK here is the PROVEN "JDM Guy" way of getting it off....(Manny - presure2 - is a genius)

get some needle nose vise grips and grab BEHIND the sway bar bolt (behind the sway bar - there is just enough room to get it back there and hold it) and use a socket to get the nut off. Hold the vise grips firmly in place and PB Blast the nut and then turn. It will come off. No need to cut (believe me, I have cut the ones on my ST - took forever - and this way was used on my GT). No nee to mess with the stripped stuff - trust me. Also, I would reccomend replacing the link just incase you rip the boot.

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my st205 swapandour Beams swap

dustin15brown

#14

>

QUOTE(Batman722 @ Jun 19, 2006 - 11:47 PM) [snapback]446537[/snapback]

>
OK here is the PROVEN "JDM Guy" way of getting it off....(Manny - presure2 - is a genius)

get some needle nose vise grips and grab BEHIND the sway bar bolt (behind the sway bar - there is just enough room to get it back there and hold it) and use a socket to get the nut off. Hold the vise grips firmly in place and PB Blast the nut and then turn. It will come off. No need to cut (believe me, I have cut the ones on my ST - took forever - and this way was used on my GT). No nee to mess with the stripped stuff - trust me. Also, I would reccomend replacing the link just incase you rip the boot.

ok behind the bolt someone mentioned that a 14mm socket would fit over it... if it will then wouldn't this be easier or did i miss interpret them when they mentioned a 14mm socket? Thanks guys and if "JDM Guy" says it's peachy then i'll give it a go, although honestly i'm not sure what u mean bu "replacing the link just incase you rip the boot" could you clarify?

LewFX

#15

just buy 2 new ones and prepared to toss the old ones, might as well replace em if they old

Batman722

#16

sure, end links wear over time and there is a rubber boot over the ends of the links that is filled with fluid. If you mishandle or tear the boot, the fluid leaks out (and dries up) and the link does not swivel like it should causing a lack of responcive handling.

basicaly, if you rip the boot, replace.

just some quick info, you do not turn the bolt (with the allen wrench) EVER - that is how you strip it easily. You hold the allen wrench in the and with an open ended wrench you turn the nut (14mm). By the JDM Guy method you are still achieving the same thing, just not using the allen wrench (which does get stripped because of the parts being seized). The needle nose vise grips grabs the end bolt BEHIND the sway bar and hold it firmly (instead of usiong the allen wrench) and you have leverage. The just PB and use a ratchet & socket to get the nut off. End of lesson.

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my st205 swapandour Beams swap

LewFX

#17

na na na na na na na na na na na batmannnn, sorry had to do it

dustin15brown

#18

the "JDM Guy" way works 10x better.... I would suggest needle nose pliers w/ a vice grip option on them.... My dad had one of these and it worked amazingly well. Thanks Once I get my front passenger side bearings changed i'm goo to go

presure2

#19

>

QUOTE(dustin15brown @ Jun 21, 2006 - 7:05 PM) [snapback]447360[/snapback]

>
the "JDM Guy" way works 10x better.... I would suggest needle nose pliers w/ a vice grip option on them.... My dad had one of these and it worked amazingly well. Thanks Once I get my front passenger side bearings changed i'm goo to go

glad it worked out for ya!

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Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered

Batman722

#20

>

QUOTE(Batman722 @ Jun 19, 2006 - 11:47 PM) [snapback]446537[/snapback]

>
OK here is the PROVEN "JDM Guy" way of getting it off....(Manny - presure2 - is a genius)

just wanted to say it again

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my st205 swapandour Beams swap

dustin15brown

#21

>

QUOTE(Batman722 @ Jun 22, 2006 - 9:42 AM) [snapback]447573[/snapback]

>
>

QUOTE(Batman722 @ Jun 19, 2006 - 11:47 PM) [snapback]446537[/snapback]

>
OK here is the PROVEN "JDM Guy" way of getting it off....(Manny - presure2 - is a genius)

just wanted to say it again

x10,000 The JDM Guy worked again tonight for me as I was in a pinch and Manny helped me out affter I over looked the obvious

Tech9ine

#22

I'm a suckeR! I just cut my sway bar end links in half and have new ones on there way. Should be in monday, $50 CND for both sides. Kind of wish i had read this first though, i just did it thursday.

This post has been edited by Tech9ine: Jun 24, 2006 - 3:54 PM

toyotacrazy

#23

Also you can use an impact gun and 14mm socket. Lube up the threads and run the nut out a little. Then run it in until its snug. Then run it out. Repeat until the nut works its way off. It may take 5 minutes or so. But its worked for me a hundred times. Good luck!

Rayme

#24

I lost my temper, my metal saw took care of it lol. (bleh..)

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-Rémy02SiR, 08250R