any ideas? ive been talking to lagos and weve gone over so much stuff, but if anyone else has any ideas let me know.

so far weve checked most stuff up to listening to the injectors to see if they fire, i tried to do this but couldnt because the downpipe is LOUD.
ive checked and rechecked almost every hose and connection

This post has been edited by brianforster: Apr 14, 2006 - 6:38 PM

does it have to be reved to stay running? and does it sputter while you hold it just to keep it running. if so i bet its a loose connection on the AFM there are 4 wires i think and i had one that the prong came out of the harness and my car wouldnt run at all. it sounded like a rotory motor being held at 10k ready to launch. then i connected the wire and glued it back in the harness and it was fine. check the afm anf all connections going in. it could be alot of thngs but this is one that i have experience with.

yes it has to be revved to stay running, im at school now, basically im gonna compile a list of troubleshooting stuff to take care of next time i go home.

So it will run just fine with the throttle held open, right? Make sure that the Idle Air Control valve is plugged in, and also make sure that the air line going to it is hooked up. There are two air lines going to the intake pipe that have to be connected. Also run the ECU trouble codes.

-Doc

I agree sounds like a vacuum leak.

how do i run ecu trouble codes?

all vacuum lines coming from intake to the IAC and the PCV system are connected and secure

edit: what do you mean by IAC plugged in? it goes to the throttle body if i remember correctly, with just a series of hoses/hard lines coming from the intake and going to it.

This post has been edited by brianforster: Apr 3, 2006 - 4:19 PM

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there is also a harness plug that goes to it. its electronic.

Take some good pics of the engine bay and post them up, we may be able to pick something out.

http://www.celicatech.com/imagearchive/bgb...rac/FI/FI21.htm

check that link for running the codes.

-Doc

>


lol, trust me... you dont want to see them ..

in all fairness lagos, the pics you saw werent of the near finished product, its a lot less ghetto now, but still ever so ghetto

this is why i posted that WTB thread in the f/s forum, if one of you swappers could come down for a day and help me un ghetto it id finally be one of you

i ran codes today and got code 35 and 51, i fixed the 35, that was bad splicing

now i tested the TPS as in the celica bgb, except i did not have a way to apply vacuum to throttle opener (quoted from bgb)

and i did not have a feeler tool to measure the 2 measurements they want you to do and test the ohms there

however lagos told me to go ahead and test it without vacuum or the gap, and everything came out normal

now either i did it wrong or something else is causing me to throw a code 51 and not idle, but it seems as if it is definitly the throttle position sensor because of two things:

the code 51 (duh)

and today when i was holding the rpm to get a vacuum reading it jumped up to like 3 grand and stayed there, this happened as my foot stayed on the same position on the acellerator

i have my TPS from the 7afe which according to autozone is the same, so do you think i should just change it even though i got correct ohm readings?

This problem is resolved now, right?

-Doc

i still get a code 51, but my car idles, the nipple on the back of the intake manifold wasnt capped..