i brought down my tranny today b/c my clutch was gone, and synchos are mess up. while i was doin it i took some pics, maybe they can help someone down the road. best advice do it with a buddy i spent maybe 6-7 hours on it today and still not finish, with a buddy im sure it would have been less. this weekend will be the interesting thing, the 3rd gear synchro has to be replaced. it was only 29.99 from the dealer but im not gonna pay 400 for someone to put it in. that is all of what i left to do b4 i can put the tranny back on. ill take some more pic while i work on that too.
first i jacked up the car and took the axel off( 45 minutes)


took everything that was in the way off and pulled down the tranny(1.5 hour)


took the old clutch and flywheel off(20 minutes)


had the flywheel turn and put it back on(40 miles and 20 minutes puttin on.)


new clutch set, putting it on ( 1 hour)



This post has been edited by lake1069: Feb 23, 2006 - 12:30 PM

Dude, nice work, but where are your jack stands?? If one of those jacks fails, that car is going down. (Or did I miss the jack stands in the pics?)

i had two jack stands on the chassis of the car u can kinda see them on the first pic. humm....if i had a lift this would be soo much easier.

nice job it is great to see people doing things themselves.

I will be doing mine in a few weeks too.

agh, i need a new clutch too but it's soooooooo much work! too lazy!

glad ur not fat and lazy in front of the computer like the rest of us! hehe

That transmission is a royal pain in the a$$ to get it back up in there!

why is the flywheel not stepped?
its supposed to have a raised surface that the clutch meets up against..
if its not stepped anymore, id be worried about it working properly.

>

I was thinking the same think when I saw that pic, it doesn't look like the machine shop did it right. Is it stepped and we just can't tell from here?

-Doc

stepped means turned right? like when u turn a rotor? i had it done, the only thing that has me thinking is those dull spots on the fly wheel, ive never seen those b4. friday i get the synchro in, i have no clue what it looks like or where in the tranny it goes. trial and error along with comparison will be my way of gettin it on there.
-oscar

Man, someone should write a writeup on this. Just a how-to lower the tranny and replace or upgrade the clutch/flywheel.

>
what we mean by stepped is that the flywheel should have a raised surface on it that the clutch disk meets up to.
i "believe" the step is .20 or somthing like that, i remember my machineshop guy telling me that..

horrible news, i got the synchro today as well as a diagram from toyota. let me say wow i was in shock. its nothing like what i pictured. i began taking the tranny apart, after having 50 pieces layin around and not even halfway in the the synchro i called it quits. after this mess i realized why they charge 400 bucks in labor. this aftertoon noon i went to the junkward and got me a tranny with 56k for 450. so ill be puttin it on this weekend. ill scan the diagram so u guys can see what i was dealing with.

Damn wth?

here is the diagram, these are all the gears, the 3rd gear in the one in the middle where it says 3rd, that was $29. to get to all those little parts have to be taken off, as u can see there are lots of parts here but this is only half on the entire picture u see when u open it.


new tranny

I'm about to put my tranny in. It sucked getting it out so getting it back in will prove to be quite gay im guessing. Writeup anyone?

i will try my best to come up with one

she back running!!!!!!!!and tranny change "how to" coming up with pics, just need a few days.

good job man. i look forward to reading the how to, since i never did it with the engine int the car.

was the floor jack and wood, enought to support the whole motor? since 3 of the motor mounts are connected to the tranny, id be scared to take the tranny out without having an engine lift there to support the rest of the motor.

---------how to----------

Before anything there a couple of thing that you must think about and think about. Im not a mechanic, my father is and ive learned from him almost everything from him. ive changed 3 transmissions including this recent one on the celi, it could take anywhere 1-2 days worth of work but you can save about 700 bucks. ***keep in mind working with this can be dangerous, the best way is to do it with a lift but most of us dont have one so things are done basically laying down on the floor which can mean something falling on you for example the tranny.***i will try and go back and be as detailed as possible with some pics of everything.

where did you order your tranny from?

he got it from the junkyard with 56k miles on it.

****still adding changes and pics updated 2/27/06****
howto
once u are 120% sure that you clutch or tranny need to be replaced find the parts that u need, whether its a whole tranny or a clutch. I First thing take a picture or a mental picture of where everything goes especially wire connection, once you got this begin by to remove everything that blocks your view of the transmission. and by this i mean

shifter cable
slave master cylinder
battery
air intake
the black box left of the battery
battery starter

**some other little things, im taking pics of everythings!!!**


use preassure2's advice >



then something like this



jack up the car, i placed two jack stands on the chassis of the car along with two floor jacks on the engine(will put up pic soon). next thing to do is take out both axels, the right one is pretty easy to take off and left one tends to give trouble because of some safety preasure thing that holds it so in since only the other side has the safety bolts.
ill begin with the right one, take the tire off and remove the axel nut but make sure you remove the safety pin before you do this. This next part is taking off the breaks, **you dont have to do it** but i just do it. to take the brakes off there are two bolts on the back of the rotor i believe they are 17mm. this will release the whole caliper. it is not a good idea to let the caliper hanging from the brake hose since the caliper weighs about 40 pounds so you can use a bungie cord to tie it up or let it rest on something or dont take it off at all.
brake bolts



the two bolts that hold the strut and hub assembly together have to taken off these are 19mm i think.
here is the pic.

struts bolts


after this is done you should be able to pop out the axel from the hub assembly. The axel will not come out right now, there are two bolts that are part of a safety lock to prevent the axel from ever coming out, these are located at the midpoint of the axel, (pic is coming soon) once these have been taken off that axel can be pulled out(pic). for the other side the process is the same. the only difference is that they're is no safety bolt. this can be a pain to get out. here is a old post that can help
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=19611&hl=

now that both axels are out, the tranny needs to come down.

SECURING THE ENGINE

the front, back and passenger mounts will need to come off before the tranny comes down. but u cant do this until the engine is secured. im going to tell what i did **not a very safest way**and the hanyes way which is much safer. I raised the car and let it rest on the chassis on two stands(one on each side). i let the engine rest on a floor jack with a piece of wood to provide a surface for it to rest on, than another floor jack with wood right where the tranny meets the engine.



HANYES way

.........*........

This post has been edited by lake1069: Feb 27, 2006 - 12:39 PM

lake, you need to include ALOT more detail than that.
all the little details that you skipped are all the important ones.
also. the way you dissasembeld your suspension to remove your axels is VERY odd, to say the least.
you do not need to remove the carrier from the strut to get your axles out.
you also do not need to remove your brakes at all.
all you need to do is remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt from the ball joint and pop it apart, once you have the axle nut off. then you just pop the axle out.
its also best to just get a box of the small ziplock bags and put all your nuts and bolts you remove into labled bags, so that way, you know where everything goes when you go to reinstall them
another good tip is to take a peice of cardboard, draw a circle on it.
when you remove the bolts that connect the tranny to the block, you can push the bolts thru the cardboard in the corresponding spot on the circle so that you dont forget which bolt came from where. there are a few diffrent sizes and lengths, and they go in from both sides of the tranny.
ect ect...

This has been an interesting post so far. I also have a clutch to put in and deciding should I pay someone 300 to do it, or conquer it myself. I have a time restraint also, I work alot of hours 7 days straight lately.
If I do, I will add to the write up so it can become a stickie in the future. Lagos also put up a good video
on a clutch installment that people should see.

mad, 300$ i wouldnt cosider too bad of a price for the labor to do it.
i know toyota gets over 600$ in labor alone for a clutch change.
that said,
if you have basic mechanical ability, and basic tools, (having a engine hoist REALLY helps when trying to support the motor) it can be done without TOO much hassle.

>
I got quoted 600 total.00 for a cheap clutch, and 300 for the labor. I got the clutch seperately, so I might just pay the 300. Tired of getting dirty!

>

good tip, buddy!

id like to hear some good tips on how to support the motor without an engine lift. one motor mount, and a floor jack with some wood on it, sounds very unsafe to me, and probably a major pain to align the drivers side mount.

i found a good video that compliments this HowTo very well, one the specifics of doing the clutch job.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=34164


madmods, for 300bucks i would just pay to do it. its a big job and sometimes not worth the hassle if you dont have your own garage or the proper tools to get it done.

Never mess with a tranny, you guys should have seen the assembly diagrams first, freak out, panic, then give it a shot.

>
the hanyes says to use a 4X4 across the strut towers with chains..we thought about it when we did my cousins rear main, but it was easier to just use the engine hoist

im going back to break everything down into more details with more detailed pics, as far as holding on to the engine i just use two floor jacks, then 2 towers i guess they're called to hold on to the car. ive done it this way with a 93 mx-3, 97 eclipse, and celica. i am by no means saying this is the safe way to go, this is just the only way i that i know how to do it w/o a lift. if someone would like to help me with this part please do.