I'm almost done gathering everything for the turbo setup. I have a question tho. I'm going with either the SAFC-2 or the E-manage. I had no idea those things where like 200+. but yeah. I'm probably going with the Apexi cuz it has a display and the e-manage just seems to come with a CD and I'd rather tune real time than have to go to my pc. I'm guessing that's how e-manage works. but yeah. once my injectors and fuel pump and all that crap are in my car, how do i know to tune the SAFC so my car runs right? is that in the instructions or is it something i have to know?

you have to get on a dyno and see what your air to fuel ratio looks like. then try to adjust it where it needs it. the emanage is a lot better then the safc, btw .

so it wont be drivable until i tune it properly?... like, would i have to tow it to the dyno or something? i dont want my car to blow up.

u can drive it but it will be really lean at points

best thing to do if your going to get a safc is to also get some type of wide, NOT narrow, band o2 sensor. I have an aem uego in mine and it allows to me to tell what my a/f is and with the safc add or take out fuel depending.

ok, so as long as i have a wideband o2 sensor, i wont really have to go to the dyno, right?

not really. if your worried about costs, you can usually pick up an safc ver. 1 for about $100, and it works just fine.

im not worried about costs... i mean, i am, im not rich. lol. but im willing to buy the safc-2 just cuz its newer, more updated. whatever. its the new sh!t. lol. but im going to need the wideband o2 sensor to see what kinda a/f ratios im getting so i can tune with the safc-2. correct? so with the wideband, i can tune the safc 2 without needing the dyno, right? im probably going with the lm-1. any comments, suggestions? thanks.

>


the best thing to do is to get a wideband sensor AND go to a dyno . this is not the type of thing you want to cheap out on.

maybe even try finding a dyno shop that knows how to tune an emanage so they can help you if you dont know what you are doing... but you should do more homework before you start buying stuff, so that you will know what the wideband or dyno is telling you about your car.

thats my problem. where do i learn about that. im willing to read and learn. where do i look? i mean, ive heard search search. i search but dont find exactly what im looking for. its hard when you dont know everything about cars and turbo and dont know where to look.

search on yahoo for wideband tuning. read up on egts and how that works as well. as far as the wideband tho, just learn wut afr's are ideal..too lean..to rich. etc.

>
actually, you really SHOULD get on a dyno, regardless if you have a WB or not.
most good dynos will have at the minimum a tailpipe sniffer to log your A/F ratio.
street-tuning is NOT an effective way to tune your car.

best thing i can suggest is to get an e-manage and street tune a/f with a wideband, then adijust ign till your knock levels start to see knock, i wouldnt let it get anything over 15 or so.

this would save money on dyno time.

>well manny, im gangsta like that! the streets. lol. jk.

honestly "street tunning" isn't really doing you much

you NEED to go to a dyno so that you have PROFESSIONALS
who actually KNOW what they are looking at instead of having random people on the internet say look for the # 15 and try and get that twist a knobby thing and you'll be good....

at a dyno you can get the proper tuning done with the aid of machines and technology that you don't have on the street and with the aid of technicians who know what they are doing....

"street tunning" you might as well add your name to the list of blown turbos of the 7afte crowd...

>

hahahahaha,

obvisouly you know nothing about tuning.

when i tuned my car i tuned a/f and ign on the steet myself with a wideband (zeitronix), apex-i pfc, a datalogit and my laptop.

i would just go and wind out 3rd gear on the highway and log into what a/fs i was getting then compensate the load into those cells, either by leaning out every 200rpm bank or by adding more fuel. and by putting in correction factors i maintained a 13.2a/f accross the board at WOT.

then for IGN i would advance my ign until i was seeing knock numbers. 60 is dangerous to your motor and is clearly audiable, 15 is not audible at all and no risk to your motor.

i then went to the dyno and tuned my high and low cam for the RPMs and set vvt and vvtli to the correct values to make horsepower, this was the only reason i needed a dyno. i ended up with 183whp n/a.

if tuning your car is considered only to the pro, then consider me and pro. ill upload my tunning maps for all load levels not just WOT like people here with doing with their piggy backs.

so go home and tune your "NAWZ".

learn to tune and dont knock others until you know what your talking about.

This post has been edited by recneps: Dec 22, 2005 - 2:21 PM

ya know..i knew that once you made up your mind on what you were gonna do, you would go ape sh*t and ask a million questions. RESEARCH. use teh internet..google, yahoo, etc. it's annoying seeing all of your threads started about stuff that can easily be found by doing some research.

</rant>

-dstrb

>

an a/f ratio of 15? I am not all that knowledgable about the 7afte but that would blow a 3sgte. The ideal safe a/f ratio for the 3sgte is in the 11's.

Most of your tuning can be done on a street if you have a way to monitor a/f ratios and timing. However, I personally do not believe that its something someone should do by himself the first time. Its fairly complicated and the ramifications of a bad tune are very expensive. Most good shops can tune a safc on a dyno in less than an hour. Its really not that expensive to have it done by someone who knows what he is doing.

>**** you. if its annoying then dont click on my threads.

>


obviously your rather immature....and defenitly not a professional....but this is not of the discussion

Tunning for the 1st time is not sumthing you learn just on the street.....i never said you can't street tune
but go ask ANY professional tunner..wat will they tell you...
they would say get on a dyno get with a professional and learn

and you can't just throw out numbers to a guy about tunning...each setup is different, you don't know the specifics of his setup and these numbers will change and thus could damage his motor or he could be fine but for a first time situation you should always BE SMART go to someone who knows what they are doing and does it for a living and have it done....this is smart, safe and a way to insure that your setup will run fine

and btw, nobody cares about what you've done try and stick to topic and be helpful to the brother he's trying to learn

This post has been edited by playr158: Dec 22, 2005 - 3:14 PM

>

a/f ratio of 15 is just above stoich (14.7), not harmfull at all. My stock 3SGTE ran between 11.8 at WOT and 19 at idle, and the 3S's run very rich. Best fuel economy is usually between 16 and 18 for cruising . 12's are best for making power under full boost.

Widebands are the best for tuning, but you can use a standard 2 wire (0 to 1 volt) a/f meter with the stock sensor to get you going.

your new to the whole 7afte /turbo world go to the dyno and have them tune it ask questions and learn .Why spend all that money on a set up just to go and F it up on a guess tuning on a motor you know nothing about GO TO THE DYNO PERIOD

This post has been edited by nik: Dec 22, 2005 - 4:31 PM

i got a little carried away, but the point is that if you want to DIY your perfectly safe to as long as you reasearch to figure out what your doing fisrt.

also i never mentioned anything about a 15:1 a/f thats really lean.

11: - 12:1 is good for making power not not stressing your motor for boost.

13:1 - 13.5 to one is good for power n/a.

idle and partail throttle will usually run on the lean side.

anything upwards of 15:1 is damaging.

>

Idle and cruising are closed loop (no boost). If you pop a motor, its most likely going to be under a boost event. I stick by my statement that you should tune for mid to high 11's under boost. That will give you some comfort level.

>

true that lol.. i still have to get on a dyno. luckly i found one in so cal called S.T. Motorsports. I called and it seems they are familar with safc systems and stand alone stuff.

>

Mid 11's are safe, but they'll steal power from the motor. Low 11's are good for creating smoke clouds. 10's will help paint the dyno room walls with unburnt fuel and choke the motor out at 3500 rpms ( had a bad raising rate fuel regulator ).

I'll stick with 12's

>


i agree

dont know how to quote, but about my first post, i worded wrong sorry..meant not really you still need to go to the dyno

This post has been edited by ummmx2: Dec 23, 2005 - 1:51 AM

>

I speak form experience when i say that trying to street tune it on the freeway and making sure theres boost going into the motor is a pain in the butt and dangerous.

This post has been edited by urbandork: Dec 23, 2005 - 2:50 AM