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This post has been edited by erics1one: Sep 22, 2009 - 11:15 AM
This post has been edited by erics1one: Sep 22, 2009 - 11:15 AM
... - 6G Celicas Forums
unplug it untill you get it tuned of course
The most important lesson I learned from Karate-Dô Kyôshan–“You can not be what you do not believe you are”
maby your stock o2 sensor went bad? this is one of those times when autometer air to fuel gauges come in handy (not to tell you ritch or lean, just to tell u the sensor is working right).
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
Well I've already replaced the primary O2, but I'll pull the codes again.
Thing is...I've heard of some people making adjustments to their AFR on the fly. Wasn't sure if a few % here and there would harm anything. Obviously unplugging it would be the easy way out.
Thing is...I've heard of some people making adjustments to their AFR on the fly. Wasn't sure if a few % here and there would harm anything. Obviously unplugging it would be the easy way out.
Experimenting with air fuel ratios is how you blow up your engine.
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Well I unplugged it, reset ECU, and still same problem. It'll have a weak idle, and when I push the accelerater the RPMs will drop, before beginning to rise. Sounds like a bad vac leak when accelerating, but I've checked every line 10 times. When I let off the accel. the BOV flutters and RPMs dip down to almost 0.
Gonna see if new plugs, cap, and rotor will do it. NGK wires should still be good, but I'll test em.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 24, 2005 - 2:48 PM
Gonna see if new plugs, cap, and rotor will do it. NGK wires should still be good, but I'll test em.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 24, 2005 - 2:48 PM
-erics1one+Jan 24, 2005 - 7:45 PM
Good plan - I had a very similar problem to this on my 4th Gen Celica... Replaced my plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor and it ran better than ever.
QUOTE(erics1one @ Jan 24, 2005 - 7:45 PM)
Well I unplugged it, reset ECU, and still same problem. It'll have a weak idle, and when I push the accelerater the RPMs will drop, before beginning to rise. Sounds like a bad vac leak when accelerating, but I've checked every line 10 times. When I let off the accel. the BOV flutters and RPMs dip down to almost 0.
Gonna see if new plugs, cap, and rotor will do it. NGK wires should still be good, but I'll test em.
[right][snapback]237701[/snapback][/right]
Gonna see if new plugs, cap, and rotor will do it. NGK wires should still be good, but I'll test em.
[right][snapback]237701[/snapback][/right]
Good plan - I had a very similar problem to this on my 4th Gen Celica... Replaced my plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor and it ran better than ever.
Well new plugs, rotor, and cap...and no difference. Actually died when dropping down to low rpms after a quick rev. Theres just absolutely no power. It does let out a quick "squeak" sometimes, right before the rev. Don't know if that could be anything. >
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Plugs were quite black though.
Any ideas on what it could be?
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 26, 2005 - 1:57 AM
> Plugs were quite black though.
Any ideas on what it could be?
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 26, 2005 - 1:57 AM
did you checke'd your ignition? i thing that you need to get your self an ecu power-fc , motec or even an e-manage and go to a dyno and tune your car the right way, to have your Plugs black propaply meens that your air fuel ratio is not good and need's tuning..... do you have any dificulty startibg your car some times?
Dyno tune it. Now you are like a blind man in a labirynt. You dont know what ya doing and its like operating angina through the but... >
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Let the people who know they $hit do the job, or you want to blow your 5S?
>Let the people who know they $hit do the job, or you want to blow your 5S?
Ex celica owner - just a guy from other side of the pond...Full custom Projects from restoration to performance builds<<<<<< DCw / JDMart >>>>>>>
or mayby your engines valve cover has cracket and loosing boost and compression...... is your boost the same as always? did you did any compression tests? mayby your pistons rings are f#*#......!
I know I've been running rich. Its never had a problem starting.
Well I can understand the need for a dyno tune to run at maximum efficiency, but why would it all the sudden get this huge bog down after no changes at all. The exhaust sounds like I'm a beefed up truck. Its been running good for about 6 months, and since I've never seen a hint of black smoke, I didn't think I was running rich enough to harm anything.
It definitely sounds like something internal finally gave way.
Guess I'll go NA and try to get my warranty to cover a swap.
edit: Changed title from "HKS S-AFR, unplug or experiment" to "Barely stayin alive" since I'm not really asking about the AFR anymore. Even though this problem was going on before I unplugged it, I'll connect it back up, reset the ECU and see if I get anything different.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 26, 2005 - 10:55 AM
Well I can understand the need for a dyno tune to run at maximum efficiency, but why would it all the sudden get this huge bog down after no changes at all. The exhaust sounds like I'm a beefed up truck. Its been running good for about 6 months, and since I've never seen a hint of black smoke, I didn't think I was running rich enough to harm anything.
It definitely sounds like something internal finally gave way.
Guess I'll go NA and try to get my warranty to cover a swap.
edit: Changed title from "HKS S-AFR, unplug or experiment" to "Barely stayin alive" since I'm not really asking about the AFR anymore. Even though this problem was going on before I unplugged it, I'll connect it back up, reset the ECU and see if I get anything different.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 26, 2005 - 10:55 AM
You are way to rich at idle. Lean it out a bit and go easy on the boost until you can get to someone to tune it.
if u go NA ill trade u stock injectors and stock fuel pump just for ur pump?
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Like couple people said, you should try tuning your car.. It sounds like you are running way too rich for the car to handle or the spark plugs to burn off all that fuel that's coming in due to more air that's being pushed into the engine.. You might want to either get it tuned first, then fix the problems, or go into stock form, and fix the problem.. Either way, you'll have to tune it for more air that's coming in... Good luck.
I know, I've said it many times before that I understand tuning my car would help it run best.
But in the condition its in right now, I highly doubt its a tuning issue. Even before when the tuning was off, it still ran like a champ, at little rich...but still ran fine.
Right now, it is no where close to running 'okay'. There is something else going on.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 26, 2005 - 2:13 PM
But in the condition its in right now, I highly doubt its a tuning issue. Even before when the tuning was off, it still ran like a champ, at little rich...but still ran fine.
Right now, it is no where close to running 'okay'. There is something else going on.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 26, 2005 - 2:13 PM
Did you check the fuel filter? Or anything like that?
what vac readings are you getting at idle? the rpms droping kind of sounds like the issues i had with boost leak.
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
sounds like your catalytic converter is pluged, and if it was running rich for a long time that would do it. if uyou can disconnect the exhaust before the cat and see how it runs.
Fuel filter recently replaced. About 300 miles on new one.
Vac was at around 14psi when idleing rough. Does sound like a vac or boost leak, but I've checked all lines, and made sure all the bolts were torqued.
I have no CAT.
Last night I plugged my HKS AFR back in, and reset the ECU. It seems this has made it more 'driveable' but still seeing noticeable resistance at 1400-1900 rpms. At this point, I can see that tuning this smaller barrier might fix the problem. The complete bog down, and stalling attempts seems to be gone, but will be able to test drive her tonight.
After plugging the AFR back in, idle vac sat around 18-19psi and rpms were a lot stronger. Didn't have time to get her out on the road though.
Appreciate the input, I'll update when I get more info.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 27, 2005 - 11:56 AM
Vac was at around 14psi when idleing rough. Does sound like a vac or boost leak, but I've checked all lines, and made sure all the bolts were torqued.
I have no CAT.
Last night I plugged my HKS AFR back in, and reset the ECU. It seems this has made it more 'driveable' but still seeing noticeable resistance at 1400-1900 rpms. At this point, I can see that tuning this smaller barrier might fix the problem. The complete bog down, and stalling attempts seems to be gone, but will be able to test drive her tonight.
After plugging the AFR back in, idle vac sat around 18-19psi and rpms were a lot stronger. Didn't have time to get her out on the road though.
Appreciate the input, I'll update when I get more info.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 27, 2005 - 11:56 AM
what is your boost like? does it feel any different in boost and/or boost response? any fluxuations or seem dull at all?
Believer, you'll leave her, in leaving them allNo but I don't buy itLike anything you do, as anyone you areCause I'm...Ten Speed, of God's Blood & Burial
14 vac seems really low, at least it would be for a 3sgte. check your intercooler piping.
anyone know what the vac readings should be on a 5sfe?
anyone know what the vac readings should be on a 5sfe?
15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
Should be between ~18-21. As I said though, it was at 14psi when I unplugged the AFR.
Now that its back in, I'm idling at 18-19psi. But the rpm still has a little fluctuation.
With the AFR plugged in, it seems the small barriers at low rpms could be fixed with tuning. When it wasn't plugged in, tuning wouldn't change a thing.
I'm starting to feel some shaft play in the recently swapped JDM Turbo. I'm pretty sure my feed line is small enough to not force oil into the turbo, so I'm guessing my return line needs to have a smaller degree bend, or less restrictive (even though its a pretty clear shot down to the oil pan).
I'm sure the slowly deteriorating seals on the turbo isn't helping anything, but shes still boosting quite nice with a hard pull.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 28, 2005 - 1:26 AM
Now that its back in, I'm idling at 18-19psi. But the rpm still has a little fluctuation.
With the AFR plugged in, it seems the small barriers at low rpms could be fixed with tuning. When it wasn't plugged in, tuning wouldn't change a thing.
I'm starting to feel some shaft play in the recently swapped JDM Turbo. I'm pretty sure my feed line is small enough to not force oil into the turbo, so I'm guessing my return line needs to have a smaller degree bend, or less restrictive (even though its a pretty clear shot down to the oil pan).
I'm sure the slowly deteriorating seals on the turbo isn't helping anything, but shes still boosting quite nice with a hard pull.
This post has been edited by erics1one: Jan 28, 2005 - 1:26 AM
eric, id do a compression test, just to be on the safe side, before you do anything else.
have you checked all your small vac lines around the engine bay to make sure none have popped off of , or are leaking?
as far as your oil feed & return lines.
your feed should be a -3an size line, no bigger.
the return should be a -12an size line, and it is very important to keep it as straight a path to the pan as possible, with no sharp bends, and as "vertical" as possible, to promote drainage.
what are you using for injectors? (just curious)
HTH
manny
have you checked all your small vac lines around the engine bay to make sure none have popped off of , or are leaking?
as far as your oil feed & return lines.
your feed should be a -3an size line, no bigger.
the return should be a -12an size line, and it is very important to keep it as straight a path to the pan as possible, with no sharp bends, and as "vertical" as possible, to promote drainage.
what are you using for injectors? (just curious)
HTH
manny
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered
Planning to compression test it soon. Did a while ago (maybe 3 or 4 months) and results were in range.
All Vac Lines are snug, my nose is in that bay for a least a few hours a everyday. I've checked them all many times.
Yeah I know the hose sizes that I need, but the kit wasn't installed by me, so not sure if they are those exact sizes. I'll be looking into that soon, and replacing if necessary.
Injectors are MKIVs.
All Vac Lines are snug, my nose is in that bay for a least a few hours a everyday. I've checked them all many times.
Yeah I know the hose sizes that I need, but the kit wasn't installed by me, so not sure if they are those exact sizes. I'll be looking into that soon, and replacing if necessary.
Injectors are MKIVs.
Doing this again, with the S-AFR plugged in.
It feels like ignition...but not sure, so I'm bringing it to the shop.
...if I make it
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It feels like ignition...but not sure, so I'm bringing it to the shop.
...if I make it
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